Well, being that this is a technical forum, I was hoping to get a little more info than a phone number. - 3800superfast, if you get any info, would you mind posting?
After getting a tip on the Fiero front end and finding out it was from the Corvar(?) I plan on leaving the power steering pump on my 3800SC and getting a Chrysler mini van rack like I did on my 34 coupe that used that front end then I have to get the lines made. I just need to remember what steering rack and year I bought; it bolted right up and even fit the tie rod ends. If I get lucky they will all be the same. I will take a rack to my local parts store and try to get the right one. If this kit is priced accordingly this should be a nice option.
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12:25 PM
Doug Chase Member
Posts: 1487 From: Seattle area, Washington State, USA Registered: Sep 2001
What is included in the $1500 kit? It looks like you still need to purchase and install hydraulic lines to the motor, and purchase and install a power steering pump on the motor. True?
What is included in the $150 "mounting hardware" kit? I'm confused by the large price difference between this and the more extensive kit. Steering racks can be had for $350 - $400 including core charge. This leaves a $1000 gap between the two kits. What is left out of the "mounting hardware" kit?
Just my opinion, but, why would you need PS on a Fiero? I took the steering damper off, and it steers with a couple of fingers.
Arn
This always comes up. My answers are:
1) Obviously I'm a little wussy man and don't have the arm strength to steer a Fiero and 2) I want a faster steering rack for racing, and a faster rack would require power assist.
PLEASE don't start ANOTHER "why do you want power steering" deal. Let's hope that the info posted here will be helpful to those of us that DO want it ....
What is included in the $1500 kit? It looks like you still need to purchase and install hydraulic lines to the motor, and purchase and install a power steering pump on the motor. True?
What is included in the $150 "mounting hardware" kit? I'm confused by the large price difference between this and the more extensive kit. Steering racks can be had for $350 - $400 including core charge. This leaves a $1000 gap between the two kits. What is left out of the "mounting hardware" kit?
Are you saying the kit cost 1500 bucks? That is outrageous I just don’t understand why it would be so expensive. All you need is the PS pump on the motor lines and a rack I'm lost if I'm missing anything please let me know. I already have the pump on my 3800SC so when I get the rack I will post the part number for that, the lines should be easy any hydraulic place can do that and if you are running a 2.8 just go to a junk yard and get brackets off a front wheel drive car or truck with a 2.8 and the pump. Maybe the front wheel drive stuff will fit too. For that matter a lot of new cars are coming out with electric power steering there is another option. I will post my progress on diyfiero.com on this becouse every time I try to help I get bashed here.
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09:28 PM
May 6th, 2006
RCR Member
Posts: 4416 From: Shelby Twp Mi Registered: Sep 2002
355... Post it here, man. Don't worry about the bashers. Power steering isn't for everyone, but it's on my list of things to do. (At least post it at Ari's ) You've already got a plus from me...
Bob
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07:45 AM
mcaanda Member
Posts: 3652 From: Grand Junction Colorado Registered: Mar 2003
Originally posted by Doug Chase: This always comes up. My answers are: 1) Obviously I'm a little wussy man and don't have the arm strength to steer a Fiero and 2) I want a faster steering rack for racing, and a faster rack would require power assist.
HA! Your not the only one Doug, I guess I’m a wuss as well. Great answer
quote
Originally posted by Doug Chase: What is included in the $1500 kit? It looks like you still need to purchase and install hydraulic lines to the motor, and purchase and install a power steering pump on the motor. True? What is included in the $150 "mounting hardware" kit? I'm confused by the large price difference between this and the more extensive kit. Steering racks can be had for $350 - $400 including core charge. This leaves a $1000 gap between the two kits. What is left out of the "mounting hardware" kit?
