I forgot to ask, what are you doing for a muffler? Im thinking about trying to keep it in the stock location and take it right out of the manifold, and weld straight into the side of the muffler, then block off the stock inlet
I bought a second front manifold and plan to flip it over and use it on the other side. I'll have to make another crossover but it will allow my exhaust to be routed like the stock 2.8.
Great job so far, Roy
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09:03 AM
Jul 17th, 2004
86GT3.4DOHC Member
Posts: 10007 From: Marion Ohio Registered: Apr 2004
Well I test fitted it, I think 6 times today. I almost broke my fastback clip too, one of the strut towers fell outward as I was lowering it, and I didnt notice until I couldnt figure out why the car wasnt sitting down all the way Its was okay though
Im kinda worried about decklid clearance, the engine is sitting pretty high in the rear. Has anyone had problems with this on a stock mounting setup?
For the cooling system: My other hoses fell throughm they looked right, but did not fit, heres what I have now. Coolant return:advance auto parts #D70923(CS) Almost a perfect fit
Heater return: Blocked off, as Im using an 88, which merges with the pass coolant pipe. 1/2 pipe plug Coolant output: in process Heater output(from engine) I will use some bent 5/8 line to connect up these pieces I cut, then a little straight piece to connect it to the engine
Im making the fuel lines, they will run to the drivers side....oh crap... lol, this literaly just dawned on me.... I was going to make hard lines to the drivers strut tower, then soft to the engine, but the mockup is in an 86, and the 88s are diffrent. crap. how much diffrece is there??
I've got to go back to the junkyard and get a new set of vacuum lines, I found out today that someone has just rigged these, they dont run to the right places.
I've figured out the exaust, im going to get a flowmaster, then mount it "upsidedown" that is with the outlets at the bottom, rather than the top. I'll then put studs in the manifold, as space will not permit bolts, and weld the flange onto the mufflerand weld the.... no *evil laugh...(this just dawned on me too, lol) put a cutout valve on the inlet, so when I open it, it will be straight pipe, and just bolt the muffler right to the manifold, then I'll have to do some minor reworking to the exaust tips to make them go straight out, instead of over, down, over then out.
Im still trying to figure out how to make the friggin wiring fit, the rewiring was the easy part, cramming it all in there is the hard part. Im going to have to remove the RS connector, then mount the ECM under the battery, or possibly in the wheel well.
As you can see in the pics, I figured out how much to cut the pass decklid hinge to make the engine fit. Pretty much everything below the saftey strap. And I still dont know if it will fit with the timing belt cover. I do not however understand why people think you have to remove the decklid springs to install this engine. The front 2 holes, the med and heavy holes, are still intact.
And the dogbone is going in pretty much the stock location, im going to weld a bracket to the engine lift point, but I'll have to replumb the vacum system, as the main distrubution block is in the way, not that big of a deal as its trashed already.
As you can see, I didnt get much of anything done today, but I did figure out a lot of stuff.....
[This message has been edited by 86GT3.4DOHC (edited 07-17-2004).]
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03:17 AM
mrfixit58 Member
Posts: 3330 From: Seffner, Fl, USA Registered: Jul 99
Well I went back to the just yard today and made off with some goodies. New vacuum hoses, throttle linkage, and fuel lines
I also think I found my driver side coolant hose, but I have not had time to check it, Ill post the part number if it works
I managed to get the RS connector removed, I made complete plans, so when I finalize them, I'll post them with complete details so everyone can follow.
I also found some new fuel lines at the junk yard, these have threaded fittings instead of molded line, this will make it a lot easier.
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01:02 AM
Jul 19th, 2004
86GT3.4DOHC Member
Posts: 10007 From: Marion Ohio Registered: Apr 2004
Those threaded fuel lines are a godsend. They output right where the steel and rubber met on the other lines, and allow me to use the stock 2.8 rubber hoses, and this leaves me only 12" short of being able to use all stock componets. Im either going to use a little steel to make it fit, or I'll just get some longer rubber to attach to the tank.
The new driver side coolant hose I found fits. I forget the number, but I'll get it and post all the hoses I used, the radiator hoses fit stock, no mods neccesary, so that'll be nice for future DOHC'ers to know. The heater I made, but its real simple. I'll explain it all in detail soon.
