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Sunroof drain holes... What size??? by Jncomutt
Started on: 12-12-2001 07:32 PM
Replies: 11
Last post by: Jncomutt on 12-16-2001 11:24 PM
Jncomutt
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Report this Post12-12-2001 07:32 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JncomuttSend a Private Message to JncomuttDirect Link to This Post
Ok, I am about to drill the holes in the 4 corners of the sunroof so I can finnaly get around to replacing my headliner. The problem is, while I was reading through my search results, I came across 1/8th, 1/4th and 1/2" size holes.

Whats the best size to drill and anyone have expierieces with holes too big/small???

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kiteman
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Report this Post12-12-2001 08:17 PM Click Here to See the Profile for kitemanSend a Private Message to kitemanDirect Link to This Post
I drilled 1/4" holes, and they work fine. We've had several heavy rainstorms since I replaced the gasket and drilled the holes and I have not had any water inside.

They do not show (drill them close to the inner radius at the bends). Be careful to just drill through the shell, and not deeper. You don't want to damage the drain channels underneath.

When I was doing this job someone was nice enough to send a scan of a diagram showing the exact locations of the holes. You may be able to find it in the threads.

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RedGTFieroKCMO
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Report this Post12-13-2001 12:56 AM Click Here to See the Profile for RedGTFieroKCMOSend a Private Message to RedGTFieroKCMODirect Link to This Post
Wierd. I just did my drilling tonite. I just bought the car so this is my first experience with a wet lap & seat. I got in my car this morning and turned the corner of my driveway backing out and Wham!! All this cold wet water just poured all over me and the seat.

I drilled several holes on each side and kinda rubbed the drill bit against the sides of the new holes. It helped to make the holes bigger cause sand and dirt will quickly plug them up. As I removed the new rubber seal. I watched the water as I drilled. Depending on how quickly the water drained and any was left standing, determined the locations for my drilling. This worked great.

OOHHH!! Found another great thing for my sunroof glass. Remember the round bolts that have the metal tabs? Well the rubber was rotted and they whistled on the highway. So I went to Home Depot to the plumbing department and bought the toilet water tank rubber screw seals. These are about the perfect size and they seem to fit really snug. I'll report back on how they perform. Just thought I would give a good tip to try!!!!!!

Thanks,

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JohnF
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From: Redeye's Ride is from D/FW, Tx.
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Report this Post12-13-2001 08:04 AM Click Here to See the Profile for JohnFSend a Private Message to JohnFDirect Link to This Post
BTW - MOST sunroof hardware is still available from GM. A complete hardware replacement job takes less than 30 minutes and cost about $10. Only parts not available are GM parts 20594101 and 204294621 which are the 2 metallic tabs located at the front of the Vista vent as they call it.

Since I have replaced all the obtainalb parts, I have completely stopped any water entry in my '88.

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You can have all the SPEED you can afford!

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Jncomutt
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Report this Post12-13-2001 04:36 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JncomuttSend a Private Message to JncomuttDirect Link to This Post
nevermind, I figured it out...

[This message has been edited by Jncomutt (edited 12-13-2001).]

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FieroJoe
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Report this Post12-14-2001 10:34 AM Click Here to See the Profile for FieroJoeSend a Private Message to FieroJoeDirect Link to This Post
I am confused on whether people are drilling through the gasket AND the fiberglass, or just pulling up the gasket and drilling a hole in the fiberglass. I only drilled holes in the fiberglass, and I have gotten a wet seat and headliner. I noticed that right at the rear corners the water pools up and can seep through the sunroof-gasket seal (becuase there is not much force from the hinges to hold it down tight)

So, if I poke holes in the gasket, the water will run down and pool in the little channel and then run through my hole, down the body and out to the ground, correct?

Also, I packed all the bolt holes for the tabs and the hinges with silicone to seal them up. They dont leak, just the corners of the glass.

