P.P.S. My rims are 17". I would not go smaller on the front! At least not with a wider wheel. I had to __barely__ grind each of my lower control arms to keep from rubbin at the extremes of steering/suspension travel. You WILL rub with a smaller diameter wheel, and I don't thing grinding will solve the problem. 18 inchers would not hit at all....

quote Originally posted by fierogt88: P.P.S. My rims are 17". I would not go smaller on the front! At least not with a wider wheel. I had to __barely__ grind each of my lower control arms to keep from rubbin at the extremes of steering/suspension travel.

Good info! I wondered about that. Thanks for passing it along.
I'm pretty sure that mine will scrape. Possibly even a bit more, since my car has been lowered 1.5" or so. Depends on the angle of the LCA.

[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 10-27-2004).]

quote Originally posted by jelly2m8: I had stock 15x7" diamond spoke wheels on the front of my 88, those wheels should have put more wheel both inboard and outboard of the bearing compared to the 6" wheel.

Good info! The only thing I would add is that the stock 15x6 and 15x7 wheels had different offsets, so putting a stock 15x7 on the front, actually has the effect of moving the wheel OUTBOARD more. That's probably why it negatively affected handling as much as it did.

Skybax posted front offset = 37mm and rear = 30mm. So putting the rear wheels on the front moves the entire wheel 7mm farther out. If it had the 37mm offset like the 15x6 wheel, then it would have split the extra inch evenly.

I still think if your primary concern is handling - talk to the ones with the experience. They may have found non-stock offsets and sizes that work BETTER than OEM.

quote How do you suppose going to staggered wheel sizes saved GM money? I don't see that.

Never said anything about staggered wheels, I was talking about keeping the current wheel design, keeping the 15x7 30mm rear, and after the suspension improvements, modify the front wheel = saves GM money.

quote You're making an awful lot of bold statements about *exactly* what tire and wheel sizes you should use with seemingly little experience with them.

LOL... no comment

quote Many people who have put a lot of miles (street and track) on their aftermarket wheels and tires are giving you input, and although it is not all going to hold true for you, it may be wise to listen to what some of them have to say.

err...umm... I simply asked who had 16x7 aftermarket rims on their 88. And those who stayed on topic and address the question got an appreciated response.

skybax or anyone else:
Has any of you consider, purchasing a set of wheels with, lets say for example 42mm offset on the front and taking the front rims to a machine shop and have them take off 6 to 8mm off to make the wheel a 48 to 50 mm wheel ?
I was thinking about it since there is so much more selection on wheels with a 42mm offset.

YEAH! what 85 lamb said!
if it is that important, have a machine shop set the offset for you!
cant cost that much to fly cut. (fly cut right?)

Be carefull with the word impossible. Here it is.
Like has been pointed out, the best setup will put the added width of the wheel at 50% on the inside and 50% on the out side. And according to your own math 38mm puts at just about that.

Like said the tire is what will stick out if you go to wide. So far all the talk is about the rim. Just stick with the right size tire and the 38mm rims will work great.

Rickady88GT, OMG!!! What color of blue is that on your car? That is a very nice blue

Thanks.
It is a GM color. It is found on the SUV's and its called Indigo Blue Pearl Metalic. The Silver is also a GM color. It is on the GM cars and is called Galixy Silver Metalic.


I put to much into this paint to have the wrong wheel off set brake the fender. The rear wheels fit great too.

Rickady88GT : I like 'em, any specifics on, who makes 'em, who sells 'em, & what colors are avail.?

Norm

yeah, i love the wheels so much i almost missed that great color.
more info on wheels

Thanks

The wheels are ASA AR1's licenced by BBS.

BBS offers a wheel just like it but I can't remember the name.
I got mine from TireRack.com. There customer service was outstanding, I had the
wheels in no time and they bent over backwards to fix a problem I had. I can't remember the
finishes it comes in, I got satin and I believe there was polished or clear coated. I am
glad I picked them.

Rick

I'm going to try and explain it simply...

You kept your offset the same (37mm to 38mm, forget the 1mm for argument sake) you increased your wheel width by 1", that means your rim sticks out 1/2" and is inward 1/2"... it's simple math.

You are correct that it didn't effect the geometry, as your scrub radius remained the same.

