Hey everyone, I am new to the forums but have been reading them for quite some time. I got my Fiero (88 GT 5spd) a couple of months ago with the intent of swaping in a 350. A month later when the money situation was more figured out, I got the kit and the motor. Currently, the old motor is sittin on the ground with the new one being prepared. The only thing I still have to figure out is exactly how it will be mounted. Poly vs. solid essentially. I liked the idea of the motor mount being poly, as apposed to being welded to the cradle, but other than that I dont know exactly what I want or what is available. Any suggestions ? How is yours set up? Thanks! -Jeff
[This message has been edited by JeffB (edited 10-24-2005).]
Welcome to the club. I'm going to mount mine solid. My kit is used and the last guy had a lot of problems with busted tranny mounts. Polly may hold up but Im not going to take a chance.
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01:50 PM
motoman Member
Posts: 32 From: Beaumont AB Canada Registered: Jul 2005
Hey welcome to the forums, im kinda new around here myself. I got a question for you guys. Which kit did you guys order? Deluxe? Master? or the Economy? Is it worth it to just to go all out and get the master kit?
I got a 85 Fiero that will have the same swap also. but im also goin from an auto to 5spd.
I used an archie kit, the front engine mount is solid mounted and the transaxle is mounted using Rodney's Poly mounts. No problems yet. The torque strut is also solid mounted.
------------------ 88GT T-Tops, #366 of 1252 Now with V8 Power :)
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05:55 PM
theratdude64 Member
Posts: 236 From: Ogden, UT USA Registered: Sep 2005
I used an archie kit, the front engine mount is solid mounted and the transaxle is mounted using Rodney's Poly mounts. No problems yet. The torque strut is also solid mounted.
Thanks for the greetings. Newfie or Alex, thanks for your input. It is great to hear of peoples experience. Might you be able to send me in the direction of Rodney's poly mounts ?? That would be great. -Jeff
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03:33 AM
tesmith66 Member
Posts: 7355 From: Jerseyville, IL Registered: Sep 2001
Just got the new throw out bearing today, getting the proper clutch pilot tool tomorrow. The remote oil filter set-up is ready, leaving only the alignment of the starter, alignment pins for the trans and the clutch assembly keeping me from bolting up the trans. One quick question however: If the clutch plate has gotten a very small amount of grease or oil/(whatevers on your hand while workign on a car ) on it, what is the best method for cleaning it ? Thanks -Jeff
Just got the new throw out bearing today, getting the proper clutch pilot tool tomorrow. The remote oil filter set-up is ready, leaving only the alignment of the starter, alignment pins for the trans and the clutch assembly keeping me from bolting up the trans. One quick question however: If the clutch plate has gotten a very small amount of grease or oil/(whatevers on your hand while workign on a car ) on it, what is the best method for cleaning it ? Thanks -Jeff
Brake cleaner willl clean it.
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05:20 PM
JaxDomino Member
Posts: 322 From: Jacksonville, FL, USA Registered: Oct 2005
Where are you guys getting the 350 engines from? Also, I would reather have a N* since it's a very nice technology that is similar to the HEMI in function. What type of Caddy shoulld I look for when visiting the salvage yards?
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08:30 PM
tvelarde Member
Posts: 173 From: Washington State Registered: Feb 2004
Welcome JeffB! I am pretty new also but have finished my V8 swap (do any of us really ever finish a V8 swap??)
I used a kit from FYRON8, a guy named Jerry in Idaho who sells about 8 kits per year. My engine and trans are solid mounted as well as the cradle. Handles like a go kart, no cracks yet.
Thanks Jake, I wasnt sure if break cleaner was no good for clutch plates or not. JaxDomino, I found my motor on www.racingjunk.com It is a heavily trafficed site, so if you browse here and there you might find something you want close to home ? I was fortunate enough to find something I wanted 3 blocks away I couldnt tell you anything about waht to look for in a N*. Good luck with that though. Hahh tvelarde, I sure hope I finish the swap. I have quite some time... I got all winter. Having everything solid mounted seems like it would rattle the whole car ? Ive actually looked around on your site before, not sure how I found it, but its some good stuff. It is great to see these swaps so well documented. Hopefully ill add my 2 cents somewhere along the line. -Jeff
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12:06 AM
tesmith66 Member
Posts: 7355 From: Jerseyville, IL Registered: Sep 2001
i using a mild 350 with a edlebrock homeowner kit in it. i'm still using the rubber mounts on the tranny with 30,000 miles on them. go with what ever you feel like.
