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How long could I drive around with my TCC connector disconnected? by Blade_69
Started on: 07-27-2004 10:48 PM
Replies: 19
Last post by: RickN on 07-29-2004 11:14 PM
Blade_69
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Report this Post07-27-2004 10:48 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Blade_69Send a Private Message to Blade_69Direct Link to This Post
I posted a thread earlier this year about a problem I was having with my 3sp auto.

Here's the thread in case you want to read:
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/047984.html

Anyway, I disconnected my TCC connector and the problem went away. Now my question is this. What do I need to replace? The torque convertor or the solenoid? What should I expect to pay for either and can someone that's somewhat mechanically inclined replace them or do I need to take it to a shop?

Thanks

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Report this Post07-27-2004 10:52 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ElectrathonClick Here to visit Electrathon's HomePageSend a Private Message to ElectrathonDirect Link to This Post
The solenoid is what needs to be replaced. It is under the transmission side cover. If you have about medium mechanical skill you can do it. Harder than an oil change but easier than pulling the tranny. It is a good idea to not leave it disconected. It is a slow death to the tranny.
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Report this Post07-27-2004 11:13 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RickNSend a Private Message to RickNDirect Link to This Post
I did my '85 not too many weeks ago. It cost about $60 in parts and was not too hard. My biggest suggestion would be that some had suggested that I be sure and buy the TCC solenoid from the dealer so that it would come with the connector. I found reattaching the TCC connector to the pass-thru connector on the transmission housing (the other side of the housing wall from the connector that you disconnected earlier) the worst part of the job. It would have been so much easier to cut and splice the wires than to work in that limited space and plug in the connector.

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Blade_69
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Report this Post07-27-2004 11:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Blade_69Send a Private Message to Blade_69Direct Link to This Post
So this is what I'll need? Found it at the Fiero Store.

84-88 AUTOMATIC TORQUE CONVERTER LOCK-UP SOLENOID
You may need a new torque converter solenoid if the automatic transmission in your Fiero shutters and/or stalls when you come to a stop. When the factory solenoid fails it will not disengage the torque converter and cause the shutter/stall. The solenoid is located just inside the tranny pan.

Part # 54856 | $34.95 | QTY: |




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RickN
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Report this Post07-28-2004 12:47 AM Click Here to See the Profile for RickNSend a Private Message to RickNDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Blade_69:

So this is what I'll need? Found it at the Fiero Store.

84-88 AUTOMATIC TORQUE CONVERTER LOCK-UP SOLENOID
You may need a new torque converter solenoid if the automatic transmission in your Fiero shutters and/or stalls when you come to a stop. When the factory solenoid fails it will not disengage the torque converter and cause the shutter/stall. The solenoid is located just inside the tranny pan.

Part # 54856 | $34.95 | QTY: |


Don't forget the cover gasket.

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RickN
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Report this Post07-28-2004 01:16 AM Click Here to See the Profile for buddycraiggSend a Private Message to buddycraiggDirect Link to This Post
and to answer the question of how long you can drive with it disconnected...

till you run out of gas.

you are not doing any damage to the transmission by running without the tcc hooked up.

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Report this Post07-28-2004 01:21 AM Click Here to See the Profile for OreifClick Here to visit Oreif's HomePageSend a Private Message to OreifDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Blade_69:

So this is what I'll need? Found it at the Fiero Store.

84-88 AUTOMATIC TORQUE CONVERTER LOCK-UP SOLENOID
You may need a new torque converter solenoid if the automatic transmission in your Fiero shutters and/or stalls when you come to a stop. When the factory solenoid fails it will not disengage the torque converter and cause the shutter/stall. The solenoid is located just inside the tranny pan.

Part # 54856 | $34.95 | QTY: |



The one from the Fiero Store requires you to splice in the connector as RickN described. It is NOT the OEM part. You need to get it from a Pontiac dealership. Takes about 2 hours to swap. It DOES NOT hurt the trans. The only affect it has is slightly higher RPM at highway speeds and lower gas mileage.

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Report this Post07-28-2004 07:54 AM Click Here to See the Profile for RaydarSend a Private Message to RaydarDirect Link to This Post
I put several thousand miles on my Formula with it disconnected, with no ill effects. YMMV.

