86 SE V6 4spd. Car had a new clutch put in less than 10k miles ago. The clutch and everything about the car works fine. However it is showing the apparently common symptons of the clutch not engaging. Ive checked the archives on the subject, as well as V8 Archies section about the changing the aluminum clutch pedal to a new steel one. Judging by what Ive read and my symptoms, Im pretty sure this is my problem. Now to my question; is it noticable to the eye if the (aluminum) clutch pedal is bent? Mine doesnt appear to be, but its hard to tell by looking. Thank you.

Its not the pedal itself that bends, its the U shaped part of it up under the dash.

If the pedal is not bent, when you open the door, and look in at the pedals, the clutch pedal should sit about 3/4- 1" higher than the brake pedal.

If it sits lower than this, or even with the brake pedal, suspect a bent pedal.

Try sticking a magnet to the pedal to see if it sticks, if it doesn't, the pedal is aluminum.

Be warned, I have seen bent steel pedals, so use both procedures, the magnet, and pedal height

Pedal appears to be slightly higher than the break pedal. Hard to tell, but looks like maybe 1/2 inch or so. Also magnet doesnt stick. I hope its the pedal; like I stated in the original post, shows all the symptoms from what Ive read in the archives. I have to mess w/it for a minute or so (shifting 1 to 2 back and forth BEFORE starting the car) and let the car warm up before getting it into first. Seems to be ok after a few minutes of driving it for the most part. Also I noticed the only way to get it into reverse without it grinding it to put it into first, then neutral, then 'slam' it into reverse. Fluid level looks ok, however thats from looking through the clutch master cylinder. I cant get the top off the c.m.cylinder! It even twisted once while I was trying to take off the top.

Maybe you already tried this for the master cyl. fill cap, but I had to use one hand to hold the master cyl. from turning and use the other hand to twist the cap off.

quote Originally posted by jelly2m8: Its not the pedal itself that bends, its the U shaped part of it up under the dash.

Jelly has all the other facts correct too.

I have pics of just about anything important on a Fiero.

Here is a pic of a bent pedal.

Here is a pic of a non bent pedal.

Archie

I had a problem with the clutch not fully disengaging also. Car did this from the get go when I bought it in early September. I remember my 86SEV6 being a little cranky sometimes too. Especially when cold.
I was able to get the cap off of the reservoir using 1/4 inch masking tape. Don't laugh, it worked. I didn't want to spin the reservoir off of the master cyclinder and this was the only way to hold the reservoir still while I twisted the cap off. It's easier than squeezing both hands onto something that small. Duct tape would work better. Didn't have any and this method works.
Fluid looked gray and cloudy.

On Sunday of this week it was almost impossible to get into first when cold, and difficult to shift into all the other gears. Didn't get much better after it warmed up.
I attempted to bleed the system and the nastiest motor oil looking fluid seeped out of the bleeder. Clutch fell all the way to the floor like it had been shot or something and was completely useless.

I yanked the Master out of there and changed it with a rebuilt. The next 4 hours were spent trying to bleed the system. NO luck. Still dead pedal. Ordered a new master from the dealer and it showed up less than a day later and took 20 minutes to bleed. Was $30 more than the POS rebuilt. Works great.
All of my problems with a clutch that was not disengaging completely were solved. Do not buy a rebuilt master cylinder. I repeat....DO NOT BUY A REBUILT!!.
Hope this helps

Sly

Clutch pedal only runs around 20 dollars from GM parts direct. I will go on an order one anyway for such a cheap price and an obvious necessity; if it turns out not to be bent now, Im sure it will in the future.
Does anyone have the GM part # for a GM clutch master cylinder? Thank you.

*bump* (for master cylinder part #)

1986 clutch master cyl: cast iron w/pipe attached behind resevoir = #10142033, OR
tube body w/ pipe attach in front of resevoir = #10079730.