A quick question: What should the rear wheel bearing/hub nut be torqued to? I've finally gotten around to replacing my roaring rear wheel bearing, but I cannot find the recommended torque for the nut anywhere in my Haynes manual. I guess that's one more reason to buy a factory service manual...
TIA,

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Sean W.
'84 SE, The "Buzz Bomb". (restoration project/daily driver)
'84 SE (Dad's Project)

The Tracer blew its head gasket... BWAHAHAHAHAA... Poor Chris, and we tried to warn him

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'87 Fiero GT ... Cherry Red

If memory serves me, in the Ogre's cave is the answer. I believe it is 70 foot lbs for used nut and 200 footlbs for new nut, of course a new nut is recommended. Check out the Ogre's cave

quote Originally posted by Dan010: 70 foot lbs for used nut

170 ft lbs - we dont want anybody's bearing getting ruined

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Eric Nelson
Technician,
West Coast Fiero
310-305-4111

Haynes stikes again..... 70..... that's the number they list. Thought it seemed pretty bloody low but never got around to checking.

I try to avoid reusing the nut if I can. New ones are fairly cheap.

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11-Sept-01, The day the world as we knew it ended.

200 foot pounds? You guys are kidding right? I've never seen anything torqued like that. How would you do that - stand on the wrench? Do they even have wrenches that go that high? I know it was on there hard.

The 1986 Fiero service manual says 200 ft lbs. It also says not to use the old nut. When I bought my new hubs, new nuts came with them. I cannot find my Haynes book but they also say 200 ft lbs. But it's not on the torque spec page. I remember when I did mine I found it but the spec wasn't where it was suppose to be. If I remember correctly the Haynes says to torque them to 70 then using a steel wheel lower the weight of the car on it and torque to 200. My torque wrench goes to 250lbs so it wasn't a problem setting it but it requires some strong arms to get it to 200!

The initial torque is 70 ft. lbs. Install the wheels, set the car down, set parking brake, remove center cap, FINAL TORQUE to 200 ft. lbs. I forgot to final torque mine(happens when you've torn the WHOLE car apart) and ruined the drivers side after less than 200 miles. Damn, I knew I should have spent the extra $20 for the lifetime bearings, Oh Well.

Banzai !!!!!!!!!

If you have a heavy equipment mechanic in the area(truck, school bus), you may be able to borrow their wrench. They have BIG torque wrenches that don't give you a hernia to turn.

You could tighten yours up good and then gently take it over for the final tweak.
Gary

You can also torque it reasonably accuratly without a torque wrench. If you weigh 200 lbs and stand on a breaker bar 1 foot from the socket end, you've just torqued the nut to 200 ft/lbs. Different weight needs different lengths (100 lbs will need to be 2 feet away). Don't jump up and down on it, just apply the weight.

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Rod Schneider, Woodstock, Ga.
White 88 GT :)

I can just picture a 200 pound person trying to stand on the tip of a wrench.... Of even the lighter person on a longer wrench. Not pretty.

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11-Sept-01, The day the world as we knew it ended.

Torque wrenches can be bought that reach well over the 1000 ft/lbs mark...(no not a typo)

just my 2 cents

Tim

I'm not saying I'd recommend the "Stand on the wrench" method, just offering a last ditch alternative.

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Rod Schneider, Woodstock, Ga.
White 88 GT :)

We ended up using the stand on the torque wrench method, and though admittedly not pretty, it got the job done. Replacing the bearing fixed all the roar, vibration, and occasional clanking noises the car used to make. Of course, now I can hear all the other noises even more, but such is the price of progress...
Thanks for all your help!!

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Sean W.
'84 SE, The "Buzz Bomb". (restoration project/daily driver)
'84 SE (Dad's Project)