Well I just got back from a very nice trip to Vancouver and back in the fiero and I decided its time for an engine swap. In the last day and a half I have been pretty busy, so here are some pictures.
I had this motor out in a personal best of 3 hours
3.4 sitting on the ground waiting
I installed the flywheel and clutch onto the motor and bolted it to the trani. The front engine mount was also modified per Darth Fiero's instructions and installed.
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86GT 4 speed
[This message has been edited by crzyone (edited 07-20-2004).]
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12:18 AM
PFF
System Bot
crzyone Member
Posts: 3571 From: Alberta, Canada Registered: Dec 2000
Hello, I would suggest that you relocate the battery up front and put your Ecm in the old battery location that way its cleaner looking and you dont need to lengthen any wiring. Gives you a lot more room too. thanks Norm from www.normsfiberglass.com
------------------ Norm Vandermee
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12:16 PM
crzyone Member
Posts: 3571 From: Alberta, Canada Registered: Dec 2000
Let me know if you have any questions on the wiring, Ive gotten pretty much finshed with mine. What did you do to the front mount? just trim it so it'll fit? I think youre going to be somewhat concerned when you see how close this is going to sit to the decklid. I know I am. Check out my thread, I have some pics of how high it sets. I have yet to actualy get the decklid back on to see.
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04:11 PM
crzyone Member
Posts: 3571 From: Alberta, Canada Registered: Dec 2000
I was sort of concerned as well, it looked really high in the engine bay, but besides Darth I don't know of anyone that has actually lowered the engine. I will keep the engine as is and see when I get the decklid on there. If its too close I may use the dodge truck mounts like Darth. Thanks LTLFRARI for the diagram for the battery box on your web page, helped a bunch!
86GT, you have a pm!
[This message has been edited by crzyone (edited 07-20-2004).]
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04:51 PM
pred1tor83 Member
Posts: 1872 From: Washington DC Registered: Dec 2000
Well we got the battery box done today, thanks to LTLFRARI. I think it looks pretty good and fits perfect.
And the hole you have to cut in the bulkhead
A good note for anyone that uses his plans, cut your hole just beside the rivits on the bulkhead, watch out for the brackets holding the clutch or brake line. Cut from the center of the 2 rivits up 5". Hope this helps anyone that uses his design.
We dropped off the fiero exhaust system to be copied into 2.5" diameter tubing instead of the fiero's 2", this should easily support this engine. I'll have puctures of it tomorrow.
Thanks for looking!
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11:45 PM
Jul 21st, 2004
crzyone Member
Posts: 3571 From: Alberta, Canada Registered: Dec 2000
i thought that the stock 3.4 dohc engines used a 3 inch downpipe? anyhow, you'll need to flip the muffler upside down and and run custom piping to it if you want to use the stock muffler.
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03:58 PM
86GT3.4DOHC Member
Posts: 10007 From: Marion Ohio Registered: Apr 2004
Acutaly, you'll probably want to get a flowmaster and mount it in the stock location, but from the looks of things, you're going to have to weld a flange right to the muffler, and then put studs on the manifold, and bolt the muffler right to the manifold. Thats my plan anyway. And dont forget to put a cutout valve on the muffler inlet, that way you can go straight pipe whenever you want
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05:55 PM
Mickey_Moose Member
Posts: 7542 From: Edmonton, AB, Canada Registered: May 2001
The project seems to be going smoothly. Regarding the new battery tray, does the spare tire still fit?
Roy
so far as I know the spare WILL NOT fit but that was not a concern for me since it dod not go in anyway with the Held master cyl I have on. with my tray the battery sits quite high in the bay.
Yeah, spare doesn't fit but I didn't need it to. I plan on replacing it with a can of fix a flat Hey the new Lotus's do.
I could have mounted the tray farther down but I didn't want to relocate the clutch line. I plan on putting the ecm and coil pack where the battery used to sit.
Tim, I still can't wire anything, hopefully I can contract it out to somebody, or do alittle reading and figure it out myself.
I'm picking up the exhaust today, I'll post pics when it gets here.
Thanks for the responses about the exhaust, I dropped off my factory exhaust and told them to make it 2.5" with a high flow muffler, that should help out the top end alittle.
[This message has been edited by crzyone (edited 07-23-2004).]