While I can not comment on the “where’s the real cost” at as I have no idea, I can and will say that you are able to obtain power steering racks online for A LOT less than you’d think. Core charge – what’s that? Yes, you will have to contend with the fact that the rack is going to be used, but hey, so was 99% of the rest of my Fiero when I bought it also. If it’s got a warranty, I'm good to go. Sheesh, I know my power rack out of the 2ooo WS6 TA was only 75 bucks or so shipped.
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Originally posted by F355spider: Are you saying the kit cost 1500 bucks? That is outrageous I just don’t understand why it would be so expensive
R&D Costs I suppose.
quote
Originally posted by F355spider: …. All you need is the PS pump on the motor lines and a rack I'm lost if I'm missing anything please let me know. I already have the pump on my 3800SC so when I get the rack I will post the part number for that, the lines should be easy any hydraulic place can do that …
On the lines, you can do that yourself; I have seen some of your work & I'm more than sure that you can handle it. Save some chits and the money saved can be spent elsewhere.
As for the rack, I’d personally suggest the F-Body racks if you are going to be going at this yourself. The ratio is great, and the assist is nice as well being that I have larger rims and tires on the front end of my Fiero than most have on the rear. Driving with the faster ratio will blow your mind, it’s such a riot, and one hell of a:
--Allen
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** Rice; it's what's COOKIN **
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12:27 PM
StuGood Member
Posts: 3172 From: Wichita, KS, USA Registered: Jun 2000
This may be kind of obvious, and it certainly isn't for everyone - but just another option... if you happen to have a "slower"-ratio steering rack from say, an SE, you can swap it for the existing "fast"-ratio rack, in order to reduce the steering effort. Not the same as power steering, of course, but might be an option for someone whose co-driver/ spouse complains that "I can't drive your car because it's too hard to steer," and can't fund a conversion to power steering. Just FWIW.
BTW, F355spider, think the car you're referring to is a "Corvair." The Corvair never had power steering, either, AFAIK. Nor rack-and-pinion. It had a "traditional" steering gear with pittman (sp?) arm. In any case, hope you are able to make a commonly-available power rack work on the Fiero, it's always nice to have options !
Not to get off topic, just contributing a couple tidbits/ options. I'm done.
[This message has been edited by StuGood (edited 05-07-2006).]
355... Post it here, man. Don't worry about the bashers. Power steering isn't for everyone, but it's on my list of things to do. (At least post it at Ari's ) You've already got a plus from me...
Bob
I lost my password at Ari's and do not have the same email so I cannot retrieve it I already started it yesterday. I have the rack out and trying to get the SC lined up but I got it out of whack so I have to pull the cradle and start over. The Alternator is also hitting the shock tower also so I have to move the motor back. I am running 9 inch wide rims on the front of the 355 so power steering will be nice.
BTW, F355spider, think the car you're referring to is a "Corvair." The Corvair never had power steering, either, AFAIK. Nor rack-and-pinion. It had a "traditional" steering gear with pittman (sp?) arm. In any case, hope you are able to make a commonly-available power rack work on the Fiero, it's always nice to have options !
Yes you are right I used a Corvair front end on my 34 but I changed it over to disk and power rack a GM engineer told me the front end under the Fiero is the same as the Corvair that is why I said that. The rack I used bolted on and fit the tie rod ends so I just have to remember which one.
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06:55 PM
Chris Dusome Member
Posts: 65 From: midland Onatio Canada Registered: Feb 2006
I was told wrong about the front end you are right here is a good link to take care of this it is a very good detail link to put power steering on the Fiero even gives part numbers. and will not cost that much http://www.ammoman.com/Fiero/ChevettePS.htm I plan to find a better rack that does not use the ends he used but if you want it done this works.
