quote Originally posted by 86GT3.4DOHC: And here you can see the fuel draining out the throttle body

Mine will do that on occasion and its running correct with no codes. Theres not a lot of fuel but just a bit on the edge of the throttle body like yours. I believe its from the low vaccum and reverse pressure when shutting off. Of course I am not getting backfiring either which leads me to believe you have a timing and or fuel delivery issues possibly caused by your MAP. Has the cam timing been changed from the stock setting?

[This message has been edited by Erik (edited 08-22-2004).]

Stock Timing

I found the problem with my MAP sensor. The +5v wire had a bad connection in the miniharness connection. The female end had pushed back into the connector, and was not making connection at all when I tested the circut. Ive spent all night trying to get EFIlive to work with this engine. No real luck, im still looking for a good, free, engine scanner. Man I wish WINALDL worked for this engine......

sorry for the late reply but i haven't been on this forum long. i have a few tibbits that might help u out if u haven't already figured them out. your engine is a 91-93 MAP OBD1 multi-port, the 94-95 are MAF OBD1 SFI and the 96-97 are MAF and MAP OBD2 SFI. if u look in the pic of the white lumi it came out of there is a vac diagram to the left of the dogbone. and the serpentine belt diagram is on the front cam sproket cover. it looks as if u have the last 2 covered though. 3.4 dohc are intimidating at 1st but after that they are sinfully easy to work on(at least in 91-94 lumina's). (except for timing it cause u need this $300 cam tool). i was going to do a swap like this but my motor died prematurely in my lumi be4 i had the necessary $$$ to put it in my fiero gt now i am putting in a 96 dohc OBD2 into my 94 lumi OBD1.

a way to check timing is a mark on the balancer or crank pulley i can't remember which, anyway rotate the engine until that mark lines up with a casting line that has a little arrow shape on it, pull your valve covers off and there should be flats on your cams, 1 side should be facing up and the other facing down, check the side that is facing up to see if they are both completely flat and matching each other(a popular mod is to retard the ex cams 13 degrees but if a retard retards the cams u might be in a little trouble) then rotate the engine back to the timing mark(360 degrees) and check the other side's flats which were down and now are up.

keep the wiring documented for me. what i want to know is the locations of the instrument wires and ses wire on the fiero harness. Another thing that might keep it from running is VATS, i am not sure but the lumi's might have it(more research is needed), get yourself an aftermarket chip and that will take care of that as well as give a little performance.

this is all i can think of for now but i am forgetting something. hope ths helps.ltr.

ahhhh.....i see u are posting at 60 degree v6 a wealth of technical knowlege there(i think it is u anyway).

btw i have an autoxray aldl scanner but i am a ways from ohio. pm me and i might be able to work something out with u.

[This message has been edited by dohcfiend (edited 08-23-2004).]

Bit of advice:
Oil your tensioner. I thought mine was okay, but I figured Id top it off. The thing was bone dry. Moved a heck of a lot smother now.
NEVER use anything brittle to hold the tensioner back, I used a precision screwdriver, and the tip snapped off in there, now I have a tensioner that does not tension, and a broken screw driver

This thread is great source of info for my swap, just wanted to thank you again.
Earlier you posted the cooling line part numbers and I was just wondering if you know what application they were used for on other cars. We don't have advanced auto where I al and I don't think these part numbers would cross reference. Could you possible find out where they are from?

Shoot me a pm and we'll talk.

Coolant return:advance auto parts #D70923(CS) Almost a perfect fit
E71035 is the drivers side hose

Actualy, after I remade the mounts, the hoses didnt seem to work anymore. Not sure why. I'll check on applications for the ones I listed before. I found a new hose, that when trimmed a certain amount will work on the drivers side, and a diffrent amount will make it work for the pass side.

An interesting note:
Did you know the MAP sensor can make the coils not fire. Yea.... well, at least now I have a new module, cranksensor and a coil pack......
Im supressing my rage right now......

i used a 3/8 drive extension which i put the end that goes on the ratchet on the tensioner and a 3/8 wrench and put that on the square piece that usually goes to the socket. if u use a cheap 3/8 wrench u will snap it at the end(i did), of course u might snap the expensive one 2 but u can replace it for free. the expensive held up under the pressure for me.

[This message has been edited by dohcfiend (edited 08-25-2004).]

