Alright, I wanted to start work on repainting my interior and decided to give krylon fusion a shot, gloss black. I washed my first panel, the one behind the door on the passenger side, then went over it with acetone, then a coat of the new fusion paint, it worked good, and has been sitting for a few days curing, and is a beautiful job. Now I went to work on my center console yesterday, took it apart, and washed everything with a soapy bath, seeing the main part of the console is cloth inside, I only wiped the surface down with water and soap. My dad said to not use acetone on it, because it would destroy it (shouldn't have listened) Went into my garage, and began to spray it, the paint went onto some areas all nice and fine, but in some areas it blotched horribly, and left pits where the paint litterally never stuck, and actually moved away from it when I sprayed over it. I taled to Phil* in chat about it, and said to go back over it with acetone, I did today, and I stripped most of the paint in the bad areas, and resprayed. IT DID IT AGAIN!!! So now my center console has black paint on it, that won't stick in areas, and looks like a reversed grey zebra Anyone know what happened? Also do you think it would be possible for me to get brand new black vinyl from some store, wide enough, and actually recover the vinyl parts in the car to look like it was done in the factory, has anyone ever used vinyl do do this?
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Sorry no help for you. I jsut wanted to say I painted a few pieces of my trim black. I used some stuff I picked up from crayyp T that said it was for interiour trim. I just wiped down the trim an applied it. Came out perfect and is still holding up after several months.
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03:40 PM
My7Fieros Member
Posts: 3357 From: Germantown, TN Registered: Jun 2000
Been there, done that. Hit it again with acetone. Then, scrub it good with a scotch-brite pad (those green ones that come in packs at WalMart do great). Dont worry about 'scratching' it...itll be fine. Go over all the bad parts generously with that scotch brite pad. Then acetone again just prior to painting. The problem is that years and years of oils and what not on the surface are making the paint 'fish eye'. It wasnt that bad on the first piece you painted because it gets little (if any) human contact. The center console has had almost 20 years of daily touch. Paint wont stick. Dont be in a rush, remember just like painting the exterior of a car, prep work is the most important job. Be patient and hit it good with the scotch brite and then acetone. Also, apply several LIGHT coats of paint, and give it a few minutes or so at least between each spray. Dont just glob it on. It not only makes the final product come out better, but it shows were the paint will want to fish eye, and make it easier to fix before spraying again. Do all this and itll come out looking great!
[This message has been edited by My7Fieros (edited 01-05-2004).]
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04:01 PM
NotAFieroAnyLonger Member
Posts: 4413 From: 75762/Texas/USA Registered: Dec 2003
Been there, done that. Hit it again with acetone. Then, scrub it good with a scotch-brite pad (those green ones that come in packs at WalMart do great). Dont worry about 'scratching' it...itll be fine. Go over all the bad parts generously with that scotch brite pad. Then acetone again just prior to painting. The problem is that years and years of oils and what not on the surface are making the paint 'fish eye'. It wasnt that bad on the first piece you painted because it gets little (if any) human contact. The center console has had almost 20 years of daily touch. Paint wont stick. Dont be in a rush, remember just like painting the exterior of a car, prep work is the most important job. Be patient and hit it good with the scotch brite and then acetone. Also, apply several LIGHT coats of paint, and give it a few minutes or so at least between each spray. Dont just glob it on. It not only makes the final product come out better, but it shows were the paint will want to fish eye, and make it easier to fix before spraying again. Do all this and itll come out looking great!
Good advice so far. I've had to re-do some interior parts too and in cases where interior parts have had Armor All type stuff on them for years, I usually use some strong soap (like tire cleaner- Bleach White works great) and scrub the parts with the soap and Scotch Brite pad or tire brush. Wash the parts at least twice with the cleaner and give it plenty of time to dry. You should also use an automotive refinishers grade cleaner too- it goes by different names but it smells like lighter fluid. Wipe it on with a towel soaked with the cleaner, let it sit for a few seconds and then wipe it dry with another towel.
Thanks guys, maybe I should try my luck at getting new vinyl, and redoing the vinyl black, so it actually doesn't rub off eventually. I'll make a new thread on the vinyl aspect.
