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Consider the lowly power window switch... by JazzMan
Started on: 04-09-2004 12:51 AM
Replies: 40
Last post by: Jncomutt on 02-18-2005 04:42 PM
JazzMan
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Report this Post04-09-2004 12:51 AM Click Here to See the Profile for JazzManSend a Private Message to JazzManDirect Link to This Post
This is an easy repair, even I could do it, and it has a lot of bang for the buck.

A power window switch, driver's side:


Use a small flat-blade screwdriver to gently pry the side away from the circuit board so that the circuit board will release and start to tilt out:


Once it starts to come out grab it to keep it from popping out of control, else little springs will fly everywhere:


This is what awaits you. Yech!


The various parts, note the orientation of the switch terminals as you disassemble the switch, so that you can reassemble it in the correct orientation:


After a trip through some solvent-soaked towels, note the dark oxidation discoloration and the pitting on the terminal contacts:


A couple of minutes of work with some 2000 sandpaper, though any fine grade will work and so will a Dremel with a wire brush:


(to be continued)

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JazzMan
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Report this Post04-09-2004 12:53 AM Click Here to See the Profile for JazzManSend a Private Message to JazzManDirect Link to This Post
(continued)

Nice and shiny, the big dimple is wear, but it won't present a problem for now, the main thing is to get rid of the oxidation:


The sliders are as good as new!


The only grease I had handy at the house for this write up, it's actually going to be used on my brake sliders, but you know what they say, any grease in a storm.


Insert the plastic carrier and the two springs, they only go in one way:


(to be continued...)

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JazzMan
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Report this Post04-09-2004 12:54 AM Click Here to See the Profile for JazzManSend a Private Message to JazzManDirect Link to This Post

JazzMan

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(continued)

My favorite automotive tool, the trusty paper clip. Bend it into a U as shown and run it through the notches in the side of the switch housing to retain the two sliders:


Lube up the contacts, a little goes a long way:


Remembering the orientation of the switch terminal board, snap it back into place:

Pull the paper clip out, you're good to go!

Man, between picture posting limits and flood control cutoffs, I didn't think I'd ever get this posted.

JazzMan

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SplineZ
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Report this Post04-09-2004 12:59 AM Click Here to See the Profile for SplineZClick Here to visit SplineZ's HomePageSend a Private Message to SplineZDirect Link to This Post
you rock! thanks

James Z

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Report this Post04-09-2004 01:07 AM Click Here to See the Profile for silver86seSend a Private Message to silver86seDirect Link to This Post
..bows to statue of fiero god........Thank you almighty jazzman fiero god of the road............and humbly crawls away..................................................jazzman as always your are tops..............
................cant give another plus +++++++++++++..................
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JazzMan
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Report this Post04-09-2004 01:18 AM Click Here to See the Profile for JazzManSend a Private Message to JazzManDirect Link to This Post
Heck, if you find this useful you can always buy me a frozen Margarita at the swap meet.

JazzMan

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Report this Post04-09-2004 01:30 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 2000RagTopSend a Private Message to 2000RagTopDirect Link to This Post
Thank you for taking your time to show this.......Thanks,

Michael

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*** *** *** *** *** * "If you appreciate my contribution,..please rate me, Thanks"* *** *** *** *** ***

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Report this Post04-09-2004 04:02 AM Click Here to See the Profile for SplineZClick Here to visit SplineZ's HomePageSend a Private Message to SplineZDirect Link to This Post
takes about 10min a switch to thru-outly clean the switch, clean contacts, and reassemble. (i did both tonite) Definatly easier than rippin out your door guts!

While your at it, pop off the top part of the switch and clean the garbage thats collected there.. mine was absolutly disgusting... hahah

James Z

[This message has been edited by SplineZ (edited 04-09-2004).]

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jelly2m8
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Report this Post04-09-2004 04:25 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jelly2m8Send a Private Message to jelly2m8Direct Link to This Post
Good post Jazz ( as usual ) Did you find any difference in window speed after cleaning the switch?
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maryjane
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Report this Post04-09-2004 08:46 AM Click Here to See the Profile for maryjaneSend a Private Message to maryjaneDirect Link to This Post
Do I ever feel dumb. I've taken a bunch of those apart. Get ready to put them back together, and do the balancing act with the springs & slides, and hope it all stays in while I snap the board in.
A PAPER CLIP!!!! Ah---- Kain't----- Believe!!!! You & Phil are just Fiero Gurus Extrodinaire-that's all there is to it. Is the house next door to you for sale by chance??

