In an earlier post I asked how to fix oil leaks around the valve cover. theorge replied to replace the valve cover gasket among other things. Dan gave detailed instructions, but seamed to imply that I shouldn't use a gasket only sealer. The Haynes repair manual says to use only gasket sealer (3/16" vs. Dan's 1/4"). When I removed the valve cover it didn't have a gasket, only sealer.

Should I use the cork gasket and put the sealer on both sides or skip the gasket and use only the sealer?

Sigh! I keep forgetting to mention that it is an 84 SE with the 2.5 liter L4.

P.S. The little nubs on the valve cover gasket surface make cleaning up the old gasket sealer a real pain.

Woo hoo! You outta get a load of different answers on that question!

I myself use the RTV material all the time. I've never had a problem with it. Never.

Of course, I dont use it where I shouldnt, like on the oil pan, or any other cover that's made for a gasket. My oil pan has a "ridge" pressed into the contacting surface; I've always assumed that the ridge was intended to press against and hold the gasket. No ridge...? No gasket- use the rtv. One man's opinion.

If you use a silicone sealant (RTV) and the gasket the end result is that the gasket will slide out of position creating an oil leak. Use one or the other but not both. I use the silicone and haven't had any problems, but I know that when the time comes I will bend the valve cover tring to pry it loose. If you use some kind of glue to attach the gasket to the valve cover you can then use silicone on the other side, but what a mess you will have if you ever want to change the gasket.

[This message has been edited by David (edited 10-02-1999).]

Most of the time when I've seen people use the silicon sealer without a gasket, it evenually will leak some. I usually apply a very thin coat to one side of the gasket, fit the gasket onto the valve cover, wait until it sets up, then bolt the cover on. This way the gasket stays on the valve cover very nicely, but doesn't stick to the head, if you have to remove it again in the future. I prefer using the Fel-Pro neoprene rubber gaskets rather than the cork ones, they seal better and last longer.

on a good valve cover..... coat both sides of the gasket with either super 300 or HiTack gasket adhesive. Aviation sealer is good if you can find it.

People who use only RTV are generally asking for leaks. If the cover is bent up a bit, RTV can be used with a gasket. Make sure everything is Very clean or the RTV will not stick. Neither will any of the other sealers above.

Do not get excecive with RTV. Peices of it can break loose and plug up oil pasages. Not a good thing.

As for material..... I like the "rubber" gaskets better than cork. They take a better seal and hold it longer. they are also less prone to crush destruction.

[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 10-02-1999).]

Been there, done all that. Iv'e been working
on engines for over30 years. Call it a refined process, but if you follow those steps it will work like I say it does. Yes, it will cause bending when removed,but you should always straighten the flange on flimsey covers when removed anyway.How often do you remove the valve cover anyway.Oil leaks in Fieros are proven to be hazardous and done properly, I have confidence in knowing my machine isn't going to bbq due to oil leaks.

ok, I have use a little silicon on the gasket to stick it to the vavle cover for years, and have even had a leak .. Split a few cork ones though, and broke a vavle cove

If everything else fails...Weld the darn valve covers..that should take care of the leak!!!...just kidding...

[This message has been edited by 88 Fiero (edited 10-03-1999).]

The job is done! New grommets, new oil filler cap, new PCV and (much) new RTV.

Now to wait 24 hours for the RTV to set and then test to see if I did it right.

Thanks to all who responded.

I found that a wire brush was a good adjunct to the 150 grit sand paper for cleaning up the valve cover gasket surface.