I also finalized the RS removal, and will post details soon. Along with this, I also removed the oil dipstick, and determined where to bend it. I hope to have the handle a little behind the slave cly, so I can at least check the oil without dropping the engine, lol. I may even make up some kind of hose and funnel get-up so I can add oil through the dipstick. Im going to need to have a 4 Qt container on it, as im not going to stand around and wait on oil to drain through a 1/4" pipe.
Ive got the vacuum system repaire to stock so I can start modifying it tomorrow. Nothing to complicated there. I will though run the brake booster around the pass side of the engine bay, where the heater hose would run on a pre 88. Im going to rip the steel line that runs under the center console out of a spare car, and make it work.
You guys sure are being quiet, not a lot of replies. Or is a DOHC swap just getting to be old news??
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01:07 AM
normsf Member
Posts: 1682 From: mishawaka, In Registered: Oct 2003
Hello, Just enjoying your thread, not being too quiet. Weve done a few here and there all different depending on the years involved. Seems as people have very good different solutions to overcome the same problems, Im always learning something here. I would like to try a turbo next we already have used a Halteck ecm, that was a lot of work. Thanks Norm from www.normsfiberglass.com
------------------ Norm Vandermee
[This message has been edited by normsf (edited 07-19-2004).]
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01:51 AM
Darth Fiero Member
Posts: 5921 From: Waterloo, Indiana Registered: Oct 2002
Hope the 3.4 DOHC swaps aren't getting old. These engines really fit the personality of the Fiero so well, especially with manual trans. Good luck and keep plugging away it is looking good!
------------------ power corrupts. absolute power corrupts absolutely.
Just enjoying reading about your swap. You seem to be sorting things out great and banging along at a great pace. I must get back to mine sometime, maybe tomorrow (yawn..). I HATE that code 42 I got, just not in the mood for it right now. Keep us posted though, looking good.
Loking good! Where did you get those threaded fuel lines from?? I've been thinking for the last few days on how I was going to tie into the plastic lines my engine has, looks like your solution is great!
Thanks for posting the cooling hoses for us as well, I hope I can find an advance auto parts, but I don't think we have them in Canada.
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01:40 PM
KurtAKX Member
Posts: 4008 From: West Bloomfield, MI Registered: Feb 2002
The new driver side coolant hose I found fits. I forget the number, but I'll get it and post all the hoses I used, the radiator hoses fit stock, no mods neccesary, so that'll be nice for future DOHC'ers to know. The heater I made, but its real simple. I'll explain it all in detail soon.
You guys sure are being quiet, not a lot of replies. Or is a DOHC swap just getting to be old news??
Jeez, that hose looks like it would be PERFECT for the 3100 swap!!! Come on, wa's da number!?! Come on, wa's da number!?!
I like pushrods
Kurt
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04:05 PM
Jul 20th, 2004
86GT3.4DOHC Member
Posts: 10007 From: Marion Ohio Registered: Apr 2004
Hey thanks alot, I looked in the phone book and yellow pages and coudln't find an advance auto parts. How much did they cost you? Shoot me a pm and we'll talk
Lumina with what type of engine? 3.1 3.4 tdc?
Thanks!
[This message has been edited by crzyone (edited 07-20-2004).]
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12:28 AM
Jul 21st, 2004
86GT3.4DOHC Member
Posts: 10007 From: Marion Ohio Registered: Apr 2004
Hey thanks alot, I looked in the phone book and yellow pages and coudln't find an advance auto parts. How much did they cost you? Shoot me a pm and we'll talk
Lumina with what type of engine? 3.1 3.4 tdc?
Thanks!
.... ... have you read my post ?!? anyway, lol Not a whole lot accomplished, I rebent the oil dipstick to come out near the slave, so I acn at least check my oil.... still cant add.... but I can know when I need to add.
I also finished my RS removal plans. I guess here it goes.
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12:49 AM
86GT3.4DOHC Member
Posts: 10007 From: Marion Ohio Registered: Apr 2004
As always, use this at your own risk, It worked for me, but yak yak yak....
Note my wiring harness is slightly diffrent than some Ive seen. It has a separate fuel pump relay, fuse, and a jumpstart pole on a seperate box from everything. Where as my other harness has the FP relay and fuse in the RS connector. Because of this, I do not cover how to remove these componets from the RS connector. Though the FP relay could probably be handled like the AC relay.