84-87 Fieros have tons of positive scrub. That's one of the problems with the pieced-together suspension. Generally a zero scrub radius is desired. When GM spent 30 million upgrading the 88 suspension, one of the things they did (which I listed previously) is reduce the scrub radius. (30% shorter scrub) Even though it was greatly improved, it's still positive.

The reason I (and most 88 owners) increase the offset when putting a larger rim up front is...

1 - rim will sit flush on the outside, pleasing to the eye
2 - positive scrub radius will be slightly reduced, improving overall performance

It's a win / win situation.

Reduction of scrub radius improves vehicle drift performance during braking, increases the understeer coefficient, increases the obtainable lateral acceleration, and reduces the required steering wheel effort to perform transient maneuvers.

[This message has been edited by Skybax (edited 11-04-2004).]

quote Originally posted by Skybax: The reason I (and most 88 owners) increase the offset when putting a larger rim up front is... 1 - rim will sit flush on the outside, pleasing to the eye 2 - positive scrub radius will be slightly reduced, improving overall performance

Makes sense.

As I mentioned, I have some new wheels on order. The new front offset will be 50mm. My old (current) offset is 40mm. Since I'm going to the tire store to have them swapped, I should be able to notice the difference on the drive home. I'm really curious as to whether 10mm (.4") is going to make a noticeable difference. I'll let you know.

Anyone need a set of Konig Absolutes, if my current prospect backs out?

[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 10-30-2004).]

So let me see if I got this right? GM spent 30mil on a new susp for the 88 and they screwed up because they put the wrong wheels on it?
Look I am no expert, I have no idea how scrub radius will effect my driving style so I cant say you are wrong. But have you seen an 88 with a 7" wheel on front and a 50mm offset? If you lift the car and take the front spring out of one side and mount the wheel. You can move the steering wheel left to right and use a floor jack to lift and drop the susp. This way you can see just how much room you will have for your wheel at full travle in all directions. Have you done this? 50mm is about 2", subtract the 30mm stock off set and that moves the wheel in about .75" and out .25 from the extra width of a 7" rim. Do you know for a fact that the wheels will fit? I for one dont want to trade scrub radius for turning diam. If the wheels rub at full turn you will loose some turning diam, and I dont want to have to do muti point turns all the time. Do you think that the average person can even tell the differance if the wheel is the same as stock or more off set?
I would have to say that the 38mm off set wheels that I have look pleasing to me.
You seem to be upset that you cant find a set wheels for your car? But you narrow yourself down to a very strict set of dimentions. Is it worth all the truble? Do you think you can be able to tell if the scrub radius is right for you if you go with more off set? To much off set is just as bad as not enough. How much is to much? Have you figured it out?

quote Originally posted by 85LAMB: Has any of you consider, lets say for example buying wheels with 42mm offset on the front and taking them to a machine shop and have them take off 6 to 8mm off to make the wheel a 48 to 50 mm wheel ? I was thinking about it since there is so much more selection on wheels with a 42mm offset.

bump, to see if anyone has done this.

quote The high offset that comes on the aftermarket wheels (48+mm) is targeted at the Subaru market. The subarus centerbore is 1mm smaller than the fieros. The rims WILL have to be modified to fit on the front. You can have a machine shop bore them out by 1mm or a very steady hand can do it with a die grinder

Most aftermarket rims have a larger bore and hubcentric rings are used. In the rare case they are fitted for just Subaru, the place your buying the rims from should have them professionally machined to the Fieros 57.1mm hub at no extra charge. If they don't, buy your rims from somebody else, or take them to a machine shop yourself. Never use a die grinder and any other method of uneven-ness or "home-style" quick-fix.

quote Originally posted by Skybax: Most aftermarket rims have a larger bore and hubcentric rings are used. In the rare case they are fitted for just Subaru, the place your buying the rims from should have them professionally machined to the Fieros 57.1mm hub at no extra charge. If they don't, buy your rims from somebody else, or take them to a machine shop yourself. Never use a die grinder and any other method of uneven-ness or "home-style" quick-fix.

The TSWs that I ordered are available in both the "generic" centerbore, requiring the hub-centic ring, and the Subaru-specific centerbore. Of course they ordered the wrong ones.
He apologized profusely. The correct ones should be in by tomorrow or Tuesday.

