This writeup assumes all components of both transmissions are in good working order (bearings, synchronizers, etc.) and do not need replacing. These components should be replaced if they are worn. Both transmissions used in this writeup were low mileage transmissions.

Case, Disassembly

Remove shift brackets and speedo sensor (Figure 1.1 & 1.2). Leave the "z" shaped bracket on the shaft that goes into the transmission.


Figure 1.1, Shift Brackets


Figure 1.2, Speedo Sensor

Place the transaxle clutch side down (Figure 1.3), use shims to keep the input shaft and axle seals from touching the surface. Remove the (15) bolts securing the clutch cover to the transaxle case. Leave two bolts threaded, one on each side, to prevent the two halves from coming apart just yet.


Figure 1.3, Case Bolts

Flip the transmission over, and remove those last two bolts. Use a plastic hammer to carefully tap the clutch cover from the transaxle case. Anaerobic sealant is used between the case and cover, instead of a gasket. (Figure 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, & 1.7)


Figure 1.4, Clutch Side Up


Figure 1.5, Case Halves Separated


Figure 1.6, Gears


Figure 1.7, Clutch Cover Removed

Remove the ring gear/differential assembly shown in Figure 1.8 & 1.9. It just lifts out.


Figure 1.8, Removing Ring Gear/Differential


Figure 1.9, Ring Gear/Differential Assembly

[This message has been edited by NJD85GT (edited 04-14-2012).]

Removal of Internal Parts

Position the shifter shaft in the neutral position so that the shifter shaft moves freely and is not engaged in any drive gear. Bend back tab on lock and remove bolt from shifter shaft (Figures 2.1 & 2.2) Remove the shifter shaft and the shift fork shaft from the synchronizer forks as shown in Figures 2.3, 2.4 & 2.5.


Figure 2.1, Shifter Shaft Bolt, Close Up


Figure 2.2, Shifter Shaft Bolt


Figure 2.3, Shift Fork Shaft Removal


Figure 2.4, Shifter Shaft Removal


Figure 2.5, Shifter and Shift Fork Shafts

Remove the reverse shift fork shown in Figures 2.6 & 2.7 by disengaging from the guide pin and interlock bracket.


Figure 2.6, Reverse Shift Fork Removal


Figure 2.7, Reverse Shift Fork Removal

Remove the lock bolt securing the reverse idler gear shaft. This bolt threads in from the outside of the case below the idler gear. Remove the gear/shaft/spacer assembly as shown in Figures 2.8 & 2.9.


Figure 2.8, Reverse Idler Gear Removal


Figure 2.9, Reverse Idler Gear Removal

Remove the detent shift lever and interlock assembly (Figure 2.10). Leave shift forks engaged with the synchronizers as shown in Figure 2.11. Do not remove the detent spring.


Figure 2.10, Detent Shift Lever & Interlock Assembly Removal


Figure 2.11, Interlock Assembly

Grasp the input and output shafts and then lift them as an assembly from the case. Note the position of the shift forks, shown in Figure 2.13, for aid when reinstalling later. Remove the shift forks (Figures 2.12, 2.13, 2.14, & 2.15)


Figure 2.12, Shift Forks on Gear Shafts


Figure 2.13, Shafts/Shift Forks


Figure 2.14, Shift Forks Removed From Gear Shafts


Figure 2.15, Input and Output Shaft Assemblies.
Left: Input Shaft, From Bottom: 4th, 3rd, 2nd, Reverse, 1st.
Right, Output Shaft, From Bottom: 4th, 3rd, 2nd, 1st, Pinion to Ring Gear.

[This message has been edited by NJD85GT (edited 04-07-2012).]

Input Shaft Disassembly, MY8 and M17

Slide the left hand bearing and 4th gear from input shaft. They slide off very easily. (Figure 3.1)


Figure 3.1, Bearing and 4th Gear Removed

Remove brass blocker ring, Shown in Figure 3.2. Remove the snap ring from the 3-4 synchronizer (Figure 3.3).


Figure 3.2, Brass Blocker Ring Removed


Figure 3.3, Snap Ring (On Shaft Next To Synchronizer Behind Splines)

Slide 3rd gear and 3-4 synchronizer from input shaft. They also should slide off easily, a press should not be needed as shown in the figure from the manual (Figures 3.4, 3.5, & 3.6).


Figure 3.4, From Right: Bearing, 4th Gear, Brass Blocker Ring, Synchronizer Sleeve With Snap Ring in the Middle (Do Not Need to Remove From Synch. Hub), Synchronizer Hub With 3rd Gear Underneath


Figure 3.5, Bare Input Shaft


Figure 3.6, Removing 3-4 Synch. and 3rd Gear (Input)

[This message has been edited by NJD85GT (edited 04-07-2012).]

