Anyway, I disconnected my TCC connector and the problem went away. Now my question is this. What do I need to replace? The torque convertor or the solenoid? What should I expect to pay for either and can someone that's somewhat mechanically inclined replace them or do I need to take it to a shop?
Thanks
------------------ BLADE '86SE Engine rblt by Jasper (Turbo or '92 Z28 V8 in 2005) Hypertech Chip Low-temp Fan Switch Low-temp Thermostat Grand Am rear brakes 215/45-17 front, 235/45-17 rear Falken Ziex ZE-502 Kenwood D-Mask Head Unit Kenwood 859 5-ch Amp Pioneer 4x10 Kenwood 4x6 plates Rockford Fosgate 10" HE-2
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10:48 PM
PFF
System Bot
Electrathon Member
Posts: 5241 From: Gresham, OR USA Registered: Dec 2002
The solenoid is what needs to be replaced. It is under the transmission side cover. If you have about medium mechanical skill you can do it. Harder than an oil change but easier than pulling the tranny. It is a good idea to not leave it disconected. It is a slow death to the tranny.
I did my '85 not too many weeks ago. It cost about $60 in parts and was not too hard. My biggest suggestion would be that some had suggested that I be sure and buy the TCC solenoid from the dealer so that it would come with the connector. I found reattaching the TCC connector to the pass-thru connector on the transmission housing (the other side of the housing wall from the connector that you disconnected earlier) the worst part of the job. It would have been so much easier to cut and splice the wires than to work in that limited space and plug in the connector.
------------------ RickN White 88GT 5spd White 85GT Auto
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11:13 PM
Blade_69 Member
Posts: 394 From: Chicago, IL, USA Registered: Jul 2002
So this is what I'll need? Found it at the Fiero Store.
84-88 AUTOMATIC TORQUE CONVERTER LOCK-UP SOLENOID You may need a new torque converter solenoid if the automatic transmission in your Fiero shutters and/or stalls when you come to a stop. When the factory solenoid fails it will not disengage the torque converter and cause the shutter/stall. The solenoid is located just inside the tranny pan.
So this is what I'll need? Found it at the Fiero Store.
84-88 AUTOMATIC TORQUE CONVERTER LOCK-UP SOLENOID You may need a new torque converter solenoid if the automatic transmission in your Fiero shutters and/or stalls when you come to a stop. When the factory solenoid fails it will not disengage the torque converter and cause the shutter/stall. The solenoid is located just inside the tranny pan.
Part # 54856 | $34.95 | QTY: |
Don't forget the cover gasket.
------------------ RickN White 88GT 5spd White 85GT Auto
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12:47 AM
buddycraigg Member
Posts: 13620 From: kansas city, mo Registered: Jul 2002
So this is what I'll need? Found it at the Fiero Store.
84-88 AUTOMATIC TORQUE CONVERTER LOCK-UP SOLENOID You may need a new torque converter solenoid if the automatic transmission in your Fiero shutters and/or stalls when you come to a stop. When the factory solenoid fails it will not disengage the torque converter and cause the shutter/stall. The solenoid is located just inside the tranny pan.
Part # 54856 | $34.95 | QTY: |
The one from the Fiero Store requires you to splice in the connector as RickN described. It is NOT the OEM part. You need to get it from a Pontiac dealership. Takes about 2 hours to swap. It DOES NOT hurt the trans. The only affect it has is slightly higher RPM at highway speeds and lower gas mileage.
------------------ Happiness isn't around the corner... Happiness IS the corner.
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01:21 AM
Raydar Member
Posts: 41113 From: Carrollton GA. Out in the... country. Registered: Oct 1999
I put several thousand miles on my Formula with it disconnected, with no ill effects. YMMV.
I'll second the suggestion to use the GM part as opposed to the one from the Fiero store. I've heard that this part has been through a trainload of redesigns (go figure). If you get the solenoid from GM, you can be sure you'll get the latest attempt at getting it right.