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07:41 AM
JacobHaley Member
Posts: 269 From: Columbus, OH Registered: Feb 2003
Thank you for the positive comments on my swap and my web site. I used solid mounts throughout simply because I was too ignorant to think that the rubber or poly mounts would have been appropriate at the time with the kit I had. My engine is very well balanced even with its horsepower, although at very low idle my glasses tend to bounce a bit on my nose... Hard to be so concerned with it since I love the sound and the radical lope.
I did install a poly mount on the front engine mount for a short period but felt no real differenece in vibration or adverse movement. I took it out and installed it in another vehicle that actually needed it and returned to my solid mounts.
I too can feel every nuance as the engine hiccups or if a spark plug wire happens to arc. Every move is telegraphed to an aware driver, my sister doesn't notice the harse ride since she is a race driver and is used to driving cars that make your teeth rattle.
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01:48 PM
JeffB Member
Posts: 47 From: Arlington Heights, IL, USA Registered: Oct 2005
For a second there I was liking the idea of solid mounting the motor and trans but then soft mounting the cradle. After reading about how doing this effects handling I dont like the idea anymore. So I know the cradles going to be solid, and I know the motors going to be solid, just have to decide what to do about the trans. Thanks for all your input, it has been helpful. more pictures soon/ oh and also, Archies directions call for 35 foot pounds of pressure when installing the pressure plate, but the bolts that came in the package with the flywheel say to torque to 25 foot pounds. I would assume I should then just torque them to 25? also, is there any certain trick in getting the alignment pins out of the motor ? or is it simply pb blaster a torch and elbow grease ? thanks! -Jeff
[This message has been edited by JeffB (edited 10-26-2005).]
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07:36 PM
Oct 30th, 2005
Alex4mula Member
Posts: 7405 From: Canton, MI US Registered: Dec 1999
Alignment dowels just wouldn"t come out of my 350. But, I read somewhere that if you filled them with grease in the hollow area and then inserted a steel rod the diameter of the hollow portion of the dowel, hit it with a hammer and it would pop out. Sure enough, I felt like a magician- it just popped right out, easy- peasy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
------------------ 1962 Morris Mini 1966 Corvette Roadster 427/425 1986 Fiero 350/Izusu 5 spd 2003 Mini Cooper S 2005 Mazda RX8 Shinka
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12:01 AM
Nov 1st, 2005
JeffB Member
Posts: 47 From: Arlington Heights, IL, USA Registered: Oct 2005
I ended up going with 30ish, I didnt think it wouldbe too much of a probelm. Thatd be awesome if we met up once Alex. Ive read your build up thread a lot before I started undertaking my project. Sweet car I must say. I ended up deciding to go with the solid motor mount and poly trans mounts from Rodney. Thanks again for all the feedback on that. BJC I assume you mean your stock motor? I never thought of trying that, sounds like a great idea. I ended up borrowing an inside pipe wrench from my friend. It looksl ike a clutch pilot tool, exept made from metal and it has one portion that pivots, so when you spin it it wedges itself in there real good. I broke the pins loose with that and weasled them out : )
Now im waiting on my phantom grip and trans mounts in the mail before I can get some serious work done.
-Jeff
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12:49 AM
Nov 5th, 2005
JeffB Member
Posts: 47 From: Arlington Heights, IL, USA Registered: Oct 2005
Got the new poly for the suspension and the new trans mounts from Rodney. Just waiting on the phantom grip. To occupy myself untill that comes I am painting the rear suspension components in between changing the bushings. Here are some pictures:
and I got my mufflers, I decided to go with Moroso spiral flow. I still have to do some measuring once the motor is in the car but I think I might be able to have the cat and the mufflers in there at the same time.. i was guna messa round with being able to bolt in the cat or the muffler. here http://community.webshots.com/photo/480117603/505327326AgskqM
annnnnd now for my question ! hope someone can help :/ I got my phantom grip in the mail finally and popped open the trans this evening, it went smoothly except once I pryed off one side to a certain point it wouldnt go anymore. The halves are about 3/8ths of an inch seperated and it wont budge. I dont want to break anything, so i decided i would rather ask here first than to force it. The diff side of the case is free as well as the bottom half, it seems like the top half isnt though, so I took a picture. i hope someone can help : D ! http://community.webshots.com/photo/480117603/505327540zvTMHP
PS sorry i dont have the hang of posting pics so you dont have to click on a link : /
Thanks. -Jeff
[This message has been edited by JeffB (edited 11-15-2005).]
