carswell.... correct, that is actually a monte carlo z34 harness but it should be the same for all the w-body cars with the 3.4 DOHC from 94-95.

Josh, I must have mis-heard you when we were talking about hooking up the PRND switch, that is what darth said should be done. We only have the one clutch switch by the way, it is the same one that the CC uses. It seems like that should work. The only thing that im concerned about with making it think that its in neutral would be a lower rev limiter. I dont know if there is actually a lower rev limiter in neutral, but with some cars there is. Oh well, time will tell, and maybe the rev limiter in neutral could be adjusted with a chip re-burn anyhow! So when you gonna hook up that system on my car??

EDIT: woot! i own page two!

[This message has been edited by fieromadman (edited 12-27-2005).]

it will only think it's in neutral when the clutch is in. it will see drive with the clutch pedal out. i suppose you could just wire it for neutral and see what happens. if your engine braking in what the ecm thinks is neutral already i doubt it'll compensate fast enough. that's why i was thinking drive with the clutch out and neutral with the clutch in. also i need to do the ALDL so there will be one more post. it's easy though.

[This message has been edited by joshua riedl (edited 12-27-2005).]

ALDL if you have the dohc connector you'll be set. just mount it in the center console and run the wire. if you have to re-pin the fiero connector you'll need to remove the fiero wires, then if you are looking at it with the curved corners at the bottom. the bottom right goes to C5 on the ecm. the top right goes to a ground. there are a couple screws under the center console you can use for this.

Just a bump.

Did you get this harness finished? I read through this and tried to make sense of it all. Looks like it was written in Japanese.

Do you have a quote on doing a plug and play 94-95 harness Joshua?

Thanks!

it probably doesn't make sence because you don't have a harness or if you do have a harness you haven't removed your fiero harness and begun to strip everything down. once you get started it is really easy to follow. their are a couple problems with a mail order harnesses. the first is mistakes. i'm only human and mistakes happen to anyone. it's probably common knowledge that you and i have exchanged words a couple times here which makes the mistakes thing even worse. it's a buisness transaction and i would treat it as such but i don't have to be psychic to know that there is a good chance something bad would come out of the transaction. the second is i dont really believe in a plug and play harness. some things just aren't that easy. the clutch switch would have to be run by the owner since there is no wiring for it, and in Dave's harness he is going to have to change the vss plug since i don't have a fiero one to use. the charging and starting system is not really part of the harness but if anyone can't figure that out you should rethink an engine swap. also the clutch switch/relay is untested. i do believe it is correct but i take no responsibility because i don't run this setup. if this is acceptable to you, $400 will get you a completed harness finished to the best of my ability with the clutch switch relays and wire loom. with that being said it is still my opinion that everyone should do their own. i know it sucks, $400 makes it suck less for me, but it is a good learning experience.

quote Originally posted by joshua riedl: it probably doesn't make sence because you don't have a harness or if you do have a harness you haven't removed your fiero harness and begun to strip everything down. once you get started it is really easy to follow. their are a couple problems with a mail order harnesses. the first is mistakes. i'm only human and mistakes happen to anyone. it's probably common knowledge that you and i have exchanged words a couple times here which makes the mistakes thing even worse. it's a buisness transaction and i would treat it as such but i don't have to be psychic to know that there is a good chance something bad would come out of the transaction. the second is i dont really believe in a plug and play harness. some things just aren't that easy. the clutch switch would have to be run by the owner since there is no wiring for it, and in Dave's harness he is going to have to change the vss plug since i don't have a fiero one to use. the charging and starting system is not really part of the harness but if anyone can't figure that out you should rethink an engine swap. also the clutch switch/relay is untested. i do believe it is correct but i take no responsibility because i don't run this setup. if this is acceptable to you, $400 will get you a completed harness finished to the best of my ability with the clutch switch relays and wire loom. with that being said it is still my opinion that everyone should do their own. i know it sucks, $400 makes it suck less for me, but it is a good learning experience.

Yah I havn't messed with the wiring at all yet.

I understand what you're saying completely.

As I said, I'm going to attempt it myself, but when it doesn't start (When, not if...), I may have to resort to having you fix the harness. I'm keeping this thread handy for when I get around to this project, and I'm sure I'll need some help. Please post as soon as you know if the clutch switch/relay works or not!

fixing a hacked harness costs extra unless you can supply a new harness to start over with. if you really think it's going to be that bad just pay me to do it. if my offer was too expensive maybe we can work out a trade with some parts. if that is unacceptable, use Erik. i have absolutely no desire to troubleshoot something somebody else messed up and then attempt to fix it and hope it works all through the mail.

quote Originally posted by joshua riedl: fixing a hacked harness costs extra unless you can supply a new harness to start over with. if you really think it's going to be that bad just pay me to do it. if my offer was too expensive maybe we can work out a trade with some parts. if that is unacceptable, use Erik. i have absolutely no desire to troubleshoot something somebody else messed up and then attempt to fix it and hope it works all through the mail.

