Hey guys, the weather seems like it is going to start being a little kind in the near future. I've turned my attention towards taking care of some minor "scuffs" on the body. I was wondering if it were okay to use good ole Bondo on the Fiero body or is there something else I should use? Thanks in advance. I know you guys will give me some great info.

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BLADE

'86SE
Engine rblt by Jasper (Going V8 in 2004..Hopefully)
Hypertech Chip
Low-temp Fan Switch
Low-temp Thermostat
Grand Am rear brakes
215/45-17 front, 235/45-17 rear Falken Ziex ZE-502

I've used Bondo on the panels that have been damages on the surface, such as a gouge or deep scratch, but if you have a crack, it's better to use the plastic repair stuff designed for bumper covers, because it's much more flexible than Bondo. Keep in mind that any Bondo you use will crack if you flex the panel too much, so be careful with it, and make sure it's not too deep. If there is any depth to the scuffs, where you have a stretched area and need to fill it, then I'd suggest the 2 part repair stuff for the bumpers. Can you post a pic or two?

Mark

Yea I agree with FireFox I would go for the stuff for the bumpers because Im saying the Bondo will probably crack because its not flexable.

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'85 SE 4 Speed
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No Cat
Holley Scoup
Holley Throttle Body

Thanks. I'll post pics tonight.

I only use the flexible repair stuff on the bumpers myself, or if a body panel is actually broken. I use regular fillers like bondo on the body. Todays fillers are a lot more flexible than you think. Ive hammered out dents in metal cars that had been repaired with bondo before without messing it up. I just ground it flat with grinder when done and put a skim coat more of filler on.

Hey Roger, is there anything more high end for filler then "bondo"? If so, do you use it? The stuff I see them using on the discovery channel shows looks really really smooth and easy to apply unlike the bondo I use.

quote Originally posted by rogergarrison: I only use the flexible repair stuff on the bumpers myself, or if a body panel is actually broken. I use regular fillers like bondo on the body. Todays fillers are a lot more flexible than you think. Ive hammered out dents in metal cars that had been repaired with bondo before without messing it up. I just ground it flat with grinder when done and put a skim coat more of filler on.

quote Originally posted by Howard_Sacks: Hey Roger, is there anything more high end for filler then "bondo"? If so, do you use it? The stuff I see them using on the discovery channel shows looks really really smooth and easy to apply unlike the bondo I use.

I saw that too, looked really easy to work with.

I actually use Bondo brand. It's smooth, easy to mix, and sands out wonderfully. I don't remember the stuff that we had at the dealership, but it wasn't as easy to work with, and it was a lot more expensive.

Mark

I think Bondo got a bad rap. Ive tried a lot of different ones. Even 3Ms Premium blend. I still just go to Autozone and get the $12 a gallon bondo. It sands better, goes on smooth, less pinholes. Even with 3Ms I always had a problem with the edges wanting to peel up instead of feather edging.

If Roger says anything about body and paint repair, I sit up and pay attention. He knows his stuff!

Phil

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87 FIERO GT 2.8 5spd

GM auto tech for 27 years. Specializing in electrical and computer problems. Now on workers comp. and it looks like I will be unable to return to work as a tech.

Thanks everyone. Here is a pic of my small issue.

I also have a small crack on my rear quarter panel. Couldn't get a clean pic of it to show.

Thanks for all of your help.

I haven't used it yet, but the other day I just bought Bondo-Glass. It's a Bondo, Fiberglass mixture, might work even better. I plan on using it to help smooth out some of the body, after using the actual fiberglass with my customizations.

Use the 2 part bumper repair stuff for the crack in the rear bumper and the hole there in the front, and you should be able to use Bondo for the rest of the scuff damage. Keep in mind that the Bondo won't handle any pressure from hitting anything, so be careful and don't hit any more buildings.

Mark

Thanks Mark. However I must say that it was like that when I got it. That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

Mark if you check this, you have a PM.

[This message has been edited by Blade_69 (edited 03-17-2004).]

Same as Firefox said.

I have learned more from Roger and Mark then I have from anyone else here on PFF!!
Listen to them, they know the in's and out's...
Just wondering..
How many year's exrierence do you two have between ya'll...???

I have used Bonndo FAAAR LESS then alot of people think.. I used the green foam for the build-up of the widebody, etc... Then Fiberglassed over the foam and just used the Bondo, BondoGlass, etc. type stuff for the skim-coat, etc...
I think I did mone the right way...

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AKA. "SmoothGT"....
Custom Built W I D E BODY~GT!!