Regarding the Subaru-specific centerbore... I asked him why the Subaru couldn't just use the hub-centric ring like the rest of us. He said that it was because so many Subarus are used for rally competition, and that the competition rules prohibited it. Makes sense to me.

quote Originally posted by Skybax: I'm going to try and explain it simply... You kept your offset the same (37mm to 38mm, forget the 1mm for argument sake) you increased your wheel width by 1", that means your rim sticks out 1/2" and is inward 1/2"... it's simple math. You are correct that it didn't effect the geometry, as your scrub radius remained the same. Basicly you gained nothing. Performance was unaffected, and your wheel sticks out further. 84-87 Fieros have tons of positive scrub. That's one of the problems with the pieced-together suspension. Generally a zero scrub radius is desired. When GM spent 30 million upgrading the 88 suspension, one of the things they did (which I listed previously) is reduce the scrub radius. (30% shorter scrub) Even though it was greatly improved, it's still positive. The reason I (and most 88 owners) increase the offset when putting a larger rim up front is... 1 - rim will sit flush on the outside, pleasing to the eye 2 - positive scrub radius will be slightly reduced, improving overall performance It's a win / win situation. Reduction of scrub radius improves vehicle drift performance during braking, increases the understeer coefficient, increases the obtainable lateral acceleration, and reduces the required steering wheel effort to perform transient maneuvers.

Ok, now I get where you're coming from. We were on the same page and didn't know it.
Your wanting to increase the offset to decrease scrub radius and improve appearance didn't jibe with maintaining the suspension geometry. You are wanting to change the geometry by changing the offset. I was under the impression you wanted to keep the geometry the same as OEM, and wanted to find a wider wheel with the offset required to do that.

Thanks for the clarification.

Definitely let us know what you end up going with. Either getting a lesser offset and having the wheel machined or going with modular wheels that let you have nearly any offset you wish are probably your best bets. Do you know how much negative offset you can get before you run into clearance issues with the fender or control arm? (I would think the fender wouldn't be a problem, but rubbing the A-arm at full lock might)

quote Originally posted by Formula88: ...Do you know how much negative offset you can get before you run into clearance issues with the fender or control arm? (I would think the fender wouldn't be a problem, but rubbing the A-arm at full lock might)

Earlier in the thread, I believe that fierogt88 posted that he was running 17x7 @ 50mm, and the inside edge of the rim *just barely* scraped the LCA.
I'll be getting the same offset. If nobody beats me to it, I'll let you know.

quote Originally posted by Raydar: The TSWs that I ordered are available in both the "generic" centerbore, requiring the hub-centic ring, and the Subaru-specific centerbore. Of course they ordered the wrong ones. He apologized profusely. The correct ones should be in by tomorrow or Tuesday.

Update... The non-Subaru centerbore wheels are no longer available.
So if I want these things, I've got to get the Subaru version, and take them and get them bored to fit. What a complete pain in the ass.
Of course, the sizes listed on Discount Tire's website don't even begin to resemble what's actually available. Go Figure.
"We" are not happy.
The good news is that the salesman agreed to credit me the cost of having them bored. I plan to hold him to it, too.

[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 11-01-2004).]

quote Originally posted by Skybax: I'm going to try and explain it simply... You kept your offset the same (37mm to 38mm, forget the 1mm for argument sake) you increased your wheel width by 1", that means your rim sticks out 1/2" and is inward 1/2"... it's simple math. You are correct that it didn't effect the geometry, as your scrub radius remained the same. Basicly you gained nothing. Performance was unaffected, and your wheel sticks out further. 84-87 Fieros have tons of positive scrub. That's one of the problems with the pieced-together suspension. Generally a zero scrub radius is desired. When GM spent 30 million upgrading the 88 suspension, one of the things they did (which I listed previously) is reduce the scrub radius. (30% shorter scrub) Even though it was greatly improved, it's still positive. The reason I (and most 88 owners) increase the offset when putting a larger rim up front is... 1 - rim will sit flush on the outside, pleasing to the eye 2 - positive scrub radius will be slightly reduced, improving overall performance It's a win / win situation. Reduction of scrub radius improves vehicle drift performance during braking, increases the understeer coefficient, increases the obtainable lateral acceleration, and reduces the required steering wheel effort to perform transient maneuvers.

