How would I use a factory panel such as a Quarter panel, or a nose for a mold to make another of the same panel ?

Using the factory one as a mold, and keeping it in good condition... ?

I've got the fiberglass resin, and the fhardener, acid brushes and mixing cups... But how would I go about fabricating a whole new panel from the current one (once its removed of course)...

Any tips / pointers on fiberglassing here ?

~Tim

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White 87 Coupe in sig. 4 Sale

AIM: Fierofreek8488

*** If you can't trust your fiero community, who can you trust... ***

you can make a plug using plaser of paris and some burlap for reinforcement. usually this method is a one use only type deal for smaller parts but i could see it working for a fender.
fiberglass plugs are also a good way to go if you plan on making a large mold or a more than one off mold.

There is a good tutorial on mold making at http://www.hotrodder.com/32Blowpar/page10.html

Make sure you measure carefully. Too much hardener and the mold will heat up and distort the part, ruin the gel coat, etc. Too little and it will never cure.

Also, it is better to make the mold with the part on the vehicle if possible. The mold will be heavier and more rigid than the part. If it isn't supported properly you will make a distorted mold, then your parts will not fit and/or look bad.

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Rick Lord
http://www.KingdomCustoms.com

Check this page. One of the most informative articles I've read.

http://www.fibreglast.com/content.php?URLID=170&source=goog&keyword=mold+making

BuMp

Its hard to keep it from messing up the factory part. I used PARTALL mold release wax and my painted parts had minor but visible damage.

Put wax on master mold. Then the surfaces you want to copy w/ a tooling gelcoat. Let the gelcoat set for a while then add layers of fiberglass resin and matting cloth. Do not seperate the master and mold until everything is dry. You will need plastic wedges to seperate the parts.

After the mold is made- you can layer whatever material to make your parts onto it.
Plastics & Urethanes are friendly to molds. Epoxies fiberlass etc arent.
You can also use talc on top of the wax to aid in mold seperation.

Hey good luck dude-
I sold a panel to Blozsinsky in PA-dont copy it!!! Or castration may occur...
OUT>

[This message has been edited by G-Nasty (edited 11-04-2004).]

Making some doors......are we .....

I would think a complete door would be rigid enough to make a good mold off of. Dont just remove the skin and try it. When you have the mold done and lay the glass cloth, make sure you dont make any joints like where the window frame meets the door top. Joints will be a weak spot. run the glass the full length at the front and back with one continuous piece and it will be less likely to crack there. Also after you put a layer down and it hardens, lay a piece of moly tube down the front and rear post and lay the next layers over that. It will really be strong that way.

Dunno when I'll get o this stuff, I've got cradle bolt issues at the moment... its on a thread in the tech. scetion "stock engine"

We'll see how that turns out... then hopefully tackly this project... making a few parts (maybe a few with saleen s7 basis to them... who knows...)

~Tim

O, and a BuMp...