HMMMM.... well....
I tossed the MAP sensor on my 85SE, the sensor works fine.... So why is it throwing the code? Maybe its cause its not running right or something. Im goign to save that one until I get it to spark again.
Apparently the MAP sensor was not what was causing it not to spark, as it has quit again, and no matter what I do with the MAP, it wont spark. I made some interesting observations before it crapped out again, it had a strong blue spark on #5, but #6 was real weak, short and yellow. Well, thats about all the farther I got. after not being able to get it to run, just spit and spudder, I quit for the night. Went out there the next day, no spark
So what all does it take to make one of these spark? I replaced the ign modlue, crank sensor, and tested the coil packs. Ive also checked for activity from the CSS. My mulitmeter reads .05V AC, and something like 29.xx on frequency when connected to the wires that go to the CSS, so im asuming all is well there. The ECM is working, because I can get the SES codes. Also, before I even had the ECM hooked up right so it would work, I was getting spark without it. Does the ECM ectualy have to be there to get spark? Im trying to rule out sections that could be the problem.

quote Originally posted by 86GT3.4DOHC: Also, before I even had the ECM hooked up right so it would work, I was getting spark without it. Does the ECM ectualy have to be there to get spark? Im trying to rule out sections that could be the problem.

it will fire (spark) without the ECM just as long as you have the crank sensor plugged in and power to the DIS. I wonder if your sensor is bad, the sensor wiring is, or possible the DIS.Make sure your engine has a good ground strap as well. Its possible that the sensor wiring could be losing its signal along the way

[This message has been edited by Erik (edited 08-26-2004).]

hmm, one time when i took my motor apart to replace head gaskets, i put everything back together and it wouldn't start it might sputter a few times to tease me. just for hell of it i checked the fuel pressure on the test port and the gas kind of puddled out. i pulled the rail, left the injectors plugged in the fuel lines plugged in disconnected the wires to the injectors and cheated the f/p. 4 out of 6 of them were open when they aren't supposed to be. after i replaced them, the car started right up.

So, all I need is a crank sensor, ign module, and +12 with a ground to make spark. Hmmm. I replaced the crank sensor, and module, and checked, I read 12 V between the + and - terminals on the module plug. I better start making sure that my wires are making good contact

Looks like someone may have put the coil pack on wrong, and when I replaced the wires, I wired them based on the numbers on the packs. Ive got to find the real order first to find out. Ive also got the dog bone bracked tack welded in place. Ive got to get the engine lift bracket out to weld it up, and drill some hoes.

Hmmmm, I have a question. From what I have read the 3.4 dohc bolts right in to the 88 cradle with no motification, but what about 84-87?

BTW: Nice job on the swap

[This message has been edited by Porvette (edited 08-28-2004).]

Yea, same deal. I actualy had this bolted to an 86 cradle for initial mockup. It actualy fit better, because the 88 cradles are diffrent between auto and standard, and this 88 was an auto.

quote Originally posted by 86GT3.4DOHC: Yea, same deal. I actualy had this bolted to an 86 cradle for initial mockup. It actualy fit better, because the 88 cradles are diffrent between auto and standard, and this 88 was an auto.

Ahhh sweet A plus for you!

Coil packs wires are 1+4, 6+3 5+2 left ot right as you look at it.

Did you ever get carbytes working?

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Dave E

www.ltlfrari.com
Visit the NC Fieros website at TarheelFieros.org

Nope, I kinda gave up for now on carbytes, and pretty much all the other software too. I tried everyhting I could with no avail

I've got my exaust lined up, Flowmaster 80 series, im welding right into the side of it, and I found a cutout vavle for 42$ that im welding onto the intake. I had hoped to find an electric one, so I could wire it to open at 3k, or whenever to allow low end torque and then open up for the upper end. Oh well, at least I can open it at will, especialy when I pull up next to a fart can honda, that'll shut em up

just wondering what the wieght difference is of a 3.4 and of a 3.4DOHC . I am concerned with the wieght issue and how it may effect the handleing in corners and over all balance of the car. Burt ii would really like actual figures of the complete engines if anyone can find this info. Thanks

quote Originally posted by nightonfire: just wondering what the wieght difference is of a 3.4 and of a 3.4DOHC . I am concerned with the wieght issue and how it may effect the handleing in corners and over all balance of the car. Burt ii would really like actual figures of the complete engines if anyone can find this info. Thanks

It is about 50lbs heavier due to the 4 cams but if you put the battery up front it will help weight balance There really is no noticable difference in handling due to weight between the stock iron block iron headed OHV pushrod motor and the ironblock 4 cam aluminum headed DOHC

[This message has been edited by Erik (edited 08-31-2004).]

