Ok, replaced the MAster Cyclinder and then blew the right rear brake line right at the T fitting.. The part that broke was the long line heading to the front of the car..

Of course, it's rusted pretty bad.. Any advice for breaking this thing loose?? I'd hate to have to replace the other two lines just because I can't get the thing apart..

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I just dealt with a similar situation on an '85 - sounds like the same place, too!

Before you ruin the hex nut on the brake line, cut the brake line that is "bad" close to the hex nut. Get yourself a breaker bar/flex handle/johnson bar (people call these things all sorts of names) with the correct socket to attach to that brake fitting you just cut the line on. The next thing you will want to do is make sure that t-fitting is held SECURELY (that one little bolt that holds it down isn't enough - I used a pair of vice grips and one hand to hold it).

Once you're satisfied, lean into your long handle, and it should come loose.

Your next obstacle is you'll find it's next to impossible to get metric brake line that has that large brake fitting. What I've done is purchased two fittings that are adapters - they fit the t-fitting as they should, but the back of it is the adapter - it adapts to regular 3/16 SAE brake line. 3/16 brake line is just a hair smaller than the metric line that runs the length of the car.

I haven't completed replacing the brake line on my car just yet due to being sick this weekend. Should be able to get to it sometime this week...

one other thing you can try is to heat the fitting up with a propane torch (don't try to melt it, just warm it) and then touch a candle to it. the wax will melt onto the fitting and wick its way up around the threads and line. while it is still warm (the wax is still liquid) try to loosen.

a little trick i picked up that was very helpful in getting pipe plugs unstuck in engine blocks. it works for many other things.

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Fiero-related Conversions Performed:

1985 SE 3800 Series 1 SC 4T60-E
1987 Coupe 3800 Series II Turbocharged 4T60-E
1987 SE 3.4 TDC 5-speed
1984 Coupe SBC V8 non-OD to 4T60 OD swap, electric power steering install
1985 SE 3800 Series II Supercharged 4T60-E

http://dtcc.cz28.com

I also just finished replacing that line but I went a little further. You should realize that all your steel lines are probably iffy by now. Check out the inline tube website, they make replacement lines for all Fieros. Its the way to go for peace of mind. I replaced all the steel lines on my car. Ummmm feels good.

Could you post a link to the site?

Anyone know the size of that brake line fitting? Is it metric or standard. I'm wanting to install the braided brake lines and don't want to round off the nut. Going to buy correct wrench once i know the correct size. Thanks Gary

All of the brake fittings on the Fiero are metric. Unfortunately, you may have difficulty sourcing the larger fittings, and the slightly larger brake line those larger metric fittings secure. The line is metric, too, and is slightly larger than 3/16. I live in an area where parts are plentiful, and anything is easy to get. I found I couldn't purchase the larger fittings, or that larger metric brake line.

Instead, I was able to get the metric to SAE adapters - this is the larger fitting you need, but it has threads in it that accept 3/16 SAE line with the appropriate SAE fitting.

I haven't performed the repair yet (I've got two other cars, so I'm in no hurry), but I just visited that web site mentioned above - Inline Tube is as www.inlinetube.com - seems like a worthwhile investment, even for Canadians.

On the inlinetube.com site, there was the following tip:

"Tips For a Perfect Flare - When flaring tube it is important to read all the instructions carefully. Before you flair the tube, deburr and chamfer both edges of the tube, this allows the tube to roll over and create a smooth edge. To deburr the inside edge use a drill or file and rotate the file in the opening of the tube, the outside edge can be done with a standard file. Tube cracking is caused when the tube is not properly deburred. Do not cut tube with a tube cutter. The cutter when dull, hardens the end of the tube, causing flaring to be very difficult. Flaring tube takes practice and an understanding of how the tools works. Once the practice is put in the understanding will come."

Now, I've flared line before, but what is news to me is when they say "Don't cut with a tube cutter." If you're not supposed to cut brake line with a tube cutter, what on earth DO you use?

quote Originally posted by Lambykin: Now, I've flared line before, but what is news to me is when they say "Don't cut with a tube cutter." If you're not supposed to cut brake line with a tube cutter, what on earth DO you use?

Hacksaw

I've used a tubing cutter for years and never once had a problem with the line cracking. But, I do replace my cutter disk periodically, so I suppose I'm doing preventive maintenance......

