Does anyone know an easy method to remove the spring pins from the calipers of the 88 front brakes? The manual suggests a GM special tool. Which I don't have, of course.

But even if I did it wouldn't work because the last person to work on the brakes apparently beat on them with a hammer and the ends are mushroomed. One end looks like it might be coaxed to go through but I can't imagine how I can hammer on it without further mushrooming the end and making it impossible to remove without destroying it.

Which brings me to my next question, since the manual suggests replacing them anyway should I just drill them out and be done with it? Suggestions appreciated. Thanks.

J Scott

Are you talking about the pin's that go through the caliper that hold the pads on? If so, I just used a small punch and a hammer to get them out. I also re-used mine. If that doesnt work and you can find the pins cheap, then just drill them out.

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James Essar
Co-Founder of NEO Fiero Club!
Stock 4, Wanna Race?

Yes, I am talking about the pins that go all the way through the calipers and the brake pads. Mine appear to be jammed in there pretty hard. I tried hammering them out with a punch but they didn't move a bit.

I'm sure I can get a new set at the local parts store, if not, the Fiero Store sells new ones. I just wondered how other 88 owners managed to get them out.

Remember that you have to drive the pins out from BEHIND the caliper (towards you), which makes it a bit awkward in accessing and seeing the ends of the pins.

I use an old drill bit the same size as the pins. Tap on the "pointed end" of the drill bit with a ball peen hammer, with the other end of the bit lined up with and against the pin. Give the pin a good whack with the hammer first to ensure its at least flush with the caliper. The drill bit will easily slide in between the emergency brake bracket. Punches may expand the pin end if they slip, since the pins are hollow, which can make them even harder to remove. If the pin is really stubborn and all else fails, I would just remove the caliper so that it is easier to access the pins.

[This message has been edited by 00lE (edited 02-16-2002).]

Small punch and a hammer.

I have already removed the calipers and there is no way in the world the spring pins are coming out from behind. The spring pin end on the back side has been flattened like a rivet.

Is there any reason they can't be punched through from the front to the back? If there is, then drilling out is my only option.

I think I saw the tool for this at ontool.com

In your case you need new pins... you may have the cut them in the middle and extract the peices or grind/cut away the flaired ends with a dremel tool.

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11-Sept-01, The day the world as we knew it ended.

quote Originally posted by theogre: I think I saw the tool for this at ontool.com In your case you need new pins... you may have the cut them in the middle and extract the peices or grind/cut away the flaired ends with a dremel tool.

Seems like this is the only way. They are VERY, VERY difficult to go front to back.
Cut the pin in the middle and then cut the one to the back side of the caliper so there is not much left to drive out the back. You then should be able to remove the other piece of pin in the correct direction.

Good luck!

OK geniuses, there is a much much easier way.

Remove the 2 bolts in the back of the caliper that hold the 2 halves of the caliper together. Pull the outer half of the caliper off and violà, there are your pins.

Less than 5 min job, no drilling, no punching.

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88GT 5sp, in desperate need of an LT1
http://www.geocities.com/fiero88gt1/

Mine came out real easy...didnt have to take teh caliper off, didnt have to cut anything....or take the caliper apart. I must be lucky!

Faced a similar issue today, but was taking the calipers apart to replace worn out pads anyway. Luckily the new GM pads included new springs...so I didn't need to baby the mushroomed still stuck in the caliper.

I simply found a self tapping screw to screw into each pin, then clamped to a slide hammer. Three wacks and it was out. New ones were installed with a brass punch and a hammer.

Suggestion: Don't try to reuse those things. Buy the GM pads.

All I can say is FM88 was real lucky! I have managed to get one of the 4 pins out!! I used a high speed drill bit and about 100 hits with a hammer and the darn thing finally backed out through the rear. Caliper was removed and C-clamped to the hub so I could get some leverage on it.

There is no way these pins will be reused. It must have taken a hundred hits with the hammer to get them in there in the first place.

Anyway for the cave's benefit, some of you guys underestimate these pins. They are made of hardened steel and are not easily cut or bent. My drill bit flattened more than the pin in pushing the thing out.

Removing the caliper bridge bolts is no picnic either. I couldn't even budge them with my socket wrench and I don't think it would have helped anyway the because the spring pins would still have been wedged in the holes and not let the two halves of the caliper come apart.

It seems the only way to remove stubborn spring pins is to beat on them like crazy with a hammer until they finally let go and pop out.

Thanks for all the help...now only three more to go

[This message has been edited by jscott1 (edited 02-16-2002).]

