My uncle bought some of this today. It is supposed to be a direct replacement for R-12, and it doesn't require a retrofit kit or anything like that. Has anyone else seen this before?
http://www.freeze12.com
It cost him about $6.00 a can. Could this be the miracle replacement we've all been looking for? Just thought I'd share this.

Kris

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it works wonders in my fiero..... and yes it is worth not converting over to R-134A, but its hard to find a place that sells it, cuz autozone and all those shops dont sell freeze twelve.....

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Cameron Hoag

~*I want more than this world has to offer.
AIM: CDubbZ111
Year: 1987
Make/Model: Fiero GT
Color: Primer grey and burgundy
Transmission: 5spd Manual
AC PL PW PM sunroof defrost

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=46094&item=7910471352

I've got a similiar product (DuraCool) in several cars and it works very well. I like it because it runs at a lower pressure and seems to cool as good as R12.

The thing of it is, you dont actualy have to convert for R134. Just get the old stuff out, and screw on the new valves, the one you add coolant to, and then the high side. Then snap on the hose and fill

Propane based refrigerants can be VERY dangerous when used in automobiles. Use a lot of caution if you are going to use it, and STAND BACK is your system ever blows an AC hose.

quote Originally posted by Electrathon: Propane based refrigerants can be VERY dangerous when used in automobiles. Use a lot of caution if you are going to use it, and STAND BACK is your system ever blows an AC hose.

It says that Freeze 12 is non-flammable, so it cant be propane based...I wonder what it actually is?

------------------
Tim
Red 88 Formula Auto 2.8 100K+ Miles - Hypertech - No Cat - No EGR

Logic is a systematic method of coming to the wrong conclusion with confidence!

80% R134a, 20% R142b.

quote Originally posted by spark1: 80% R134a, 20% R142b.

If its 80% R134a, how can they claim it to be a direct replacement for R12? Sounds like more false advertising to me.

------------------
Tim
Red 88 Formula Auto 2.8 100K+ Miles - Hypertech - No Cat - No EGR

Logic is a systematic method of coming to the wrong conclusion with confidence!

There is no drop-in replacement for R12. Freeze-12 is one of many "blends" that are legal as replacements for R12, just like R134a. Same rules; all R12 must be legally removed and service fittings must be changed to use the alternative refrigerants or R134a. Every type of alternate refrigerant has unique service fittings and no mixing is allowed. Service shops must have totally separate gauges, tanks, recovery equipment etc. for each type. That's why most shops won't service the alternates. That being said, many people illegally use Freeze-12 and others as a drop-ins for R12 without removing remaining R12 or changing the service fittings.

[This message has been edited by spark1 (edited 07-17-2004).]

quote Originally posted by 86GT3.4DOHC: The thing of it is, you dont actualy have to convert for R134. Just get the old stuff out, and screw on the new valves, the one you add coolant to, and then the high side. Then snap on the hose and fill

I did this in my GT...the best $30 I have ever spent...still cold after a year, and in Houston!!

------------------

1988 GT (Firebird Interior),1988 Coupe (Daily Driver), 1985 SE (Project Car), 1985 Coupe (parts car), Firebird Interior Installation Website

Yes im getting ready to order a 2 cans from auto refrigerants and they say that 18 ounces of regular R12 is equivalent to 6 oz of freeze twelve. And since it comes in 6oz cans ill order two. And they have just came out with a industrial formula which at 32psi which is the optium pressure the air temp is 20 degrees. That means ill have 25 degree air coming out of my vents which is pretty damn cold!!! Oh well we'll see what happens and if i can mangage to freeze myself out

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quote Originally posted by Electrathon: Propane based refrigerants can be VERY dangerous when used in automobiles. Use a lot of caution if you are going to use it, and STAND BACK is your system ever blows an AC hose.

Wonder which is worse and/or more common? Propane refrigerant fires--or gasoline caused fires? Hmm maybe we shouldn't have gasoline, since there is up to 12 gals of it in the fuel system, and only 12 oz of propane in the ac system. Atomized gasolene spewing out a hole in a fuel line-OMG!! What were they thinking???

Some of the refrigerant blends contain up to 4% Butane or Isobutane. None of the EPA approved blends contain Propane.

The EPA says:

quote Although some blends contain flammable components, all blends that are Acceptable Subject to Use Conditions are nonflammable as blended.

Freeze 12 and Free Zone are the only two approved blends that do not contain any hydrocarbons.

