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Changing front spark plugs on a V6 by burdell1
Started on: 06-22-2000 11:37 AM
Replies: 23
Last post by: stsmithgt on 06-26-2000 01:37 PM
burdell1
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Report this Post06-22-2000 11:37 AM Click Here to See the Profile for burdell1Send a Private Message to burdell1Direct Link to This Post
Any tips on an easy way to change the spark plugs on a V6?
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Report this Post06-22-2000 11:52 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Gold-86SESend a Private Message to Gold-86SEDirect Link to This Post

unbolt and remove the deck lid, sure fire easiest way to change the plugs. did it on mine had the plugs change in about 20 minutes, not couting the few minutes to remove and reattach the deck lid.
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bHooper
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Report this Post06-22-2000 12:01 PM Click Here to See the Profile for bHooperSend a Private Message to bHooperDirect Link to This Post
the easiest way to get to the plugs is to drop the engine
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tgowens
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Report this Post06-22-2000 12:10 PM Click Here to See the Profile for tgowensClick Here to visit tgowens's HomePageSend a Private Message to tgowensDirect Link to This Post
I just used a swivel socket and didn't have to take the deck lid off or drop the engine.......besides, it takes longer to drop the engine than it does to take a deck lid off!
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StuGood
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Report this Post06-22-2000 12:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for StuGoodSend a Private Message to StuGoodDirect Link to This Post
There's more room between the engine and firewall than you think. Once I installed all 3 forward-bank plugs in about ten minutes - while a guy stood there and complained the whole time about how hard it was .

I just use a standard ratchet and the usual length extension (3" I think). And a plug socket, of course. Approach the car from the passenger side to get all 3 plugs. If memory serves, think I usually had the best results sticking socket+extension on the plug first, then bring the ratchet in and attach to the extension.

If the plugs are stubborn, I use a swivel-head ratchet and piece of pipe on that for more leverage.

If this is your first try, might want to disconnect battery first. If (when) you drop the socket/extension/wrench, it tends to roll down on the heat shield and lands near the starter - too close to the "hot" terminal. Let's not arc-weld our tools to the starter, please !

[This message has been edited by StuGood (edited 06-22-2000).]

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Fret Naught
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Report this Post06-22-2000 12:48 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fret NaughtSend a Private Message to Fret NaughtDirect Link to This Post
I did mine with a standard Plug socket a 3" extension and a 8" extension, plus a wobbely (helps prevent snaping off a plug) I did not remove the deck lid, I sat on the rear trunk edge with my feet down in the trunk. it was easier than I expected, took about 30 min. for the whole swap.
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dman
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Report this Post06-22-2000 03:15 PM Click Here to See the Profile for dmanSend a Private Message to dmanDirect Link to This Post
Hey everyone. Here's a good tip that I picked up here on the forum from a post by WKDFIRO.

If you need more clearance to work in that area, like changing/inspecting the exhaust manifold, or even changing the plugs, do this:

Place your floor jack on the rear portion of the cradle. Loosen or even remove the rear cradle bolts, then lower with the jack. This tilts the whole cradle backwards making that area a whole lot easier to work on. You can safely remove the rear cradle bolts because your dog bone will protect you from lowering the rear too far.

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wkayl
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Report this Post06-22-2000 03:47 PM Click Here to See the Profile for wkaylSend a Private Message to wkaylDirect Link to This Post
There are 4 steps to replace the firewall side plugs.

Step 1...Empty trunk
Step 2...Stand in trunk
Step 3...Reach around with left arm from the rear of the engine
Step 4...Remove and replace the plugs

I have done this on both my and my son's 86GTs and it takes about 30 min to replace all 6 plugs. It is done with a standard 3/8 drive socket wrench, 2" extension and 5/8 plug socket.

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Raydar
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Report this Post06-22-2000 04:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RaydarSend a Private Message to RaydarDirect Link to This Post
If the plugs have been in the engine for a while, it may help to pull off the wires, spray liquid wrench down into the holes, and let them marinate overnite. I'm not sure how long my plugs had been in the engine, when I replaced them, (They weren't burnt up.), but they came out fairly easily.
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GT Bastard
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Report this Post06-22-2000 04:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for GT BastardClick Here to visit GT Bastard's HomePageSend a Private Message to GT BastardDirect Link to This Post
Lower the cradle to change your spark plugs!???!!? Ok, removing the decklid is a little overkill in my opinion, but lowering the cradle is insanity. I've done 3 sets with a 3/8 drive and a short extension. 15 minutes tops....
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GT Bastard
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Report this Post06-22-2000 04:47 PM Click Here to See the Profile for GT BastardClick Here to visit GT Bastard's HomePageSend a Private Message to GT BastardDirect Link to This Post

GT Bastard

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Lower the cradle to change your spark plugs!???!!? Ok, removing the decklid is a little overkill in my opinion, but lowering the cradle is insanity. I've done 3 sets with a 3/8 drive and a short extension. 15 minutes tops....
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Report this Post06-22-2000 04:51 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Gold-86SESend a Private Message to Gold-86SEDirect Link to This Post