I'll second the suggestion to use the GM part as opposed to the one from the Fiero store.
I've heard that this part has been through a trainload of redesigns (go figure).
If you get the solenoid from GM, you can be sure you'll get the latest attempt at getting it right.

It only took me about an hour to change mine, but that was with the cradle sitting on the floor.
I'll also second that getting the connector in and out of the pass-through connector at the top of the tranny is the most difficult part.

Clean as much crud off of the tranny as you can before you pull off the end cover. You'll be glad you did.
Use Mean Green (my degreaser of choice, but be sure you wash it all off) or Simple Green, a brush and a spray hose.

You'll do fine.

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Raydar
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Coming soon...
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[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 07-28-2004).]

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Report this Post07-28-2004 10:01 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 86fieroEarlSend a Private Message to 86fieroEarlDirect Link to This Post
Leaving it unhooked wont do anything unless your in 3rd gear alot or do a heck of alot of highway racing. The lockup only downsizes rpms at high speeds.
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Blade_69
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Report this Post07-28-2004 10:14 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Blade_69Send a Private Message to Blade_69Direct Link to This Post
Thanks for all the responses. I guess I can rest comfortably for a little bit. I only drive at about 60 (not by choice). I still have a trans leak that at speeds higher that 65, it's flows onto the manifold and causes a little smoke to come out the back. Since it seems that I'll have to drop the trans to fix that leak, I may as well wait to do the solenoid at the same time.

Hey Orief!!! You and any of the crew got any free time?!? A case of beer and a few bills are in it for ya ;-)

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Report this Post07-28-2004 10:59 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ElectrathonClick Here to visit Electrathon's HomePageSend a Private Message to ElectrathonDirect Link to This Post
The problem with leaving it unplugged is that the TCC clutch will never lock up, creating a lot of heat inside the transmission. It will not burn up your trans next week or even next month. Over time the heat will do damage to the tranny, efectively shortening it's life. It is more like the tranny will last 7 years instead of 9 years.
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Report this Post07-28-2004 01:15 PM Click Here to See the Profile for TyteheadSend a Private Message to TyteheadDirect Link to This Post
When you change the solenoid, you should change the third gear switch while you are in there also. I used an aftermarket solenoid I got at Checkers (~$30.00) however, I needed to get the third gear switch from the local pontiac dealer (~$7.00). TCC has worked fine since. Only other thing you will need is the gasket.

Good luck.

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Blade_69
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Report this Post07-28-2004 02:38 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Blade_69Send a Private Message to Blade_69Direct Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Tytehead:

When you change the solenoid, you should change the third gear switch while you are in there also. I used an aftermarket solenoid I got at Checkers (~$30.00) however, I needed to get the third gear switch from the local pontiac dealer (~$7.00). TCC has worked fine since. Only other thing you will need is the gasket.

Good luck.

Did you do it yourself?

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Tytehead
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Report this Post07-28-2004 03:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for TyteheadSend a Private Message to TyteheadDirect Link to This Post
Yes. Reviewed some threads in here and the ogre's cave and decided it was something I could do although I have limited/little experience in doing any automotive work. Jack up the car. Remove driver's side tire and the wheel liner. Remove the cover plate. Start from bottom and work up and you will get less fluid on your hands. Once the cover is off you unbolt the TCC solenoid and remove it. Pulls right out. IMy solenoid had the quick connect electrical connections so I just cut the wires, and put the solenoid back in. Did not have to fuss with the pass through connector. The third gear switch is also simple. Disconnect wires, screw old one out, new one in, reconnect wires (doesn't matter which way) and your good to go. Hardest thing for me was getting the cover back on with the new gasket properly situated. Took about an hour or so. Had to run to the pontiac dealer because I decided to change the third gear switch half way through the project.

There is a site with pictures of doing this work, can't recall it right now, have itr bookmarked at home. Having that info printed out was really helpful.

Not a very difficult project. Next I am going to try to swap out a four speed muncie. Really nervous about that.

If you have any other questions let me know. If I can find a link to the sitre I was talking about, I will come back and post it.

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Blade_69
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Report this Post07-28-2004 04:18 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Blade_69Send a Private Message to Blade_69Direct Link to This Post
You got me thinking now. I know I'm leaking trans fluid in two places. One is from the pan. The other I THOUGHT was from the front seal on the trans ($500 to repair). It may just be the gasket on that plate you mentioned that I need to take off to get to the solenoid. Hmm. I hope so.