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mbramble
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Report this Post12-14-2001 06:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for mbrambleSend a Private Message to mbrambleDirect Link to This Post
Holes are drilled thru the fiberglass roof panel only, not thru the gasket.
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cadaver
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Report this Post12-16-2001 08:14 PM Click Here to See the Profile for cadaverSend a Private Message to cadaverDirect Link to This Post
If water is pooling and getting under the gasket then it is bad or needs shimming. GM had plastic shims under the latcg to tighten the glass toi gasket contact
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cadaver
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Report this Post12-16-2001 08:17 PM Click Here to See the Profile for cadaverSend a Private Message to cadaverDirect Link to This Post

cadaver

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opps and I drilled 1/2 in all four corners
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FieroJoe
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Report this Post12-16-2001 09:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FieroJoeSend a Private Message to FieroJoeDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by cadaver:
If water is pooling and getting under the gasket then it is bad or needs shimming. GM had plastic shims under the latcg to tighten the glass toi gasket contact

The gasket is a brand new GM part. I have 3 shims under my latch, it pulls down very tight! I will have to try to shim up the gasket to make a better seal, I suppose. Or, glue some rubber to the corner of the glass itself to make a better seal.

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West Coast Fiero
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Report this Post12-16-2001 10:05 PM Click Here to See the Profile for West Coast FieroClick Here to visit West Coast Fiero's HomePageSend a Private Message to West Coast FieroDirect Link to This Post
perhaps this will help:

Vista Vent Water Leaks

Number 86-10-1 Date 1/86

Subject: VISTA VENT WATER LEAKS

1984-86 FIERO (WITH AD3)
Conditions, which contribute to water leaks on 1984 to 1986 Fiero vista vents, can be repaired by adding drainage holes to the plastic roof outer panel and replacement of hardware nuts at the hinge and latch locations on the glass panel..

This bulletin contains procedures for the addition of holes to the plastic roof outer panel, description and part numbers of new hardware nuts as well as proper sealing patterns for weatherstrips (if weatherstrip replacement is necessary).

The addition of holes provides a water drain system and are to be drilled through the Plastic Roof Outer Panel Only. The holes are to be located in all four (4) corners of the weatherstrip mounting area. Figure 1 shows the location of the holes with the weatherstrip removed for illustrative purposes.

The recommended procedure for adding holes to the roof outer panel is as follows:

1. Remove the vista vent glass assembly from the vehicle and place on a clean work surface.

2. During the following drilling operations, it will be necessary to hold the weatherstrip out of the way to prevent damage. Using an electric drill motor and 3/16" drill bit, drill one hole (through the plastic roof outer panel only) in each corner of the weatherstrip cavity as shown in Figure 1, view A.

3. Reinstall the vista vent glass assembly to the vehicle and water test to insure an acceptable repair.

4. After water testing, remove the vista vent glass assembly and dry the roof inner panel by blowing compressed air through the holes in the roof outer panel. Apply a small amount of GM P/N 1052856 anti-corrosion compound (or equivalent) through the holes in the roof outer panel to protect the metal roof inner panel from corrosion caused by damage done during drilling operations.

If water leaks are noted at the hinge and latch locations, a new hardware nut is now available and provides improved appearance and sealing. (Refer to Bulletin 86-10-3.) The new hardware nut has an integral seal and no longer requires the use of bushings (Figure 2).

Due to the lower profile and improved appearance, the new nut should be used in all locations (hinges and latches) when service operations on vista vents are performed.

If the vista vent opening weatherstrip is damaged and requires replacement, it is important that the weatherstrip be properly installed and sealed that the weatherstrip be properly installed and sealed to the retainers and body panels.

The shaded areas shown in Figure 3 (view A and section A-A) show the correct locations and sealing patterns to be used when resealing or replacing weatherstrips. Use 3M 08011 weatherstrip adhesive (or equivalent) when resealing or replacing weatherstrips


------------------

Eric Nelson
Technician,
West Coast Fiero www.cwestco.com
310-305-4111

[This message has been edited by West Coast Fiero (edited 12-16-2001).]

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Jncomutt
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Report this Post12-16-2001 11:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JncomuttSend a Private Message to JncomuttDirect Link to This Post
What are these latch shims people have mentioned?? Are they something you rig up, or something you buy to help out??
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