The ones to avoid are not approved by the EPA but are legal to use in some states. They are OZ-12, HC12a and Duracool 12a. Those are blends of Propane (R290), Isobutane (R600a) and Ethane (R170).

[This message has been edited by spark1 (edited 07-18-2004).]

While the selection of "direct replacement" R-12 substitutes is large, I still favor going the R-134A route. R-134A is inexpensive available and you can get acceptable results with it, that is if the conversion is done properly..
The A/C in my Fiero is very cold with the AC on, even in 95* days. IMO, a proper R-134A conversion, requires removing any R-12 residual, disassembly of all lines, flushing them out or at least blowing them clear of the old 525 oil, installing a new orifice tube , new O rings, and a new accumulator (dessicant rated for R-134A-). The system must be then evacuated to 29. 5" of mercury. If the vacuum hold for a while (you'll need a gauge set), you then put in one 4oz can of ester oil (don't use PAG oil on conversions), and about 30oz of R-134A. You then hook up the R-134A supply to the LOW side port on the accumulator and begin charging. JUmping the compressor cycling switch will help the charging process. I usually stop charging when the high side gauge reads no more than 150 psi. I then put the connector back on the compressor cycling switch and adjust it ( there is a screw there) so that the compressor cycles ( cuts off) at between 19 - 21 psi. This provides the optimal cooling cycle for R-134A. The process is not that hard but you do need a manifold gauge set.
Now there is also the lowest cost way, where you just evacuate, put in the ester oil, and almost 2 1/2 cans of R-134A. If you are lucky this method may work or then it may not. I'd say the chances of getting optimal cooling are low but some people have done it and say that they are happy with the results.
I would stay away from the "snake oil" R-12 replacements and use what has been proven. If you end up using a propane based refrigerent replacement; sure they will cool fantastic, but you WILL be driving down the highway with a time bomb just waiting to explode. Consider the potential damage liability that you face for not using an approved refrigerent and the danger when you make your choice.

------------------
87GT 3.4 Turbo Best 0-60 5.2 seconds
http://www.turbochargerpower.com/turbo.htm

Dennis,
I perfer the low cost try. I have the conversion kit. The A/C shops by my house are being jerks. They will not evacuate the system for me without doing the whole job. So , I don't have much of a choice . Either just add the R132A or release the R12 and then fill it up. Best way for me to quickly release the R12 would be what??

------------------
jerryglasstoys

Flame Red 1988 Formula 5 Speed Getrag

quote Originally posted by spark1: 80% R134a, 20% R142b.

According to Freeze 12 literature, it is compatible with R 12 refrigerant oil. The R142b must be in the mix to make it compatible and circulate the old R 12 oil.

Edit to add: I wonder if 100% R142b is sold in cans?

Edit again to add: I found this comment on google search...Posted by George Goble on August 24, 2001 at 16:55:41: via: or 128.46.154.125

In Reply to: WOW thanks George posted by Glenn on August 20, 2001 at 18:44:31:

U R welcome..

R142b is not that good at carrying mineral oil.. R134a is ZERO.
R142b is only slightly better than R22 at carrying mineral oil.
R22 is only "so-so".. and needs line sizes reduced to bring
up gas velocity to "drag" the oil back by force.
Adding 3-4% isobutane to R142b makes it carry oil very well.

That is why lots of Freeze12 cars eventually fail due to
oil return problems.. if compressor is "uphill" from the evap
or a long run...

Evidently freeze 12 must have some isobutane in it also.
------------------
Tim
Red 88 Formula Auto 2.8 100K+ Miles - Hypertech - No Cat - No EGR

Logic is a systematic method of coming to the wrong conclusion with confidence!

[This message has been edited by FrugalFiero (edited 07-18-2004).]

quote Originally posted by daniel87fierogt: Yes im getting ready to order a 2 cans from auto refrigerants and they say that 18 ounces of regular R12 is equivalent to 6 oz of freeze twelve. And since it comes in 6oz cans ill order two. And they have just came out with a industrial formula which at 32psi which is the optium pressure the air temp is 20 degrees. That means ill have 25 degree air coming out of my vents which is pretty damn cold!!! Oh well we'll see what happens and if i can mangage to freeze myself out

You don't want to be doing that, mate. You need to set the low side pressure such that the temp in the evaporator core is not below freezing (at least not by much). Otherwise, with humidity etc., you'll risk icing up the evaporator core. I'd set my low side pressure for a temp of around 30°F - 35°F. That way you're pretty safe that it won't freeze. Even at 30° the ambient air should bring it above freezing quickly enough. You might get some frost on the evaporator or low side lines, but I don't think any ice would accumulate. Setting it at 20°F will cause it to ice up, though.

