IT RUNS!!! Well, I am still waiting on the spark plug coil wire from GM parts direct but I did have an old plug wire here that I stripped back and shoved in the hole just to get it started. Had some issues with programming but got it sorted out for the most part and got it fired up. I had to revise the cooling system just a little as the feed hose that goes in the top of the electric pump was trapping an air bubble and was starving the pump for coolant. I solved this by putting in a "T" and then stepping the T down to 5/16" hose which hooked to the other port on the 2.8L coolant neck that was originally used for the throttle body coolant bypass. I will get some pics tomorrow and post them later. The way it is set up now, the cooling system is self-burping so there should never be a problem with an air pocket. Time will tell.
Did run into a problem with the knock sensors as the ones in the block are for a 96 Caprice and the 95 PCM we got from the junkyard came from a 95 Caprice L99 so the knock module is incompatible with our knock sensors. I have disabled code 43 in the programming for now just to get it running but we are either going to have to replace the knock module or the knock sensors. Problem is Mr. Pat is hoping to take off to Georgia on Friday and I know if we order the module from gmpartsdirect it won't be here in time. Knock sensors can be purchased locally and the price will be similar.
Aside from all that, the left axle got put together and is back in the car. All that needs to be done on the left side is for the tire to be put on. The right wheel well is still open as I want to get this engine warmed up to make sure we have no leaks that appear. Coolant is in and there are currently no leaks but temperature tends to loosen things up a bit so I want to retighten everything after the engine has run for a bit. Tranny cooler is on and hooked up. Exhaust, EGR tube, and tach modification are on the agenda to be finished Sunday.
After the exhaust gets done this thing should be ready for the road. Once on the road I can do the final bit of PCM tuning to make sure this thing is running right. I will keep you all posted.
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02:28 AM
BV MotorSports Member
Posts: 4821 From: Oak Hill, WV Registered: May 2001
I hope to get about 25-27 on the highway at a crusing speed of 67mph. .
Mr. Pat, if you drive it at 67 on the Atlanta expressways, you're gonna get killed. Speed limit on the interstates down here is about 80-85. 67 on surface roads, maybe.
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08:38 AM
fierofool Member
Posts: 12929 From: Auburn, Georgia USA Registered: Jan 2002
Dont know if this helps but when I had a 94 Firehawk, I installed the LT4 knock sensor because of the headers.
Well the problem we have is the knock module in the PCM was designed to work with 95 L99 knock sensors, not 96 LT1 knock sensors, which are a different part number.
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12:30 PM
Mr. Pat Member
Posts: 1860 From: Melbourne, VIC Australia Registered: Apr 2003
Mr. Pat, if you drive it at 67 on the Atlanta expressways, you're gonna get killed. Speed limit on the interstates down here is about 80-85. 67 on surface roads, maybe.
Dont even get me started on you georgians Never seen so many SUV's doing 90 in my life. But im trying to keep the speed down a little. Once im in Atlanta im sure ill step it up a little Theres some pretty fancy cars downs there.
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03:29 PM
Jan 26th, 2004
Darth Fiero Member
Posts: 5921 From: Waterloo, Indiana Registered: Oct 2002
Got the exhaust done today and I must say this car is a LOT quieter than I thought it was going to be. Furthermore, there don't appear to be any leaks of any kind as I let it run for quite a while so I could pull some data for tuning.
Here is a pic of the finished exhaust system:
Here is a pic of the EGR tube hookup I welded to the rear exhaust manifold dump tube:
Here is a pic of what I used for the EGR tube. This stuff is great...While it is not as thick as stock, it is made of stainless and I have personally used it for EGR tubes and Oil Return lines from turbos in the past without any problems. You can buy them in assorted sizes and lengths and they hook up to standard flare fittings. This is nice because you can weld the flare fittings to the components you need to connect which means you can put them on almost any application. If it ever needs replaced, you can just go down to your local Lowes or Menards and buy a new one for $10.
Here is a pic of the exhaust installed on the car, sorry for the dark picture, the white car tends to mess with this camera:
Oh yea, here is a picture of what I did to solve the air pocket problem that was starving the pump for coolant. The red circle shows where the air pocket was getting trapped. The line leaving the "T" adapter runs up to the stock 2.8L thermostat housing and hooks to one of the 3/8" hose fittings that were meant for the throttle body coolant bypass. Needless to say, the cooling system appears to be working perfectly as the fan only comes on for about 45 seconds and then stays off for about 10 min with the car just sitting there running. The road test will show if there are any problems for sure.
And finally, here is a picture of the COMPLETED LT1 swap. Still have to find a good cruise control switch and finish the tuning.
