I've seen at least two SBC V-8 Fieros with the filler neck and radiator cap relocated to the top center of the trunk side firewall. I like it, because it gives you a new "highest point" for filling the coolant system that is easily accessible. Does anyone know where the parts to do this can be purchased?

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Tom Corey
87 Green TTop GT 5Spd V8
88 Yellow TTop GT (At Ed Park's for the 4.9 Caddy Install)

Moroso.

Do you know a part number? I've looked at Moroso in Summit, but have not seen the part.

quote Originally posted by HarryG: Moroso.

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Tom Corey
87 Green TTop GT 5Spd V8
88 Yellow TTop GT (At Ed Park's for the 4.9 Caddy Install)

My catalog is at home. Can check tonight, but won't be online again until tomorrow.
The one you want has the filler in the center and slips into the hose at each end?

Yes, that's it!!

quote Originally posted by HarryG: My catalog is at home. Can check tonight, but won't be online again until tomorrow. The one you want has the filler in the center and slips into the hose at each end?

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Tom Corey
87 Green TTop GT 5Spd V8
88 Yellow TTop GT (At Ed Park's for the 4.9 Caddy Install)

quote Originally posted by Tom Corey: I've seen at least two SBC V-8 Fieros with the filler neck and radiator cap relocated to the top center of the trunk side firewall. I like it, because it gives you a new "highest point" for filling the coolant system that is easily accessible. Does anyone know where the parts to do this can be purchased?

If you are doing this to help with bleeding the system, this is a bad idea Tom. Way too much typing to explain it all here. Give me a call at the shop and I'll explain.

Archie

Tom,
Were the SBC Fieros using LT1's by any chance? The LT1 steam lines which exit the heads are routed thru a surge tank. It has a filler cap and can be used as you described.

Check Jeg's or any hotrodder supply site for stock or custom surge tanks. Stock is usually for Corvettes, which have no filler cap on the radiator. Custom can get real nice with billet, polished, horizontal, vertical....

And there is allways the simple inline pipe with either a filler cap or drain valve provision.

David Breeze

I use this one, but you may need a larger one, depending on the size of your coolant hose:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=24458',650,505,'MOR63745

Tom,
Moroso part nos.:
(Radiator Hose Fillers)
63730, 1-1/2 to 1-1/2
63740, 1-1/2 to 1-1/4
63745, 1-1/4 to 1-1/4

These are listed in Jeg's catalog. 1-800-345-4545

After you talk with Archie, maybe you could give us the condensed version of why he thinks it's a bad idea?

I'm using a thermostat housing with a cap on it and having trouble with it leaking. I would also like to hear what Archie has to say on this subject. Thanks Gary

I've used those Moroso fill necks on at every Fiero swap I've done and I have never had a problem. The key to making it work is to block off the overflow outlet and use a high pressure cap. If the cap on the rear is 29 psi and the front is 15 psi, the coolant will always purge out the front and into the bottle. As the engine cools, it will draw coolant (or air) back into the system through the path of least resistance. If the overflow tube on the rear filler isn't sealed shut, it will draw air into the system there and you'll have problems. You can't just put an overflow tank on both ends, because there is the possibility of pushing coolant out one end when hot and drawing it in at the other when it cools. Eventually one bottle would be empty and the other would overflow.

Moroso makes high pressure caps to go with the fillers.
63320 19-21 lb
63324 23-25 lb
63328 27-29 lb

I've used them with several 3800 and V8 swaps and never a problem.

Thanks for the info rockcrawl, I have the overflow tube blocked off but was using a 16# cap. So I will go with the 29#, I'm using a 13# on the radiator just to make sure that's where the water comes out. Don't need it running out all over my new engine. Thanks again, Gary

OK,I've talked with Archie. He's had several calls today about this same issue and he asked me to try to put the answer on the forum. So here is what I heard him tell me: This is a bad idea if you are looking to bleed the system at this position. Of primary concern is the fact that air bubbles have two paths to take instead of one from the tee and that means you really wont't get all the air out of the system when you fill/bleed at one of these Tees. Additionally, when you shut down the engine and the engine and its internal water temp rises another 20 degrees or so, the steam (air bubbles)will collect at the highest point (the new radiator cap on this tee)in the system and will eventually blow the radiator cap on the tee. I would also think (my comment here, not Archie's) that with the thermostat in the same line you won't be sure you have completely filled the system either unless the thermostat is open, which you can't be sure of. So the best solution remains filling the cooling system at the inlet hose/gooseneck with the thermostat removed. That way the water is going in one end of te system and air is being forced out at the other end. However, Archie did say its possible to make this work if you are VERY patient about bleeding the system and use an expansion tank in conjunction with the tee (and remove the front expansion tank)

quote Originally posted by HarryG: Tom, After you talk with Archie, maybe you could give us the condensed version of why he thinks it's a bad idea?

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Tom Corey
87 Green TTop GT 5Spd V8
88 Yellow TTop GT (At Ed Park's for the 4.9 Caddy Install)

Have not run into any problems at all yet, but I will be sure to keep an eye out..

I use a stant high pressure lever cap and a section of high temp/pressure 3/8" ID line on the overflow fitting, attached with a stainless clamp. The other end of the line is sealed with the appropriate sized plug also using a stainless clamp. No leaks at all there, and all the overflow ends up in the front tank where it belongs.
The thermostat in my case is ~10" upwind of this whole arrangement, and about 2" lower than the filling point. As long as the thermostat is closed it is actually quite ease to fill, no overheating problems at all so far.
I did use an immediate 90 degree bend at the radiator side of the filler, so any excess air space ends up in the sharp sloping section between the filler and the coolant tube connection near the rear wheel well. If it were not for this 90 degree down bend, I could see how one might encounter some problems, so the plumbing design is also important.
This is on a 3100 SFI swap, but I am sure the V8 could be done in a similar fashion. Here is a pic during installation, right before the PCM was mounted to the firewall:

Note the slightly modified 88 4cyl coolant hose..

[This message has been edited by 00lE (edited 07-18-2002).]