There is a flaw in your explaination. Wheel offset/backspace is relative to the wheel width. Therefor to keep the same ratio, when widening the wheel, the offset MUST change by exactly half the width increase. There is 25.4 mm in an inch, so to keep the same geometery on a 6"x37mm wheel, to a 7" wide wheel you would need 49.7mm offset. If you stuck a 7"x37mm wheel on a fiero it would stick out 1" further then stock. On 88's you actually want more backspace then stock, particularly when using a 7" or wider wheel. I have 18"x7"x55mm on the front of mine, and they tuck under the fender better then stock.

quote Originally posted by 88-DOHC: ...Wheel offset/backspace is relative to the wheel width...

Actually, while kind of related, offset and backspacing are two different things.

Backspacing is exactly what it sounds like. The measurement of the distance between the hub mounting flange and the back edge of the wheel. Backspacing is an absolute value. Wheel width has no bearing on it.
Offset is the measurement of the distance that the hub flange from the centerline of the wheel.

[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 11-01-2004).]

I didnt know there could be this much talk about finding a set of wheels for a car.

Can't speak for anyone else, but I'm stuck at home with the flu. Don't have anything better to do.
But very astute of you to notice!

quote Originally posted by Raydar: Actually, while kind of related, offset and backspacing are two different things. Backspacing is exactly what it sounds like. The measurement of the distance between the hub mounting flange and the back edge of the wheel. Backspacing is an absolute value. Wheel width has no bearing on it. Offset is the measurement of the distance that the hub flange from the centerline of the wheel.

Exactly right. Which means if your comparing offset, the same offset on a 1" wider wheel puts an extra ½" on both the inboard and outboard sides. If you're comparing backspacing, then you have to change the backspacing by ½" for each extra 1" of wheel width to get the same geometry.

http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/offset.htm

what about running lots of negative camber? that would put the center of the contact patch further in.
it also moves the actual point of scrub radius out, does it not? (the line drawn from the upper ball through the lower ball to the pavement)

quote Originally posted by Formula88: Exactly right. Which means if your comparing offset, the same offset on a 1" wider wheel puts an extra ½" on both the inboard and outboard sides. If you're comparing backspacing, then you have to change the backspacing by ½" for each extra 1" of wheel width to get the same geometry. http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/offset.htm

Which is exactly what I said, since offset is measured from the centerline of the wheel, thus wheel width DOES matter when determining the proper offset. Only difference between offset and backspacing is the reference point (offset from wheel center so can be positive or negative, backspacing from inside wheel edge). You can still determine the correct wheel based on your vehicle specs given either one however almost every wheel out there lists its "offset" regardless of whether they call it backspacing or not. Generally you only see backspacing used on rear wheel drive wheels (or ones that have negative offset). Front wheel drive wheels, or ones with positive offset, are always listed as such. At least any that I have seen has been that way. Certainly any wheel you find for a 5x100 bolt pattern will be.

I think everyone is pretty much on the same page.

A very informative thread where everyone can learn something.

I think the only question that remains in my situation is...

I ordered 16" x 7" with 47mm offset for the front. This means the outside edge of the wheel will stick out 3mm further than stock. The inside edge of the wheel will be 23mm further inward.

quote Also, don't forget to measure for clearance with the A-arms, etc. when you increase the inboard wheel width. Too much negative offset can cause suspension clearance problems.

I know for a fact this is not a problem with a 17" wheel, but a 16" wheel with an inch less diameter is in question. If you look in the archives over the last 5 years, there are TONS of people (if not the majority) who run these specs on their 88's with 17" rims. But I have yet to find a somebody running 16" with these specs on their 88.

I feel it's mostly due to 17" being more popular and having a much larger selection. I wanted 16s.

I measured the stock wheels to the control arms in full-clock position. My calculations have concluded that I should have at least .75" clearance with my new rims in full-clock position.

The only thing I'm concerned about is how much of that distance changes when the suspension is being compressed over large bumps when turning. The wheels stay square with the ground (generally speaking), the body has vertical movement, the the control arms swing up & down between the two.

Is the .75" enough... that's the question in my specific application.

[This message has been edited by Skybax (edited 11-04-2004).]

Wellllll...