Input shaft Reassembly, Hybrid

Lubricate all parts prior to reassembly.

Locate the M17 input shaft, and place the MY8 3rd gear onto the shaft, oriented toward the 3-4 synchronizer. Install the brass blocker ring onto the gear cone, then install the 3-4 synchronizer, using an appropriate cylinder to contact the hub, near the shaft. Do not press on the sleeve portion (Figure 4.1). Both synchronizer hubs are a press fit to the shafts. I just hand placed them on the shaft, no cylinder needed.


Figure 4.1, Installing 3rd Gear and 3-4 Synchronizer.

Install the snap ring to retain the 3-4 synchronizer. Be sure to position snap ring with beveled edges away from synchronizer for later access with snap ring pliers (Figure 4.2).


Figure 4.2, Installing Snap Ring.

Install brass blocker ring. Slide the MY8 4th speed gear onto shaft, oriented toward the 3-4 synchronizer and slide left hand bearing onto the shaft.

[This message has been edited by NJD85GT (edited 04-13-2012).]

Output Shaft Disassembly, MY8

Using support plates behind 4th gear, press on the end of the output shaft to remove 4th gear and the left hand bearing (Figures 5.1 - 5.3). I used a small 5-ton press.


Figure 5.1, MY8 Assembled Output Shaft. Notice the separate 3rd & 4th Gears.


Figure 5.2, 4th Gear and Bearing Removed.


Figure 5.3, Pressing 4th Gear Off.

Remove the snap ring retaining 3rd gear. Slide the 1-2 synchronizer assembly into first gear position to allow press plates to support 2nd gear. Press 2nd speed gear and 3rd gear from the output shaft. Remove the brass blocker ring (Figures 5.4 & 5.5).


Figure 5.4, Pressing 2nd & 3rd Gears Off.


Figure 5.5, Pressing 2nd & 3rd Gears Off.

Remove the snap ring retaining the 1-2 synchronizer. Using press plates behind 1st speed gear, press 1st gear and 1-2 synchronizer from the output shaft (Figures 5.6 & 5.7). I was able to do this without the press.


Figure 5.6, Pressing 1st Gear Off.


Figure 5.7, Disassembled MY8 Output Shaft.

[This message has been edited by NJD85GT (edited 04-13-2012).]

Output Shaft Disassembly, M17

Remove the retainer from the left hand end of the shaft. The retainer and shaft are designed with LEFT HAND threads. This retainer uses a triple square bit, and is torqued to 45 ft•lb, and I was unable to remove it without starting to strip it. Because you do not need to use the M17 output shaft for this hybrid transmission, I used a grinder and cut the flange off the retainer. Using support plates behind 4th gear, press on the end of the output shaft to remove 3rd/4th gear and the left hand bearing (Figures 6.1 - 6.4). Third and fourth gear is a one piece gear on the M17 transaxle.


Figure 6.1, Assembled M17 Output Shaft


Figure 6.2, 3rd/4th Gear Removed.


Figure 6.3, 3rd/4th Gear.


Figure 6.4, Pressing Off 3rd/4th Gear.

Slide 2nd speed gear from the output shaft. Remove the brass blocker ring. Remove the snap ring retaining the 1-2 synchronizer. (Figure 6.5).


Figure 6.5, 2nd Gear Removed.

Using press plates behind 1st speed gear, press 1st gear and 1-2 synchronizer from the output shaft (Figure X). I was able to do this without the press.


Figure 6.6, Pressing Off 1st Gear.


Figure 6.7, M17 Output Shaft & Gears.


Figure 6.8, M17 Output Shaft.

[This message has been edited by NJD85GT (edited 04-14-2012).]

Output shaft Reassembly, Hybrid

Lubricate all parts prior to reassembly.

Locate the MY8 output shaft, and place the M17 1st speed gear onto the shaft, oriented toward the 1-2 synchronizer. Place the brass blocker ring onto the gear cone, then install the 1-2 synchronizer using an appropriate cylinder to press on the hub, near the shaft. Do not press on the sleeve portion (Figure 7.1). I just hand placed them on the shaft, no cylinder needed.


Figure 7.1, Installing 1st Speed Gear and 1-2 Synch.

Install the snap ring to retain the 1-2 synchronizer. Place the brass blocker ring into position. Place the M17 2nd speed gear onto the shaft, oriented toward the 1-2 synchronizer, then press the MY8 3rd gear onto the shaft, with its hub toward 4th gear. Use an appropriate cylinder to contact 3rd gear hub near the shaft (Figure 7.2). I inverted the shaft, placed 3rd gear on support plates, and pressed on the right hand end of the shaft with my press. When you can install the snap ring in the groove, you have pressed enough. (Figure 7.3).


