I will try to tackle the problems 1 at a time. I am working with very little funds left so I will be trying to obtain parts needed (not very many) for free or really cheap.
First up... I need a throttle cable/cruise cable bracket.
Here is why...Bracket that was made does not work properly and will not allow the cruise cable to connect. See pic.

Have you considered modifying the current bracket? Judging from the pic you could move that bracket, toward the supercharger, drill two new screw/bolt holes and gain enough room to connect your cable. The bracket may catch a little bit on the very right where it crosses over the piece of the TB that sticks out, underneath the right bolt, so you may need to file a little metal off the bottom right of the bracket for clearance. Also you would probably want to cut off the extra part of the metal that will stick out by the supercharger.

If you don't have the tools, I could fix it for you for free if you wanted to mail just the bracket out. Would only take a couple of minutes to modify and fill the old holes with jbweld.

[This message has been edited by InTheLead (edited 11-14-2006).]

Yes you might be better off getting another bracket. It looks like you can use the same bolt and nut that JR has there. Although you could cut down the bracket you have to locate the cable mounting points at the same dimension as the GTP one. I can get the dimension for you tommorow. Youll have to remove the TB or just the linkage at the throttle plate so you can drill the rivet out and cut the slit for the cable. You could send me the TB with the bracket that is on it and Ill mod it for you. There will be a gasket between the TB flange and the SC housing. Youll loose some coolant.


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" DRIVE IT LIKE YOU LOVE IT"

[This message has been edited by ohio86se (edited 11-14-2006).]

What cable are you using......

[This message has been edited by 3800superfast (edited 11-18-2006).]

Instead of modifing the linkage can I just shorten the throttle cable and attach it in the same location it is now after I modify the bracket to the correct dimensions?

I personally didnt have must luck in removing the end loop, shortening the cable and reattaching the loop. These things are pressed by a machine so they dont slip off. My setup made it easy to remove the TB if I had too. Others have had success with doing it others ways but this is just the way I did it. By the way the way I did is not totally my idea...Loyde web site shows the same setup.

quote Originally posted by JimmyS: Instead of modifing the linkage can I just shorten the throttle cable and attach it in the same location it is now after I modify the bracket to the correct dimensions?

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" DRIVE IT LIKE YOU LOVE IT"

Ok I took some measurements. I attached the cruise control cable and measured how far it needed to move over to be able to connect to the throttle linkage. It measured 1 1/2 inches. I marked on the bracket where the new mounting holes need to be to move the bracket over a inch and a half and then marked where I need to cut the bracket. I was able to drill the holes here at home but need to make the cuts at work. I will take it to work with me tomorrow morning and make the cuts and then attach it back when I get home. