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| Removing a V-6 Engine - By The Numbers (Page 3/22) |
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Isurus
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JAN 02, 01:11 PM
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I am new to the forum but have been reading it for sometime now. This has to be one of the most informative and well documented articles I've read yet! Thank you...
BTW I will definately be reviewing this shortly when I do my swap!
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skitime
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JAN 02, 01:30 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Toddster:
If you don't need to move your engine from one car to another or you have just one project you are doing then Skitime's method is very doable. If you tend to have more than one car however, it will limit your mobility. Just keep that in mind when making a choice. |
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Not sure what the difference is??? I have two skids ready to go. This engine was being dropped for the 3800SC engine off camera on another skid. I like the skid because they are free and I don't have to build them and the fridge rollers are very cheap . As long as the skids are on the concrete the hard roller wheels slid easily in any direction. I also have found I can roll the car around easily with the floor jack in any direction which helps a lot in alligning things or just moving the car away from the workbench.[This message has been edited by skitime (edited 01-02-2008).]
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JazzMan
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JAN 02, 01:34 PM
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On the '88 a trick is to remove one of the bolts holding the longitudinal link to the cradle at the front, this allows the strut to easily lean outwards and clear the rear chassis frame horns as the car is lifted off the cradle. Otherwise, due to the sharp angle that the struts are tilted inwards the upper strut caps will drag hard against the inner well sheet metal and scar it all up.
Also, if removing the motor with the intent of putting it back together, you can unbolt the brake calipers from the cradle and leave them hung with wire from the chassis, that way you don't have to bleed anything upon reassembly and not worry about stripping a bleeder screw.
On cars with the aero nose you'll probably need to put blocking under the front wheels to get the nose high enough that the bumper cover doesn't hit the ground while lifting the rear.
Sidepost battery terminal screws are 5/16", at least that's what's marked on my Snap On sidepost battery wrench.
On the '84s and I believe the '85s the main power fusible links to the car's power system are attached to the starter, instead of to the terminal block adjacent to C500 as in the later models.
On step 10 you show the picture of the connector behind the ALDL but don't call out for it to be disconnected. I think it's the C-2 hundred something.
In step 12, the sensor is called the IAT, or Intake Air Temperature sensor.
BTW, it's not necessary to remove the decklid to do this. I prefer not to because working alone the decklid is hard to handle and easy to damage while maneuvering it on and off the car.
Note: C-500 is a split connector. One half has the body wiring in it and half has the engine wiring. The small screw holds one half of the connector in place and that half has ears that hold the other half in place. Split the connector to separate the engine from the body harnesses.
The 5-speed transmission shown is a Getrag, the Isuzu 5-speed cables are routed similarly to the 4-speed transmissions. Though the Isuzu was only used on the L4 cars it's not that unusual to see one behind a V6 because of an engine or tranny swap.
Step 23: Technically the throttle body is only a TB, as a TBI has in injector in it. 
Also, you probably want to break loose the main axle nut on each side before starting because once everything's apart it's a major PITA to get it loose.
It is not a good idea to crimp a brake line shut, especially old lines like ours, as it may damage the liner and crack the outer shell.
On the emergency brake cable, it's a good idea to soak everything down with PB Blaster a day or two before beginning.
That's all I noticed on the first run through aside from spelling and grammer which I'm not worried about.
Good writeup!
JazzMan
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Toddster
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JAN 02, 01:36 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by skitime:
Not sure what the difference is???
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Well, in my case, I often have to move stuff from one part of my yard to another, over door threasholds, across uneven or cracked pavement, even across the lawn on occassion (don't tell the Mrs.) 
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skitime
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JAN 02, 01:54 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Toddster:
Well, in my case, I often have to move stuff from one part of my yard to another, over door threasholds, across uneven or cracked pavement, even across the lawn on occassion (don't tell the Mrs.) |
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You definitey would need bigger wheels for that.
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Toddster
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JAN 02, 02:04 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by JazzMan:
On the '88 a trick is to remove one of the bolts holding the longitudinal link to the cradle at the front, this allows the strut to easily lean outwards and clear the rear chassis frame horns as the car is lifted off the cradle. Otherwise, due to the sharp angle that the struts are tilted inwards the upper strut caps will drag hard against the inner well sheet metal and scar it all up.
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True, this is a good thing to note for those with buddies. If you have a couple of guys who can pull on the struts while raising the cradle this helps. If, as in this thread, you are a one man show, you can wrap the top of the strut with an old shop towel and some duct tape to keep from scratching things up.
