I welcome any comments from others to help cover any mistakes I make or to offer an easier or cheaper way for this to be done.

In my pics you will notice I have done the Grand Am brake upgrade so I have no e-brake cables to deal with, you will of course have to detach the cable from the caliper if you still have the stock brake set-up.

My vehicle is a 1984 SE

I will start with the assumption that you have the car safely supported, the rear wheels off and you've purchased the rear bearing hubs.

Start by disconecting the brake line from the strut.
As I have done the GA upgrade I have 7/16" nuts and bolts, I'm not sure what the stock bolt size is.

Next remove the caliper bolts, mine needed the T-47 TORX bit.

With the caliper off support it out of the way with a piece of wire.

Using an 18mm socket partly remove the nut.

To get the tapered shaft to pop loose I hit up on the castle nut with a hammer several times, leaving the nut on helps protect the threads.
Yes you can get a special tool to do this also.

Now remove the nut and bolt that holds the lower ball joint to the knuckle assembly, this takes a 15mm socket on each side.

Using a 30mm socket partly remove the nut on the end of the axel shaft, I used a long pry bar in the studs on the hub to keep the hub from spinning.

Once again hit the nut with a hammer to pop the axel shaft loose from the hub.
The new bearing hub has a new 30mm nut, discard the old one but save the washer that was behind the nut as this will be re-used

Now up into the engine compartment and using a 13mm socket remove the nuts from the top of the strut.

Now pry the lower A-arm down to get the ball joint stud out of the knuckle assembly, pull the strut toward you to get the axel shaft out of the hub assembly and lower the strut out of the wheelwell.

Take the dust shield off and set it aside.

Pry the bearing hub loose from the knuckle.

Install the new seal that comes with the bearing hub, I used a small punch and went around the outside tapping it in with a hammer, I left lots of little dents in the seal case but it didn't seem to distort the seal itself, if you have a seal installer tool use that, my way works but it's not the best.

Clean the end of the axel shaft and put a little grease on it as well.

Install the bearing hub into the knuckle, replace the dust shield and start the three bolts.
Using a torque wrench torque these bolts to 55-70 FT. LB.

Re-install the strut into the vehicle in the reverse order you removed it.

The nuts at the top of the strut should be torqued to 18 FT. LB.

The toe link rod castle nut should be torqued to 30-39 FT. LB. and the cotter pin replaced with a new one.

The nut and bolt that holds the ball joint stud to the knuckle assembly should be torqued to 30-36 FT. LB.

The worst part I had here was getting the ball joint stud to pop back into the knuckle.
The grove in the ball joint stud must be aligned with the hole in the knuckle assembly before insertion.

Put the old washer and then the new 30mm nut that came with the bearing hub onto the axel shaft.

Now the hard part, the axel nut has to be torqued to 200 FT. LB.
I went to 150 FT. LB. that my tourque wrench maxed out at and later hit the nut with an air impact wrench to give it a little more.

Now re-install the rotor and caliper and re-attach the brake line to the strut.

I replaced both sides on my Fiero as the drivers side had developed a slight howl at highway speed, all's good now.

Wrench on dudes.

HoHo

BTW, I replaced my axle nuts at the same time. These must be replaced ANY TIME THEY ARE REMOVED!