I saw a few examples of hood cutouts for better airflow (NOT hoodscoops). I'm looking for design ideas, things that members have done (I remember seeing a flame design before...). Thanks
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www.yellowfiero.com/fiero.html 17" DEZENT T wheels with 215/40 tires front and 235/45 rear, KONI shocks, EIBACH lowering springs, drilled/slotted rotors. PU dog bone, all bushings and engine mounts, K&N air and oil filters, OZELOT exhaust, Mercedes SLK yellow paintjob, Mr. Mikes leather seats, door skins, shift and e-brake boots. MP3 deck and custom subwoofer behind passenger seat, F355 style front. Fiero Store rear swaybar, strut tower brace, black carpet, air intake. Rodney Dickman's competition short shifter. Billet aluminum dash kit from Kitcarman.
very easy ( and cheap ) draw /trace an outline on there and cut the fiberglass out.
Everyone at the shows love looking at it. Works very well on the road, keeps the front end stable and glued to the road. not sure why more don't do it....
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88 GT, 3800SC, Getrag 5sp., fastest one in Austin,Texas and surrounding areas.........so far
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10:24 AM
Fie Ro Member
Posts: 3735 From: Soest, The Netherlands Registered: Sep 2001
That's what I meant - no scoop but a cutout. Any opinions why a scoop could work better in extracting air than a cutout?
Tha flame design is a bit extreme for me but a nice idea.
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Originally posted by revin:
very easy ( and cheap ) draw /trace an outline on there and cut the fiberglass out.
Everyone at the shows love looking at it. Works very well on the road, keeps the front end stable and glued to the road. not sure why more don't do it....
That's what I meant - no scoop but a cutout. Any opinions why a scoop could work better in extracting air than a cutout?
Tha flame design is a bit extreme for me but a nice idea.
Scoop = Extracting air.. Since the scoop is allowing the airflow to go over the car, and not allowing anymore in, since you want warm air out, and thats all!
Cutout = Allowing cold air in. Not really allowing any out.. Unless you have vents in your fenders, then you aren't really creating a positive airflow....
Here's a great big one. There is an internal flange around the mouth to mount screen to but I haven't got around to it yet. The front comes down and meets the plastic trunk floor. I had some adaptors made to run remote brake reservoirs as the stock one hit the hood.
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01:24 PM
ShueGlue737 Member
Posts: 521 From: Fowlerville, MI Registered: Apr 2004
I don't understand... With increasing speed there's a pressure built-up under the front part of the hood (that also forces the headlight covers up). Now, if I put an (extracting scoop) in the hood or just cut an opening (flame-shaped or whatever), the pressure should force the air out from under the hood, right? Let me know if I got this wrong...
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Originally posted by Custom2M4:
Scoop = Extracting air.. Since the scoop is allowing the airflow to go over the car, and not allowing anymore in, since you want warm air out, and thats all!
Cutout = Allowing cold air in. Not really allowing any out.. Unless you have vents in your fenders, then you aren't really creating a positive airflow....
Hope that helps!
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02:13 PM
PFF
System Bot
FieroMaster88 Member
Posts: 7680 From: Mattawan, MI Registered: Nov 2000
One thing to keep in mind is a flat cutout is facing into the wind due to the slope of the hood. So positive pressure under the hood will have to be higher than the force of the oncoming air to vent it out.
A reverse facing scoop places the oulet of air out of the oncoming air stream and the air going over the scoop actually tends to create a vacuum effect to pull air out from under the hood.
Both will work, but a scoop will be more effective. Whether or not the difference is enough to notice on a street car is debatable.
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02:22 PM
Fie Ro Member
Posts: 3735 From: Soest, The Netherlands Registered: Sep 2001
well it all depends where you cut the hole in the decklid in the first place...I guess the high pressure area is a few inches behind the radiator till the front trunkwall...cut the right area and youre already in business
with my ventmod the front end seems a bit more responsive while keeping the front more stable at high speeds..some downforce i guess/hope.....anyway from the a$$ometer a mod like this feels a little better, not worse ....