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Also, if removing the motor with the intent of putting it back together, you can unbolt the brake calipers from the cradle and leave them hung with wire from the chassis, that way you don't have to bleed anything upon reassembly and not worry about stripping a bleeder screw.
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I'll post some pics and add this alternative
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On cars with the aero nose you'll probably need to put blocking under the front wheels to get the nose high enough that the bumper cover doesn't hit the ground while lifting the rear.
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True. But if you are short of additional blocking or ramps I'll add one other idea I have used...an old bath mat. Just slip the bath mat under the nose and it won't get scratched-up.
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Sidepost battery terminal screws are 5/16", at least that's what's marked on my Snap On sidepost battery wrench.
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I use a terminal post remover myself. It has a rubber handle grip and I highly recommend it to anyone working on electrical systems. I'll post a pic.
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On the '84s and I believe the '85s the main power fusible links to the car's power system are attached to the starter, instead of to the terminal block adjacent to C500 as in the later models.
[/QUOTE
I'm going to do another thread like this next week when I pull the engine out of my parts Indy. The '84 was so different that it really needs it's own procedural thread.
[QUOTE]
On step 10 you show the picture of the connector behind the ALDL but don't call out for it to be disconnected. I think it's the C-2 hundred something.
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I actually call it the ECI but good point. I'll try to put in the User Manual Terms to make things more clear to people following along with the manual.
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In step 12, the sensor is called the IAT, or Intake Air Temperature sensor.
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Check, I'll edit that for clarity too.
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BTW, it's not necessary to remove the decklid to do this. I prefer not to because working alone the decklid is hard to handle and easy to damage while maneuvering it on and off the car.
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If you are working outside you are absolutely correct. If you are doing this inside your garage, your ceiling height will mandate that you remove the decklid. But for the sake of removing 4 bolts I find the added light, and access to the front side of the engine worth the trouble in either event.
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Note: C-500 is a split connector. One half has the body wiring in it and half has the engine wiring. The small screw holds one half of the connector in place and that half has ears that hold the other half in place. Split the connector to separate the engine from the body harnesses.
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Another excellent point. I'll add that too.
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The 5-speed transmission shown is a Getrag, the Isuzu 5-speed cables are routed similarly to the 4-speed transmissions. Though the Isuzu was only used on the L4 cars it's not that unusual to see one behind a V6 because of an engine or tranny swap.
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I figured I'd add that to the 4-Banger thread.
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Step 23: Technically the throttle body is only a TB, as a TBI has in injector in it.
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TYPO! Thats my story and I'm sticking to it.
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Also, you probably want to break loose the main axle nut on each side before starting because once everything's apart it's a major PITA to get it loose.
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Indeed. It shall be noted.
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It is not a good idea to crimp a brake line shut, especially old lines like ours, as it may damage the liner and crack the outer shell.
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If you have a new set of Vice Grips then I agree. In my case the ends are so worn that they are unlikely to do much damage but there is a damger of overtightening that should be mentioned.
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That's all I noticed on the first run through aside from spelling and grammer which I'm not worried about.
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I'll be cleaning up the spelling as I go through and add content. I was just too tired to bother with the spell checker.
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Arns85GT
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JAN 02, 02:52 PM
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When we pulled my 2.8, we took off the deck lid, the alternator w/bracket, undid the tranny bolts, (and engine mount) slid the engine forward 2" and pulled it up. We then rolled the cherry picker with engine on it, over to the motor stand, attached it. We even swapped the clutch. No wrestling the engine.
One more way.
Arn[This message has been edited by Arns85GT (edited 01-02-2008).]
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Toddster
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JAN 02, 02:54 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Arns85GT:
When we pulled my 2.8, we took off the deck lid, the alternator w/bracket, undid the tranny bolts, (and engine mount) slid the engine forward 2" and pulled it up. We then rolled the cherry picker with engine on it, over to the motor stand, attached it. We even swapped the clutch. No wrestling the engine.
One more way.
Arn
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Out the Top? 
Heathen.
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Fieroseverywhere
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JAN 02, 09:11 PM
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Fierofreak00
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JAN 03, 07:17 AM
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This may be asking alot but, maybe you should add where to cut the frame when the rear cradle bolts spin instead of coming out( I've got that part down pat). Not all of us live in sunny (rust free) California .
Good job! -Jason[This message has been edited by Fierofreak00 (edited 01-03-2008).]
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