This is for anyone who has bonded fiberglass parts to their hood or decklid? What is the preferred adhesive? (It will be riveted, too.) I will also probably need to use a little bit of fiberglass cloth, as there are some gaps to fill. I was thinking about using epoxy resin. Good idea? Bad idea? Will normal SMC filler stick to epoxy, once I get ready to smooth the surface?
Any help will be appreciated. If I screw this up it will be ugly (and expensive.)
I also have cracks in my roof panel that go from the edges, toward the front corners of the sunroof. I was thinking about grinding a "V" where the crack is, filling that "V" with epoxy to seal the crack, sanding the epoxy to roughen it up, then filling with SMC filler to smooth the surface. Will that work?
I only mention SMC filler since I have heard that regular bondo is *not* to be used. Right?
I am always open to suggestions and advice. I *really* don't want to have to do this more than once.
------------------ Raydar 88 3.4 coupe........... Coming soon... 88 Formula, presently under the knife. Read Nealz Nuze!
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09:00 PM
PFF
System Bot
88 Formula Member
Posts: 608 From: Baden, PA USA Registered: Aug 2003
Epoxy will work. not bondo! I think 3M makes a SMC epoxy but i'm sure "west system" or others will work. Heat could be a prob, but 160 degrees is the limit for most epoxies. Some of the new urethane adhesives have real success too!
good luck!
------------------ Denise, SE PA Black 86 SE, Jasper 2.8, 5spd iszsu (Carlise 1st place winner stock highmile notchback 2yrs! ) 86 SE stock 2.8, Ttop, 4spd muncie, restored, Yellow
I would grind a little valley into the roof on the outside and lay a little fiberglass down then fill the rest with SMC filler. On the back just grind it down to the fibers and lay some glass over that. That's what I did to a roof section I fixed and it seemed very sturdy. I used Bondo instead of SMC filler and it hasn't been on the car yet but the A pillar went front being broken in half to being nice and strong again when I was finished.
------------------ Alan Frazier '86 GT-'92 3.4 TDC 5 speed(sold) '84 2m4 project car
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12:00 AM
Francis T Member
Posts: 6620 From: spotsylvania va. usa Registered: Oct 2003
There is a two part adhesive used on (saturns and corvettes) that is obtainable at most auto paint supply store ($10) that the bodyshops use for repairs that mix together and applied to the parts tp be bonded that when cured will never come apart,I used this extensively on my body work. Just grind in the hood surface removing the paint and the bottom of the scoop to be bonded then attatch then together and let it dry (rivets are not needed if you use the two part adhesive )then fiber glass the edges and let dry,you can use SMC compatible feather lite bondo and apply thinly then sand to finish ....hope that help.
[This message has been edited by Master Tuner Akimoto (edited 06-24-2005).]
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08:15 AM
opm2000 Member
Posts: 1347 From: Versailles, Ky USA Heart of the Bluegrass Registered: Dec 2000
I usually finish off the 'blending' with a thin layer of icing (Flowable Finishing Putty). Its very fine and dries with no pinholing, very easy to sand, just dont put it on thick like filler. It dont shrink with age and even adheres to sanded paint. Just prime and paint over it.
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02:26 PM
Raydar Member
Posts: 41112 From: Carrollton GA. Out in the... country. Registered: Oct 1999
I plan on using SMC panel adhesive for a couple scoops. To feather the edges into the hood, can I use fiberglass and "regular" polyester fiberglass resin? Or will it pop off the hood? In otherwords, for something non structural, is it worth buying the special "SMC safe formulated" fiberglass resin like David pointed out?
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04:37 PM
shawnkfl Member
Posts: 2457 From: Largo, Florida Registered: Oct 2004
if the SMC panel adhesive is a polester bas you'll be fine with polyester resin. check it to make sure. polyester and epoxy resins don't like each other.