Anyone have a recommendation on the torque specs for the lower front ball joints on 88s? The Haynes manual says 26lbs but the instruction that came with the TRW ball joints says 63lbs. Which to use?

Thanks,
Tom

Are you talking about the castle nut? I never torque them down, per se. Crank it down until it gets nice & tight then turn some more to line up the holes and pop in a cotter pin. I don't think they need to be torqued to a specific value, just as long as there's no slop between it and the spindle.

My factory service manual says to torque it to (26-ft. lbs.)+ 1/2 turn (180-degrees) maximum 1/16 turn to align and install cotter pin.

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I wouldn't go any higher than 26. If you torque them too tight you get binding and a very heavy "feel". Plus, the steering never straightens out on its own. Been there, done that. Had to back them off, and just snugged 'em up, and tightened again until the hole lined up.

Uh, aren't those castle nuts for the hub? He's asking about the balljoints, I'm fairly sure that they are just a plain locknut... though I could be wrong

quote Originally posted by Mach10: Uh, aren't those castle nuts for the hub? He's asking about the balljoints, I'm fairly sure that they are just a plain locknut... though I could be wrong

Nope. Everything up front (upper & lower balljoints & outer tie rod) are fastened with castle nuts and cotter pins. Some brands use a regular lock nut, but I wouldn't risk it......if that nut backs off you're in trouble. With the cotter pin it will not bacl off.

Besides.....'88 Fieros have sealed front bearings (no nut for the hub).

Ah. I see.

Well, I'd want that nut torqued down. Wouldn't want anything suspension-wise moving around in a corner. I'd probably torque down to what the product says, as it was probably engineered to those specs. Just my 0.003244c (0.02CDN)

Oh. I ran out to the parking lot to see. Looked like reqular nuts to me (Quiet in the peanut gallery). That is, until I broke some of the caked on mud. I hate the street I live on

[This message has been edited by Mach10 (edited 07-21-2001).]

A lot of the replacement ball joints I have gotten recently have the self locking nuts with the plastic insert. They can be a pain to install and torque since the ball joint stud often wants to move when you are turning against the plastic in the nut.

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Bob
2 - 87 GT's
85 SE 4 cyl

I went with the 26 lbs that the haynes manual says. I think the 63 lbs the instructions that came with the ball joints is too much. So far she rides smooth. No vibration, no pulling or drifting. Didn't even have to get an alignment.