Pos=Posistion ( start at top right fuse is 1, the same goes for the fuseable links.) DOHC : RS connector : location
Fuseable links Cut B1: pos 5 60A ,primary and secondary cooling fan relay bottom terminal (all red) Cut K1: pos 6 30A ? My computer crashed, I dont know exactly where each goes, but they all need cut regardless Cut L1: pos 1 60A Cut L3: pos 2 60A Cut B1: pos 3 60A ? End unknown
Fuses Cut pos 2(orange 15A trunk) it goes to auto tranny connector is unneeded Cut pos 8(pink) move the wire to DOHC B1( this is where I moved it for my PNP harness, the actual DOHC location is irrelevant, just needs to go to 203-k) and then to C203 "k" - change TBI INJ2 fuse to 10A Cut pos 7 (pink) (pink/b) next to the main harness and splice together. Then connect DOHC "A3"(see above note) to C203 "J" - change TBI INJ1 fuse to 10A Cut pos 10 brown,10 Orange, 11 brown/w splice all three- then connect DOHC "K2"(see above note) (orange) to C500 "E3"(pink)
Position 4(brown x 2): appears to be the signal wire "switched ground for charge indicator". Remove 2 wires (still connected) and store in harness, or relocate for future diagnostic purposes Position 5(Blue):Splits, One goes to ECM, other end goes to ??knock?? sensor (round sensor under rear exaust manifold, 1 wire connector) follow back to split and snip off the pigtail to the RS connector
Relays Primary cooling fan relay: green/w should already be connected to C203 D1 to actuate the stock Fiero cooling fan relay Black/o cut Cut others
Secondary cut all, I saved the blue wire from the ECM for possible future use, maybe hook it up to a warning light that would turn on when the ECM tries to turn on the second fan, letting you know that the engine is getting hot
AC, remove from RS and connect as before. You can do this by removing the white piece that slides in the side. Then insert a small screw driver into the top of each connector, on the side away from the relay, push down really hard, it'll pop out. Its a good idea to try this on a spare socket first.
Big red feed wire: to be determined My alterator wire was ripped out during engine removal, so I took the big red wire and ran it to the alternator, then to the battery.
[This message has been edited by 86GT3.4DOHC (edited 07-21-2004).]
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12:51 AM
86GT3.4DOHC Member
Posts: 10007 From: Marion Ohio Registered: Apr 2004
Hope the 3.4 DOHC swaps aren't getting old. These engines really fit the personality of the Fiero so well, especially with manual trans. Good luck and keep plugging away it is looking good!
I agree with Darth, the 3.4 DOHC really is IMO the perfect motor for the Fiero.
------------------
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01:44 AM
KurtAKX Member
Posts: 4008 From: West Bloomfield, MI Registered: Feb 2002
Well, no progress yesterday, because I went to PENN to get my 88 donor car. Tossed in a battery and a MAP sensor, and it fired right up. Runs good, little underpowered as its a 4cyl auto.... I dont know what GM was thinking.... anyway, handles GREAT rides real smooth, AC blows decent, good looking body. It kills me that I have to tear this thing apart, its a perfectly good car, but I just have to keep telling myself that its still going to be a perfectly good car... just a really fast perfectly good car
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05:47 PM
86GT3.4DOHC Member
Posts: 10007 From: Marion Ohio Registered: Apr 2004
I have been working. In the last couple days: Wend: 9AM to 4AM, I went to PA to get this 88 coupe (donor car)
Then I finished turning this
into this
Then I took this out, and since the pic, Ive gotten the engine off the cradle, and dissasembled the suspension so I can remove the rust, repaint it, and install my poly bushings
So HA, I have been working. Hopefuly I can get the cradle cleaned up, and suspension repainted before I go to work tomorrow, then reassemble it tomorrow night, and tues get the DOHC on there. I've also got to get with the body shop about getting the body painted, then as soon as Sherwin Williams approves it(theyre paying for the paint job, long story) I can get the pannels in there to be painted, and hopefuly get this thing done by a week from Friday, for the Pontiac TriNationals... HA, well MAYBE.... anyone wanna start taking bets? maybe start a pool. I've got dibs on 3 hours late that or a week, depends on how things go
[This message has been edited by 86GT3.4DOHC (edited 07-26-2004).]