It's not that you'll ruin anything (well, you could, but it's unlikely), but as it ices up you'll get less airflow so it won't cool as well. A warmer (above freezing) evaporator will cool better because it can cool MORE air.

Trust me. 35° - 40°F air coming out of your vents will feel positively FRIGID on a 95° day.
Your typical A/C setup only does a temperature drop of about 20°-30°, so with 95° ambient air, you're looking at an air output of about 65° at best. That's industry standard. Anything better is gravy. But gravy's good, right?

[This message has been edited by Formula88 (edited 07-18-2004).]

George Goble is the inventor of Autofrost so his opinion about Freeze 12 may be suspect.

[This message has been edited by spark1 (edited 07-18-2004).]

quote Originally posted by daniel87fierogt: That means ill have 25 degree air coming out of my vents which is pretty damn cold!!!

If this was true then I would convert all my cars to this refrigerant. I want ice cubes coming out of my vents.

One downside to consider about Freeze 12 and any other blends is this... Simply opening the low-side valve on your system will not get all of the refridgerant out (R-12, R-134a, Freeze 12, etc.). So, when you think you've removed it all, you haven't... There's still some left.

Let's say you add a blended refridgerant, Freeze 12 for example. Now you have a little of R-12 in there, a lot of R-134a, some R-142b, and a little butane (or equivilant). Now, if one of your lines is leaking, even just a little bit, that blend is going to leak out at different rates. Picture it, like oil and water. If it's shook up and moving, it's pretty evenly distributed, but if it's sitting, they seperate. Same with blended refrigerants. So, all of the R-142b, could leak out, and leave everything else behind, or vice-versa, depending on which part of the blend reacts to what type of pressure loss (leak). In short, you could lose all of one part of the blend, and damage the system, because now you're running straight R-134a in a R-12 system, that didn't have the proper vacuum and oil charge done. Just something to think about...

Also, if you're having trouble finding an A/C shop to evacuate your system now, just wait until there's a blend in there... Licensed shops are not allowed to mix refridgerants in their recycling machines, and if they don't know that they're pumping Freeze 12 into an R-12 machine, it WILL damage the machine. R-12 machines don't like R-134a going through them.

Food for thought...

------------------
Nic

Email me at my PFF username @hotmail.com

I just got my 88 GT done at a local shop. Total cost was $ 130.00 with all supplies and new O rings. At that cost, why mess with butane ?

[This message has been edited by FIEROFROSTBITE (edited 07-18-2004).]

Nic,

You beat me to it. One thing you didn't mention, though...........

If you take your blended system to a shop to have it evacuated or serviced, don't tell them what's in there, and they put that Freeze12 or Freezone in their systems and contaminate their tanks and filters, guess who gets to pay to have the whole machine overhauled, scrubbed internally, and value of the lost refrigerant? That's right, Mr. Cheap who was trying to save a couple of bucks.

That's the reason for the change in fittings, the warining tags, and the heat shrink tube to go over the fittings on any legitimate changeover kit.

John Stricker

quote Originally posted by musicman_L7: One downside to consider about Freeze 12 and any other blends is this... Simply opening the low-side valve on your system will not get all of the refridgerant out (R-12, R-134a, Freeze 12, etc.). So, when you think you've removed it all, you haven't... There's still some left. Let's say you add a blended refridgerant, Freeze 12 for example. Now you have a little of R-12 in there, a lot of R-134a, some R-142b, and a little butane (or equivilant). Now, if one of your lines is leaking, even just a little bit, that blend is going to leak out at different rates. Picture it, like oil and water. If it's shook up and moving, it's pretty evenly distributed, but if it's sitting, they seperate. Same with blended refrigerants. So, all of the R-142b, could leak out, and leave everything else behind, or vice-versa, depending on which part of the blend reacts to what type of pressure loss (leak). In short, you could lose all of one part of the blend, and damage the system, because now you're running straight R-134a in a R-12 system, that didn't have the proper vacuum and oil charge done. Just something to think about... Also, if you're having trouble finding an A/C shop to evacuate your system now, just wait until there's a blend in there... Licensed shops are not allowed to mix refridgerants in their recycling machines, and if they don't know that they're pumping Freeze 12 into an R-12 machine, it WILL damage the machine. R-12 machines don't like R-134a going through them. Food for thought...

quote Originally posted by FIEROFROSTBITE: I just got my 88 GT done at a local shop. Total cost was $ 130.00 with all supplies and new O rings. At that cost, why mess with butane ?