Hahaha good point. I'd like to do it myself, I think I can. I'll f*ck it up a few times, and it surely won't start, but I'm sure I can figure it out eventually. And if I get stuck, there are always the forums.

well then, i feel pretty dumb!! i have both harnesses out and stripped, and i still dont get what the hell is going on! or even if i have everything i need. i preitned off this entire thread, the C203 and C500 info. from fieroaddiction and the 3.4L wiring info on the previous page!

prollt woulda helped if i pulled the harnesses myself, but i bought them both from the mall. which is C203 and C500? i have some pics if you'all could explain whats what. i think i may be over my head here. i do think i can do it once i start to understand the terms and what connectors are what.

also the cpnnectors are suppose to be coded? i cant find anything but ABC etc. and PED. i must be missing something. (as in my head, not parts.)

any help/suggestions?

the c500 is a black, two part plug near the battery. the c203 is the plug near the fiero ecm in the center console. the C500 gets pretty dirty so you just need to clean it. the letters and numbers are there. on the c203 i think only one side is labeled and you have to make an educated guess for the other pins.

also what are these? i know there for the ECM, but what are they? manual chips? what?

they have the fallowing numbers on them (the two right ones are two different stickers on the same chip..left one in pics)

4055 ------- 4152 ------ delco--delco
BHZW ------- BKLL ----- 8304--AXSJ
6869 ------- 1692 ------ 8304---2368

[This message has been edited by SLOWnSTEADY (edited 01-24-2006).]

those are the ecm plugs. the first page has the pin-outs. at the top of each page it has the color of the plug. use the colors and the numbers to locate the correct wire. then check the wire color to make sure it matches what the pin-out page says. there is no maual chip for the 94-95 ecm.
maybe you should think about moving to the kitchen. that carpet looks pretty nice.

[This message has been edited by joshua riedl (edited 01-24-2006).]

NAH. thats just my "recreation" room has my pool table, stereo and TV, through the smaller door (not sure if its pictured) is my gym.

but for the record, i had a huge blanket ;aid out that i was actually doing the work on, i just took it away for the pics.

quote Originally posted by SLOWnSTEADY: NAH. thats just my "recreation" room has my pool table, stereo and TV, through the smaller door (not sure if its pictured) is my gym. but for the record, i had a huge blanket ;aid out that i was actually doing the work on, i just took it away for the pics.

I hope you did some research about this before deciding on using the 94-5 MAF system. Specifically I hope you're aware that this set up will have a stalling issue apon deceleration if you don't add a clutch switch or you'll have to rev it when you push in the clutch. I'm just mentioning that because of your comment about the chips. Most people opt for the 91-3 set up because of the stalling issue. I chose to go with the 94-5 set up but I knew what to expect after being around Fieromadmans car for so long.
There is no manual chip for 94 and up as Josh already mentioned. Darth Fiero can burn you a custom chip that will take out all the auto codes and other codes as well. He can also change the rev limiter which is a real good idea especially if you do the cam timing.

I don't mean any insult by this post, I just wanted to make sure you knew what you were getting into before you got to far is all.

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As a "remedy" for the stalling issue, I'll be hiking up the idle RPM to 1200, but there are a few reasons for my doing this (Mainly the ITBs).

I can deal with it personally though, my Z34 used to have phantom stalling from the injectors and it didn't really bother me.

The stalling is very predictable too aaron, you will know when it is going to do it and when it isnt after you drive the car for a while. And of course to stop it from stalling all you have to do is blip the thorottle. At least mine has never just randomly died at a light or anything.

slow and steady.. did you still want the HQ pics of the ECM pins for the 94-95? I forgot about doing that for you untill i read this again.

It is very predictable. It only happens at deceleration and never dies if you blip the throttle as you slow down. It doesn't die at all when you push in the clutch while accerating even if you don't blip the throttle.
I would doubt hiking up the idle will stop it either. Darth tried that on Jeffs car and it didn't fix it plus it took away the nice little "rumpity rump" that his car makes with the cam timing. Not sure how high he went though with the idle. Can't really remember as it's been a long year. Personally I am used to driving his car so it's not going to bother me in my own car at all. I get in my 2.8 and blip the throttle just from habit at this point. lol
A clutch switch should work to cure it if anyone's really that bothered by it.

OK startin to get the picture... time for a bump for some answers

[This message has been edited by SLOWnSTEADY (edited 02-25-2006).]

OK B4 i start cuttin i need to know what the RS unit and bulkhead im suppose to discard look like.

ive got the C203 and C500 figured out, jus dont want to cut somethin i shouldnt

The RS unit on the 3.4 dohc harness has fuses and relays built into it. Its a huge plastic box. The bulkhead connector is the connector that goes through the firewall. It is black I believe with a bolt in the middle rectanuglar in shape and probalbly like 2 inches long with lots of pins. It is on the end of the harness as that part of the harness ends and the cabin part begins.

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--180* t-stat, (cam degrees) 1.5 degree intake advance and 5 degree exhaust retard, ported lower intake, FFP pulley, A/C Idler, flowmaster exhaust, EGR delete, K&N filter, chip-- --Check out the Fiero Kingdom!--

these?

quote Originally posted by SLOWnSTEADY: these?

the box in the center is your RS electrical center the one to the right is your main bulkhead plug in to the wiring inside the car. Both will be eliminated and interfaced to the Fiero engine harness

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Soon to be a Northstar

quote Originally posted by joshua riedl: CUT OFF THE RS ELECTRICAL CENTER AND THE BULKHEAD CONNECTOR FROM THE DONOR CAR. completely get rid of them. then carefully unloom and untape the harness using zip-ties to keep everything organized. this will leave several wires loose between the two connectors. pull them out through the zipties and discard them. you can also remove the solenoid wire and a couple charge wires to clean up the harness some more. these will be installed last when you put the engine back in the car so yu don't need the mess now. remember to keep the harness organized with the zipties. at this point everything should still be clean and organized.

just a question why is it that I have to cut the RS ELECTRICAL CENTER is this the best way or is there a way that i can leave it where it is and use the RS from the engine so that all the relays are already in place
And the RS from the fiero under the steering for all the other things of the car

daniel

You can wire it any way you want but you only need 2 relays. One for the fuel pump and A/C. The RS center is pretty big to keep around for just those.