EDIT: there i go again being catty

[This message has been edited by buddycraigg (edited 01-11-2004).]

quote Originally posted by buddycraigg: I’ll bet you $50.00 that the ID of the plastic gear is at least 0.150” smaller that the ridge on the back side of the metal armature. If you were to try to press it off, the plastic gear would break. are you game?

When I installed Rodney replacement plastic gears, I had to drive the shaft out of the old gear with a hammer. The old gear did not break and I think could have been re-used.

quote Originally posted by sanderson: When I installed Rodney replacement plastic gears, I had to drive the shaft out of the old gear with a hammer. The old gear did not break and I think could have been re-used.

now i really have to try it.
it didn't look to me that it would survive being removed and reinstalled.
i would be intersted in knowing the ID of rodney's metal gear.

[This message has been edited by buddycraigg (edited 01-11-2004).]

quote Originally posted by buddycraigg: I’ll bet you $50.00 that the ID of the plastic gear is at least 0.150” smaller that the ridge on the back side of the metal armature. If you were to try to press it off, the plastic gear would break. are you game?

Well, when I put Rodneys replacement plastic gears and bumpers in my 84, I pressed the old gears off with a bench vise and a deepwell socket and put the new PLASTIC gears back on the same way--no problem at all (It does look like it won't work-I spent a fair amount of time pondering the same thing)

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Rod Schneider, Woodstock, Ga.
White 88 GT

[This message has been edited by Rodrv6 (edited 01-11-2004).]

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[This message has been edited by buddycraigg (edited 02-10-2004).]

No problem And the factory cushions were located like you indicated in the first picture. (Of the three a couple of posts up)

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Rod Schneider, Woodstock, Ga.
White 88 GT

quote Originally posted by Rodrv6: And the factory cushions were located like you indicated in the first picture.

so then if the pieces of pen that i used, do become unglued they could possibly interfere with the metal gear.

Great right up. I really could have used this info about 6 months ago.
You really should replace the gear.
I tried the 180* rotate and discovered the stripped portion is now in the middle of the cycle
instead of the end. The light studdered about half way up. After about a week or so I ended
up having to help the light up past the stripped spot. I ended up buying Rodney's kit.
Just my 2 cents.

Lorenzo

quote Originally posted by sanderson: One thing that bit me when I rebuilt this style of motor. There is a rubber bushing around the shaft under the knob. When the case is reassembled you have to make sure that this bushing gets positioned into a groove on the case halves. It's possible to knock it out of place sliding the cases back together so that it is entirely out of the case. The motor will run but when it gets to the end of travel this mispositioned bushing will prevent the limit switch from properly shutting off the motor. It just sits there and cycles on and off on the thermal overload.

guess who just went out to a car with a dead battery???

<BUMP> I'll be doing this soon, too. Gads.

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John DuRette
Black 85 SE, undergoing work as we speak!
Battery re-located up front
Remote Start/Window Rollup/Lock/Trunk Release/Alarm
White Gauge Faces w/Speedometer Conversion
Urethane Suspension Bushings
Sequential Tallights
Custom Painted Dash Panels
SpyHunter Scoop
H4 Headlight Conversion
LED Third Brake Light
Braided Steel Brake Hoses
Lowered an inch

Still not on the road!

quote Originally posted by buddycraigg: guess who just went out to a car with a dead battery???

I almost walked away from mine thinking I had it fixed but just as I was about to close the hood I saw the motor twitch and when I watched I saw that it was twitching about every 15 seconds.

Make sure the rubber guide on the shaft is locked in it's place before assembling. I helped diagnose one that was sliding back and forth on the shaft and getting caught in the gear.

quote Originally posted by bonzo: I tried the 180* rotate and discovered the stripped portion is now in the middle of the cycle instead of the end. The light studdered about half way up. After about a week or so I ended up having to help the light up past the stripped spot. I ended up buying Rodney's kit. Just my 2 cents.