At that price they must have just slapped on the $30 Interdynamics kit and not really changed over the system.

quote Originally posted by jscott1: At that price they must have just slapped on the $30 Interdynamics kit and not really changed over the system.

there was a shop down the street from me that ran a special. full r134a conversion for $134.95 or something. i believe the $130 conversion.

I thought that only happened in Frostburg!

Heres some stuff i pulled off of "autorefrigerants.com"

ES-Industrial 12a

Enviro-Safe Industrial
Refrigerant - Pressure
Temperature Chart
Temp Pressure
°F PSI
-20 6.23
-15 8.59
-10 11.16
-5 13.95
0 16.97
5 20.23
10 23.74
15 27.53
20 31.6
25 35.96
30 40.64
35 45.64
40 50.98
45 56.67
50 62.73
55 69.17
60 76.01
65 83.26
70 90.94
75 99.06
80 107.64
85 116.69
90 126.24
95 136.28
100 146.84
105 157.94
110 169.58
115 181.79
120 194.58
125 207.97
130 221.96

Extremely efficient! ENVIRO-SAFE ES-12a is up to 32% more efficient than R-12 and much more efficient than R-134a. This means less wear on your refrigeration system, substantial energy savings and reduced operating costs. With ENVIRO-SAFE the compressor will load approximately 2-3 hp only. ENVIRO-SAFE ES-12a's boiling temperature is -30.4ºF. ENVIRO-SAFE ES-12a was designed as an R-12 replacement in all R-12 applications.

Is ENVIRO-SAFE safe?

Yes! ENVIRO-SAFE is an "ENVIRONMENTALLY SAFE" organic, non-toxic, non-ozone depleting hydrocarbon compound. ENVIRO-SAFE is a hydrocarbon refrigerant and has been endorsed by GreenPeace. It is in full compliance with the UN Montreal Protocol. Like most organic materials ENVIRO-SAFE is flammable, but its ignition temperature is 1585ºF at both 5 psi and 0 psi (which is better than the DuPont R-134a's ignition temperature of 368ºF at 5 psi and 1411ºF at 0 psi). Nevertheless, a pine odor has been added to the product so that any leak in a refrigeration system can be readily detected. To locate the precise origin of a leak, it is recommended that a hydrocarbon detector be utilized. Most mid and higher priced conventional leak detectors will detect hydrocarbon refrigerants. In the alternative, either soap bubbles or ENVIRO-SAFE DYE-CHARGE can be used. ENVIRO-SAFE DYE-CHARGE is both visually detectable and responsive to black light. In a safety study, the prestigious Arthur D. Little scientists concluded that hydrocarbon refrigerants pose no significant increased risk or hazard over Freon.

ENVIRO-SAFE does not become caustic if contaminated with moisture or oxygen.

ENVIRO-SAFE is a better conductor of heat and requires less horsepower to compress, which reduces compressor wear and extends compressor life.
ENVIRO-SAFE does not require a compressor oil change.
ENVIRO-SAFE has a very low Global Warming Potential with a Zero Ozone Depletion Potential.
ENVIRO-SAFE is covered by OSHA Hazard Communication Standard.

How is ENVIRO-SAFE packaged?

ENVIRO-SAFE is available in cans (12 cans per case), 30lb. cylinders and also 50lb. cylinders.

Does ENVIRO-SAFE require retrofitting?

No! ENVIRO-SAFE is a direct drop-in R-134a replacement. It requires no retrofitting or redesigning of the refrigeration system because it is completely compatible with all the materials, hoses, O-rings, seals and oils (mineral or synthetic) in all systems. The savings can be enormous! If you have an automotive R-12 system you must change the two vehicle fittings to the 134a-sized fittings and properly remove any Freon in accordance with EPA procedures. Changing the fittings can be done easily by screwing on (over the existing R-12 fittings) 134a-sized adapter fittings. All you will need are the two 134a adapter fittings for the vehicle year and make, which should cost around $9.00. (We have them here ). You DO NOT need the $60 to $80 "134a Kit".

How do I install ENVIRO-SAFE?

