Hey there, I just reinstalled my engine and found that I had a badly cracked EGR tube where it goes into the intake. I went to the local auto parts store and bought a tube of putty called "Steely" mady by a company called U-Fix-It You basically cut off as much of the puty as you need, need it with your fingers (there are 2 parts to the putty that mix when you need it that make it harden). I rolled it into a snake shape, put it around the crack on the egr tube, press hard all around and done! it hardens very hard and is supposidly good till 300 degrees.

The stuff is a "steel reinforced epoxy" of some sort. Really works well and is completely hard after an hour. My car runs fine, I'll let everyone know if it eventually cracks again. Not bad for a $5 tube of putty. Still have enough left over to do 4 or 5 more EGR tubes

I hate to say it but that EGR tube is going to get hotter than 300 deg. You may want to consider a different fix.

quote Originally posted by Doug85GT: I hate to say it but that EGR tube is going to get hotter than 300 deg. You may want to consider a different fix.

the stuff i use quick -steel is good to over 500 and i have used it on a egr tube and it works for a few years then it start to get old and cbrake away

Good luck with that.

Been there, done it. It will fail soon and it's a huge vacuum leak..

When they crack, block off or replace is the only solution. You'll see.

quote Originally posted by 88GTNeverfinished: Good luck with that. Been there, done it. It will fail soon and it's a huge vacuum leak.. When they crack, block off or replace is the only solution. You'll see.

i agree to replace it but sometimes you only have 1 car that runs and no money for a few weeks it will work .or get a f-body one for a few bucks at a boneyard. i keep that quick steel stuff around it is handy to have to fix cracks in the plastic mounting holes (had to fix some yesterday )and many more everyday thing 20 year old cars have go wrong

I tried JB Weld on my tube upon finding a crack. It held for a week. I was at a stoplight, and the idle shot up to 3500 RPM and wouldn't go down. I was only a couple of blocks from home, but it really startled me. I looked for the cause, and found the repair had split in half, and the crack was twice as big. : (
I replaced the tube.
JBW Weld is too rigid for an area like that, i suppose. Or did the heat compromise it? Don't people patch engine blocks with this stuff?
<shrug>

No I've never patched a engine block with JB weld......but there is a very simple mod if you take the time to look it up that lets you use current (and a whole lot cheaper) GM EGR tubes on the Fiero. Takes a hour or to to complete depending on your skill level and works out quite well. No more PRICEY Fiero EGR tubes yeah!!!!!!!!

Well 2 days later and probibly 100 kilometers city driving the patch is holding great. There was even some spirited driving in there where the motor got pretty warm and its still holding. Being steel reinforced epoxy I'm hoping it holds, but if not I have a tube off of my LT1 that I can use. Just didn't feel like pulling my upper manifold off.

Mine lasted for a couple weeks patched. I replaced it with a f body tube. You don't need to remove the plenum. You can get at those bolts with a 1/4" drive socket and very small 1/4" swivel head driver. a socket wrench is too big. crafstman makes one the looks like a very small breaker bar that gets in there nicely

Not to criticize your choice of repair method but I do not believe that the "band aid" repair that you used on your EGR tube will last for long.
If you don't have the money to invest in a new tube, go to the junkyards and look at the F bodied cars with the 60* V6. Many of these, especially those on the old 3.1L will adapt and the cost is bound to be low. You could also take the tube off and have it braze welded or braze weld it yourself. Mig welding might also work but on heat cycled metal, mig isn't usually recommended.
Several years ago I braze welded an EGR tube back together and it held fine. While I do believe that a new tube is the best fix, there are many alternatives that can be used for a successful fix when funds are low.

I live 2 hours from the nearest junkyard and I wanted to try this. Not until I posted what I had done did I hear bad things about patching it. If it fails I will get another tube, simple. So far its holding up and its been hot outside with lots of city and highway driving, even some rough gravel, still holding.

[This message has been edited by crzyone (edited 07-02-2004).]

Well for anyone that is interested, the patch is still holding strong. I've even washed my engine which I'm sure put some temprature shock on the patch but still holding. I've probibly driven 2000kms so far. So anyone that wants a good fix while you look for a new egr tube, this is it.

Not to bust anyones bubble on a patch fix but the last time I checked there is always vaccum on the egr tube even when the throttle is closed. This means if the patch fails and any of that putty-patch stuff breaks loose it could get sucked into the intake and the valves especially if your covering an open crack. This could also ruin your whole day and then some.

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I see what your saying, but this stuff sets up pretty good and its thick. It sets up like a rock and as far as I can tell it hasn't deteriorated one bit. I would suspect it would crack before anything.

For anyone that cares, still holding. If it holds until I get my TDC in there, perfect

No signs of cracking or leaking.

When you get around to replacing your EGR tube you don't have to pull your upper manifold. By now you have silently challenged all the critics of your patch, and may just be waiting to see how long it lasts. Plain and simple It is a patch until it breaks or you can fix it the right way. It always seems to let go at the most in-opportune time, Murphy makes sure that happens. The choice is yours, but the potential for engine damage is there. What I was saying is the upper manifold doesn't have to be removed. I did have to remove the cold start tube, wire and connection as well as the distributor to get the bolts out. It is still awful tight getting at the front 10 MM bolt. The bolts coming out were a little tough, but getting it bolted back in place was a real challange. I think I expanded my vocabulary on that job a little before it was finished.
By the way I tried JB Weld when my EGR tube cracked, but the heat was too great. I finally replaced it with one off Ebay, and haven't had a problem since. Good luck on the replacement, when you decide to do it.
JIm

Heh.. I think I'm waiting for it to crack, but fear not, I keep more steely and a screwdriver for the dis cap just in case. I'm pulling the motor within the next few weeks for an engine swap, we'll see if it holds till then.

Quick epoxy is a wonder. When it works it works great when it doesn't ...
For another fix... and for those of you with access to a TIG welder, I welded mine up. It was tough , sort of like welding a soda pop can but it has held for a year.
Another fix might be something I found at lowes/home depot? Gas line!! yep the kind for connecting a gas heater or stove. It looks about the right size and it is flexible.It should fit the hose ends and just braze it to either end after you get it bent.
wheelie

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