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03:39 AM
California Kid Member
Posts: 9541 From: Metro Detroit Area, Michigan Registered: Jul 2001
Everything solid mounted on mine, with no torque strut in place. No issues since it was converted in 1993, and no one has ever complained of excessive vibration.
Alright I got that problem taken care of, started a more specific thread to get the problem solved quickly. I have to say this forum is great ! The trans is in half and the carrier is awaiting the phantom grip still, since they forgot to send me the tuning shims. They shuold be here tomorrow so hopefully I can get that together and bolt it up to the motor. Should be ready for a test fit this weekend/ In the mean time I have been cleaning up the engine bay, grinding off old thigns and insulating it.
The blue line(s) runs to the charcoal canister right behind where the air box was. On the other end it goes into the fender and I am not sure what it does in there. Should I retain the blue lines ?? or are they, the charcoal canister and all the other vacuum lines ( other than the break booster) gone? This is a carburated swap if that makes a difference.
Thanks -Jeff
[This message has been edited by JeffB (edited 11-22-2005).]
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02:37 AM
PFF
System Bot
Nov 23rd, 2005
JeffB Member
Posts: 47 From: Arlington Heights, IL, USA Registered: Oct 2005
Got the V belt pulley for the alternator today and decided that the alt. would look much nicer painted. Dont recall ever seing it done before, as simple of a job as it is. What do you think ?
Update: Got the Phantom Grip installed, trans is bolted up to the motor now and sitting on the cradle. Should be doin a trial fit tomorrow. Here are a few pictures of how the mounts are situated.
Be very careful if you mix poly transmission mounts with a solid engine mount. There will be some flex in the poly, but none at the solid mount. This will cause the poly mounts to be stressed more than normal and can lead to premature mount failure, brackets bending, and even a cracked cradle. Many have done it with good results - just be aware of the potential problems and keep an eye out for them.
Ideally you want the same kind of mounts all the way around: all solid, all poly, all rubber, etc.
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11:15 PM
Dec 29th, 2005
Alex4mula Member
Posts: 7405 From: Canton, MI US Registered: Dec 1999
That picture does kind of make it look pretty low. It sticks under the bottom of the side of the cradle 2.25 inches. Does yours not go under the cradle at all ? I cant imagine itd be too hard for me to fix, and id rather do it now while its in the air.
Just have to hook up the cooling system and the wiring, then its just miscellaneous things like throttle cable and shift linkage etc.
Be very careful if you mix poly transmission mounts with a solid engine mount. There will be some flex in the poly, but none at the solid mount. This will cause the poly mounts to be stressed more than normal and can lead to premature mount failure, brackets bending, and even a cracked cradle. Many have done it with good results - just be aware of the potential problems and keep an eye out for them.
Ideally you want the same kind of mounts all the way around: all solid, all poly, all rubber, etc.
I skipped through the thread real fast, Welcome to the Forum!! This is a very informative peice of advice above--don`t mix-n-match mounts, I`m paying the price now for it on mine. I`m nearing 50 years old, and poly is my preference--solid will beat you to death--again I`m getting older , I would probally have gone solid and loved it 25 years ago, anyway good luck , looks like a nice fast ride...
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07:53 AM
Alex4mula Member
Posts: 7405 From: Canton, MI US Registered: Dec 1999
That picture does kind of make it look pretty low. It sticks under the bottom of the side of the cradle 2.25 inches. Does yours not go under the cradle at all ? I cant imagine itd be too hard for me to fix, and id rather do it now while its in the air.
Just have to hook up the cooling system and the wiring, then its just miscellaneous things like throttle cable and shift linkage etc.
No it doesn't. If you can put the wheels and lower the car and let it settle. If you feel ok with it then go for it. But at least to me the cradle bottom is the limit of how low should items hang down. My other side muffler goes lower on one corner but only about one inch.
lol Y'all making me go insane waiting till I can put my V8 in. But I love it cause i learn a lot 
I couldnt tell you anything about waht to look for in a N*. Good luck with that though.