Had the TSW Stings on order. Paid in advance. They called, a couple of days later, and told me they were in. I went to have them mounted on the car.
Them: (After mounting one of the tires) "Oooops. We ordered the wrong ones. These have the Subaru center bore. Too small to fit on your car."
Me: "Fine. Just order the correct ones. When they arrive, I'll come back. Meanwhile, remount my old wheel."
Them: "No Problem. We'll order them and call you when they get here."
Me: (Several days later, on the phone.) "Did my wheels ever come in?"
Them: "Well... There's a problem. The 17x7 is only available in your offset with the Subaru center bore."
Me: "$%$&*!$%... Well. Where do we go from here?"
Them: "Ummmm... errr..."
Me: "Here's the deal. I'll take the ones with the Subaru centerbore, but you've got to cover the machine work to have them bored. Otherwise, we'll just call this done and you can credit my card."
Them: "Okay. We'll cover it."
Me: "Cool. Do you still have the wheels with the Subaru centerbore?"
Them: "No. We sent them back. But we can have them here in a couple of days."
Me: "Cool. Let's do it."

Several days later I went to the store and asked the salesman if they had arrived. (This, after calling about a dozen machine shops, trying to find someone who would bore the stupid wheels. Finally did.)
Me: "Are they in, yet?"
Them: "The warehouse doesn't have a record of us calling and ordering them."
Me: "Fine. Apparently the spirits of 'staggered widths and offsets' don't want this particular deal to happen. Please credit my card."

I'm not as chapped as I might have been. Truthfully, they were going out of their way to try to work with me, and I appreciate that. But it was just one screwup after another. This just didn't "feel" right, any longer. (Later that night, the store called me and said the wheels had, in fact, been delivered to another store across town. They said they could be at my store, first thing in the morning. I politely declined.)
I will go back though, and I told them as much. They've always given me good service. They were quite apologetic, and said they'd cut me a really good deal whenever I needed something else.

Anyway, I think I found a set of suitable replacements. They're made by FRD Racing, in Canada.
They're available in 17x7, 48mm offset, and 17x8, 35mm offset.
I'll ask about the centerbores when I call, Monday.

[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 11-07-2004).]

Damn.. sorry to hear that.

Have you looked at Discount Tire Direct?

Good selection, fair prices, will machine the fronts if need be (professionally), S&H included, no tax, mounted & balanced will lugs and hub rings when they arrive at your door.

All you have do it put them on.

quote Originally posted by Skybax: Damn.. sorry to hear that. Have you looked at Discount Tire Direct? Good selection, fair prices, will machine the fronts if need be (professionally), S&H included, no tax, mounted & balanced will lugs and hub rings when they arrive at your door. All you have do it put them on.

Really?!
Discount Tire is who I was dealing with, locally. There's a store just a few miles from me.
When I mentioned machining, he said that he couldn't have it done. I'm surprised if they'll do it through the online store.

I'm going to give these other folks a shot. I actually like the FRD wheels a little better. If they don't work out, I might give your idea a try. Either that, or I'll just keep my Konigs.

Dang Raydar, those FDR wheels should look kick butt on a Fiero! I'd go with those before the Stings.

quote Originally posted by jelly2m8: Dang Raydar, those FDR wheels should look kick butt on a Fiero! I'd go with those before the Stings.

Thanks! I'm keeping my fingers crossed that they are actually available in my offsets and centerbore.
Not that I'm actually cynical or anything.
I believe the term we use down south is "snake bit".

Centerline has a line of wheels called the "Impulse" that are said to weigh only 11.8 lbs a piece for 17". I've yet to see anyone who sells them though after searching. They have other wheels that are supposed to be super light and look great but I've yet to find weight specs on the rest of them. You can check out some of their wheels on their website.

www.centerlinewheels.com

------------------

went to centerline's web site, looked all over for impulse. found nothing. where do i find them? they also dont seem to sell 18's in anything but 7" width? and 42mm offset?

Try WHEELMAX.COM they seem to have a large selections......

------------------

ok... here is an interesting idea.....

I am not big on huge wheels and I live where roads are rough, and I'm keeping the stock spring height. I like the look and performance of the 16" wheels, and like to have some sidewall.

Lots of people stagger their sizes like newer mid-engine cars, like 16" front and 17" rear, or 17" front and 18" rear.

After looking around at the limited selections for our 88's, every time I found something I liked it didn't have the sizes or offsets I needed. (big suprise huh) And when I did find the sizes and offsets I need, I didn't like the style.