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01:10 PM
May 9th, 2006
Rickady88GT Member
Posts: 10649 From: Central CA Registered: Dec 2002
The Chevette rack is a POOR choice for power steering in ANY Fiero. The ratio (which is why I do it) is slow. And the rack is very short. If you do want to use the Chevette rack PLEASE DONT use the tie rod extenders like the ones in that thread. That will adversely affect your suspension geometry ( the ride will suck, or may even be dangerous) Bump steer is a BAD thing and that is what you will add to your Fiero by extending the Tie Rods. To do the job right you need to add an adapter between the rack gear and the inner tie rods (the inner ball joint). That will allow you to maintain the stock Fiero geometry by moving the inner tie rods (ball joints) out to the stock location. There is NO simple power steering rack conversion for Fiero's. Don't be suckered in by the "it's easy" hype. To do the job right, you will need to work at it. DONT cut corners in the name of "doing it the easy way" I have done "F" body racks and a Vette rack. But first I got my hands on a Chevette rack. I almost tossed it in the trash can after all the draw backs I found in it. Now I just keep it around because for some reason I just don't throw away junk?
I think WCF may have a good thing going with the kit they offer? Just bolt a plate to the X member and then bolt the rack to the plate with no cutting or welding? Sounds cool, but does it "miss align" or reposition the rack? If so it may affect the Geometry? I would install a WCF power steering conversion any day for $1,500 over a $150 Chevette rack conversion. It looks like the WCF kit uses an F body rack? If so that is a very good rack for the Fiero. It has draw backs, but a very good rack when installed correctly.
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01:43 AM
Steven Snyder Member
Posts: 3324 From: Los Angeles, CA Registered: Mar 2004
The WCF kit uses an F-body rack. It's my understanding that the "mounting hardware" kit comes with the necessary brackets and tie rod adapters to get the rack installed up front. The "complete kit" comes with a rack, power steering lines, brackets, and adapters. For the extra price I imagine it must also come with a power steering pump and brackets for whatever motor you're using (so you could, for example, put it on a stock Fiero). I'll try to find out the details for you guys.
[This message has been edited by Steven Snyder (edited 05-09-2006).]
$150 for all the adaptors & mounting hardware for the rack itself would be a worthwhile investment. I too would be interested in the details of the basic "kit" and what it entails (or more like what it needs to be completed). A rack, pump, and lines should be no problem.
I will debate with you a little. I do agree about finding a better rack for myself but the Chevette might be fine for others I do think you are wrong about bump steer it is on the back of the car not the front. If the rod size is the same length it will not matter if you extend it inner or outer. One problem with this statement is you forget to let every one know this is your opinion and could be misleading. I have been told more BS from people that own Fieros than the entire BS from the rest of my life. I think a lot of people would be happy with this set up and the very few would be happy with the kit offered while others just don’t give a crap. If you say the ratio is poor then please list it compared to the Fiero ratio I do not know it but plan to find out I think it would be nice to know the different ratio of the racks. I would not use the tie rod ends used in the thread because they do not fit the spindles but others out there might want to the person that did it did not mind. I do think the majority of Fiero owners do not want to spend 1500 bucks on power steering and would like to find the best set up for the best price and of course this is only my opinion, as I cannot speak for others. We do need to remember that sometimes a real tight ratio for a daily driver is bad it will make the car to twitchy and a more relaxed steering will feel better on the HWY a short wheel base car will respond good anyway and in most cases does not need to be like a race car. I like West Coast Fieros I think they do some nice work and they have been very helpful to me when I call Chris he has always answered my questions even if it was not the one I wanted but I respect them for being honest with me I just don’t have money to waste or throw away and I like to find the best bang for the buck. If I had it to blow and did not have the time or the knowledge I would use them over others.
I do think you are wrong about bump steer it is on the back of the car not the front. If the rod size is the same length it will not matter if you extend it inner or outer. One problem with this statement is you forget to let every one know this is your opinion and could be misleading.
You're kidding right? There may currently be minimal bump steer in the front suspension, but by changing things - you actually create it! And yes... that's very bad!
It's basic suspension/steering geometry: by changing the mounting location & distance of the tie rod, vertical changes in the suspension (caused by vertical travel of the hub & wheel over bumps) will change the effective length of the steering arm (thus changing the toe angle of the wheel).
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Definition of bumpsteer: Bump-steer is a change in toe* angle caused by the suspension moving up or down. Bump-steer is built into the geometry of the suspension and steering system, and has nothing to do with turning the steering wheel. The effect of bump-steer is for the wheel to toe-in or toe-out when the suspension moves up or down. This toe change or "steering" occurs any time the suspension moves, whether it is from body roll, brake-dive, or hitting a bump in the road. Bump steer is undesirable because the suspension is steering the car instead of the driver.
Cause of bumpsteer: The front wheels do not move directly straight up or down when the car hits a bump. Instead, the wheel follows an arc, or curving path, that pushes the wheel slightly inward (towards the centerline of the car) or outward (away from the car) in response to vertical wheel movement. The outer tie-rod (which connects the steering rack to the wheel) also moves in-and-out in an arc as it moves up and down. If the rate which the outer tie-rod arcs in or out does not match the rate the wheel moves in or out, the wheel will be turned by the tie-rod. This is bumpsteer. The center point of the arc traveled by the wheel (known as the instant-center) is controlled by the location and angle of the moving suspension links. This point moves as the ride height changes. In contrast, the arc of the outer tie-rod is controlled by the position of the steering rack, which is fixed. In order to eliminate bumpsteer, both the length and the center point of the two arcs must be the same. However, since the instant center moves with ride height, bumpsteer cannot be eliminated throughout the entire range of suspension travel. Therefore suspension designers concentrate on minimizing bumpsteer within the range of movement closest to factory ride height. Changing the ride height or other suspension components may move the suspension outside this narrow "optimized" window.
To fix a bumpsteer problem, you need to alter the height of outer tie-rod relative to the steering rack. Small changes in this relationship can be made with offset rack bushings. Making big changes requires adjustable tie-rod ends, also known as a bumpsteer kit.
This is a good diagram as well: (by changing the "instant center" shown on the diagram... you would completely change the geometry that the suspension was originally designed for:
[This message has been edited by MinnGreenGT (edited 05-09-2006).]
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03:47 PM
Flyguyeddy Member
Posts: 568 From: pekin, Il USA Registered: Dec 2003
um, if you modify the front suspension by moving the steering pivot points inward you WILL have bump steer. i dont care what you think, its a fact of life.
355, yes it is my opinion that the Chevette rack sux. BUT my opinion is based purely on fact. If any one wants to use the Chevette rack, it will work as long as they realize that the ratio will not change from the stock Fiero and it is NOT a bolt on rack. The effort my be lighter and that is a good thing. BUT you are wrong about the "bump steer" I know for a fact what I said is true. Do not make the mistake of putting the tie rod extenders on the ends of the tie rods. This will cause an adverse bump steer condition. This is fact! Not my opinion. The reason the bump steer will change is because the relation between the inner (ball joint) tie rods and the pivot point of the A arms will change. This means that the tie rods will follow a different arc than the A arms. This will cause the end of the tie rod to pull the steering arm in and out as the A arms travel up and down, that is what causes bump steer. The inner tie rod location is a CRITICAL dimension to the suspension system. Bump steer is on ALL cars, not just the rear of the Fiero. As long as the suspension is set up properly it is not a problem and in the case of modern suspension systems it is used to better control the car. In other words the factories now incorporate bump steer into the suspension, front and rear BUT at a VERY calculated rate. This is part of the reason newer suspension systems are getting better. They use every little trick to control the wheels under the optimum conditions. The pre88 Fieros used a front suspension in the rear of the car, but they never "finished " the job. They left a hap-hazard suspension in the final product.
The fact is that the ONLY time any one can "get away" with tie rod extenders on ANY rack that is a different length than the stock Fiero rack is if they never drive the car. Or if they don't care about a good handling car then go for it. If you want your car to drive properly then NEVER use ANY rack with tie rod extenders. If you do want the Chevette rack (I cant imagine why any one would chose this rack it is a poor choice for the Fiero) then do the job right. Take off the inner tie rods and have a machine shop produce the proper adapters to screw onto the rack. Then buy new Fiero tie rods and screw them onto the adapters. If you don't know what I am talking about , here is a pic of what the adapters will look like I made the adapters for a Corvette power steering rack but the Chevette rack will use a similar style adapter. Notice that one adapter is longer than the other. That is because the Fiero has the steering input shaft at a different angle and position that most other cars. So to properly place the rack in the Fiero I had to move it closer to the driver side wheel. Other wise you will probably need to hack the crap out of your front foot well/fire wall to locate the steering shaft for the new rack. In the thread I saw with the Chevette rack they cut out a hole large enough for a foot to fit thru.
Like I said the Chevette rack is a POOR choice for the Fiero and that is my opinion based on fact.
Mingreen you beat me to it, I need to type faster
[This message has been edited by Rickady88GT (edited 05-09-2006).]
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04:06 PM
Rickady88GT Member
Posts: 10649 From: Central CA Registered: Dec 2002
I will debate with you a little. I do agree about finding a better rack for myself but the Chevette might be fine for others I do think you are wrong about bump steer it is on the back of the car not the front. If the rod size is the same length it will not matter if you extend it inner or outer. One problem with this statement is you forget to let every one know this is your opinion and could be misleading. I have been told more BS from people that own Fieros than the entire BS from the rest of my life. I think a lot of people would be happy with this set up and the very few would be happy with the kit offered while others just don’t give a crap. If you say the ratio is poor then please list it compared to the Fiero ratio I do not know it but plan to find out I think it would be nice to know the different ratio of the racks. I would not use the tie rod ends used in the thread because they do not fit the spindles but others out there might want to the person that did it did not mind. I do think the majority of Fiero owners do not want to spend 1500 bucks on power steering and would like to find the best set up for the best price and of course this is only my opinion, as I cannot speak for others. We do need to remember that sometimes a real tight ratio for a daily driver is bad it will make the car to twitchy and a more relaxed steering will feel better on the HWY a short wheel base car will respond good anyway and in most cases does not need to be like a race car. I like West Coast Fieros I think they do some nice work and they have been very helpful to me when I call Chris he has always answered my questions even if it was not the one I wanted but I respect them for being honest with me I just don’t have money to waste or throw away and I like to find the best bang for the buck. If I had it to blow and did not have the time or the knowledge I would use them over others.
The first time I saw this reply I did not get to far into it before I responded. Now that I went back to read it I have even more disagreements with your opinion. But I anit in the mood right now to get any deeper. I drive on a regular basis an 88GT with a much faster ratio power steering rack installed. It is PERFECT. the effort is light but not over boosted and the ratio is SUPERB for a sports car and not twitchy at all. BUT you do need a few miles to get used to the faster ratio. The stock Fiero ratio is far from a sports car feel.
If you say the ratio is poor then please list it compared to the Fiero ratio I do not know it but plan to find out I think it would be nice to know the different ratio of the racks.
The following data was compiled from numerous steering-related threads:
The Fiero is almost 3.5 turns lock to lock. The Fiero rack gear moves 1.5" per turn of the steering wheel. The Fiero has 5" of travel.
The ZR1 has 2.0 turns lock to lock. The ZR1 rack moves 2.25" per turn of the steering wheel. the ZR1 rack has about 4.5" of travel (With wide tires this means nothing).
The F-Body rack is 2.25 turns Lock to Lock. The F-Body Rack has 4" of travel.
84-94 Vette racks are basicaly the same. The non-ZR1/sport racks have 2.5 turns lock to lock.
The Merkur xr4ti rack, I believe is 2.7 Turns Lock-to-lock (per here)
The Chevette Rack is 4" shorter than the Fiero. As far as I can tell, the ratio is the same though (so no "quickness" advantage, only the power support).