There is an issue with the tuning, however. The LT1 PCM wants to see a driveshaft mounted VSS sensor with a 40 tooth reluctor ring. This means that depending on rear end gearing and tire size, this PCM is going to want to see about 80,000 pulses per mile from the VSS. The 4T60-E only has a 30 tooth reluctor VSS sensor which is diff mounted. This means that the reluctor spins the same speed as the wheel, or about 24,000 pulses per mile. Well, the PCM can be adjusted down to compensate for this, or so I thought. When I made the changes to the programming, the engine would not run. It would start, but shut immediately off. Just a minor glitch, I will figure it out. But, like I said, the good news is we have no leaks, oil pressure is good, trans goes into gear, everthing is looking up. Just got to get the tuning done.
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02:40 AM
Master Tuner Akimoto Member
Posts: 2267 From: South Florida,USA Registered: Jul 2003
You are doing a great job on your detailed swap and I have new found respect for your technical expertise look N good a big + for you(nice to see Archie chipping in with info)
------------------ Tuners of the Quickest 4.9 12.51@118 mph
4.5/4.9 (RSR)Hi Perf. Caddi-V8 Fully Blueprint&Balanced Rotating Assembly Custom Intake Manifold Custom Machined Heads Victor Reinz Head Gaskets 50-150HP Nos Power Shot. Holley 510-0-4412C Carb.
[This message has been edited by Master Tuner Akimoto (edited 01-26-2004).]
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08:00 AM
mrfixit58 Member
Posts: 3330 From: Seffner, Fl, USA Registered: Jul 99
Next time you do that big tranny, let me know when you order, I have a limited production version of the adapter plate that allows for that tranny.
Archie
Archie - is the different plate only for the "E" model tranny? I'm doing a TPI 350 with a non-"e" 440T4 tranny (and I've got the normal auto adaptor plate)?
Finally got this beast on the road today. I must say that I am impressed with the way this thing runs, that is the strongest 260hp Iron-head LT1 I have ever driven. Well, I guess the 3.33 final drive and lighter weight of the Fiero helps a bit. Anyway, got the issues sorted out and everything is looking good. The programming error was an error on my part for using the incorrect definition file for tuning the PCM. (There are 2 rev for the same PCM, I was using a rev for the early 94 LT1 PCM).
Everything appears to be working normally with the exception of the PWM TCC circuit. As luck would have it the LT1 PCM controls this circuit opposite what the 4T60-E is set up to work with, so when the TCC engaged, it locked up firmly then started to slip and kept slipping. It is supposed to gradually apply the TCC and then lock it up firmly. Well, even after I wired in a relay to flip-flop the control, the LT1 PCM was still commanding a 90% duty cycle during normal driving on the PWM TCC circuit. Problem is the 4T60-E is designed to work with a 100% duty cycle alogrythum otherwise the TCC can slip constantly. Appearantly, this is not the case with 4L60-E's. Anyway, all I had to do was disable the PWM TCC trouble code in the programming and simply leave the PWM solenoid wire disconnected from the PCM.
Now I know everyone is just dying to know what I did to the wiring in order for the LT1 to control the 4T60-E. Well, here is a diagram of what I did:
Now I must note that the PCM will never see any gear selection below D4 (or OD), but it does not appear to care, but I have not tried holding the trans in manual 1 or 2 forever so I don't know how it would respond. As with any trans fault, worst case scenario the PCM would lock the trans in 2nd or 3rd gear until the key is cycled to off at least once. Then everything will be ok. As far as the LT1 PCM's Pressure Control Solenoid and 3-2 downshift solenoid outputs, they don't need to be hooked to anything as long as you disable their associated trouble codes in the PCM. Likewise with the PWM TCC control solenoid.
BTW, it shifts great, sounds good, and despite the slick, snow-covered roads, seems to feel pretty quick. I would say this is a solid mid-13 sec car. But it has been a long time since I have driven anything fast so it could be a lot quicker or slower than it actually feels to me. Mr. Pat says he will take it to a dyno and a 1/4 mile dragstrip once he makes it down to Georgia so we shall soon find out. Only thing left that I am waiting on is a cruise control switch stalk (so we can make sure the cruise works) and some fine tuning of the PCM.
------------------ power corrupts. absolute power corrupts absolutely.