There are no new procedures or techniques to learn! The same equipment and gauges are used. The refrigeration system is charged in the same manner as with the refrigerant being replaced using approximately the same pressure levels. (Note: ENVIRO-SAFE ES-12a pressure on the high side may run up to 15 psi lower than what your R-12 high side pressure normally is. The low side pressure should be the same as your R-12 low side pressure at any given ambient temp.) For those who install by weight, the equivalency ratios are: .33 lb. of ENVIRO-SAFE ES-12a is equivalent to 1 lb. of R-12; .38 lb. of ENVIRO-SAFE ES-12a is equivalent to 1 lb. or R-134a; .41 lb. of ES-22a is equivalent to 1 lb. of R-22; .40 lb. of ES-502a is equivalent to 1 lb. of R-502. ENVIRO-SAFE is completely compatible with synthetic or organic oils in all currently existing systems. No flushing or oil changes are required. The only difference is that ENVIRO-SAFE is installed as a liquid.

1 - If system is charged, check system for leaks or defective components. Replace or repair as necessary. Determine that compressor has proper amount of lubricant according to manufacturer's specifications.
2 - If desired, pull a vacuum. After pulling a vacuum of no more than 10 inches, do not charge under vacuum. ENVIRO-SAFE does not become caustic if some moisture is present. Charging under a high vacuum can result in an overcharge. Any overcharge may cause loss of cooling efficiency.
3 - Connect gauges and hoses. With compressor off, open cylinder valve or invert can to install ENVIRO-SAFE on low-pressure side of compressor (installing as a liquid will not harm the compressor). Establish flow. After an initial minimum charge is achieved, start compressor and set system to high. Continue adding ENVIRO-SAFE as needed to achieve proper pressure level according to manufacturer's specifications. DO NOT OVERCHARGE! Exceeding 60 psig on the low side may damage compressor. In some cases, clearing the site glass overcharges the unit. Any overcharge may cause loss of cooling efficiency.
4 - After verifying that the pressures and temperatures are correct, shut off compressor, disconnect gauges, install service port caps and place the ENVIRO-SAFE "stick on" tag (shipped along with each purchase) in a clearly visible area.
5 - If a system has been overcharged or has a leak and must be recharged, completely evacuate the system using reclaiming equipment (not recycling equipment) and start the charging procedure over.
Does ENVIRO-SAFE have EPA approval?

ENVIRO-SAFE is a zero ozone depleting "second generation" replacement for R-134a and all other substitutes for Freon that are non-ozone depleting. Unlike R134a, it is also non-global-warming . EPA's Final Rule, issued April 1, 1994, states:

"In this final rule, the Agency has determined that second generation replacements, if they are non-ozone depleting and are replacing non-ozone depleting first generation alternatives, are exempt from reporting requirements under Section 612"

If an automotive system is "first generation" (has 134a fittings and contains no Freon ) it may accept a "second generation" refrigerant like ENVIRO-SAFE.

Is ENVIRO-SAFE guaranteed?

ENVIRO-SAFE is guaranteed to be ozone safe and to perform as an efficient refrigerant in all systems. ENVIRO-SAFE is guaranteed to be up to 32% more efficient than Freon. ENVIRO-SAFE is guaranteed not to become caustic if contaminated with moisture and oxygen. ENVIRO-SAFE is further guaranteed not to harm air-conditioning system components or any other related mechanical equipment if installed and used according to factory directions.

------------------

my guess is that anything other than a full conversion to whatever type of freon your going to use, including changing all the o-rings, accumulator/dryer, orifice tube and a full flush of the system is just asking for a shortened life span for your a/c system.

didn't read all the replies on freeze 12, but no changes have to be made to the system, freeze 12 is loaded with old R12 hose set in old r12 hardware. have been talking about this for last several weeks, have done it in my '88, and works. while the can recommends dumping the r12 first, local parts houses state that it is not necessary to , just add to system.

I have been Using freeze 12 for about 7 years now in my Fiero. Works very good, colder than 134, heck maybe colder than R12.

Chris

------------------
'87 2.8v6 5spd

FWIW, I'm not talking from inexperience with Freeze 12, I even have it in my semi. It does work fine. It cools OK, but not as good as R-12, but not far off either. But I do all of my own A/C work. I don't have to worry abot contaminating someone else's equipment or not knowing what's in what. If I ever sell the truck, I WILL pull the freeze 12 out of it, put on the adapter fittings, add some oil, and put in 134 and label accordingly. No , that's not the right way to to it, but it's a 24 year old truck and if it works at all that's more than most 24 year old trucks will do and at least it will be labeled and fitted properly so it doesn't screw the next guy up.