I've used brake line fittings from NAPA before, and they have a drawer full of different diameters and threads (metric and standard) and I've never had a problem finding a fitting that will work. But, I've never done any brake line work on a Fiero. Has anyone tried NAPA for fittings?

Just a thought......

Mark the brake guy

That was my first visit - to NAPA. They didn't have the fitting I needed to fit onto the metric line on the vehicle, but they were the ones who had a fitting that was an adapter. It'll work for me...

The same brake line went on my '84. I tried the following to find the large ~6 mm metric fitting to fab my own line.

NAPA
Autozone
Pepboys
O'Reilly's
Carquest
All over the internet

Believe me the large metric fitting for the front to rear line is impossible to find.

I finally salvaged a used brake line from a junker. This year I'm going to replace all the steel lines with new ones from Inline. That will also let me replace the front hoses which are basically rust welded to the brake lines.

I realize that the line kit from Inline tube seems pricey at first, but it eliminates all the fuss about finding fittings and flaring tubes. The lines are completely built and are an exact fit, even look exactly like the oem lines. Its the way to go.

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[This message has been edited by Challe (edited 06-26-2003).]

I don't disagree - the lines sold at InlineTube look pretty impressive on their site.

However, for those of us who have other financial obligations, $180 (for their stainless steel line) is high when you compare it to doing it yourself for $30 to $40 when you purchase just the materials (I already own the tools).

One day I most likely will get the stainless steel lines and bolt them into place.

Ok, one week later and the fittings are all junk it appears.. I can not get any of them apart short of break all the lines and putting the block in a vise.. Which of course leaves me with broken lines and crunched fittings..

So, I'm thinking about just yanking all of the lines and starting over from scratch.. The only time I've ever done brake lines was on a stock car and on my '65 during the restoration process (no body on it)..

How much work am I looking at if I try to do a complete line swap?? Considering I really don't want to pull the body

Another follow up -

After much fire/swearing/burning of the hand and smashed finger - I got the thing apart..

I cobbled up a group of adapters to run the block down to 3/16 line, but now I need to splice the 3/16 to the original metric line which apparently sits between 3/16 and 1/4..

Any suggestions??

I JUST finished doing the same thing you did a few days ago (I was sick for a week, and my repair was on hold). I didn't bother with splicing new line into the old - I knew I'd run into problems.

I went the extra mile and bought 25 feet of 3/16 line, a couple of fittings, and a couple of those metric to SAE brake fitting adapters. The job was an easy one - most of my time was spent bending the old line to match the countour of the old one I had completely removed from the car.

All in all, I'd say that the Fiero is pretty easy when it comes to removing and replacing deteriorated brake lines. Not all cars are this easy...

In a year or two I'll probably end up replacing all of the steel brake lines with the stainless steel set Inline Tube offers. But for now, the cheap fix will work.

Word of warning, though....once you have the line all in, you'll obviously have to bleed the brake system. Don't be surprised if you snap the nipples from the rear calipers. While I've got good brake line again, I'm now stuck with a couple of calipers that have the bleeders broken off. I even tried heat & soaking them in penetrating oil beforehand, and nothing worked. I already tried to drill one caliper, but I think I was a little off with the angle - I think one caliper is officially ruined. I've got spares, but the nipples on them broke as well. I may be faced with having to replace the calipers.

Inline tube is at: http://www.inlinetube.com/table_of_contents.htm

I'm heading over to the machine shop tomorrow.. My dad has a full on machine shop in his factory and I'm planning to go there and just make the fitting I need

I plan to do a full build on the fiero in the future, but I really don't want to dump a lot of money into it until I get my '65 on the road and rolling..

I'll let you know how it goes..

You've got a machine shop at your disposal, and you're asking for suggestions???

Shouldn't be too hard for you to make something up - good luck (wish I had a machine shop to make use of!).

I can't believe that nobody suggested you soak the fitting in PbBlaster overnight. Best stuff I've used to penetrate rust. Try it before you tear it up so bad you CAN'T get it off. Good luck!

Phil

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87 FIERO GT 2.8 5spd
0-60 in 6.8 seconds!
87 FIERO CPE 2.5 5spd
86 FIERO SE 2.5 AUTO
87 FIERO GT 2.8 4SPD
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