Home wheel alignment (Page 3/3)
sjmaye AUG 11, 05:23 AM
I know this is a dumb question, but how do you get in to adjust the components with the strings up and the wheels on?
fieroguru AUG 11, 08:36 AM

quote
Originally posted by sjmaye:

I know this is a dumb question, but how do you get in to adjust the components with the strings up and the wheels on?



When I do my alignments (Wire attached to conduit and pulled tight), I remove all 4 wheels, use the lug nuts to hold the rotors tight, rest the car on the rotors on blocks and bounce it to make sure everything settles, then bolt on 24" long 1x1 square tube to the rotors and take all measurements from these bars. This gives me easy access to all the adjuster bolts, and my readings are taken 24" apart to help provide more accuracy.

Here is an old pic:

[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 08-11-2008).]

Dodgerunner AUG 11, 05:56 PM

quote
Originally posted by Dodgerunner:

I have used this method for years to set my toe and get great life out of my tires all the time.
If you have to make adjustments to anything you have to be sure and recheck the centering distances to keep the measurement accurate.
Your wheels have to be true and not bent or damaged of course.
After making adjustment to the alignment I take the car for a drive and then setup again to verify or re-adjust.



I take my time and recheck. A beer in hand also helps...

zkhennings APR 19, 03:55 AM
Buddycraig I don't think you can just make the string the same distance away from the wheels centers. On my car at least the front is narrower than the rear by a little, which would mean you actually created a trapezoid. Old I know but the reason dodge runner uses boards and screws for the string is to make sure it actually is a parallelogram. In the rear I set the string 30mm from the hubs and up front to make a rectangle it was 41.47mm from the hubs IIRC. I use some digital calipers to take all measurements. I set everything up for 0 toe all around. At highway speeds I don't love it because every teeny steering input make the car turn. It is really nice at lower speeds, super responsive.

[This message has been edited by zkhennings (edited 04-19-2013).]

rogergarrison JUL 26, 04:48 PM
When I raced Nascar, we did rough alignment with just a piece of string. We ran it across the front of rear wheel (touches 2 points) to across the front of the front wheel (also touches 2 points) up even with the centers . If it touched all 4 points it was straight, then you could adjust the toe by measuring at the rear point of the front tire. You would do both sides the same. It was even called 'stringing' the alignment.

Toe in wont cause a pull to one side. Something is either bent, or caster/ camber is off.

If toe is off, when you drive it will tend to center itself to be off the same amount on both sides so no pull, but will be unstable & wander.
IMSA GT JUL 27, 10:48 PM

quote
Originally posted by rogergarrison:

When I raced Nascar............



Nascar was around in 1922?

Just kidding buddy.

84fiero123 SEP 07, 01:28 PM
I just want to know how you guys get under these things with them on the floor to adjust the tie rods, and others?

I mean there is no room to get at the parts except in the one where he put the thing on cement blocks with the tires off.

Anyone.


I ask because I have to do this myself soon or replace my tires, AGAIN. I have one rear wheel with the tire so far out its wearing on the inside and one wheel on the front with the toe out real bad.

Steve

------------------
Technology is great when it works,
and one big pain in the ass when it doesn't



Detroit iron rules all the rest are just toys.

theogre SEP 09, 10:57 AM
See my Cave, Alignment Spec's

Covers all Fiero years.

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top and bottom of every forum page...)

IanT720 JUL 08, 11:14 AM
An easy way to adjust just the toe is to measure between the center tread on the front side and backside of the wheels. I use a tape measure and a buddy to hold it. Takes like 10mins. I can get it within a 1/16 usually. Then I take it to the shop for a full alignment. This way I don't murder my tires after doing lots of suspension work.
fast40driver OCT 04, 01:04 AM
I had the same problem reaching under the car, with no alignment rack. I cut four pieces of Al plate, about 20" x 6", 1/2" thick, bored them for my hubs, drilled the bolt pattern. I jack up the car, replace the wheels with the plates, use a piece of UHMW with a groove milled in it to fit the AL plate at the bottom of each, resting on some scraps of granite - usually with grease. Easy to adjust camber, just a piece of rod with threaded ends, nuts on inside and outside of plates, running under the car from "wheel" to "wheel" - turn nuts to move wheel. Toe is measured between a couple of pieces of Al angle, clamped to the plates.

Mike W