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03:52 PM
Aug 6th, 2004
crzyone Member
Posts: 3571 From: Alberta, Canada Registered: Dec 2000
Well I started on my exhaust. I had a shop copying the stock fiero exhaust system with 2.5" pipe. I went there every day for a week before they started it and they ended up not being able to do it. Their pipe bender would crimp the exhaust as it bent it and I didn't want that. Bought myself some mandrel bends, pipe and a muffler and am doing it myself. This muffler is awesome, 2.5" inlet with dual 2.5" outlets. You can see right through it, just looks like coregated pipe. Should be loud and free flowing, I like!
The pcm I sent Darth to have reprogrammed turned out to be a 94 pcm which he can not reprogram so I will be buying another pcm 93 or older, another little setback.
For Sale!! Runs great, burns no oil, comes with stock fiero exhaust.
On the second pic you can see all of the cut wires, I'm guessing that was just before the firewall connector on the gtp right?
I'm going to attempt the wiring myself, any advice before I start would be appreciated.
Got the engine test fitted today, trimmed all that needed to be trimmed. It does sit high, but it will have to do. I will trim my decklid if I have to like I have seen others do. Should only have to be done on the passenger side.
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11:11 PM
crzyone Member
Posts: 3571 From: Alberta, Canada Registered: Dec 2000
I have a question first off, why doesn't anyone use the RS electrical center? It seems like it would be easier to leave it all in one piece and run power to it instead of using the fiero's fusebox?
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11:20 PM
86GT3.4DOHC Member
Posts: 10007 From: Marion Ohio Registered: Apr 2004
Why not use the RS connector. Try cramming all that crap in there, AND the rs connector. Plus its kinda useless and redundant. Check out my build thread, I have RS connector removal instructions, you'll see most of it is redundant, and the rest usesless. Its very easily bypassed. A bit of warning though, while all seems to work well, my fuel pump does not come on with the ECM, I have to hot wire it. Ive yet to troubleshoot this, so I dont know where the problem is, but I think its in the C203 or somewhere inside the car.
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11:43 PM
Aug 19th, 2004
crzyone Member
Posts: 3571 From: Alberta, Canada Registered: Dec 2000
Well so much for that idea I agree, there isn't much room at all in the engine bay once the motor is in there.
So from what I gather in dohcfiero.com all I really need from the fiero harness is the c203 and c500 connectors and associated wiring correct? Fiero ecm connections and engine controlls are all removed?
My 3.4 harness was from a 94 car and I will be installing a 93 ecm so I will also have to delete my maf and install a map sensor. Need to remove a/c, cruise and auto trani connections as well.. This should be fun for someone that knows nothing about fuel injected engines
[This message has been edited by crzyone (edited 08-19-2004).]
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01:05 AM
86GT3.4DOHC Member
Posts: 10007 From: Marion Ohio Registered: Apr 2004
Well, what I did was chop up a Fiero harness, mate it to the DOHC connector from the body of a DOHC car, and made a conversion harness. Not going to work for you, seeing as yours is chopped off..... You have no need at all for the Fiero ECM, basicaly its just a matter of puting this wire to that one. As far as the auto tranny connectors, for now I just wired them out of the way.
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01:18 AM
Erik Member
Posts: 5625 From: Des Moines, Iowa Registered: Jul 2002
On the second pic you can see all of the cut wires, I'm guessing that was just before the firewall connector on the gtp right?
I'm going to attempt the wiring myself, any advice before I start would be appreciated.
QUOTE]
I feel your pain This is a harness I am finishing up for Exotica Rida.
My advice is ....see a shrink before attempting to do it or .... contact me and I'll build you one Its a pain but its not too difficult, takes more time than anything. Take your time and check each wire Oh and a do it on a cold concrete floor
[This message has been edited by Erik (edited 08-19-2004).]
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01:34 AM
crzyone Member
Posts: 3571 From: Alberta, Canada Registered: Dec 2000
Well I have my fuel lines run, I used compression unions along with 3/8 and 5/16 steel brake line to do it. I retained the fiero rubber hoses and didn't have to remove the stock fuel lines from the engine. If you guys want pics I'll take some and show how I did it.
I have one quick question, where do I hook the heater hoses to on the engine? The one along the trunk wall and the one that was on the front of the 2.8? Not sure which is feed or or return. Need to know what was used for feed and return on the 3.4
Wiring harness has been sent out for modification by Erik, very decent price as well. Darth modified my prom and did some running around for me, wish I could give out more than 1+ each of both of them. Thanks guys.
