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Priming engine? How? by DR650SE
Started on: 04-24-2005 06:29 PM
Replies: 7
Last post by: Paul Prince on 04-25-2005 08:59 AM
DR650SE
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Report this Post04-24-2005 06:29 PM Click Here to See the Profile for DR650SEClick Here to visit DR650SE's HomePageSend a Private Message to DR650SEDirect Link to This Post
Im rebuilding my engine, but want to know how to prime it when its done so that i dont have to start the engine w/o oil running through it. How would I go about doing this. Last thing I want is to damage my investment. Thanks for and help

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Report this Post04-24-2005 06:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JazzManSend a Private Message to JazzManDirect Link to This Post
2.8? You'll need something to spin the oil pump, I use a 12" long hex shaft extension that fits in my drill with a 1/4" socket driver and a 6mm socket on the other end. The 6mm socket fits over the oil pump drive. Because the distributor hole intersects one of the oil pump galleys you'll need to use a distributor body with no guts in the hole, running the extension through the distributor body. Be sure to use a good O-ring on the distributor. The pump turns clockwise.

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DR650SE
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Report this Post04-24-2005 07:34 PM Click Here to See the Profile for DR650SEClick Here to visit DR650SE's HomePageSend a Private Message to DR650SEDirect Link to This Post
Thanks alot, thats what i thought, + for u

Dan

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Fiero_Adam
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Report this Post04-24-2005 11:08 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Fiero_AdamSend a Private Message to Fiero_AdamDirect Link to This Post
Or...you can grind the gear off an old distributor and prime it that way. Chuck a drill to the top of it and spin away! I'd recommend removing the gear before grinding to make sure no metal filings get stuck somewhere in the distributor, then get into the oil as you're priming. There's a pin holding it in that you can punch out. Works good. I just did this to an 2.8 I'm rebuilding. I'm ready to get it back on the engine cradle and back in the car. Good luck!

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wicked93gs
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Report this Post04-25-2005 12:05 AM Click Here to See the Profile for wicked93gsSend a Private Message to wicked93gsDirect Link to This Post
I just cranked my engine over with no spark or fuel to prime it, only took a couple turns before the oil pressure light went away, you should be fine if you used assembly lube
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JazzMan
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Report this Post04-25-2005 12:11 AM Click Here to See the Profile for JazzManSend a Private Message to JazzManDirect Link to This Post
Without the distributor in place no oil will flow to the bearings or lifters, it'll all just drain down the distributor hole instead.

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OH10fiero
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Report this Post04-25-2005 08:56 AM Click Here to See the Profile for OH10fieroSend a Private Message to OH10fieroDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by JazzMan:

2.8? You'll need something to spin the oil pump, I use a 12" long hex shaft extension that fits in my drill with a 1/4" socket driver and a 6mm socket on the other end. The 6mm socket fits over the oil pump drive. Because the distributor hole intersects one of the oil pump galleys you'll need to use a distributor body with no guts in the hole, running the extension through the distributor body. Be sure to use a good O-ring on the distributor. The pump turns clockwise.

JazzMan

Aslo cover the hole, oil will gush out of there if the RPM's on the drill get too high, learned the hard way myself.

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Paul Prince
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Report this Post04-25-2005 08:59 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Paul PrinceSend a Private Message to Paul PrinceDirect Link to This Post
I also use a stock distributor with the cam gear ground off. Stick it in, tighten it down, hool up a drill (HD one) and spin away. I also remove the valve covers to make sure that oil is coming out the pushrod tips, on all cylinders. I got a used distributor at U-Wrench- It for $10.

I would definately prime a rebuilt engine.........Paul

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