I rented a flaring kit from my local autoparts place, but can't figure out how to make the "double/bubble" flare ( I believe that is what the brake line flare is called???) Does anyone have any online guide or something as to how to make one?

I found the key to the double-flare, at least with the cheap flaring tools, was to make sure that the bevelled edge was consistent all the way around the end of the new brake line. If you've got some extra line material, try practicing on a few ends.

[This message has been edited by Stinkin_V8 (edited 07-23-2004).]

Make sure you have a metric flaring kit. Use the reamer(sp) to clean and level the end of the metal tube to be flared. Feed the metal tube up through the clamp. The kit should come with a spacer, align the top of the tube with the spacer. Remove the spacer and set the flaring tool over the metal tube. Crank it down real good and your all set.

and if you are workign on our american cars it's called and "inverted flare" and i'm not much good at it.

IIRC, brake lines use a different angle to the flare than standard. Not sure, but I'd check on that. You may need a special brake line flare tool to do the job right.

Disclaimer: Even if I'm right and a special tool is required, I'm sure some backyard mechanic has figured out a way to do it with a Swiss Army Knife and a roll of duct tape, and hasn't wrecked.... yet. I simply off this as a heads. Please do any work on brakes carefully and with the correct tools. Your safety may depend on it.

If you are using a cheap tool it is a long shot to get the flair to work correctly and seal. With a high end tool they I can make them with about a 95% success rate on the first try. I have never been succesfull with a cheap tool (I have done hundreds).

Cut the end of the line off with a tubing cutter, Find the proper size insert tip for the line you are using. The thickness od the tip is the amount that you leave sticking out past the clamp tool. Tightly clamp the line in the clamp, put the tip in the line and crush it in. Remove the tip and recrush the tip of the line again.

About now is when you realize that you left off the line fitting and you cut the line and start over again.

quote Originally posted by Electrathon: About now is when you realize that you left off the line fitting and you cut the line and start over again.

HA !

quote Originally posted by Electrathon: Tightly clamp the line in the clamp, put the tip in the line and crush it in.

Anytime I have tried to do this, it has pushed the line out of the clamp. In fact, it practically shredds the metal line. But then the "tip" is practically flat, so I can see why it does this..

quote Originally posted by ryan.hess: Anytime I have tried to do this, it has pushed the line out of the clamp. In fact, it practically shredds the metal line. But then the "tip" is practically flat, so I can see why it does this..

Get a better tool. What you described is the main problem with cheap tools. The one I have is a Snap-On. I tighten the wing nuts with a pait of pliers as tight as I can get the clamp. It puts a slight indent in the line, but hurts nothing.

If you're trying to make a bubble flare, I dont think you can with anything short of some kind of specialty tool, Ive never actualy seen one, nor can I imagine how they work. Now if you're tring to make inverted flare, kinda looks like a funnel, thats not too hard. Try getting a small pair of vice grips above the clamp, to keep the line from sliding, that or just jump down a size. You might also try torching the line, hot metal is softer, but I dont know what that would do to the line

First check for the proper size and angle of flair to be made.
Next place the line in the flairing clamp with the proper amount of line protuding on the side of clamp which has the counter sink and crank it down tightly.
Then find the correct fiting to use first, it will have a centering pin which goes in the line to maintain center of your line and tighten down the clamp till flush.
Remove the fitting used in last step and use the cone tip to press the center of the bubble made to form the double wall inside the line.

As pointed out above, DON"T FORGET THE LINE FITTING!
I've done that many times after making a perfect flair only to have to cut it off.

GL

quote Originally posted by 86GT3.4DOHC: If you're trying to make a bubble flare, I dont think you can with anything short of some kind of specialty tool, Ive never actualy seen one, nor can I imagine how they work. Now if you're tring to make inverted flare, kinda looks like a funnel, thats not too hard. Try getting a small pair of vice grips above the clamp, to keep the line from sliding, that or just jump down a size. You might also try torching the line, hot metal is softer, but I dont know what that would do to the line

So wait, can you or can you not make a dubble bubble flare with a standard metric bubble flaring kit? And is this not the proper flare found on fiero steel brake lines?

quote Originally posted by Adrift: So wait, can you or can you not make a dubble bubble flare with a standard metric bubble flaring kit? And is this not the proper flare found on fiero steel brake lines?

In what area are you working?

the flare on the steel line where it connects to the rubber line at the caliper.

quote Originally posted by Adrift: So wait, can you or can you not make a dubble bubble flare with a standard metric bubble flaring kit? And is this not the proper flare found on fiero steel brake lines?

You are not making a bubble flare, you are making a double flare. A standard flare kit is a double flare kit, that is what brake lines use. Bubble flare tools are rare (I have been working as a mechanic for about 25 years and have not seen a buble flare tool except in catalogs).