So... I got to thinking..... what if I used staggered sizes in 15" and 16"???

Have to admit, it has lots of benifits, and it's something you don't see.

I found these in a style I like:

Front = 15x6 w/ 32mm offset (would use 205/60/15 tires)..... stock is 15x6 w/ 37mm offset (205/60/15)

Rear = 16x7 w/ 38mm offset (would use 225/50/16 tires)..... stock is 15x7 w/ 30mm offset (215/60/15)

Basicly the front wheels would be out 5mm, and the rears in 8mm.

That's pretty damn close to stock configuration.

[This message has been edited by Skybax (edited 11-10-2004).]

Skybax,

As I mentioned earlier, I have the 17"x7" TSW Stings with the high offset in front and had to barely grind the control arms to keep from rubbing at the extremes of turning/extension/compression. You might be ok with 16" rims, but I highly doubt it. I mounted the wheels on my suspension without springs or shocks and used my little jack to move the suspension up and down while I checked for rubbing at the extremes. It did rub. I did grind. One thing that might just save you is that I mounted everything without the bump stops because I was lowering the car at the same time. I only had to grind the lower control arms for extreme uppward movement of the wheel, at the extremes of steering. If you don't lower it and keep your bumpstops stock you might be fine, but I would suggest mounting things up and trying it before trusting it.

85LAMB,
On the subject of modifying the offset of the wheel, I begged at least a dozen different machine shops to consider shaving the wheels mounting face, and every single one of them refused to even consider it. Their reason was always the same, reducing the material between the lugnuts and the hub face would "probably" weaken the wheel and cause a potentially disastrous accident for which they would inevitably be liable. Depending on the wheel itself, this may or may not actually be a legitimate worry, but I certainly couldn't find anyone willing to risk it. I did have one guy say that if they were steel wheels he could work some welding magic to compensate, but I was never considering steel wheels.

Finding someone to drill out the centerbores was only slightly less difficult. I had to explain to the machinists that wheel companies commonly drill out the centerbore for specific sizes of vehicle centerbore. Even then I was only able to get a couple of places to say they would do it. I had to pass on those companies, however, because they wanted upwards of $200 per wheel to do it. Crazy talk, because I know other people have had it done for much, much less.

Rickady88GT,

quote But have you seen an 88 with a 7" wheel on front and a 50mm offset?

Mine. Close enough anyway, with the 17"x7" 48mm offset tsw stings. As I said before... they fit better, look better, and handle better than stock, for all of the reasons outlined previously in this thread. The math doesn't lie.

Skybax,

quote Most aftermarket rims have a larger bore and hubcentric rings are used. In the rare case they are fitted for just Subaru, the place your buying the rims from should have them professionally machined to the Fieros 57.1mm hub at no extra charge. If they don't, buy your rims from somebody else, or take them to a machine shop yourself. Never use a die grinder and any other method of uneven-ness or "home-style" quick-fix.

Although your advice is sound, and it is the same advice I would give to the average person, I must politely refute the direction of your advice towards myself. I DID use a die grinder and it DID work. I have an extremely steady hand, and an accomplished artist. I accurately paint corneas on eyeballs on lead D&D figures in my spare time. I use a microscope and a single human eyelash to do that type of painting. I used every bit of care on my wheels that I use on my artwork and figurines, and it was much easier than painting a figurine. The key to doing it was to work in very very small and careful increments with a hub in hand to continuously test fit until it's right. I have no doubt that some people would be just as able to accomplish it, just as I have a handful of friends with the same painting hobbies and skills that I have. I also reasoned that if I screwed it up I could easily pay the exorbitant prices to get the wheels bored out with a machine and then use a centering ring to get the perfect fit, so it never hurts to try.

As another alternative, I was looking at my brake cylinder hone the other day and thought it was the perfect size for boring out a wheel... It may be another cheaper option that would be more "perfect". I wish I had thought of it earlier, but my wheel job came before my brake job.

All that being said, I perfectly agree with you as long as you can find a reasonable price to have it machined.

Just like ****, professional is always better, but there's nothing wrong with a skilled amateur.

Raydar,
Those are beautiful rims. I hope they work out for you! I have no doubt that if they come in the right centerbores you may start a new trend in wheels for the 88 fiero, so prepare to be copied!