Man this sucks. Its just sitting in my driveway, and im pretty sure itd fire right up, but Ive got way to much to do right now. Once I get it kind of road worthy, Ive got to take my new toy down to where Im going to park it until I get some time, but for now between the other engine swap im doing for someone, and trying to get this working, I have no time for my baby
But im still thrilled about my new one

Take some time for your own car man You need to get that beast on the road. Have you got it running properly yet? How the heck am I supposed to finish if you don't complete your build thread lol

Nice new car btw, t-tops are cool.

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Buy a fiero, become a mechanic

Ive got it running....
Let me put it this way, it took me 4 gallons of water to get it home(on top of the full system). I unfortunatly only took two jugs with me. Funny story,lol, ever walk up to a water treatment plant and as "do you have any water" lol, they got a kick out of that...
Anyway, I got the massive coolan leak fixed, the y pipe replaced, the old one the EGR vavle was broken off, and then teck welded on backwards. I replaced the o2 sensor, and even went so far as to screw it into the y pipe, this was the second Ive found like that..... I didnt get the y pipe sealed properly, and I still have to unblock the EGR tube, but its "driveable" (I wouldnt cruise in it, but its moveable)
So its getting shipped off to storage until I get done with my engine, for now I just need to finish the engine swap im doing for this guy, and I can get back to mine. I did get my dogbone made, Ill get pics soon

BTW, the previous post was in refrence to the t-top 86

Now ive got my DOHC running.
thats all ive got to say....

it turns out it was a power problem to the module, it was showing 12V every time I checked it, then I checked it today 12V....11V....8V.......4V.....3.9V.....3.8V... and so on. WAIT 12V.....8V....11.5V....
I got frustrated and spliced 12V from the battery into it and it fired right up, im guessing I have a bad soilder joint in the harness. but MAN does it run
it has some issues, like when I rev it high, it wants to die afterwards, then not restart... plus I got the tach needle jammed on the oil pressure needle god I love this...

It definitly makes some power, the exaust made a nice hole in my driveway (without backfiring btw) and moved some of it into my garage lol

Anyway, here she sits again, hopefuly for only a day or so

Fired it up again tonight. mmmmm
Its starting to run pretty good, and she sprung her first coolant leak im soo proud
Ive gotta bolt a seat in, attatch the colum and guage cluster and install the shifter and calbes, and I'll take her for a spin I dont know how its going to run with an auto chip though...

quote Originally posted by 86GT3.4DOHC: Fired it up again tonight. mmmmm Its starting to run pretty good, and she sprung her first coolant leak im soo proud Ive gotta bolt a seat in, attatch the colum and guage cluster and install the shifter and calbes, and I'll take her for a spin I dont know how its going to run with an auto chip though...

It wil run quirky ..might give you good power one time and then changes its mind and feels like it is holding back and of course the idle speed will vary and it will tend to die when stopped ..at least thats what mine did with an autochip in it

Quiz:
Stripped Fiero Chasis + DOHC+ no exaust = ????

HOLY F **** *** ****** ******* ******** ******** ******** ******* and ******** ***

MY GOD@!@!

I took it out to the road, gave it a little gas, it kind of hesistated so I gave it a little more, it took off so hard I was thrown back in the seat, and my foot went clear to the floor. Now I dont actualy remember if that was intentional or from flying back, but after I red lined first in ~ .5 seconds, I had to swerve back onto the road and slam it into second, again being pushed back in the seat so hard I couldnt have moved if I tried, I then redlined in second in maybe 1 or 2 seconds, slammed it into third, but had a little truble getting it in, then it started missing real bad (I think this is when my fuel pump fuse blew), I just pushed the clutch and screamed "Whoo hooo Holy S***" This is probably 1/2 mile down the road already.

Im not sure what my neighbors think, me flying by in a skeleon of a car, at dusk, WOT with no exaust, especialy my next door neighbor who for whatever reason was at the end of his driveway as I redlined 2nd.

I can hosetly say that is the fastest Ive ever gone, and the biggest high Ive ever had.

And for all you legal smeagle guys, yes it had no plates... no insurance.... no tailights.... but it did have one headlight, It just wasnt plugged in, it did have seat belts, but they were laying on the passenger floor, no speedo, the tach did work... but was for a 4 cyl....I think the front turn signals might have worked had they been plugged in, BUT it did have a working fuel guage

I think im gonna slip down the road, slightly more street legal, and take it to a weigh station, and see what it actualy weighs in this condition.