It only took me about an hour to change mine, but that was with the cradle sitting on the floor. I'll also second that getting the connector in and out of the pass-through connector at the top of the tranny is the most difficult part.
Clean as much crud off of the tranny as you can before you pull off the end cover. You'll be glad you did. Use Mean Green (my degreaser of choice, but be sure you wash it all off) or Simple Green, a brush and a spray hose.
You'll do fine.
------------------ Raydar 88 3.4 coupe........... Coming soon... 88 Formula, presently under the knife. Read Nealz Nuze!
[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 07-28-2004).]
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07:54 AM
86fieroEarl Member
Posts: 2203 From: Orlando, FL Registered: Jun 2002
Leaving it unhooked wont do anything unless your in 3rd gear alot or do a heck of alot of highway racing. The lockup only downsizes rpms at high speeds.
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10:01 AM
Blade_69 Member
Posts: 394 From: Chicago, IL, USA Registered: Jul 2002
Thanks for all the responses. I guess I can rest comfortably for a little bit. I only drive at about 60 (not by choice). I still have a trans leak that at speeds higher that 65, it's flows onto the manifold and causes a little smoke to come out the back. Since it seems that I'll have to drop the trans to fix that leak, I may as well wait to do the solenoid at the same time.
Hey Orief!!! You and any of the crew got any free time?!? A case of beer and a few bills are in it for ya ;-)
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10:14 AM
Electrathon Member
Posts: 5241 From: Gresham, OR USA Registered: Dec 2002
The problem with leaving it unplugged is that the TCC clutch will never lock up, creating a lot of heat inside the transmission. It will not burn up your trans next week or even next month. Over time the heat will do damage to the tranny, efectively shortening it's life. It is more like the tranny will last 7 years instead of 9 years.
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10:59 AM
PFF
System Bot
Tytehead Member
Posts: 873 From: Pewaukee, WI, USA Registered: Mar 2004
When you change the solenoid, you should change the third gear switch while you are in there also. I used an aftermarket solenoid I got at Checkers (~$30.00) however, I needed to get the third gear switch from the local pontiac dealer (~$7.00). TCC has worked fine since. Only other thing you will need is the gasket.
Good luck.
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01:15 PM
Blade_69 Member
Posts: 394 From: Chicago, IL, USA Registered: Jul 2002
When you change the solenoid, you should change the third gear switch while you are in there also. I used an aftermarket solenoid I got at Checkers (~$30.00) however, I needed to get the third gear switch from the local pontiac dealer (~$7.00). TCC has worked fine since. Only other thing you will need is the gasket.
Good luck.
Did you do it yourself?
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02:38 PM
Tytehead Member
Posts: 873 From: Pewaukee, WI, USA Registered: Mar 2004
Yes. Reviewed some threads in here and the ogre's cave and decided it was something I could do although I have limited/little experience in doing any automotive work. Jack up the car. Remove driver's side tire and the wheel liner. Remove the cover plate. Start from bottom and work up and you will get less fluid on your hands. Once the cover is off you unbolt the TCC solenoid and remove it. Pulls right out. IMy solenoid had the quick connect electrical connections so I just cut the wires, and put the solenoid back in. Did not have to fuss with the pass through connector. The third gear switch is also simple. Disconnect wires, screw old one out, new one in, reconnect wires (doesn't matter which way) and your good to go. Hardest thing for me was getting the cover back on with the new gasket properly situated. Took about an hour or so. Had to run to the pontiac dealer because I decided to change the third gear switch half way through the project.
There is a site with pictures of doing this work, can't recall it right now, have itr bookmarked at home. Having that info printed out was really helpful.
Not a very difficult project. Next I am going to try to swap out a four speed muncie. Really nervous about that.
If you have any other questions let me know. If I can find a link to the sitre I was talking about, I will come back and post it.