John Stricker

quote Originally posted by cjgable: I have been Using freeze 12 for about 7 years now in my Fiero. Works very good, colder than 134, heck maybe colder than R12. Chris

quote Originally posted by jstricker: FWIW, I'm not talking from inexperience with Freeze 12, I even have it in my semi. It does work fine. It cools OK, but not as good as R-12, but not far off either. But I do all of my own A/C work. I don't have to worry abot contaminating someone else's equipment or not knowing what's in what. If I ever sell the truck, I WILL pull the freeze 12 out of it, put on the adapter fittings, add some oil, and put in 134 and label accordingly. No , that's not the right way to to it, but it's a 24 year old truck and if it works at all that's more than most 24 year old trucks will do and at least it will be labeled and fitted properly so it doesn't screw the next guy up. John Stricker

That's cool, I hope you didn't take it I was directing the post at you. I was just posting in response to the main thread. I hadn't read the other posts until after I posted. You insight is appreciated though.

Chris

[This message has been edited by cjgable (edited 07-19-2004).]

Okay. I know I'll likely get yelled at for this, but I have to ask.

The putz that had the car before me (or the guy before him...and so on) obviously did a shadetree job. I took my car to two shops and neither one of them will touch my a/c system because they don't know what's in it. Why, because it has both R-12 AND R134 fittings on it!!! I personally have no idea which is which or what's in there. The quote I received for switching the whole system over to R134 was $1600!!! I know to some of you, that's a drop in the bucket. Not for me. I live amongst those that live almost paycheck to paycheck. So any and all inexpensive alternatives look great.

With that said, of all the above mentioned alternatives, which one would be the easiest to do myself? I'm not a complete mechanic, but I am mechanically inclined. With detailed instructions and the right tools, I'm positive I can do it. I'm sure none of us knew how to change brake pads, install stereos, put in a new distributor, or swap out an engine until you actually did it.

I know we share ideas back and forth on here...that's what this forum is about. But if you can help me, but don't want to get flamed, PM me or send me an email. I'd rather get the best suggestions I can from people who have done it than to guess on what I should do and really screw something up.

I already know the difference between wrong and right so I don't need that moral lesson. Bottom line, when it's 90+ degrees outside and I'm sweating like a roasting pig, my morals want cool air.

Like the saying goes, "If you don't have anything nice to say, don't say anything at all"

------------------
BLADE

'86SE
Engine rblt by Jasper (Turbo or '92 Z28 V8 in 2005)
Hypertech Chip
Low-temp Fan Switch
Low-temp Thermostat
Grand Am rear brakes
215/45-17 front, 235/45-17 rear Falken Ziex ZE-502
Kenwood D-Mask Head Unit
Kenwood 859 5-ch Amp
Pioneer 4x10
Kenwood 4x6 plates
Rockford Fosgate 10" HE-2

Call me tonight after 6 west coast time and I will explain to you what to do. Sent you my # in a PM. You likely can do this for under $100.

I'm no A/C expert by far (and as you are about to find out, I'm not an ozone hugger either)...

I'd vent whatever is in there, then take it back with nothing but the factory fittings on it.

Perhaps some of the mix will still be in there... venting may not be enough to get all of it out. I'm not sure.

Found some interesting info on the web...

Quote:

VENTING CFC-12
Former California resident pleaded guilty in U.S. District Court for the Central District of California in Los Angeles on July 31 for violating the Clean Air Act. He admitted to illegally venting CFC-12 into the atmosphere at the Santa Anna, CA-based C&C Distribution. The illegal venting took place when he installed the replacement refrigerant HC-12a into automobile air conditioning systems. The EPA has prohibited the use of HC-12a as a replacement for CFC-12 in automobile A/C systems because the substance is flammable and potentially explosive. He could serve up to five years in prison and be fined as much as $250,000.

and..

"The refrigerant does not need to be extracted into EPA-approved recovery/recycling equipment: it can be extracted into homemade equipment, for example, but it must not be vented! Venting refrigerant can lead to fines of $25,000 per violation."

The last one was from an article at http://www.rvtechstop.com/articles/cfc12s.pdf Just watch out for any neighbors that don't happen to like you or something.... It would suck to get a $25,000 fine. The funny part is, there's apparently no fine for the stuff leaking out of a car over the years.. I'm "lucky" in the fact that mine had a junk compressor that all the R12 has leaked from years ago..

From what I've read on Freeze-12 it's also supposed to get a dose of ester oil to help with oil circularion