[This message has been edited by 86GT3.4DOHC (edited 09-19-2004).]

well... I broke it
lol. I havent gotten my dogbone in yet, and I was just to eager to drive it. I broke the Map sensor, and socket thingy on the dogbone mount, in fact the engine moved far enough to run my idler pulley into something or other and destroyed it too. Opps.

I dont care it was worth it. I love this engine. It pulls hard off the line then at 3500 it really pushes you into the seat. The only problem I have with it is it pulls clear to redline, so I dont know when to shift until it cuts out. I better go get an extra engine at this rate . That or just fix the tach. Nah, better get an engine too, im gonna have fun with this thing.

Good news, the stock clutch setup seems to be holding pretty well. I accedently started in second once, it slipped up until it caught the engine, then locked right up. I also feathered it in first, got moving, the dumped it and it broke the rear wheels loose so I think it should be okay if it'll hold that.

Whats 7k in third on a getrag in MPH?? Thats all the faster Ive taken it so far. But it flys right to there, 1st as always is just a heartbeat, second is very short, and third is real quick too, the engine doesnt even have to try to get it to redline, Im afraid to get into fourth under power until I get seat belts, or at least doors

Well I gotta go fix it later, and Ill try to refrain from joyriding until I get a dogbone, and maybe some signal lights.

nah the 3.4 dohc live in the high rpms. only crap i have ever recieved is the cap that covers the hole where a dist used to go leaking alot and timing belts. never had one go but they can be a pain.

[This message has been edited by dohcfiend (edited 09-26-2004).]

Man... sounds like fun! Hurry up and put a body on that thing so you can take it on some high speed highway runs!

Broke already?
It really is a fun motor and it does sing right up to high redline without losing anything. I'm real suprised to see you say 1st is gone so fast because, compared to the stock engine, that first gear is much more usable. Every gear is in fact because you have another 2k to go then you do with a pushrod engine.
I want one!
Keep us updated.

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Activities Director N.I.F.E.

www.fierofocus.com

im still debating sbc or 3.4 dohc deamn cant decide but seeing what u did is helping thanx

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Im thinking V8 for my 86SE t-top, I just havent decided N* SBC or LT1. I know a guy with a 350 block, to stroke to 383 and some LT1 heads. Might go that way

Sorry im kinda lacking in progress, been real busy. I got the dogbone and bracket finished up. I just took an "ultamate" 4 cyl dogbone, cut ~1" out of it hammered 1/2 all thread down the middle and welded it up. I had to move the map sensor for clearance issues. There should be more progress soon.

Well I got the check from the paint company to fix the paint on the body for my car. Sweet. Im finaly in the final stages. I was expecting to have the body back months ago, but it took forever. Anyway, I got some cleanup done and painting on the dogbone setup today, also reinstalled the clutch cyls and pedal I scavenged to get another guys car running. So I just need to bolt in the dogbone and bleed the clutch before I can get another "fix"

Ausome thread, BTW. I had to read from beginning to end. Took some time, but great read and you inspire us wonna be's out there. Desperately want to do a swap, but lack the fundage. Pics are great
Galen

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Make it FAST or don't make it :)
LITTLE RED BOMB
www.velocityaircraft.com

I actualy sold the old engine, It only had 3k on it after a full rebuild, lack of vision I guess at the time, I shoulda just dumped the DOHC in instead of rebuilding.. but Oh well. I do have some heads laying around, I'll PM you

I got a lot more done today.
I installed the car alarm/starter/etc. I know this seems like it should wait until later, but I wanted access to all the wires.
I installed the dogbone
I replaced the leaky clutch flex hose
I cleaned up the pass. door, getting ready to bolt it on
I bolted in the drivers seat belt( the passenger is still on thier own, but I dont know anyone else crazy enough to get in the car as it sits, so I dont think its an issue)
I wired on some tailights to make it "more" street legal
Im my opinon its reasonably enough legal, so tomorrow im going to set a license plate in the rear window and drive it down the road to a muffler shop

I did take it around the block today. At first I couldnt figure out why it was sluggish and shook on take off. It took me a minute to realize the selector cable had come loose and I was starting in third. I got it in first and left about 20' of rubber in a nice fishtail shape. oops