That sucks you are having all those problems! I dont understand why mine would be soo much easier. You could try some WD40 or something on them too, maybe it would help free them a little. Good luck, hope you get it done soon!

I hammered all the pins out from the back of my calipers without problems.

The pins are held secure at the back of the caliper. At the front, they are only steady. So when you remove them... if they are pounded out from behind... they should come out of the back side of the caliper and then be able to be pulled out of the front.

Mine appeared to be reuseable too, but on the advice of my manual to use new ones, I did just that. No complaints, and brakes have been 100% better since rebuilding the calipers.

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John
AOLIM: Fformula88

1988 Fiero Formula
1985 Fiero SE 2M6
1997 Ford Probe SE (I gotta have a daily driver)

Thanks for all the help on this one. Wouldn't you know that the spring pins on the driver's side popped out easily like everyone said they should. I don't know what happened to the passenger's side to make them so stubborn.

It could be all the rust and corrosion present on any 14 year old car. I didn't mention earlier that I am also replacing the rotors because they were rusted so bad I didn't want to put them back on the car.

SIGH! I have said this over and over again, but here it is again. You do not.....I repeat, do not have to remove the spring pins EVER! Unless they got damaged or are otherwise bent you do not (and should not) have to ever remove them for any reason.

To change pads all you need to do is split the caliper and pop off the outer half. Remove the outer pad and rotor......if the rotor is on there tight then remove the caliper body from the spindle (T-55 torx) and whack the rotor off with a sledge hammer (resurface/replace it, of course). Now you can remove the inner pad.

Nowhere in that procedure do you need to remove the pins. I have owned numerous Fieros, including some 2 dozen '88s, over the past 12 years and I have never removed one single sping pin on the calipers.

Save yourself the hassles and headaches and just avoid this......it is the most unnecessary thing you can do!

quote Originally posted by mrfiero: SIGH! I have said this over and over again, but here it is again. You do not.....I repeat, do not have to remove the spring pins EVER! Unless they got damaged or are otherwise bent you do not (and should not) have to ever remove them for any reason. To change pads all you need to do is split the caliper and pop off the outer half. Remove the outer pad and rotor......if the rotor is on there tight then remove the caliper body from the spindle (T-55 torx) and whack the rotor off with a sledge hammer (resurface/replace it, of course). Now you can remove the inner pad. Nowhere in that procedure do you need to remove the pins. I have owned numerous Fieros, including some 2 dozen '88s, over the past 12 years and I have never removed one single sping pin on the calipers. Save yourself the hassles and headaches and just avoid this......it is the most unnecessary thing you can do!

Hey, the "Search" function worked!! This just answered my question.

I'll try pulling the front of tha caliper off tomorrow, since I couldn't get the pins out like the manual says today.

Question, though. Can you get new springs and pins from somewhere other than the Fiero Store? They want $11 per wheel, and while I'll pay it if I have to, that suggests I should be able to find them for about $5 locally. Any suggestions?

quote Originally posted by Formula88: Hey, the "Search" function worked!! This just answered my question. I'll try pulling the front of tha caliper off tomorrow, since I couldn't get the pins out like the manual says today.

Un;ess the pins got damaged somehow there is never a reason to remove them. Spilt the caliper to remove the pads and rotor and don't even mess with the pins.

quote Question, though. Can you get new springs and pins from somewhere other than the Fiero Store? They want $11 per wheel, and while I'll pay it if I have to, that suggests I should be able to find them for about $5 locally. Any suggestions?

I have no clue where to get new pins at.....try GM (they'll probably be as much or more than the FS).

Again, unless yours are bent or otherwise messed up, you have no reason to remove/replace them.

Good luck.

Once you get them out, throw them away.

Get some long 1/4-20 hex head bolts. I can't remember exactly, but they are about 4-1/2" long. Cut the thread off them so you have a solid 1/4" body with a hex head.

Put the bolt into the caliper from the outside, and mark the bolt where it sticks out on the inside of the caliper. Drill a 1/16" hole in the bolt, and stick an s-clip in there. You could use a small cotter pin, but the s-clip is nice because you can pull it with your fingers, and it's reusable.

Then, when you need to change the pads, you just pull the spring pins, and yank the bolts.

Good luck!

-L
http://members.nccw.net/webe/products - Sequential Turn Signals

I think Autozone has a loaner tool for this... I saw one briefly on a display at a local store.

Lawrence, that sounds like a great idea! Can anyone think of any problems with this? I can't imagine no one has thought of it before. (or me, for that matter )

[This message has been edited by Formula88 (edited 03-10-2002).]