Figure 7.2, Installing 2nd and 3rd Speed Gears.


Figure 7.3, Pressing 3rd Gear Into Place.

Install snap ring to retain 3rd gear. Press the MY8 4th gear onto the shaft, with its hub toward 3rd gear, using support plates. Install left hand bearing cone on the shaft. (Figure 7.4).


Figure 7.4, Installing 4th Gear and L.H. Bearing.

[This message has been edited by NJD85GT (edited 04-13-2012).]

The following section is optional, but highly recommended to set the correct pre-load on the bearings. This requires special shim selector tools, I bought mine off of Ebay for $17.

Shim Selection

Place the input and output shaft assemblies and the MY8 differential assembly into their installed positions.

Remove the input, output, and differential bearing cups and shims from the clutch cover.

Place the (3) right hand bearing races onto their respective bearings.

Position (3) gages; J-26935-2 on input bearing and J-26935-4 onto output bearing. Be sure the bearing races fit smoothly into the bores of the gauge tools (Figures 8.1 - 8.5).


Figure 8.1, Shim Selector Kit.


Figure 8.2, Shim Selector Kit Instructions.


Figure 8.3, Shim Selector Kit.


Figure 8.4, Gauges In Position.


Figure 8.5, Gauges In Position.

On J-26935-4, (output shaft), install oil shield retainer into bore on top of tool.

Carefully assemble the clutch cover over the (3) gages and onto the case, using (7) spacers placed evenly around the perimeter. Retain with bolts provided (Figure 8.6).


Figure 8.6, Compressing Gauges.

Draw the cover to the case by tightening alternately and gradually. Torque bolts to 10 ft•lb. This will compress all three gauge sleeves. Rotate each gage to seat the bearings. Rotate the differential case through three revolutions in each direction.

With the three gauges compresses, the gap between the outer sleeve and the base pad is larger than the correct preload shim at each location. Carefully compare the gap to the available shims. Determine the largest shim that can be placed into the gap and drawn through without binding. Then use the next shim size smaller on the output shaft and differential for reassembly. On the input shaft, use a shim 2 sizes smaller. If end play occurs, use the next larger shim sizes (Figure 8.7).


Figure 8.7, Measuring Gap.

When each of the three shim sized has been selected, remove the clutch cover, (7) spacers and (3) gauges. Place the selected shims into their respective bore in the clutch cover, add the metal shield and then install the bearing cups.

[This message has been edited by NJD85GT (edited 04-13-2012).]

Case, Reassembly

Place the input shaft and output shaft together, on a bench. Install the two shift forks in the same configuration as when they were removed earlier.

Grasp the shafts as an assembly and carefully lower them into the transaxle case. Use care not to nick gears. Don’t forget the little plastic oil shield on the ends of the shafts.

Replace the detent shift lever and interlock assembly into the case.

Install the shifter shaft through the interlock bracket and the detent shift lever. Do not extend further at this time.

Install reverse shift fork onto the guide pin. Be sure the reverse shift fork engages the interlock bracket.

Install the reverse idler gear and shaft into position. Be sure the long end of the shaft points upward, and the large chamfered ends of the gear teeth are facing up. Install the spacer onto the shaft. The flat on the reverse idler shaft faces the input gear (shaft).

Fully install the shifter shaft through the reverse shift fork, until it pilots into the inhibitor spring spacer. With the shaft in neutral position, install the bolt and lock through the detent shift lever. Bend tab of lock over bolt head.

Install fork shaft through the synchronizer forks and into the bore in the case.

Carefully install the MY8 ring gear and differential case assembly.

Apply a thin bead of anaerobic sealant (do not use RTV) to the clutch cover (Figures 9.1 & 9.2), then carefully install the cover onto the transaxle case, using the dowel pins to guide the cover into position. Tap the clutch cover gently with a plastic hammer to insure that the parts are seated.


Figure 9.1, Anaerobic Sealant.


Figure 9.2, Anaerobic Sealant.

Install the (15) attaching bolts. Torque to specifications.

Torque idler shaft retaining bolt in case.

Shift through the gear ranges to test for freedom of movement of all internal parts.

Replace shift brackets and speedo sensor.

Spend a week cleaning your trans case and then paint it. Enjoy!


Cleaning Case.


Primered.


Nice and Shiny.


Torque Specifications.

[This message has been edited by NJD85GT (edited 04-13-2012).]