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04:30 PM
PFF
System Bot
Jul 26th, 2004
86GT3.4DOHC Member
Posts: 10007 From: Marion Ohio Registered: Apr 2004
Well, crap, the paint shop just backed out. Basicaly they're pee'd cause I told em that I wouldnt let them use checmical stripper on the body. Idiots, I was saving thier butts anyway, cause they would have had a heck of a time replacing all the pannels after the stripper ate holes in them. Now I have to get ahold of SW and find a new shop FAST, or I'll be taking my car to the trinationals naked. I might do that anyway, I bet id get a lot of attention that way... anyone have thoughts on that??
Well, I got the cradle and rear suspension cleaned painted today. I also installed my poly bushings. I did my best to get the engine back on the cradle, and under the car
Why did no one tell me that the front tranny mount doesnt fit on the 88?? Also, can anyone tell me why the selector arm is hiting the frame now?
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11:50 PM
Jul 28th, 2004
fieromadman Member
Posts: 2217 From: Oconomowoc WI, USA Registered: Jan 2003
Well, after finding that the engine/trans doesnt fit right, I guess im going to use new mounts and lower the engine. Heres what I got: (thanks to darth for the 75 dodge idea) Front engine mount from a 75 dodge d100 318: Advanced 602265, zone 2265 ~$5 Front engine mount from a 79 d100 318: advanced 602266
I went through every motor mount at advanced that we had on the shelves there were a lot that might be good ideas, but these two look the most promising, the 266 is basicaly just a smaller version of the 265. ~3/8" shorter, otherwise identical
Well, im off to make em fit
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10:32 PM
Jul 30th, 2004
InDeX420 Member
Posts: 567 From: New MILF-ord, CT Registered: Dec 2003
yeah... unless he doesnt want to cut the trunk. On my GT the only thing that i needed to cut is about a 2 inch section of the decklid which is awaiting some re-welding eventually, but it was only like half an inch deep of a cut.
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12:57 PM
86GT3.4DOHC Member
Posts: 10007 From: Marion Ohio Registered: Apr 2004
I didnt think it needed re mounted either, but the front tranny mount did not line up at all, about 1" to the drivers side, and the select arm was really close to the frame rail, both of these might have been because the engine was sitting crooked, but I dont see how that could have been, unless the 4 cyl front engine mount is diffrent from a V6. Something that I did not think of until I had hacked all the mounts to pieces. Anyway, Ive got it sitting a lot lower now, I still had to trim the hinge, but what the heck.
Question: The front of the engine seems to sit about 1/8 to 1/4 inch lower than the transmission side, will this cause any problems?
I dont see how, but maybe im not thinking of something.
Ive got pics, but theyre not uploaded yet
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11:35 PM
Jul 31st, 2004
86GT3.4DOHC Member
Posts: 10007 From: Marion Ohio Registered: Apr 2004
Okay, after 3 days of working on these friggin mounts, I have some advice: 1: Unless you need to re mount the engine DONT, lol. Its really not as easy as you'd think. Or maybe im just unlucky 2: Take LOTS of measurements. 3: Bite the bit, dont mess around with the drill bits you have laying around, that how I wasted the first night. Go to Lowes and buy a "COBALT" bit, mine was made by DeWalt. Cobalt is better than titanium plated or whatever. Yes, its a 17$ drill bit, but it cuts steel like most bits cut wood. And after all the drilling Ive done, its still as good as new.
I used the mounts I had listed above, the bigger ones went on the front tranny and engine mount, then a small one on the rear tranny
I had to slot both the cradle and tranny mount side to get it to fit right, I had to do a lot of adjusting to get these things right
I ended up turning the front engine mount to swiss cheese before I was finished, I think Im going to have to reaplce it before I drive the car
I saved the front mount for last, it was easy enough to do, after I wrestled the others in place, I just drilled out the stock holes, then drilled hoes into the cradle
now I understand why everyone removed the decklid spring... crap... \
After all the work, It does sit lower in the bay, giving me not only more room on the hinge, but also a lot more decklid clearance, which if you go back and look at my original fitting, was goign to be an issue, so I guess something good came out of this mess
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01:12 AM
86GT3.4DOHC Member
Posts: 10007 From: Marion Ohio Registered: Apr 2004
Okay, so I need help.... I couldnt sleep last night, and when I got up to get a drink, I somehow or another ended up working on my throttle linkage... At 3AM. So im addicted, what the heck. I think I got it figured out though. Im just going to use the stock 88 4cyl linkage. It has 2 cable stops on it, and the first one fits perfectly, so Im just going to chop off the second one. That was an easy fix
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02:50 PM
PFF
System Bot
86GT3.4DOHC Member
Posts: 10007 From: Marion Ohio Registered: Apr 2004
Seeing as the 88 4cyl apparently uses a diffrent heater feed than an 87V6, I had to remake my heater hose. I took the stock 88 4cyl and rebent it to put the feed in the stock DOHC location. I also started on my brake booster reroute, I bent this so it can run on the pass side of the engine bay, in the channel that the 84-86 heater feed would normaly run.