[This message has been edited by MinnGreenGT (edited 05-10-2006).]
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04:34 PM
PFF
System Bot
May 10th, 2006
PaulJK Member
Posts: 6638 From: Los Angeles Registered: Oct 2001
The fact is that the ONLY time any one can "get away" with tie rod extenders on ANY rack that is a different length than the stock Fiero rack is if they never drive the car. Or if they don't care about a good handling car then go for it. If you want your car to drive properly then NEVER use ANY rack with tie rod extenders. I made the adapters for a Corvette power steering rack but the Chevette rack will use a similar style adapter. Notice that one adapter is longer than the other. That is because the Fiero has the steering input shaft at a different angle and position that most other cars. So to properly place the rack in the Fiero I had to move it closer to the driver side wheel. Other wise you will probably need to hack the crap out of your front foot well/fire wall to locate the steering shaft for the new rack. In the thread I saw with the Chevette rack they cut out a hole large enough for a foot to fit thru.
Like I said the Chevette rack is a POOR choice for the Fiero and that is my opinion based on fact.
I guess listening to your preaching, that I should never drive my car!!@! I take exception! "The fact is that the ONLY time any one can "get away" with tie rod extenders on ANY rack that is a different length than the stock Fiero rack is if they never drive the car. Or if they don't care about a good handling car then go for it. If you want your car to drive properly then NEVER use ANY rack with tie rod extenders. "
While my Koenig has very little left that's Fiero, it has power steering using an 87-89 Dakota rack, and god forbid, 2" extenders! Oh yeah, in my previous life, I used to professionaly roadrace factory Yamahas (TZ750&250), so handling would be out of the question.... just use the seat of my pants!!! I would suggest that most putting in power steering will have already done numerous changes to their suspension already. ie lowering, widening... my frt wheels are larger that most Fiero rears...! 255/45/17. changes that will already affect said bumpsteer! The most important aspect to understand is that bumpsteer wil always be there, how much?, that is up to the individual. Most frt suspensions will not move more than 2" travel up or down. Dry fitting your steering system and manually moving it up and down through it's travel (springs not installed) will allow you to find your 'sweetspot' (ride height) and, see how much your steering arc will affect/produce bumpsteer. 'YELLOW88' did a really good explanation of this a year ago.... While the Dakota rack needed a mount bracket attached to the crossmember, I SLOTTED said bracket for adjustment proposes. Slotting allows (up/down) for adjustment to bumpsteer, or to adjust your sweetspot.
"Other wise you will probably need to hack the crap out of your front foot well/fire wall to locate the steering shaft for the new rack. In the thread I saw with the Chevette rack they cut out a hole large enough for a foot to fit thru. "
the Dakota rack uses the fiero steering hole as well as the plastic collar around it!! no HACKING, no FOOT hole! You stated that you use adapters yourself, and unequal length ones at that! I would point to that as a more dangerous situation for bumpsteer, one that, depending on the unevenous of the roadway can produce two very different angles to the frt wheels.... sounds like that rack is a poor choice! or maybe I read that wrong.... While I will agree that the Chevette rack is a poor choice, especially for size, I think broad assumptions brought on by so-called experts, can be debated.... and sometimes proven that there are other solutions to a problem..... Sandy my rack thread... https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Archives/Archive-000001/HTML/20060206-2-060145.html
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09:27 AM
cowans Member
Posts: 630 From: Gloucester, Ontario Canada Registered: Aug 2000
Update.... just read Rickady88GT thread on his vette PS. Now understand that his adapters are for the inboard arms to adjust to the Fiero's inboard width.... good job! Sandy
Where does the standard covrette rack fit in that comparison (somewhere between F-body & ZR-1 ) ?