------------------
Semper Fi
1. 84 SE auto
2. 84 SE 4 spd

[This message has been edited by maryjane (edited 04-09-2004).]

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Jeremiah
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Report this Post04-09-2004 10:58 AM Click Here to See the Profile for JeremiahSend a Private Message to JeremiahDirect Link to This Post
Jazzman, you are awesome.
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Report this Post04-09-2004 12:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for rodmcneillSend a Private Message to rodmcneillDirect Link to This Post
Good write up, thanks! Is there a certain type of grease that you can use for electrical contacts?
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Report this Post04-09-2004 01:09 PM Click Here to See the Profile for SplineZClick Here to visit SplineZ's HomePageSend a Private Message to SplineZDirect Link to This Post
Jazzman mentioned in another thread that di-electric grease would be the perfect solution.. but most any grease as long as its not conductive will work fine.. You dont need any shorts do ya? hehe

James Z

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Report this Post04-09-2004 01:36 PM Click Here to See the Profile for buddycraiggSend a Private Message to buddycraiggDirect Link to This Post
it's funny i just did this last night to an indy.
too bad it didn't help the speed of the windows.
and the paper clip trick is great. i use allen wrenches because i can never find a paperclip.
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Report this Post04-09-2004 02:17 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JacobHaleySend a Private Message to JacobHaleyDirect Link to This Post
Here is a cross-reference for this topic.

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/040200.html

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JazzMan
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Report this Post04-10-2004 12:02 AM Click Here to See the Profile for JazzManSend a Private Message to JazzManDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by jelly2m8:

Good post Jazz ( as usual ) Did you find any difference in window speed after cleaning the switch?


Yep, it doubled. It's still a tad slower than new I suspect, but now it take about 7-8 seconds full up or down compared to the old 20-22 seconds.

JazzMan

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Report this Post04-10-2004 12:31 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jelly2m8Send a Private Message to jelly2m8Direct Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by JazzMan:

Yep, it doubled. It's still a tad slower than new I suspect, but now it take about 7-8 seconds full up or down compared to the old 20-22 seconds.

JazzMan

Cool, I'll pull mine tomorrow and tear it apart.

I replaced the drivers door on my T-Top the other week, and went over the window regulator and tracks with a fine tooth comb.

I found 2 rollers that had flat spots on them,and the rest didn't spin freely. I replaced the flat spotted rollers, and freed them all up that they spun nice, but the window was as slow as ever. Maybe cleaning up the switchs will do the trick.

One thing about the T-Top cars is that you need to have a little more inboard window pressure, and have the window run a little higher up than the non -T Top ones. This doesn't help the window speed any as it does have to work a little harder.

[This message has been edited by jelly2m8 (edited 04-10-2004).]

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Report this Post06-27-2004 06:59 AM Click Here to See the Profile for topcatSend a Private Message to topcatDirect Link to This Post
My window were really slow and the gray rockers on top were badly oxidized, so I decided to just replace the whole switch. After replacing them, I decided to take a look at the insides of the old switches because I remembered this thread. My old switches looked worse than Jazzman's pics in this thread. I cleaned them up, and put them back together. However I still would not use them because of the dirty oxidized gray rocker on top.

Sooooo.... I decided to try wet sanding and polishing them. I first used a 1500, then 2000 grit paper. I followed that with a polishing compound, then regular car wax applied with the buffing pad attachment on a dremel. The results were amazing; they look nearly new.

Anyone want to buy some window switches real cheap?

Thanks Jazz... You already had a positive, so I can not give you another.

[This message has been edited by topcat (edited 06-27-2004).]

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Report this Post06-27-2004 08:48 AM Click Here to See the Profile for LZeitgeistSend a Private Message to LZeitgeistDirect Link to This Post
Wow, excellent tutorial!!

Thanks for taking the time to take pics and post them... that probably tripled the time it took you to do all this.