You need to decide if you want the front trunk cut for an extreme design. You might loose storage for a sunroof and spare tire....I liked to keep those..
Here are a few of mine. I used the honeycomb mesh from the rear vents and a 2 part epoxy to glue them in place. Don't mind the filth its a daily driver + winter = salt everywere
It helps keep the car cool and helps make the car feel more stable at speed !
No mine is all hand done. From my design using the GT40 as the idea. They are quite a bit larger than the T-birds. 10" across and 3" down. Yes it does mess with the seal. I got rid of the seal and cut a small amount of metal out. Plan on trying to reseal it at some point, not a big deal though. I do still have room for the sunroof.
That's what I meant - no scoop but a cutout. Any opinions why a scoop could work better in extracting air than a cutout?
well i think its a two part answer
1- the cutout is on a slope that oncoming air wants to ram into - however the air under the hood is at higher pressure so it still works 2- on a scoop the oncoming air moves fast over the scoop and creats a vacuum to suck the air from under the hood. so it works a little better.
[This message has been edited by Kohburn (edited 02-27-2005).]
Great work Fie Ro. I was gonna do something similar and may now just use you measeuments to save me some time and agony. You gave us all the demensions except one. What is this dimension?
Here's a great big one. There is an internal flange around the mouth to mount screen to but I haven't got around to it yet. The front comes down and meets the plastic trunk floor. I had some adaptors made to run remote brake reservoirs as the stock one hit the hood.
pull a mold of that bad boy and sell me one. That is exactly what I had planned to do on the GT.
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06:34 AM
Fie Ro Member
Posts: 3735 From: Soest, The Netherlands Registered: Sep 2001
Great work Fie Ro. I was gonna do something similar and may now just use you measeuments to save me some time and agony. You gave us all the demensions except one. What is this dimension?
...just got it (brrrrr it is cold outside)...its about 4,75 cm at the sides and 5,0 cm in the center...I reused the cut piece, angled it and moved it forward about 2 inches. I filled the gap at the top with fiberglass and bondo. trunk stays intact. Something to take care of: I found small cracks in the corners, appearantly when the headlights are up they stress that decklid area....I will have to reinforce the corners some more... You can draw some lines with a marker first and just look from different angles and decide what you want (different)...hope this helps
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12:49 PM
Mar 1st, 2005
nightonfire Member
Posts: 1015 From: San Diego, Ca. Registered: Feb 2004
I just cut a big hole in the hood. Contrary to what Custom2M4 says, it's very effective at extracting air. My coolant temps dropped about 20-30F degrees after cutting the hole. It's also very good for defogging the windshield (after the engine warms up).
After the finish work is done, I plan to install honeycomb mesh.
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07:59 PM
PURPLE REIGN Member
Posts: 4080 From: Minnesnowta ------------------ Land of White Gold Registered: Sep 2002
big and DEEP is better I looked at a real FORD GT friday [at the collier collection] that sucker went to the bottom of the rad about 18" DEEP and we DO NEED to get the front to STICK at speed even if we don't go 200MPH like the ford GT
a little slot will help BUT BIGGER IS BETTER even if you need to cut the tyre well metal to do it
------------------ Question wonder and be wierd are you kind?
I really like the flames and the concept behind them, however, even though I did up a template, I chickened out on the design. I'm going for 1/4" X 8" slots set like Sgt's stripes with a center gap with honeycomb behind them. Nice a subtle and good for an actual square footage equal to 48 sq in.
I don't have a pic yet, but the slots should be about 1 " apart, set at 30 degrees, with a center rib between the two sets. I don't think I need the extra engineering of doing the fancy vents to get the job done.
Arn
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08:53 AM
OH10fiero Member
Posts: 1541 From: struther OH Registered: Jun 2002
Here's a great big one. There is an internal flange around the mouth to mount screen to but I haven't got around to it yet. The front comes down and meets the plastic trunk floor. I had some adaptors made to run remote brake reservoirs as the stock one hit the hood.
I like that idea for your breaks, how did you do that exactly, and did you have to do anything special as far as porportioing for front and rear?