I was starying at them and instead of buchering them id figure Id ask and maybe save myself the hassel... Im installing my poly so it doesnt matter if i kill the original lol....iv included a pic just in case its easyer to show how its done...
Thank you Brad
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01:26 PM
PFF
System Bot
KillerX Member
Posts: 736 From: Ontario, Canada Registered: Oct 2001
ha ha BTW sorry about the topic my hands were dirty and I didnt wannat get the keyboard all messed up so I was typing lightly and didnt look at the words :P Brad
I used a hammer and a 30 MM impact socket and beat them out.
------------------ 4.9 Caddy ON CRADLE in Garage! Car in Driveway! ACK! **************************************** http://home.cfl.rr.com/fierose Central Florida Fieros http://www.centralfloridafieros.org Proud Member and founder of the DOWN SOUTH SUNNY WINTER PICK ON SNOW PEOPLE COALITION!
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01:34 PM
ditch Member
Posts: 3780 From: Brookston, IN Registered: Mar 2003
everyone will probably give you the same answer...burn them out. I did it on my control arms and cradle bushings and it worked great
Heat around the sleeve with a propane torch. It will take several minutes for the rubber to get soft. The bushing will start popping and spattering hot rubber, so be careful. Eventually, it will shoot out one side, so don't stand on either side of it. The rubber might start on fire during the process, no big deal, let it burn.
WEAR SAFETY GLASSES AT THE VERY LEAST, also a long sleeve shirt in case rubber spatters on your arm.
sounds safe doesn't it?
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01:35 PM
KillerX Member
Posts: 736 From: Ontario, Canada Registered: Oct 2001
LOL thats crazy!!! ha ha so I gotta burn both ends but what end should I be poping them out? the side with the bigger end on it (on the poicture facing out or pop them trying to pop them from the outside to inside?) ha ha this is gonna be fun
Thanks guys...
Brad
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02:09 PM
ditch Member
Posts: 3780 From: Brookston, IN Registered: Mar 2003
LOL thats crazy!!! ha ha so I gotta burn both ends but what end should I be poping them out? the side with the bigger end on it (on the poicture facing out or pop them trying to pop them from the outside to inside?) ha ha this is gonna be fun
Thanks guys...
Brad
If I remember right, yes it's the bigger end that they'll be coming out. They shoot several feet when they let go so just don't be in front of the firing path . They also smoke like mad so keep that in mind. Nice thing about burning them is that once they pop out the inside of the inner sleeve is pretty clean because everything was burned away. There might be some hard carbon bits here and there but they come right off with a file or sand paper.
you really shouldn't have to burn them - (thick black sticky smoke that coats everythign including lungs) just have to heat evenly around the sleeve where its inside the arm untill it sounds like its boiling then it should slide out
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02:16 PM
buddycraigg Member
Posts: 13620 From: kansas city, mo Registered: Jul 2002
WOW well lemme try that before I burn it! ... I called my cousin over "just in case" he has to call the fire dept. lol but now i might not have too... Im also gonna be playing the song "USHER - LET IT BURN " LOL
thanks again guys im going out right now to try to do it... Brad
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02:36 PM
GT Member
Posts: 911 From: Silver Spring, MD USA Registered: May 2003
don't use fire to burn them out. it makes a mess, it's hard to clean up afterwards and you still have to scrape the inside of the sleeve when you are finished.
I will never use the burn them out method again.
Drill around the sleeve first in 3 steps. Go about 1/3 the way in, then let the drill bit “walk” around the sleeve.
Do it again about 2/3rd the way in, and finally all the way in.
now just let the drill bit keep going around and around the sleeve and the sleeve will start working it’s way out the other side.
do the same thing around the bushing
5 minutes per side and you’re done. It also works great on A arm bushing too.
[This message has been edited by Kohburn (edited 02-03-2005).]
Alright! well I got the metal piece out with the drill technique...it came out right good!!! but now the darn rubber ant commin out... right hard!!! heres what it looks like...
anyideas? or is it back to burning it
Brad
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03:43 PM
ditch Member
Posts: 3780 From: Brookston, IN Registered: Mar 2003
I still say burn it out. Using a drill is a waste of time when all you have to do is cook it out. Anything left over in the sleeve is cooked to a crisp and comes out VERY easily with some light scraping.
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05:14 PM
KillerX Member
Posts: 736 From: Ontario, Canada Registered: Oct 2001
OHHHH MAN!!!!! It took about 10 mins for the first one and then the rest took another 6 mins wow sooo good!!!! the drill is actually pretty easy as long as you dont mind giving up 3 drill bits lol thanks again every1!!!
Brad
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05:42 PM
Tom Piantanida Member
Posts: 527 From: Palo Alto, CA, USA Registered: Oct 2004
I've never actually tried to remove the rubber bushings, but the "drill method" leads me to ask the following: Could you use a holesaw just slightly smaller than the inside diameter of the sleeve to drill out the rubber bushings?
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05:55 PM
Whuffo Member
Posts: 3000 From: San Jose, CA Registered: Jul 2003
The rubber is bonded to the inner and outer sleeves (at least it's supposed to be), so getting the outer sleeve clean for a poly install isn't as simple as it sounds. Burning it out is probabaly the best option, even though it sounds like a crude method for doing it.
Even if you could saw the rubber out, what would you use to clean the remaining vulcanized rubber from the inside of the sleeve?
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10:13 PM
Feb 4th, 2005
KillerX Member
Posts: 736 From: Ontario, Canada Registered: Oct 2001
Ill post pics tomorrow... now to install the new poly bushings...you say the rubber is bonded? with a glue of some sort? would I have to use the same on the poly bushings?
thanks Brad
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02:00 AM
Tom Piantanida Member
Posts: 527 From: Palo Alto, CA, USA Registered: Oct 2004
I suppose you could use a wire-brush wheel (like they use in automotive machine shops to remove carbon deposits) to remove remaining rubber remnants (say that five times fast).
You could try this; the lacquer thinner method. Just be VERY careful; the burning bushing will go like a short haul rocket and yes, it 'exits' by the big end. (Protect the container of lacquer thinner and anything else etc).
Questions email me; I have removed a BUNCH of bushings this way; you actually only burn it for about 2-3 min and it leaves the inside of the sleeve clean and ready to use. https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/058957.html
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03:19 PM
PFF
System Bot
webbee Member
Posts: 1149 From: Los Angeles, Ca. USA Registered: Jun 2000
Harbor Freight has a drill saw that should work really well to cut the centers out. Then/otherwize it's "Burn, baby, burn"! Wear a respirator and save your lungs. This is an outside job, away from anything else, not an enclosed garage type of thing. As noted above the smoke get's on stuff and is hard to remove. Wire brush or use a scraper to get the remains off/out. I don't remember using glue on the polly or anyone mentioning gluing polly in.
Rubber requires a really sharp knife edge to cut. I don't think a hole saw would work but I've been wrong before. Someone should try it to see if it would work. I think all these other methods take longer than the burn method. It's just stinky/messy/dangerous, a manly kind of job.
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03:21 PM
KillerX Member
Posts: 736 From: Ontario, Canada Registered: Oct 2001
Hey guys I got some pics of what it looked like after I took it out with the drill bit(s) I used a smaller drill bit to get it out and probably only broke about 5 or 6 bits which I didnt care cuz the smell and mess woulda made me gag and mad lol
So now im ready to install the bushings (when I sandblast and prime the rest) so can I use a clamp to compress the poly in the hole or what should I do? also how should I lubercate the poly? and you guys were talking about some type of glue on the inside where the old bushing was? do I need a new glue with the poly one?