------------------
Patrick W. Heinske -- LZeitgeist@aol.com
1988 Red Fiero Formula Convertible

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Report this Post06-27-2004 01:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Arns85GTSend a Private Message to Arns85GTDirect Link to This Post
Great tutorial and great pics. Thankyou so very much.

That is a lock

Arn

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Report this Post06-27-2004 02:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for zMacKSend a Private Message to zMacKDirect Link to This Post
This is a great post! Made my sticky switches feel like new. Took me like 3 hours

Be carefull ... I put one of my switches together backwards... opps
Still works but its kinda weird... lol

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Report this Post06-27-2004 03:03 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ReregSend a Private Message to ReregDirect Link to This Post
very informative...thanks!
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Report this Post06-27-2004 06:06 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreDirect Link to This Post
Good pictures etc. I have to do mine again sometime soon. The location makes them collect crap no matter how careful you are.

The only thing I worry a bit about is your grease choice. Many greases, even high temp ones, don't hold up for electrical contacts. They can actually burn when the contacts open. (There is a fairly large amount of current in that switch.) It isn't usually a fire hazard but the burnt grease will stop the switch working. If you end up having trouble, try a silicone grease. I'm not sure if "Lamp socket" grease will work.

Something else that helps.... scratch a mark in the board and the switch body so you can easily figure out which way it goes in. Makes it much easier if you get called away in the middle of them.

Many of the switches can be taken apart for cleaning using similar procedures. The only ones that are a real pain are the lighted ones. The way they are configured makes them hard to get apart without unsoldering the lamp in many of them.

------------------
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Report this Post06-27-2004 09:07 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 87convertSend a Private Message to 87convertDirect Link to This Post
On a recent trip to the junkyard I found some power window switches from an F body with the same mounting as ours but the button has a raised and depressed area on it indicating which way is up and down. Besides replacing my cracked/faded buttons now they look a little more up to date. They fell right in after removing the original buttons.
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Report this Post08-01-2004 11:02 AM Click Here to See the Profile for blackmagicClick Here to visit blackmagic's HomePageSend a Private Message to blackmagicDirect Link to This Post
hey that helps some, good job
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Report this Post08-01-2004 12:51 PM Click Here to See the Profile for TaurusThugSend a Private Message to TaurusThugDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by 87convert:

On a recent trip to the junkyard I found some power window switches from an F body with the same mounting as ours but the button has a raised and depressed area on it indicating which way is up and down. Besides replacing my cracked/faded buttons now they look a little more up to date. They fell right in after removing the original buttons.

what generation/year fbody was it??? i know that 3rd gen fbody has teh same style but ive never seen a raised/depressed section on the button...

------------------
'86 Fiero GT

www.KylesFiero.tk www.XoticRydz.tk

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Report this Post08-11-2004 03:12 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 24ballSend a Private Message to 24ballDirect Link to This Post
Worked great! Thanks.
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Report this Post10-11-2004 10:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for stalen88GTSend a Private Message to stalen88GTDirect Link to This Post
I completed my switch cleaning tonight and your example was exemplary; a + for your help and my windows do roll up faster than before. Not stellar, but they of course are not these new systems.
Galen
EDIT: will provide a + after my thirty day waiting period.
------------------
Make it FAST or don't make it
LITTLE RED BOMB
www.velocityaircraft.com

[This message has been edited by stalen88GT (edited 10-11-2004).]

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Report this Post10-11-2004 11:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for California KidSend a Private Message to California KidDirect Link to This Post
JazzMan, just wanted to comment that this thread was an excellent post !!! If I hadn't put new switches in my car a few years back, I would have followed your directions. It's posts like this that will earn a member positive rating, too bad I can't rate your twice.

------------------

Car History: https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/025670.html

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JazzMan
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Report this Post10-11-2004 11:47 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JazzManSend a Private Message to JazzManDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by California Kid:

JazzMan, just wanted to comment that this thread was an excellent post !!! If I hadn't put new switches in my car a few years back, I would have followed your directions. It's posts like this that will earn a member positive rating, too bad I can't rate your twice.

I appreciate the kind comments. I don't do what I do for the ratings, I do it because it's nice to see others benefit from my actions.