Well I can tell you I already love it. Probibly the easiest engine to install (except wiring cause I'm no good at it)
Aside from cutting misc brackets and such in the engine bay the installation is going smoothly. I'm to the point where I need to make 1 more cut to the old dog bone bracket for the engine to be able to come up all the way. My engine seems to sit alittle farther to the right in the engine bay, the cam cover wants to come up directly underneath the dog bone bracket that is welded to the strut tower.
I think it should be on the road in less than a month, hopefully. Need to finish up the exhaust, should sound sweet flowing through a 2.5" pipe into a very unrestrictive magnaflow muffler. When you look through it, it just looks like coregated (sp) walls and you can see right through it. I'll keep this thread going until its tearing up the road.
Cryzone; looks great!! Can't wait to hear your impressions!! (Better hurry tho; it is end of August.......!!!) Can you tell me what muffler the shop picked or a model number or whatever? It looks good and compact.
Coinage: how far are you on your destroke? Just wondering where you are getting your crank? Maybe you could PM me; I don't want to get off topic here..........
great thread! GP Ottawa
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08:50 AM
crzyone Member
Posts: 3571 From: Alberta, Canada Registered: Dec 2000
I know... winter is practically here Unfortunatly I didn't keep the box the muffler came in and I don't have any part numbers. The magnaflow is alittle wider than the fiero muffler, I don't think it should affect anything, there is a bit of space on either side of the stock fiero muffler.
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11:25 AM
Sep 22nd, 2004
crzyone Member
Posts: 3571 From: Alberta, Canada Registered: Dec 2000
I finished all of my heater hoses, just need to be trimmed to size upon final installation. I used flex piping for the passenger side coolant hose, should work great. I went to the local Canadian Tire and picked up a reactive air filter with a 3" outlet, should flow plenty of air. For the drivers side coolant hose I used the stock fiero hose, thanks to fieromadman for that suggestion.
I went to a muffler shop and they gave me a foot of 1.5" exhaust pipe, I took it to the local rad shop and had them put a filler neck on it and a rad cap. Instead of having to order one off of the internet I now have a new in line filler for less than $50.
Here is where my swap sits. Erik is finishing up my wiring harness and as soon as it gets here the motor will be ready to go in the car.
I have a question for those with a 3.4tdc already. I have a hose that comes off of the intake and has a pcv on it. I also have a broken vacume line that comes from the intake valley and I was wondering if these are supposed to fit together? I can't see where else the pcv could go. Thanks for any info.
better use the new sig, just because...
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Buy a fiero, become a mechanic
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05:43 PM
Sep 27th, 2004
crzyone Member
Posts: 3571 From: Alberta, Canada Registered: Dec 2000
Well I had a day off today and got some progress done on the car. I installed the cradle, struts, brakes, slave cylinder, shifter cables, throttle cable, wheels, brake booster hose, and I'm probibly missing some things in there. I took some pictures of different angles, here they are.
Things left to do- Install drivers and passenger side coolant hoses, install wiring harness, take it down to the muffler shop to get my exhaust system welded up and fab a dogbone. Getting closer!
think you can get me a pic of this angle here without the engine cover on it? I want to see how much room there is under that cover for a direct port nozzle setup. I want to see how much room is down there in the runner area.
Thanks
SH
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11:06 PM
crzyone Member
Posts: 3571 From: Alberta, Canada Registered: Dec 2000
Here it is, I circled it. As you can see, there is only enough room under there for the injectors and the fuel rail. As soon as you put the wiring harness under there, there is next to no room. I'll give you some more pictures when I pull the intake off again to install the wiring harness, its very cramped. Hope this helps.
Picture is bad, dark outside.
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11:21 PM
Fierobsessed Member
Posts: 4782 From: Las Vegas, NV Registered: Dec 2001
This is of the upper assembly from a 96-97 motor and it does not have the injectors in it. There is some room to play with under the manifold. The most important thing to notice? the open valley. You could probably sneak the direct port nitrous underneith the lower intake
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11:24 PM
crzyone Member
Posts: 3571 From: Alberta, Canada Registered: Dec 2000
Looking good, must finish mine some day. What did you do for the oil dipstick, I cannot see it in the pics you posted. Can you post a pic of the engine from the eyeline of the deck lid so we can see how much your engine stands above the deck lid line?