Oh yea, before I forget, I wanted to let you all know how I wired up the elec water pump. Well, the elec water pump is controlled by the Fan 1 output of the LT1 PCM. The PCM controls a relay which is wired to the water pump in the same way as the stock elec cooling fan with an execption. Between the in-line 20 amp fuse (that was supplied with the pump) and the pump motor, I spliced in the wire that goes to the hot lamp on the dash. Now any time the pump is not running the hot lamp will light up alerting the driver that the pump is not on. This also serves another purpose as to let the driver know that when the car is first turned on, without the engine running, the hot lamp should be lit otherwise the bulb could be burned out or there is an open in the water pump motor circuit. (the LT1 PCM will not command Fan 1 or 2 relays on without the engine running unless it is in Field Service mode or there is any number of vital trouble code faults currently set)
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04:53 AM
KissMySSFiero Member
Posts: 5544 From: Tarpon Springs, FL USA Registered: Nov 2000
Nice, On the exhaust. Do the front and rear bank cross over just in front of the cat? I would think thats how you did it, but its a little hard to tell from the pic.
Those Lt1's just look so much more at home than a TPI motor. Makes me wanna sell mine and go Lt1 like I originaly planned. Grrrr
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10:34 AM
Mr. Pat Member
Posts: 1860 From: Melbourne, VIC Australia Registered: Apr 2003
Oh man, that thing is a beast!! I love the way it sounds, so much more bad-ass than my 2.8. And that was pretty mean sounding with the borla without the cat. So deep and menacing.
Hey Jo, Unless we get more snow, ill be home by the 4th at the latest if you want to check out the car. You mentioned leaving on the 7th? Is that correct? Im watching my sisters while my parents are in Paris on their 10th ann. So if you need somewhere to stay your more than welcome. LMK if you can come, and when I know for a fact that ill be there in time we can work it out. Your right about the way it looks. Looks even better in person
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12:32 PM
Darth Fiero Member
Posts: 5921 From: Waterloo, Indiana Registered: Oct 2002
Nice, On the exhaust. Do the front and rear bank cross over just in front of the cat? I would think thats how you did it, but its a little hard to tell from the pic.
Those Lt1's just look so much more at home than a TPI motor. Makes me wanna sell mine and go Lt1 like I originaly planned. Grrrr
Actually, both exhaust banks come together AT the cat, then split off again right after the cat to exit out dual tips.
There is a site in the internet that tells you have to modify an LT1 intake so it works on an earlier SBC. Several people have reportedly done it already with great success. Much more top end HP than a TPI, even though you do lose some TQ and a lot of low end grunt.
There is a site in the internet that tells you have to modify an LT1 intake so it works on an earlier SBC. Several people have reportedly done it already with great success. Much more top end HP than a TPI, even though you do lose some TQ and a lot of low end grunt.
Actually, both exhaust banks come together AT the cat, then split off again right after the cat to exit out dual tips.
There is a site in the internet that tells you have to modify an LT1 intake so it works on an earlier SBC. Several people have reportedly done it already with great success. Much more top end HP than a TPI, even though you do lose some TQ and a lot of low end grunt.
I know about the Lt1 intake, but you can't reverse the intake because of the distributer. I like the look of the reversed intake because it makes the engine look more centered(plus its moved over 2 inches) I have a few ideas brewing, but will see how things pan out. As of right now I'll be sticking with my TPI. I already ahve all the aftermarket goodies for it.
Pat, I'll be near Brunswick, GA on the 7th at my Dads house. Where in GA are you going to be moving? IIRC, it was near Atlanta which is right on my way home. Hopefully I can hear the beast.
150??? Maybe when the snow melts, im pretty stupid, but not that stupid have you gone that fast? Im still a little bewildered, Chelsea sais im walking around like a new father Cant get this stupid grin of my face
Jo, I live in Lawrenceville, which is 40 mins NE of Atlanta I believe. I have no idea where anything is in that state. so I couldnt tell you how close it is, but its just off highway 85 I believe.
Yes I have hit 150 with RPM to spare. With my new shocks/struts and poly bushings, the car was very stable at that speed. And no I do not make a habit out of doing this. We were coming back from the RFTH#8 and I was playing around with a late model Trans Am on I-75 until we ran into some traffic and than I backed off. It was fun.
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05:39 PM
Jan 28th, 2004
Darth Fiero Member
Posts: 5921 From: Waterloo, Indiana Registered: Oct 2002
Ok, well, its pretty much finished. The cruise is installed and working perfectly and the tuning is about 90% there. Mr. Pat should have this beast back by Wednesday evening. I will get some more pics before it leaves, hopefully it is nice enuf tomorrow so I can wash it for the camera.
