I'm leaving the Texans Game today in stop and go traffic in my 88 GT and all of the sudden my left foot is on the floor and I have no clutch. While I'm considering my options as to whether or not my AAA is up to date, bumming a ride to get my trailer, or driving clutchless for 15 miles to get home, I can't believe how much these Fiero hydraulic clutches suck A$$.

I decided to drive the 15 or so miles clutchless, and luckily I'm pretty good at shifting with no clutch, but it get's tricky in stop and go when you have to shut the engine off every time you get to a stop and then start the car in first gear. So I finally get it home back in the garage with no obvious signs of leakage.

But I would bet the rent the master has blown a seal. Does anyone have the GM part number for the 2nd design master cylinder? Those cheap aftermarket ones are not worth the trouble.

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88 GT T-Top, 88 Fastback Chop-top (Archie #14), 1984 Indy, and 88 Chop Top T-top
Firebird Interior Installation Website

I'll probably need one myself.
My '84 Fiasco enjoys nothing more than creating new problems for me to find while it sits out back awaiting repairs.
A month or two back I went out and found the clutch pedal to be frozen, even though the clutch can be manually moved.

I would at least check for fluid leaking inside the slave cylinder boot before I bet the rent.

Last year, I had a slave cylinder fail about 50 miles from home. Fortunately, all it took to restore decent operation was a "quickie" gravity bleed (crack open the bleeder and let some fluid run out, pull back the clutch arm, then tighten bleeder). I replaced the slave with one from the Fiero Store. So far so good.

Sorry, but I can't help with the GM part numbers for the '88.

quote Originally posted by Mark: I would at least check for fluid leaking inside the slave cylinder boot before I bet the rent.

Thanks for the tip, I will check them both for leakage, but I have had more masters fail than slaves.

quote Originally posted by jscott1: Does anyone have the GM part number for the 2nd design master cylinder?

Anyone??? I've searched the archives and come up empty.

ACDELCO Part # 385096 --- 5 SPD., FROM 5/86 {#88990074}
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1249219,parttype,1996

quote Originally posted by 3800superfast: ACDELCO Part # 385096 --- 5 SPD., FROM 5/86 {#88990074} http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1249219,parttype,1996

Thanks!

The Fiero store are not the GM correct?? Without even checking I'm pretty sure my master has bit the dust, so I'm placing my order from Rockauto right now.

Jonathon,

I really think the first generation master is much superior. My experience with the 2nd generation master on my 88 GT is that I could not bleed it except with a vacuum pump. The 1st generation master bleeds with the clutch pedal in about 4 strokes. I'm still running the original master (not rebuilt) in my '84 and I'm on the third engine in that car.

If I was installing a new master I'd go with the first generation. The tubing can be carefully rebent to make it fit.

-Scott

quote Originally posted by 3800superfast: dealer discontued---87-88 ACDELCO Part # 385096 == 10079730 gm where to find: the fiero store -- Part # 54203 http://www.secureleadercom.com/fsstore/default.asp?bodystyle=1&topdeptnumber=77&searchBit=3&dept=89

If you don't need to keep it stock looking (I'm guessing you don't) you may want to look into two wilwood options from Summit Racing, or elsewhere. If only they made a good pusher slave...

Similar to old stock design

Adjustable resevoir

I don't think they are direct bolt in, but I'd rather have an aluminum master I can easily buy rebuild kits for.

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1988 Fiero GT
Cleveland Fiero Club

I replaced my slave and line this year. I got the Wagner slave replacement. Way better than the GM stock item. The Wagner is cast iron everything. It fits totally stock.

What I did wrong though, was to screw up the connector at the slave. I then found out that clutch line was installed before the brake lines and steering assembly, so replacing it with the stock item is a PITA. Also, the threaded fittings for the clutch are obsolete. Even GM doesn' t have them.

I ended up getting a hose shop to custom fabricate a braided line, and got ss adapters to fit the original Fiero threads but marry up to current threads. The new braided line and adapters cost about $120 Cdn but were well worth the effort. They look better and I don't have any concern about line failures.

Arn

if you want i got a couple spare mater cyl's that i can part with, i can do $40 shipped OBO. pm me if anyone needs one. they worked perfect when i took them out of the cars, no signs of any leaks.