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03:22 PM
Blade_69 Member
Posts: 394 From: Chicago, IL, USA Registered: Jul 2002
You got me thinking now. I know I'm leaking trans fluid in two places. One is from the pan. The other I THOUGHT was from the front seal on the trans ($500 to repair). It may just be the gasket on that plate you mentioned that I need to take off to get to the solenoid. Hmm. I hope so.
So it's easier to splice than to worry about a pass-through connector. Orief said to get a solenoid from the dealer. You got your's from an auto parts store for what I assume a whole lot cheaper. I'm a bit confused now.
Do I:
1 - Buy one from a dealer and not have to splice 2 - Buy one from a dealer and have to splice 3 - Buy one from an auto parts store and have to splice 4 - Buy one from an auto parts store and not hav to splice.
[This message has been edited by Blade_69 (edited 07-28-2004).]
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04:18 PM
Tytehead Member
Posts: 873 From: Pewaukee, WI, USA Registered: Mar 2004
I guess its a matter of personal preference. I have four kids under the age of eight so I do it the cheapest and quickest way I can! Someone posted above that they were still trying to improve on the solenoid, so if you want the latest and greatest you may want to go with the dealer part that requires you to fuss with the passthrough. I have had no problems with my tranny since I put in the aftermarket solenoid and my car is a daily driver. The savings is not that substantial though. In fact, IIRC, when I was looking for aftermarket solenoids, some were actually more expensive than the dealer cost listed above in the thread. Either way, I'll bet that it will work fine for another 100,000 miles.
And, regarding the auto store parts, everyone I found had to be spliced. None came with the pass through because the same solenoid is used on th 440 trannys as well as others (IIRC).
One other thing to remember is that when you are trying to locate the gasket, you are looking for the "valve cover gasket" for the transmission. That threw me off because i was thinking "valve covers...aren't they part of the engine?" But I learned that there are valve covers on trannys too!
As for Fiero and mechanical knowledge, I would defer to Orief, as I have found his information both informative and accurate in the past, and I would not even consider myself a shade tree mechanic at this point as replacing the solenoid, is probably the most invasive procedure I have performed on an engine or drive train to date, but it is only the beginning....
Again, good luck.
(Edited to add info.)
[This message has been edited by Tytehead (edited 07-28-2004).]
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06:48 PM
Tytehead Member
Posts: 873 From: Pewaukee, WI, USA Registered: Mar 2004
I thought I'd do a little spirited driving today. Guess what? My problem hasn't completely dissappeared. I still get that "bump" under hard deceleration when I come to a stop. This is frustrating. I may just replace the damn transmission and call it a frikkin day.
Assuming you don't have a bad/broken mount someplace or other loose powertrain parts, what is very common... Sloppy brake parts could cause a similar feeling. Try putting the car into neutral when stopping a few times. That will unload the tranny axles etc.... Keep in mind you'll also stop somewhat shorter with the engine load removed so don't do this in traffic.
If it does turn out to be the transmission... Downshift clunking usually means some sort of internal problem. You could try checking the TV cable adjustment just to be safe but it probably won't have any effect. A fluid change may help if it is dirt related, but don't hold your breath.
------------------ The only thing George Orwell got wrong was the year.
If I were doing mine again (on the car), I would buy the TCC solenoid from my local GM dealer which I did, but I would cut off the connector and not waste all the time I spent trying to get that connector hooked up, just splice into the original wiring. If you insist on using the new connector, I finally figured out that I could have saved time by pushing the pass-thru connector thru the transmission housing (you'll have to depress three plastic latches from inside the trans housing that hold the pass-thru in place) from inside the trans housing, then push the new connector from the inside out thru the connector hole. This allows you to make the connections (after cleaning the pass-thru connector thoroughly) outside of the trans housing where you can see it get both hands on it, and then push the pass-thru connector back into the hole until it snaps in place.
Also, I only recently learned the advantages of lowering the cradle for different tasks. Maybe someone else can comment on whether this would help make more room to work around the valve body area.
------------------ RickN White 88GT 5spd White 85GT Auto
[This message has been edited by RickN (edited 07-29-2004).]