*info added - sorry I missed that one!
quote
Originally posted by cowans: ...in my previous life, I used to professionaly roadrace factory Yamahas (TZ750&250)
Not to threadjack, but that's cool... got pics & info?
Back on topic: It is true that you might get away with using longer tie rods instead of the rack extensions, but not doing the math to find out how far from spec you are could be a "reckless" move. Of course you can drive the car, but it's the handling at the limits (like when racing) that are most likely to be comprimised & become dangerous.
It's all about calculated risk - but not at least being aware of those ricks puts one in greater danger (as well as those around them).
[This message has been edited by MinnGreenGT (edited 05-10-2006).]
The following data was compiled from numerous steering-related threads:
The Fiero is almost 3.5 turns lock to lock. The Fiero rack gear moves 1.5" per turn of the steering wheel. The Fiero has 5" of travel.
The ZR1 has 2.0 turns lock to lock. The ZR1 rack moves 2.25" per turn of the steering wheel. the ZR1 rack has about 4.5" of travel (With wide tires this means nothing).
The F-Body rack is 2.25 turns Lock to Lock. The F-Body Rack has 4" of travel.
84-94 Vette racks are basicaly the same. The non-ZR1/sport racks have 2.5 turns lock to lock.
The Merkur xr4ti rack, I believe is 2.7 Turns Lock-to-lock (per here)
The Chevette Rack is 4" shorter than the Fiero. As far as I can tell, the ratio is the same though (so no "quickness" advantage, only the power support).
This helps me a lot and tells me I do not want to use the corvette rack way to fast. I want to stay with the Fiero ratio my cars steer fine for me and I do not like a twitchy steering wheel. The wheel base on the Fiero is a lot shorter than those cars and will magnify it more I need a rack that will be as close to the Fiero one as I can get to keep a more stock driving car. You guys need to remember that what you like is not always what others like and I believe a lot of this is exaggerated and we all know how many times I have been told here I was wrong but time will tell and I want to thank you all for your input but I will do it my way and stay with the KISS method.
The first time I saw this reply I did not get to far into it before I responded. Now that I went back to read it I have even more disagreements with your opinion. But I anit in the mood right now to get any deeper. I drive on a regular basis an 88GT with a much faster ratio power steering rack installed. It is PERFECT. the effort is light but not over boosted and the ratio is SUPERB for a sports car and not twitchy at all. BUT you do need a few miles to get used to the faster ratio. The stock Fiero ratio is far from a sports car feel.
I do not know if this is true or not but I was told WCF is using your setup for the kit and you get a kick back on it. If I was told wrong let me know if not it explains a lot. I disagree with you again. I think the Fiero steers great and I am sure others think the same. The only reason I want the power steering is the fact that I am running 9" wide rims on the front and 10.5" wide rims on the back and need a little assist other than that I would not waste my time on it.
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12:05 PM
Jermz238 Member
Posts: 1637 From: Newark, California Registered: Jan 2006
Not to threadjack, but that's cool... got pics & info?
Back on topic: It is true that you might get away with using longer tie rods instead of the rack extensions, but not doing the math to find out how far from spec you are could be a "reckless" move. Of course you can drive the car, but it's the handling at the limits (like when racing) that are most likely to be comprimised & become dangerous.
It's all about calculated risk - but not at least being aware of those ricks puts one in greater danger (as well as those around them).
question 1)...To be brief... have ridden most tracks in North America, had an AMA and FIM license, had the chance to ride Europe with a friend, but, in the end, declined. Best: rode with some of the very best... 'King' Kenny Roberts, Freddy Spencer(he was just coming up from Novice) Stevie Baker...lots of others!
2)....While I admitttibly drive fast & hard, I would not place myself in a car without confidence that it will do what it was designed for..... abuse! Sandy
[This message has been edited by cowans (edited 05-10-2006).]
Just my opinion, but, why would you need PS on a Fiero? I took the steering damper off, and it steers with a couple of fingers.
) You've already got a plus from me...
! 