JazzMan

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Report this Post10-12-2004 07:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for TG oreiF 8891Send a Private Message to TG oreiF 8891Direct Link to This Post
Great post, you saved me $50. I just wanted to add that it looks like either switch could be used for either side of the car. While following your great advice I noticed the parts are all the same; the only difference is which way the circuit board is inserted into the housing.

Tom

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Report this Post10-14-2004 08:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Jake_2m4Send a Private Message to Jake_2m4Direct Link to This Post
I did this about 10 minutes ago. I broke one of the springs inside of the switch. HAHAHA So I cut a rectractable pen sping and it works pretty well now. In case anyone loses their spring you might want to try it.
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Report this Post11-15-2004 09:59 PM Click Here to See the Profile for USFieroSend a Private Message to USFieroDirect Link to This Post
<BUMP> this is a great thread! good idea to mark the body and the board since I'm painting the switches while I have them apart for the daughter's car that fake anodized yellow for her. I already blew the bux on mine, but there were holes in the switch there...

------------------
Custom 85 under construction, 87 Coupe in the driveway. I need parts!

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Report this Post11-15-2004 10:30 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fastblackSend a Private Message to fastblackDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by JazzMan:


I appreciate the kind comments. I don't do what I do for the ratings, I do it because it's nice to see others benefit from my actions.

JazzMan


gave ya a positive anyway...pics were great help

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Report this Post01-02-2005 11:38 AM Click Here to See the Profile for AncasterSend a Private Message to AncasterDirect Link to This Post
Wasnt a 100% fix to slow windows but definatly made a vast improvment thanks Jazzy
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Report this Post01-02-2005 12:40 PM Click Here to See the Profile for David DeVoeSend a Private Message to David DeVoeDirect Link to This Post
Great post Jazzman.....did some spares that I had, also wet sanded and buffed the rockers, darn things look like new. Now I hope I didn't turn the guts around on one of them. What will happen if I did?
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Report this Post01-02-2005 01:02 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreDirect Link to This Post
The switch will work backwards.... You push down window goes up. Direction is hard wired onto the little board.
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Report this Post02-02-2005 10:16 AM Click Here to See the Profile for USFieroSend a Private Message to USFieroDirect Link to This Post
Here's a BUMP o keep it near the top. Just did the switches for the 87, painted the rockers with Duplicolor Color Cast Yellow. I'm glad I am only doing very small peices with this stuff, it doesn't look like anodized metal as much as I'd like. So far it's just the window rollup, overhead light switches the metal bezel behind the speedo cover and the center vents. I have a set of door tabs I've considered painting and sending to Oreif for detailed paint.
Anyway, back to this thread. If you drop the switch parts, the way to tell the orientation of the circuit board is that one of the electrical connectors must be on the end where the number 1 or 2 appears. I didn't have electrical cleaner around, but I used some spray lube to soften the gook inside the switch and an old toothbrush to scrub the innards with a little metal polish (I suppose toothpaste would work) and once again with the lube to claen it. I had some light bulb grease around the garage to reassemble the switches. The warning I wanted to put out there was that if you kept your switches in the garage and it's 20° outside you may want to let them get up to room temperature first. I broke the housing on one of my used switches, dang it.

------------------
John DuRette
***Custom 85 under construction, 87 Coupe in the driveway. The fun never ends!***

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Report this Post02-02-2005 11:00 AM Click Here to See the Profile for KohburnSend a Private Message to KohburnDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by 87convert:

On a recent trip to the junkyard I found some power window switches from an F body with the same mounting as ours but the button has a raised and depressed area on it indicating which way is up and down. Besides replacing my cracked/faded buttons now they look a little more up to date. They fell right in after removing the original buttons.

more specific please - I like the raised and depressed buttons

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Report this Post02-02-2005 02:13 PM Click Here to See the Profile for musicman_L7Send a Private Message to musicman_L7Direct Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Kohburn:


more specific please - I like the raised and depressed buttons

If I remember correctly, the 1991 Camaro RS that I used to have, had the buttons described above. But, that particular year, used yellow writing on the radio, cruise stalk, switches, etc... I'm not sure if all of the '91s had the yellow, or just some of them, but I know it did have the "raised" buttons.

------------------
Nic

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