I'm not sure how the 180 degree flip became popularized, but bonzo is correct. Rotating the gear may work if the gear is only *slightly* chewed up. But if there is enough damage that the motor spins at the end of the cycle, it won't last. The myth is that the motor only uses half the gear, so flipping it gives it the "good half" to use. In fact, nearly all of the gear is used. If you stand and watch the gear (you can view the output shaft and the arm that mounts on it) and observe it traveling well more than 180 degrees. Looking at motors in action, the gear clearly drives the shaft closer to 300 degrees. I tried positioning the stripped spot on one motor in the small unused portion. It worked for a while, but started spinning again after a week or two. I ended up just rebuilding both with parts from Rodney.

In another "non-recommendation," I attempted once to fix a motor by filling the cavities with hot glue as someone mentioned above. I had seen this suggested online. Perhaps the glue I used wasn't hard enough, but I ended up with a mess of shredded glue particles inside my motor, and ended up buying another rebuild kit from Rodney for that side. Should have done that in the first place.

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[This message has been edited by buddycraigg (edited 02-11-2004).]

anyone want any close up pics?
i'm about to tear in to 6 motors

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[This message has been edited by buddycraigg (edited 02-11-2004).]

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[This message has been edited by buddycraigg (edited 02-10-2004).]

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[This message has been edited by buddycraigg (edited 02-10-2004).]

Quick question... Didn't see it covered here...

How do I get the plastic gear off the shaft?!?! It won't budge. :-/

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1984 Indy Fiero
4spd
Bone Stock w/54k miles (and creeping...)

quote Originally posted by buddycraigg: you mean this one???

Bingo

quote Originally posted by TheMasterRat: Quick question... Didn't see it covered here... How do I get the plastic gear off the shaft?!?! It won't budge. :-/

Do you have the steel drive plate off? It holds the plastic gear on. Once you pull that, I recall the plastic gear coming right off--there's nothing else really holding it in place. For that, I fashioned the puller described here, though I'm sure there are other ways of doing it.

quote Originally posted by TheMasterRat: Quick question... Didn't see it covered here... How do I get the plastic gear off the shaft?!?! It won't budge. :-/

Support the gear in a vise and tap the shaft with a hammer. It'll take a few semi firm blows to break the staking.

quote Originally posted by TheMasterRat: Quick question... Didn't see it covered here... How do I get the plastic gear off the shaft?!?! It won't budge. :-/

dont get ahead of the class.

i'm going to be doing more pic uploads tonight and i'll show what you are asking.

i at first thought that the plastic gear needed to come off the other side. but you really do beat the rod through the metal plate and the plastic gear at them sime time.

once i put it all back together i like to "steak" the metal plate back in place.

Great write up Buddycraig.

If you hadn't posted all the great pics, most of would never even know what the pre-88's looked inside. With that said....
I'm glad my headlights were made in 88.

88Ironduke

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Pilots with out maintainers are just pedestrians with a cool jacket and sunglasses.
I.Y.A.M.Y.A.S.

quote Originally posted by 88Ironduke: Great write up Buddycraig.

do people purposefully leave the second G off of my name

Can you post a pic that shows the rubber bushing under the knob at the top correctly installed ? I think I messed mine up .

[This message has been edited by PaulJK (edited 02-10-2004).]

sure, i'll do it tonight. i hope to be completed with this today

Another great writeup by buddycraigg...well done.

quote Originally posted by PaulJK: Can you post a pic that shows the rubber bushing under the knob at the top correctly installed ? I think I messed mine up .

It’s too late for me tonight, but if you look at these pics you should get an idea as to where it’s suppose to go.

PM me if you have any more questions

quote Originally posted by buddycraigg: First put it in the vice

Your gear staking is sooo much lower than mine... Anyone know why that could be?

The heigth of mine is sooo high up I'm not sure how I'm going to be able press it out... a socket over it ends up resting on the metal plate, so that'd by a useless endeavour.... any ideas?

[This message has been edited by TheMasterRat (edited 02-11-2004).]

go back to the first page.
there is a left motor shaft and a right motor shaft.

quote Originally posted by buddycraigg: go back to the first page. there is a left motor shaft and a right motor shaft.

<-- tard.
Ok.. I'll figure something out. I have no vise, so I'm going to see if I can't work it out some other way.
Thanks!

[This message has been edited by TheMasterRat (edited 02-11-2004).]