"I would rather be hatefully remembered, then just forgotten!!"

1965.............

quote Originally posted by rogergarrison: Even with 3Ms I always had a problem with the edges wanting to peel up instead of feather edging.

Isn't that usually an issue with adhesion not the product...like oil from your fingers or grease or things like that?
This is not a flame i respect you completely and totally take everything you say into consideration because you do know your stuff, but i thought that peeling of filler on the edges when feathering was from bad adhesion.

back on topic though, make sure if you use a 2 part putty that you use a plastic cleaner. I don't think you need a adhesion promotor though because Urathane is a non-olefin, or maybe its olefin...either way...i don't think you need an adhesion promotor...but make sure the repair is clean of dirt and road grime and oils/grease ect. I hope all goes well....

-Phil

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86 SE V6 under constuction
Please rate me if i am of any assistance, thank you...

quote Originally posted by rogergarrison: 1965.............

Well..........I painted my first rust repair in 1978, I think......painted my first complete car in '79.......

started painting model cars back in the early '70s, and bike frames after that....

Roger.....we're getting old.

Mark

[This message has been edited by Firefox (edited 03-17-2004).]

No, both used under identical circumstances. Ground to bare metal/ plastic. Grinding or sanding or using 'cheese grater' would always pull up the very edge. A lot of times when it even looked ok, after paint cured it would raise up slightly more, leaving a 'circle' around your body work. This problem never occurs with Bondo brand with me anyway.

What should be used in a half dolllar sized hole in the hood (located in the middle of the hood)?

Would bondo work ok for this type of application, and is any prep work required before filling in this type of hole??

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Keith F.

If you are talking about an actual hole, then use fiberglass resin. Use tape on the backside to support the first layer and fill it from the outside until you have a decent fill, then grind the outer and inner surfaces smooth (if you want the inside looking good too) with a very course gringing disk, and use Bondo for the finishing process. Fiberglass resin doesn't always smooth out and feather well. Follow the directions on the can for thicknesses on your fiberglass resin. You can use Bondo brand fiberglass repair resin for this, and Bondo brand plastic filler.

Mark

Also make sure you 'dish in' around the edges of the hole with grinder so the glass has a larger area to grip. DONT just put the glass and bondo in the hole. It will pop back out. Like Mark said if you want the inside looking good too, also dish in the inside with grinder before you put your glass in.

Thanks guys for the tips!

I have a hood on my one GT that has a hole in it. Not sure what happed to it (it was like this when I bought the car). The damage area is about the size of a half dollar but the hole isn't quite that large. The hole where it pokes though the other size is about the size of a nickle. So should I ream the hole completely out?
I was just gonna replace the hood but though I would attempt to repair it (trying to learn how to do some body work)!

I have never attempted any body work before ..........
"Dish-in" What exactly is this? Do you mean to tapper the ends on the hole inward to form a type of lip the whole way around (make the outside hood edge larger then the inside hood edge)?

I will be attempting this project this weekend!

Thanks for the info!

grind it so it looks like this in cross section

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quote Originally posted by 1985FieroGT: I haven't used it yet, but the other day I just bought Bondo-Glass. It's a Bondo, Fiberglass mixture, might work even better. I plan on using it to help smooth out some of the body, after using the actual fiberglass with my customizations.

I have used this type of stuff in the past. It sets up really..really hard and is kind of hard to work with. Although I think what I used was Duraglass, but Bondo-Glass should be similar. Mostly its for use when waterproofing is needed. Standard bondo absorbs mosture and can cause cracks or other problems. For instance, the car I used this stuff on had damage to the roof area at the top of the A pillar (I didn't know that until I started digging into it). It had been pulled out using the old drill holes and pull method but still had a ton of filler in it. Since this was right next to the windshield molding, when it rained I would get a nice puddle of water in my front drivers seat. I ground out all the old filler. Reworked the area using this stuff, and problem went away. That car was one of those deals that the more you dug into it, the more problems you found.

Yes that works too. Ive used it on rust holes. It still will absorb moisture, though not nearly as fast as regular fillers. Its a gel, and has fiberglass strands in it to give it some extra strength. You can get short or long fiber. I dont recommend the long unless your really filling big areas. Its a lot harder to mess with than the short strand.

Another fix for holes, like in a bumper where the backside dont show, is to use the flexible bumper repair kit, spread a thin layer on the back side, lay a piece of fiberglass mat or cloth in it while its wet, then cover that with more of the repair kit. Makes a real strong repair. Then after it hardens, apply more of the repair kit to the front side to finish it.