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11:34 PM
Aug 1st, 2004
qwikgta Member
Posts: 4669 From: Virginia Beach, VA Registered: Jan 2001
Seems that you have it all worked out, i would only add that the reason that the set up may not have fit was
A) you were using a auto trans 88 cradle which is why the holes for the Getrag trans may not have been on the cradle.
B) with the 88 cradle, you have to use the 88 V6 front motor mount. Using one from an early year V6 would not work.
Glad it worked out, but this really is just a plug and play setup. I have an 88 coupe that i put a 96 DOHC into, it bolted up with no problems. I used the V6 (88) front mount and used the 88 manual trans cradle. The only cutting was the pass side trunk hinge and the dog bone area.
Love the thread, please keep it up.
Rob
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02:18 PM
Aug 2nd, 2004
86GT3.4DOHC Member
Posts: 10007 From: Marion Ohio Registered: Apr 2004
Well, I lost my digitial camera, so I cant download the pics tonight but heres what I got done Fuel lines: I used all stock Fiero parts, except one 18" piece of 5/16 rubber hose. I ran the flexible hose fron the engine, and mounted it right by the air filter, then hooked another section of Fiero flexible hose to ir, and took that to the fuel filter, which I mounted on the oposite side, but stock posistion. I then ran the stock Fiero return line, but rebent it. It looks stock, other than my return line is a little wavy, but not bad. Most of it will tuck behind the firewall heatshield too. Heater feed hose: I discovered its 1" too short, 1 freakin inch, lol. I'll have to figure that out tomorrow. brake booster: Finished it up, short of finding a 6" 90* piece to connect the engine to my hard line on the trunk.
I also did some rust repair. It had only minor rust, a spot here or there. This is a 258xxx mile car, and im amazed with its condition, it had t have been garaged winters or something, because Ive never seen a car in the north in this good condition that wasnt take very good care of. Im going to have it Ziebart rust proofed before I start driving it, so I want to make sure I dont get rust trapped under that rubber coating.
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01:12 AM
86GT3.4DOHC Member
Posts: 10007 From: Marion Ohio Registered: Apr 2004
any other 3.4L DOHC motors in the yards near you? there are none around here, and ive already got a manual trans wiring harness and ECM from a 92 z34 lumina, id like to find a running DOHC for 300-400
matthew
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08:50 AM
86GT3.4DOHC Member
Posts: 10007 From: Marion Ohio Registered: Apr 2004
I was saving these for my personal use . Theres a local yard that has 2 more. One had a lot of metal in the oil filter, and the other has issues. It idles great, but looses power when you try to rev it. I think its a bad FP, and thats what the yard said too. Im thinking he wants in the neighborhood of 3-400 for running 3.4's I dont know what he'd want for the one with metal in the filter.
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12:18 PM
Aug 4th, 2004
86GT3.4DOHC Member
Posts: 10007 From: Marion Ohio Registered: Apr 2004
Just wanted to update you guys. Havent worked on the engine itself, Ive been working on the interior and auto to manual tranny swap. Got the shifter, pedal assy and master cyl in. Also Working on power accessorys, the car had AC only, it will have AC/PW/PL/CD/12 disk CD changer/sunroof, and maybe rear defrost when im done.
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11:58 PM
Aug 5th, 2004
crzyone Member
Posts: 3571 From: Alberta, Canada Registered: Dec 2000
Keep it up man! As long as you are 1 step ahead of me makes my swap that much easier
When your swap is done, want to do my wiring harness for a few bucks? Doesn't have to be pretty or cut to length, I can do that, just need wires hooked up where they need to be.
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03:58 AM
InDeX420 Member
Posts: 567 From: New MILF-ord, CT Registered: Dec 2003
Keep it up man! As long as you are 1 step ahead of me makes my swap that much easier
When your swap is done, want to do my wiring harness for a few bucks? Doesn't have to be pretty or cut to length, I can do that, just need wires hooked up where they need to be.