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1986 Silver 5 speed Fiero 3.4 DOHC
Bored .30, Fully balanced and blueprinted
13* retard exhaust cam, FFP UDP, much more.
13.93@101mph as it is on the street

355/380hp sbc, 4 bolt main
spec stage 3, and many other extras.
87 GT 5-speed Getrag, power everything.

JScott.....All I can say is be thankful you know how to drive a stick without the chutch. That has saved me on a few occassions and something everyone with a standard should know just in case. Good luck finding a good one and let us know where to get it. Everyones is bound to go out at some point on these older cars.

Steve

Now I'm scratching my head...Rock Auto called to cancel my order...the 88 AC Delco is discontinued.

Do I

a) go with the Wagner, or Raybestos?

b) First design master and carefully rebend the tube?

c) Wilwood design from Summit? What is required to make this fit???

d) Get a used AC Delco from flame4me?

e) Continue to drive clutchless forever??

Keeping it stock is not on my list, so I'm open to suggestions. I just want it to work for more than a year, or leave me stranded in the middle of nowhere.

Thanks.

Jonathan

quote Originally posted by jscott1: Now I'm scratching my head...Rock Auto called to cancel my order...the 88 AC Delco is discontinued. Do I a) go with the Wagner, or Raybestos? b) First design master and carefully rebend the tube? c) Wilwood design from Summit? What is required to make this fit??? d) Get a used AC Delco from flame4me? e) Continue to drive clutchless forever?? Keeping it stock is not on my list, so I'm open to suggestions. I just want it to work for more than a year, or leave me stranded in the middle of nowhere. Thanks. Jonathan

Although I haven't done it myself, next time mine goes I am going to go with one of the two wilwood solutions. They are aluminum (no significant corrosion), have readily availible rebuild kits, are availible in different bore sizes, and I assume that wilwood would only put their name on something that is pretty reliable. However, modifications necessary not only include re-bending / fabrication to get the hoses to line up correctly, but also modification to the mounting. The Fiero master cylinder mounts with holes ofset from vertical. I mean the holes are not vertical, they are at about a 45 degree angle when looking at the car from the front. The wilwood masters should be mounted with vertical studs. This will either require removal of the studs and drilling new holes for bolts, or using the wilwood option with the remote reservoir so it can be level i.e. mounting the cylinder tilted to the side, but the reservoir remotely and level.

quote Originally posted by jscott1: Now I'm scratching my head...Rock Auto called to cancel my order...the 88 AC Delco is discontinued. Do I a) go with the Wagner, or Raybestos?

IIRC they are both the same piece, or at least the same design.

quote c) Wilwood design from Summit? What is required to make this fit???

Line modification (possible need for putting a new fitting on the end of the line) and maknig a mounting adapter or slotting the holes so it fits.
Other advantages of the Wilwood design: available in various bore sizes to accomodate different clutch release arm setups (like if you have a FWD Getrag), rebuild parts are inexpensive and available, its trick.

or make a plate up of 1/4" steel with studs and holes corresponding to the correct locations.
I like that universal remote one tho, the larger bore shorter stroke looks like a winner!!

quote Originally posted by Mark: I would at least check for fluid leaking inside the slave cylinder boot before I bet the rent.

After further review...I need to move in with Mark because I lost the rent money. Master is fine and there is fluid in the slave cylinder.

So my custom master cylinder project will wait for another day while I track down a slave cylinder now.

I'm really not wanting another Fiero store POS, any suggestions???

quote Originally posted by jscott1: I'm really not wanting another Fiero store POS, any suggestions???

That's why I wish I could find an aftermarket "pusher" slave. I think the only one I found was at a speed shop for custom race cars. If I can dig up a link, I'll post it today.

Edit: It was at the first place I looked: www.speedwaymotors.com
Again, I haven't done this and it looks like the same type as we already have. It doesn't say, but it may be aluminum (race shops like lightweight, you know) so that might help the corrosion problem. When I have called them, they have been extremely helpful. It may be worth a shot.

[This message has been edited by TG oreiF 8891 (edited 10-03-2006).]

You must have a Pep Boys or Autozone around. Just ask them for the replacement slave for your Fiero and they will likely come up with a good aftermarket match. I still say the cast unit from Wagner is really good.

Arn

Another vote for the cast iron slave here. Had one on for 4 years now. All is good.

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1986 SE 350 V8