I am strictly curious, with no intent to flame, but why is there such an adversity to removing the deck lid to work on the engine? Having the thing out of the way sure makes mechanic life much easier.
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sully5
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Report this Post06-22-2000 05:52 PM Click Here to See the Profile for sully5Send a Private Message to sully5Direct Link to This Post
I just changed mine, and had a little trouble. I was able to reach in and get to all the plugs, but they had been in there so long (like almost 7 yrs) that just a rachet wouldn't get it. Had to take the deck lid off to get a cheater bar in there. After that, it was super easy. Hopefully next time it won't be that hard.
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rogergarrison
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Report this Post06-22-2000 05:55 PM Click Here to See the Profile for rogergarrisonSend a Private Message to rogergarrisonDirect Link to This Post
I do it just like stugood. Gotta do it by feel, hardest part is getting new plug in right hole without crossthreading. just plug socket and 3/8 rachet, takes a few minutes cause you can only get a small turn with each pull.
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RiceCooker
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Report this Post06-22-2000 07:02 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RiceCookerSend a Private Message to RiceCookerDirect Link to This Post
I did it my first time by standing in the trunk and using a flex handle ratshit. I scraped up my hands pretty good but it only took me about 30 mins.
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dman
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Report this Post06-22-2000 07:16 PM Click Here to See the Profile for dmanSend a Private Message to dmanDirect Link to This Post
GT Bastard.

I provided a good tip. If you need the extra clearance in that area, for whatever reason --- change plugs, fix dipstick tube, remove manifold, the tip works. Use it or don't, if you want to call it insanity then fine )

But sometimes you really do need that clearance, especially when the plug breaks, or was never changed and is completely rusted over, or when that manifold nut is rounded off -- whatever.

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dman
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Report this Post06-22-2000 07:18 PM Click Here to See the Profile for dmanSend a Private Message to dmanDirect Link to This Post

dman

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Hey GT Bastard, Hmmm....when I put in a regular smiley face using these three characters ':' 'o' ')' it seems that UBB turns it into a red face. Not what I intended. I wanted a regular happy face. Hope you know what i mean.
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Frank R
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Report this Post06-22-2000 07:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Frank RSend a Private Message to Frank RDirect Link to This Post
Here are a few words of info for changing plugs.....on any engine. WD40 will loosen stuck plug wires. Wipe any dirt, grease and etc before removing the plugs. Flex ratchets work great as they adjust to any clearance. After plug removal, a compression test is good. Every sparkplug I change, I apply an anti sieze compound to the threads. Never a stuck plug again. To be able to just screw the plugs back into the holes, use a 6 inch piece of vacumn hose slipped over out side end of plug. This handy hose allows for instant alignment and install. The plug will nearly screw up snug except for the last littlr torque up. WD40 cleans plug wires and improves the conductivity. Frank R...
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GT Bastard
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Report this Post06-22-2000 08:55 PM Click Here to See the Profile for GT BastardClick Here to visit GT Bastard's HomePageSend a Private Message to GT BastardDirect Link to This Post
Dman, sorry for being so harsh... If you want to remove your door lock cylinders to gain access to your spark plugs, that's cool by me! Peace!
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tgowens
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Report this Post06-22-2000 09:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for tgowensClick Here to visit tgowens's HomePageSend a Private Message to tgowensDirect Link to This Post
the best advice I can give anybody here (since I haven't seen it mentioned) is, let the engine cool first! (ok, so that was a 'duh' comment. I have never had to remove the decklid or drop the cradle, granted either method would make it easier (unless you consider the time and effort to remove the deck lid or drop the cradle.......sure, it's a little work to change the front plugs but then, what isn't on these little cars??? That's part of the thrill of them - the challenge of the winning and the agony of de-feet........
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Monkeyman
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Report this Post06-23-2000 10:25 AM Click Here to See the Profile for MonkeymanSend a Private Message to MonkeymanDirect Link to This Post
They make a little A frame device for pulling your motor back. You have to remove the dogbone, then install this in it's place. You turn the built in screw/bolt one way and it pulls the motor back some. (I've seen it in use on the Grape Ape. Neat idea, IMO.) If anyone's interested, I'll ask my mechanic next time I'm over there (sometime next week) who makes it and what it costs.
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WKDFIRO
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Report this Post06-25-2000 02:38 PM Click Here to See the Profile for WKDFIROSend a Private Message to WKDFIRODirect Link to This Post
When I mentioned the trick about dropping the back of the cradle I meant it primarily for exhaust purposes I kinda meant the plugs as a joke, it IS easier to take off the trunk lid but I myself not a week ago took off the 3 mystical plugs in the back only taking off the intake tube (from air cleaner to throttle body) Hardest part was taking off some baked on plug wires. These plugs are not THAT hard to get!
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Bruce
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Report this Post06-25-2000 03:11 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BruceSend a Private Message to BruceDirect Link to This Post
Try changing the plugs on an '81 Mustang V8 with air conditioning!
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stsmithgt
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Report this Post06-26-2000 01:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for stsmithgtClick Here to visit stsmithgt's HomePageSend a Private Message to stsmithgtDirect Link to This Post
I had a hard enough time changing the plug wires. My hands don't fit up there. I was going to find someone small enough to gety those back plugs in for me. My nephew might be a good choice. I can bribe him with a video game.
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