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Primed the motor with oil pump and drill. Got a concern now... by SCCA FIERO
Started on: 07-18-2003 11:03 PM
Replies: 9
Last post by: maryjane on 07-21-2003 12:32 AM
SCCA FIERO
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Report this Post07-18-2003 11:03 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SCCA FIEROSend a Private Message to SCCA FIERODirect Link to This Post
New motor with Melling high volume oil pump. The last motor I did this to would spill oil out of the distributor hole when I spun the stock pump with a drill. This one just has a small flow, not even close to spilling out.

I am going to use my bigger drill tomorrow and see what happens.

Should I be worried?

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Report this Post07-19-2003 10:11 AM Click Here to See the Profile for avengador1Send a Private Message to avengador1Direct Link to This Post
I primed my engine by hand, using an extension, a socket, and a rachet drive. As long as you hear the oil going back into the pan and can feel some resistance, you should be alright. I have a high volume oil pump in mine.
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vortecfiero
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Report this Post07-19-2003 05:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for vortecfieroClick Here to visit vortecfiero's HomePageSend a Private Message to vortecfieroDirect Link to This Post
I prime my engine every spring...
never had oil come out of the dist hole on any of them...
I just make sure the rockers are getting oiled an the psi light goes out

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Blacktree
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Report this Post07-19-2003 06:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BlacktreeClick Here to visit Blacktree's HomePageSend a Private Message to BlacktreeDirect Link to This Post
If you have a helper, have the helper sit in the driver's seat with the key in the run position while you run the drill. Have your helper watch the oil pressure gauge and call out PSI readings.
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SCCA FIERO
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Report this Post07-19-2003 11:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SCCA FIEROSend a Private Message to SCCA FIERODirect Link to This Post
The motor was on the cradle, about 6 feet behind the car. Well, it was, now it's installed. I plan to spin it with the key on tomorrow and watch the oil pressure.

Thanx.

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Oreif
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Report this Post07-20-2003 11:12 AM Click Here to See the Profile for OreifClick Here to visit Oreif's HomePageSend a Private Message to OreifDirect Link to This Post
I did mine with a speed handle and a socket. I also hooked up a mechanical pressure gauge I had laying around the garage. I'm using a GM performance parts hi-vol oil pump. Using 10W-40 oil I was able to get it to slowly pour out the distributor port. It did take a while to fill up everything before it started to flow.

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Will
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Report this Post07-20-2003 06:30 PM Click Here to See the Profile for WillSend a Private Message to WillDirect Link to This Post
Take the valve covers off and spin the pump until you see oil at the top of EVERY pushrod. That's when the engine is properly primed.

New engine or just been sitting for a while?

If it's a used engine that's been sitting, pour a teaspoon of auto trans fluid into each cylinder and roll the engine over a few revolutions by hand.

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LS1swap
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Report this Post07-20-2003 06:52 PM Click Here to See the Profile for LS1swapClick Here to visit LS1swap's HomePageSend a Private Message to LS1swapDirect Link to This Post
Just unplug the orange wire to the ECM and crank it over with the plugs out. When you see pressure you should be fine. But remember the fuel pump will turn on as soon as there is pressure so be sure to plug it or hook up the lines to the rail

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SCCA FIERO
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Report this Post07-20-2003 08:54 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SCCA FIEROSend a Private Message to SCCA FIERODirect Link to This Post
I started my new motor today. It fired right up, but sounded like it has a miss. After about 1 minute I noticed the cold start injector tube was leaking. I turned the car off and also noticed a coolant leak.

After I pulled the intake to install a new o-ring for the injector tube, I noticed my head studs had coolant coming out between the stud and nut. I used black RTV to seal the threads of the studs where they screw into the block. Was I supposed to seal the nuts too? The instructions were very clear on using lubricant on the washers, nuts and studs for accurate torque readings, but said nothing about sealant for the nuts.

This is bad.


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maryjane
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Report this Post07-21-2003 12:32 AM Click Here to See the Profile for maryjaneSend a Private Message to maryjaneDirect Link to This Post
There shouldn't be any coolant around the studs, if the threads are sealed good. I don't think sealing the nuts and washers will help either, in the long long term. Something's amiss. Hairline crack around the threaded hole is a fairly common cause. Good luck.
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