Hello guys,
I'm going to replace front lower ball joints during the next weekend. I doesn't seem to be too complicated, however, I got some questions to ask.

1. Is it really necessary to remove steering rack to get a rear control arm bolt out?

2. What if I just loosen and cut it at its place without removal of steering rack?

3. If I do cut it, what size and tread bolt replacement should I buy?

4. How do I put the springs back without spring compressor?

Thanks a lot.

[This message has been edited by Vlad (edited 08-28-2001).]

If you are just replacing the lower ball joints why are you removing the control arm. Ball joints are available separatly (aftermarket suppliers) and if you still have originall bj's in the car just grind the tack welds off to press old out and then press the new ones in. I have never done this only read about it though.

------------------

I also thinking about replacing the bushings (with another rubber set).

On another hand, it would be too much pain to get them out and then in without using
machine shop press.

quote Originally posted by Vlad: Hello guys, I'm going to replace front lower ball joints during the next weekend. I doesn't seem to be too complicated, however, I got some questions to ask. 1. Does it really necessary to remove steering rack to get a rear control arm bolt out? I believe on the '84-'87 Fieros the rack interferes with one of the bolts, so yes.....you'll have to remove (or partially remove) the steering rack. I'm glad all I have are '88s!! 2. What if I just loosen and cut it at its place without removal of steering rack? You could do that, I suppose. 3. If I do cut it, what size and tread bolt replacement should I buy? If you cut the old bolt off because you can't get it around the rack, then trying to intall a new bolt wouldn't work.....right? 4. How do I put the springs back without spring compressor?

If you have the front end high enough off of the ground you can swing the lower control arm down enough to install the spring.

Stick the top end of the spring in the perch then, with a floor jack under the lower control arm, lift the control arm up a little bit.

Now seat the spring (there is a notch on the lower control arm) by twisting it clockwise until it hits the stopper.

Finish jacking up until you can reattach the balloint to the spindle.

Good luck!

>If you cut the old bolt off because you >can't get it around the rack, then trying >to intall a new bolt wouldn't >work.....right?

Actually, this is wrong. The only reason for removal of the steering rack is that in the earlier cars the nut that goes to that bolt pointed toward the rear while in the later years they solved this issue just by pointing the nut toward the front.
So nothing is preventing me from following GM solution...

Regarding the springs, after reading all horror stories about flying springs I decided to borrow spring compressor from the local shop and this way solve all the spring troubles.

Thanks for your reply, MrFiero.

[This message has been edited by Vlad (edited 08-29-2001).]

I was able to remove the front bolt without removing the steering rack.

Disconnecting the tie-rod helps to raise the link and also turning the steering wheel to the right. Still had to finesse the bolt head across the plastic boot just a bit, but it worked.

The lower control arm bolts can be a pain in the ---, if you run into problems let us know.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Vlad:

Actually, this is wrong. The only reason for removal of the steering rack is that in the earlier cars the nut that goes to that bolt pointed toward the rear while in the later years they solved this issue just by pointing the nut toward the front.
So nothing is preventing me from following GM solution...

OK.....like I said, I have only done this on '88s and there are no bolt issues. If that's the case I would cut the old one off go that route.

Regarding the springs, after reading all horror stories about flying springs I decided to borrow spring compressor from the local shop and this way solve all the spring troubles.

The springs aren't under that much of a load.....really. When removing the springs all of the tension will be released before you are even able to pop it out, so they won't go anywhere. Use a floor jack to lower the control arm and you'll be OK. I have never used spring compressors on a Fiero!

Even the rear springs......I remove the big nut on the top of the strut with an impact wrench (slowly) and when the nut comes off there is only a small expansion of the spring.

At any rate......do what you need to do and good luck!

Thanks for your reply, MrFiero.

No problem!

quote Originally posted by Vlad: > Regarding the springs, after reading all horror stories about flying springs I decided to borrow spring compressor from the local shop and this way solve all the spring troubles.

Before removing the spring, place a floor jack under the lower a-arm and compress the spring. Use a chain to hold the spring in it's compressed state. I use a chain in two places on the spring and then when i have to re-install the spring it is already compressed. You can push the spring in in it's free length state but its hard to do and it's best to do with a friend's help to avoid injury.
As for replacing the lower ball joints, they are welded in place and I don't think you can just break the welds and press in new ones on the car, I recently did mine and I re-welded the new ones in just to be safe and I don't think I would have been able to get them pressed in with the a arm still on the car. BTW, thoses bolts can be tough to remove, I ended up cutting mine off to get them out, they rusted themselves to the inner sleeves of the a arm bushings so the bushings had to be replaced too. Make sure you replace any broken bolts with a new bolt of equal strength, PEP-Boys had metric 9.8 bolts (i think that was the correct rating).
As for the steering rack being in the way, I already had the rack removed so I don't know if that was a possible interference point.

Be careful I know you are thinking no duh!! but that chain Idea scares me when I hear stuff like that.

I don't quite understand how you guys can get the springs in without a compressor???

No way no how could I get the stock springs back in without compressors. I tried to put them in uncompressed and I just don't see how it can be done. The control arm needs to be almost vertical to bend the spring over to the seat, and then how do you get a jack under it? Even with compressors it took everything me and my father had with a big pry bar to get the spring to meet the lower seat as we raised the arm.

I used external hook compressors. I compressed the spring as much as I could, placed the hooks on either side then wrapped the coil and hooks covering them with about 3 or 4 rounds of ducktape. Yes, the handyman secret weapon, ducktape. The ducktape kept the hooks from jumping around on the coil and trying to come together on one side.

Could be if a drop spring is physically shorter than the stock, maybe yea you can put them in without compressors.

In any case be careful around those springs, they can easily become a potential energy bomb.

[This message has been edited by Tigger (edited 08-29-2001).]

quote Originally posted by Tigger: I don't quite understand how you guys can get the springs in without a compressor???

I know it seems impossible but it can be done. In fact, the Pontiac service manual for my 84 says that is the way to do it, place a jack under the a-arm and have a friend to help as you guide the spring in. it is a b*tch but it does go in...eventually.

It goes in just like the books and everyone says. It is awkward but it goes.

You put in the bushing bolt. (Leave it LOOSE!)
you hold the spring in place and Carefully jack the ball joint end.

Take the grease fitting out of the lower ball joint... if the jack hits it it will snap right off. The remaining piece could be a turd to get out.

To make this a little safer, you could get some rope and tie the spring so the thing can't go far if you slip with the jack.

Once the front end is back together...
put the cars full weight on the suspension and then tighten the bolt thru the rubber bushing.

If you tighten the bushing bolts before the car is on the ground you'll destroy them in no time. Likely before you get out of the driveway.

[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 08-29-2001).]

Hey Vlad!
Good timing!
I just finished the right front suspention tonite!
I did not remove or loosen the stearing rack to get the front bolt out, but I did have to beat on it and heat it cheery red a few times to break loose the rust...
I have a couple of 1/2 inch extentions I use as pin punches as well as a 5 lb. Ford tool just for such problems!
Depending on your time to complete, clean and paint the control arms, I have a week and a half into mine, but that includes shipping time from ordering to delivery...
Course, I also sand blasted my arms, zink chromated and painted them...

I had to buy external spring compressors to reinstall my springs on my 86, but on my 84 it was like the book...
I think the wire is stiffer and has more coils than the 84...

I am hoping to be on the road friday nite or saturday, if all goes well...
As soon as I get the rest of my pics ready I can do a photo jurnal of the work involved!

------------------
crash... The Fierowrecker

Thanks a lot, guys, for all your responses.

With all this knowlege I hope to be able to do the job in one day.