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12:12 AM
Master Tuner Akimoto Member
Posts: 2267 From: South Florida,USA Registered: Jul 2003
When I spray, I use 99% Alcohol..while cleaning put paint can in front of heater, or shop lamp..Let it get hot to the can, but not explode. When the paint is warm, and the surface if clean, I just apply a light coat, holding the can about a foot away form the part. It sounds like a waist as only a fine mist covers the surface, but if you let it dry, then hit it with another light spray, the part will be ready for a nice close up!..
The trick is to not get in a rush and try to cover the hole part all at once. Use light steps, then one close up final coat.
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02:22 AM
GSXRBOBBY Member
Posts: 3122 From: Southern Indiana USA Registered: Aug 2003
Ive done vinal on several of my cars. its pretty easy but takes time. most fabrick or apolstry shops can get it for you and match it to about anything. for the center console i used a stable gun..(make sure the staples do not go all the way threw the consol) some good quality spray glue. and either a good hair dryer or a heat gun. gut it so it wraps all the way around the consol, its easier to cut than add more. start on one end with a little spray glue and some stables to hold it ferm. then you will need to spray the consol and heat and stretch the vinal over the conol till it lays smooth. do not over heat this may take a few min and you will have to add glue a little at a time till you get all the way round. when you get the way you want rune a line of staples on the under side vinal. cut off the excess and use a little super glue or rubber cement on the edges.it takes time and patience and might even take more than one attempt to get it the way you want but mine has been done for almost a year and it still looks factory.
LOL, you guys crack me up. You use a stable gun with stables to fasten vinal, (joke) It is recommended to use staples with vinyl though
I redid my center console in the Ferraro with black naugahide, pretty ez job. I never use any of those miracles like Armor All. I just keep stuff clean, I dont care for glossy stuff in the interior.
[This message has been edited by rogergarrison (edited 01-07-2004).]
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01:53 PM
ezramore Member
Posts: 338 From: colorado springs co Registered: Oct 2003
Dont take offense, I misspell a lot too. I was just makin fun. I dont give a hoot about peoples grammar and spelling here. We usually can figure out whats said, and thats the important part.
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08:25 PM
BtotheB Member
Posts: 2581 From: Peterborough, Ontario Registered: Dec 2001
I just finished painting my interior with Krylon Fusion. I had the same problem as you in a few spots, but I found I could avoid those pits if I sprayed in small coats. It left the pits especially with the black, but take the extra time to spray it good and slow and you won't have to worry about cleaning it like crazy.
Another thing to think about is using a clear coat, I painted my door handles black, but no matter what they'd turn out kinda sticky. I used some interior clear coat also from Krylon that worked really well.
Brad
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09:06 PM
DustoneGT Member
Posts: 1274 From: The U.S. Superstate Registered: Dec 2002
It fish-eyes really bad on all of the parts. After a bunch of coats, the fish eyes disappear and level out. I finally finished one part, and it looks good, just lots of coats.
------------------ May those that love us love us. For those who don't love us, may God turn their hearts. But if he can't turn their hearts, may he turn their ankles, so that we may know them by their limping.
The prep is the most important part of the job. Solvents like prep wash and other petrolium based degreasers can really mess up a paint job as they can soften the plastic. The safest and most effective way to clean and rid the plastic of silicones is with 3M Plastic Prep. Clean all parts thoroughly and scuff with the 3M scotch pads and clean again.
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11:32 PM
vwaltdog Member
Posts: 418 From: Tewksbury, MA Registered: Nov 2002
Try spraying it lighter with more of a misting coat. Also hold can farther away when spraying. The trick if you have a problem is not spraying a wet coat. It will usually get rid of all or most of the fisheyes. Let the first coats dry longer between coats.
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03:46 AM
Mickey_Moose Member
Posts: 7568 From: Edmonton, AB, Canada Registered: May 2001
Yes, use brake cleaner but,... I changed my GT interior from brown to red/black to match my new seats with paint and it looks great. Fish eyes are caused by oil spots and or left-on armor all and the likes. You have clean it really good. I used brake cleaner (use only the flamable type, the others leave a film) and mineral sprits to get it spotless. As for that fusion paint, it sucks!!! Sometimes it works great and sometimes it never dries fully, stays tachy? And use a heat gun or hair dryer, seems to bake it on and speeds up the job. Oh, and do remove everything from the car first. The dash is easy to get out.