Well, I got tired of dealing with the wind whistle and water drips, so I decided to do a cheap and easy repair of my sunroof gasket and mounting area.

While replacement sunroof gaskets are available new, I do not have the funds to do the replacement, like I would like. So, the following photo guide is to show that a good quality repair can resolve many of the leak issues with the factory Sunroof.

Please disregard my paint on the roof, as the roof is from a donor vehicle that sat in the sun for years. Also, disregard any views of my interior, as it is a work in progress.

The first several shots show a sunroof gasket in very rough shape, and in dire need of a shotgun to put it out of it's misery.





Now, normally, you could leave the gasket in place, clean it thoroughly with Simple Green and water, and then give it a thorough rubdown with Castor Oil (Available at your local pharmacy for about 2 buck a bottle).
Leave the Castor Oil in place for 1-2 hours, and then wipe it down and clean the gasket again with Simple Green and water.
Remember, do NOT lick your fingers during the Castor Oil process (Don't ask)


But, for those of us that are a bit more adventurous...


The following is a result of the removal of the gasket.



More to come.

[This message has been edited by Synthesis (edited 09-30-2006).]

To continue:


After using a razor knife, and a flat head screwdriver, I cleaned up a lot of the old silicone and sealant that was in the corners and under the gasket, and then opened up the 4 holes in the corners to allow for drainage down across the frame. (This was a factory Tech Service Bulletin to be performed by dealer service centers)


The next step, after cleaning all of that up, was to stuff the gasket into a bucket, and give it a thorough coating of Castor Oil (See pic in previous post).


I let it sit there for a good 90 minutes, and kept turning it to keep it well coated. The old rubber absorbs castor oil like a sponge, and will actually swell back up as the Castor Oil re-moisturizes the rubber. It is important to remember to wipe the gasket down very well to remove the excess oil before re-assembly, as the gasket will actually leak oil as you reinstall it.
The way the gasket sits in the channel is shown in the following photos.



My roof section leaves a lot to be desired in the finish, and the rails that the gasket sits in, but that is a project reserved for later this winter.
The gasket slides back in easily, and can best be fitted by putting one edge of the gasket into the strip, and then, on the opposite edge, pushing down, and towards the first edge. This will slide the gasket right back into place.


I took the car to the car wash, and the leaks had all stopped.


If you enjoyed my contribution, please feel free to rate me.

[This message has been edited by Synthesis (edited 09-30-2006).]

Dang it, Synthesis, I had already +'ed you. Thanks for posting this, though. It'll come in handy.

Nice job Chris, I heard the same thing afew years ago using "Bleech White" whitewall cleaner and Vasoline instead.

I did notice the drain holes you have are on the outside of the corner farthest away from the sunroof hole which leads me to believe the roof panel you have was originally on a 84.

My 84 didn't have the drain holes and leaked like a waterfall into the car during a heavy rain, the fix was to drill the drain holes and from what I found on Pennock's and talking to other owners and checking sunroofs on cars from 85 to 88 the holes are drilled on the inside of the corner closest to the sunroof hole.

Great article and pics just had to add my two cents.

Steve

Actually Steve, the roof panel came off of a 1985 GT, and the holes are the ones I drilled into it according to the TSB.
I can add them on the inside as well if I need to, which would not hurt to be honest. I have not added any extra sealant to the gasket, and my leaks seem to have dissappeared.

The Bleech White is great for cleaning rubber gaskets and the like, so that would work. The gasket here is so soft and pliable now, it feels similar to a new one.

Great write-up with pics! Maybe Cliff can take threads like this and sticky them in a -how to- section for easy look up for future reference. Plus for you!

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Great write up.

I have used the Castor oil solution as well with great success and I recommend it for all your weather seals that have dried out. One interesting thing I found out at the pharmacy was that they are hesitant to sell Castor oil. Apparently it can be used to induce labor!!! See Here

Nolan

Very good write up. We always used silcone based products to ballon up the seals, I will try the castor oil .....A + for you.....

I need a damn Fiero

Nice write-up... and to think, all this time I was only using Castor oil on my squeaky furniture wheels! Looks like it works just "swell" for this purpose, too. + to you .

Good Job= plus for you
Don

Heh, I painted my roof today. Got tired of the look, and decided to paint it before installing new Windsheild Weatherstrip.

quote Originally posted by Synthesis: Heh, I painted my roof today. Got tired of the look, and decided to paint it before installing new Windsheild Weatherstrip.

That sentence is as they say, "worthless without pics".

Man you are thrashing on that thing though.

Great write up! A + for you.

88Irronduke

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Pilots with out maintainers are just pedestrians with a cool jacket and sunglasses.
I.Y.A.M.Y.A.S.

quote Originally posted by StuGood: Nice write-up... and to think, all this time I was only using Castor oil on my squeaky furniture wheels! Looks like it works just "swell" for this purpose, too. + to you .

- to you for being so "punny"