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12:34 AM
Jan 29th, 2004
Darth Fiero Member
Posts: 5921 From: Waterloo, Indiana Registered: Oct 2002
Well, these are the only pictures I got, it is still in the single digits here and can't wash the car. Anyway, I had to keep it for another night because there is a stalling problem when the engine is cold. It fires right up but then stumbles and dies. Most likely the A/F ratio vs. coolant temp table but it is hard to tune something like this because after you have the car running for a few minutes it warms up to the point in which it quits stalling. So HOPEFULLY it will be done Thursday.
I will second that. it is FREEZING here (bout 15 mins from Darth) tommorow its supposed to be -8 before wind chill factor! damn i hope my car warms up fast!!!!!! Oh, MR. Pat dont forget you promised to give me a ride!!!!!
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12:17 AM
Darth Fiero Member
Posts: 5921 From: Waterloo, Indiana Registered: Oct 2002
Got the cold-start issue figured out. It was a combination of too rich condition and not enough min air flow throttle adjustment. Seems like it is working fine now. Mr. Pat took possesion of the car today and I followed him on the interstate so we could gauge how loud the car was. Well, it isn't loud at all. Probably a little louder than a stock LT1 T/A but quieter than one with flowmaster exhaust. He seems happy with it which makes me happy!
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09:29 PM
Jan 30th, 2004
Mr. Pat Member
Posts: 1860 From: Melbourne, VIC Australia Registered: Apr 2003
Got the cold-start issue figured out. It was a combination of too rich condition and not enough min air flow throttle adjustment. Seems like it is working fine now. Mr. Pat took possesion of the car today and I followed him on the interstate so we could gauge how loud the car was. Well, it isn't loud at all. Probably a little louder than a stock LT1 T/A but quieter than one with flowmaster exhaust. He seems happy with it which makes me happy!
Oh man this thing is a blast to drive, couldnt give it much more than 1/4 throttle around town though, due to the slick roads, but even then it pulls like a freight train!! Thanks a ton man, it was all worth IMO, I hope your not to bitter about it, I know it was a bear at times. Anyway, its still -2 outside, theres still snow outside, and I just found out my Yokohamas arn't even rated for the snow, so its a little difficult to drive around to say the least. Already had 1 hick give me the thumbs-up on Harrison st
God this thing sounds good.
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10:25 AM
Darth Fiero Member
Posts: 5921 From: Waterloo, Indiana Registered: Oct 2002
I just found out my Yokohamas arn't even rated for the snow
That explains a lot.
No, I am not bitter about it. It was a learning experience, and yes, it was a bear at times, but any project is that has never been done before. Like I said before, I think we broke new ground on this project and I am glad that I was a part of it. I am also glad that it allowed me to show a lot of nay-sayers on this BBS that I am not V8 hater. I like being involved in projects that are "outside the box".
And a note to anyone else out there who is thinking about doing this project: if you have any questions about what was done or whatever, my PM box is open to ANYONE, regardless of whatever differences we might have had in the past.
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02:56 PM
Raydar Member
Posts: 40962 From: Carrollton GA. Out in the... country. Registered: Oct 1999
Darth, Nice work, man! Thanks to you and Pat for documenting and explaining so much of the procedure. Also, I'm glad that Pat decided to go with the cat. It'll keep the "smog gestapo" in GA happy. (I'm not an environmental weenie. I just understand how the emissions testing in metro Atlanta works. My cat comes on and off and my chip gets changed, between sniffings. For off-road use only, of course. )
Pat, I hope you'll be able to come to our next club meeting, two weeks from tomorrow. Oh yeah, by the way... We *very seldom* have snow in Atlanta. We just have ice storms.
Oh... Joe, Brunswick is on the far southeastern coast of Georgia (You probably already knew that.). You'll almost certainly have to drive through Atlanta to get to and from there. Pat is in Lawrenceville, which is about 40 minutes northeast of Atlanta. Pretty much straight up I-85, then bear right on Hwy 316. You'll be entering/leaving Atlanta on I-75 which goes from southeast of - to - northwest of Atlanta.
In case you don't know, Atlanta rush hour traffic is legendary. Nearly as bad as L.A., from what I've heard. You don't want to try to get around Atlanta in rush hour traffic if you can avoid it. (I drive 30 miles into town every day, and it's *not* fun.) Atlanta 'burbs pretty much include anything in a 30 mile radius of Atlanta. 50+ miles on the North side. I'm not joking.
Later!
------------------ Raydar 88 3.4 coupe.
Coming soon... 88 Formula, presently under the knife.
Thanks for the props. I just spent a couple of hours last night building a webpage dedicated to this swap to document most of what I did. You can check it out at http://dtcc.cz28.com/LT1build