So it's easier to splice than to worry about a pass-through connector. Orief said to get a solenoid from the dealer. You got your's from an auto parts store for what I assume a whole lot cheaper. I'm a bit confused now.

Do I:

1 - Buy one from a dealer and not have to splice
2 - Buy one from a dealer and have to splice
3 - Buy one from an auto parts store and have to splice
4 - Buy one from an auto parts store and not hav to splice.

[This message has been edited by Blade_69 (edited 07-28-2004).]

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Tytehead
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Report this Post07-28-2004 06:48 PM Click Here to See the Profile for TyteheadSend a Private Message to TyteheadDirect Link to This Post
I guess its a matter of personal preference. I have four kids under the age of eight so I do it the cheapest and quickest way I can! Someone posted above that they were still trying to improve on the solenoid, so if you want the latest and greatest you may want to go with the dealer part that requires you to fuss with the passthrough. I have had no problems with my tranny since I put in the aftermarket solenoid and my car is a daily driver. The savings is not that substantial though. In fact, IIRC, when I was looking for aftermarket solenoids, some were actually more expensive than the dealer cost listed above in the thread. Either way, I'll bet that it will work fine for another 100,000 miles.

And, regarding the auto store parts, everyone I found had to be spliced. None came with the pass through because the same solenoid is used on th 440 trannys as well as others (IIRC).

One other thing to remember is that when you are trying to locate the gasket, you are looking for the "valve cover gasket" for the transmission. That threw me off because i was thinking "valve covers...aren't they part of the engine?" But I learned that there are valve covers on trannys too!

As for Fiero and mechanical knowledge, I would defer to Orief, as I have found his information both informative and accurate in the past, and I would not even consider myself a shade tree mechanic at this point as replacing the solenoid, is probably the most invasive procedure I have performed on an engine or drive train to date, but it is only the beginning....

Again, good luck.

(Edited to add info.)

[This message has been edited by Tytehead (edited 07-28-2004).]

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Tytehead
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Report this Post07-28-2004 07:00 PM Click Here to See the Profile for TyteheadSend a Private Message to TyteheadDirect Link to This Post

Tytehead

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I found that link that walks you through the process. hope this helps.

http://www.kichline.com/chuck/fiero/TCC.htm

Kelin

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Blade_69
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Report this Post07-29-2004 09:45 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Blade_69Send a Private Message to Blade_69Direct Link to This Post
I thought I'd do a little spirited driving today. Guess what? My problem hasn't completely dissappeared. I still get that "bump" under hard deceleration when I come to a stop. This is frustrating. I may just replace the damn transmission and call it a frikkin day.
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Report this Post07-29-2004 10:54 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreDirect Link to This Post
Assuming you don't have a bad/broken mount someplace or other loose powertrain parts, what is very common... Sloppy brake parts could cause a similar feeling. Try putting the car into neutral when stopping a few times. That will unload the tranny axles etc.... Keep in mind you'll also stop somewhat shorter with the engine load removed so don't do this in traffic.

If it does turn out to be the transmission... Downshift clunking usually means some sort of internal problem. You could try checking the TV cable adjustment just to be safe but it probably won't have any effect. A fluid change may help if it is dirt related, but don't hold your breath.

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RickN
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Report this Post07-29-2004 11:14 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RickNSend a Private Message to RickNDirect Link to This Post
If I were doing mine again (on the car), I would buy the TCC solenoid from my local GM dealer which I did, but I would cut off the connector and not waste all the time I spent trying to get that connector hooked up, just splice into the original wiring. If you insist on using the new connector, I finally figured out that I could have saved time by pushing the pass-thru connector thru the transmission housing (you'll have to depress three plastic latches from inside the trans housing that hold the pass-thru in place) from inside the trans housing, then push the new connector from the inside out thru the connector hole. This allows you to make the connections (after cleaning the pass-thru connector thoroughly) outside of the trans housing where you can see it get both hands on it, and then push the pass-thru connector back into the hole until it snaps in place.

Also, I only recently learned the advantages of lowering the cradle for different tasks. Maybe someone else can comment on whether this would help make more room to work around the valve body area.

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RickN
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[This message has been edited by RickN (edited 07-29-2004).]

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