The pins are designed so that the inboard pad can slide in and out with the piston position. Threads might hinder this sliding ability just a bit.. may even cause the inboard pad to become locked against the rotor. I would not suggest re-engineering an OEM system designed to stop a vehicle, the implications are far to great.

OO|E, I think he meant use a bolt with a smooth shank that's only threaded beyond the caliper, then cut the threads off and drill the hole for a spring pin. I'd suggest a stainless steel bolt, too.

Ahh.. I obviously misunderstood. Still, the bores for the two slide pin holes are not exactly the same. One hole is tapered a bit, which is why you remove the pins from the rear. Seems a bit odd that a bolt would work all that well given this fact.

quote Originally posted by mrfiero: SIGH! I have said this over and over again, but here it is again. You do not.....I repeat, do not have to remove the spring pins EVER! Unless they got damaged or are otherwise bent you do not (and should not) have to ever remove them for any reason. To change pads all you need to do is split the caliper and pop off the outer half. Remove the outer pad and rotor......if the rotor is on there tight then remove the caliper body from the spindle (T-55 torx) and whack the rotor off with a sledge hammer (resurface/replace it, of course). Now you can remove the inner pad. Nowhere in that procedure do you need to remove the pins. I have owned numerous Fieros, including some 2 dozen '88s, over the past 12 years and I have never removed one single sping pin on the calipers. Save yourself the hassles and headaches and just avoid this......it is the most unnecessary thing you can do!

Major Kudos! I split the caliper bridge as you suggested. MAN, that was easy! I'm doing it that way from now on!

Any secret suggestions/hints for the rear brakes to make them easier? I don't have a special tool to screw in the rotors, but I've heard you don't have to screw them in, if you disconnect the parking brake first. Whaddya think? I'll probably tackle them later, though. Too nice a day not to drive around some.

Thanks again! Man, this Forum ROCKS!!

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"I look up at the moon and wonder when we will be going back, and who will that be?" - Jim Lovell, Commander Apollo 13

quote Originally posted by Formula88: Major Kudos! I split the caliper bridge as you suggested. MAN, that was easy! I'm doing it that way from now on!

This is the way I have been doing my brakes since 1990......I can't imagine people screwing with those stupid slide pins!

quote Any secret suggestions/hints for the rear brakes to make them easier? I don't have a special tool to screw in the rotors, but I've heard you don't have to screw them in, if you disconnect the parking brake first. Whaddya think? I'll probably tackle them later, though. Too nice a day not to drive around some.

The rears aren't a whole lot harder than the fronts. You obviously have to pop off the e-brake tensioner spring, but that's not too difficult. Once it is out of the way the procedure is the same. Split the caliper, remove outer pad, remove rotor and remove inner pad. Again, you might have to remove the caliper from the spindle to get the rotor off (whacking it with a hammer).

I would suggest going to Auto Zone or some other parts place and get one of those tools to screw in the pistons. I have done the loosen the nut and push in the piston method before and didn't like messing with the caliper like that. You might not get it tight enough or you might overtighten it causing a potential problem (fluid leak, etc.).

Either way just take your time......it's not a hard job to do.

quote Thanks again! Man, this Forum [b]ROCKS!! [/B]

No problem......glad my experiences actually helped someone!

Yes, I meant to use only the smooth body of the bolt. For that matter, you can just use 1/4" rod, and drill the small holes on each end for the spring clips. I did use stainless steel bolts, which were a little pricey.

For those of you who do the split caliper trick, that's a good idea. However, you do need to get behind the caliper to remove those large bolts. Then, you need to torque them down to 75 ft-lbs when you are finished. Certainly possible (as you are all a tesimony), but may be tough to get at.

If you remove the spring pins and replace them with a modified bolt or rod, you NEVER have to take the caliper apart. You just pull the pins, slide the rods out, and the pads come out the top. You don't have any hard wrenching to do -- it's all done with your bare hands.

Good luck,

-L
http://members.nccw.net/webe/products - Daytime Running Lights

You don't want to mess with the spring pins if you can avoid it. I was not able to find them anywhere except the Fiero Store and they are expensive.

Autozone, NAPA etc didn't even know what I was talking about. The Pontiac Parts guy at the dealer knew about them but couldn't get them anymore.

So do yourself a favor and split the caliper, I know I will. But you better have a good socket wrench if those caliper bridge bolts are on there as tight as mine. They are going to be difficult to break free as well.