Do I sand between a base coat & clear coat?

I'm touching up a small area - 2" X 9" on my daughters car, and I wanted to know if I have to
sand the base coat before I apply the clear coat?

Also, as long as I'm at it. after applying the clear coat, do I sand that, also?

Thanks,

Michael

------------------
88GT/Auto/Beechwood Leather/SunRoof/Wing/JVC-CD-Sub-Woofer/225/45/17 Michelin Pilots/All Opts Ex.T-Tops

<<< <<< <<< <<< < Pix of my GT /- -/ Pix of my Vettes> >>> >>> >>> >>>
*** *** *** *** *** * "If you appreciate my contribution, please rate me. Thanks"* *** *** *** *** ***

I really do not know, but was always told that the clear coat went on while the basecoat was still wet. I would think that the only thing that you do to the clear coat is buff it out after a good dry.
Don

Do not sand base. wait for base to dry,only takes 10-15 minutes. If you have to sand orange peel in clear out wait at least 2 months 6 would be better use 1200 or 1500 wet then buff

I`m guessing by the size of section --your using a can ??? If your using a paint gun, shoot on base coat, let it flash==dry 20 minutes or so, it will turn a dull/flat color, --do not sand at this point. Shoot on your clear coat, if you have any dirt, dust ,orange peel , or anything else thats not desirable to your look, wait about 24 to 48hrs --tops--then wet/sand with 2000-1500 grit, use a rotary buffer , then compound and glaze it--a local paint store will let you know what you need, 3-M compound works well , then # 9 meguirars swirl remover will eliminate the swirls from compound, then top off with # 7 meguairs hand or machine glaze, wait a month and top off with # 26 meguirars high tech yellow wax. Everyone does this different, so I`m sure you`ll hear more on the subject shortly, so stay tuned..

You never want to imediatly sand clear if you can avoid it can probably will shrink. have to do it all over again.

Yeh, A couple 2-3 days is fine, cured paint is hell to do finish work on if you wait along time.. Most body/shops and paint manufactures recomend not letting the paint cure for a real long time before wet/sanding.

Thats the point the longer it cures the harder it gets and shrinks. Body shops do it because they have to. If its your own car you want it to last as long as possible. like I said if it was my car I would wait 6 months, yes it will be hard use 1200 if you tried 2000 may as well use a paper towel.

NEVER sand or wetsand base coat prior to clear coat...

If you get a bug in the paint or dust or something, what your supposed to do is sand it and re-shoot that area with base!!!--- THEN do your clearcoat...

Well, Lets see he wants to paint a small 2 inch x 9 inch section, I wonder what will happen when the areas around that section that don`t have the newer paint on them get hit with 1200 grit, kinda like using scotch brite or brillow pads on cured and new paint......

The same thing that happens to the other paint 1200 scatches that buff out. Ive painted hundreds of cars and motorcycles. was a rep for a major paint manufacture. You can paint and sand any way you want Im just answering the mans question with my experience

quote Originally posted by 3800superfast: I`m guessing by the size of section --your using a can ??? If your using a paint gun, shoot on base coat, let it flash==dry 20 minutes or so, it will turn a dull/flat color, --do not sand at this point. Shoot on your clear coat, if you have any dirt, dust ,orange peel , or anything else thats not desirable to your look, wait about 24 to 48hrs --tops--then wet/sand with 2000-1500 grit, use a rotary buffer , then compound and glaze it--a local paint store will let you know what you need, 3-M compound works well , then # 9 meguirars swirl remover will eliminate the swirls from compound, then top off with # 7 meguairs hand or machine glaze, wait a month and top off with # 26 meguirars high tech yellow wax. Everyone does this different, so I`m sure you`ll hear more on the subject shortly, so stay tuned..

So was I.............Have a nice day......................

The can of clear, will usually have the instructions on the back, telling you when the window of buff time is. I've seen some that tell you not to wait more then a few days.
If all else fails, read the instructions......

Kevin

Theres no maximum you can sand and buff 20 year old fiero

Here's a link for ya...

http://p090.ezboard.com/fpaint2frm7.showMessage?topicID=126.topic

Thanks for the replies……..

I’m painting a small area, near a wheel well, on a 7 year old car. I know the repair will be seen (matching old paint
with new)

I just wanted to follow the proper sanding order and end up with the best possible looking repair I can.

You could blend the color into the rest of the panel, then clear that area and use a blending clear. It'll look pretty good when you are done. Don't wetsand the base coat.....

Mark

quote Originally posted by 2000RagTop: Thanks for the replies…….. I’m painting a small area, near a wheel well, on a 7 year old car. I know the repair will be seen (matching old paint with new) I just wanted to follow the proper sanding order and end up with the best possible looking repair I can.

The only reason you would ever sand the base would be if debry dirt, bug ect. got into it. Then lightly sand with 400 and respray with base so to answer your q. dont sand the base. If the paint your using is any way near matched when your done wont be able to tell where repair was. Just put the color where its needed no where else. Easiest way for novice would be to scuff whole panel in your case fender base just the small damaged area NOT whole panel When dry clear whole panel. That way you dont have to worry about blending clear. As i said when done should not be able to see repair

What everyone else said.

DONT SAND the basecoat......except to remove a flaw....then respray that spot with basecoat again.

In fact...its NOT a good idea to even touch the basecoat before you clear it. Some metallic colors will streak, and when you clear it the streaks are permanent. I dont even tack off base color to clear it. Using automotive paint, I usually color sand it within a day or two and buff within a week at the longest. It gets VERY hard to buff after that. If you use spray can stuff you need to wait a month or two before you buff on it.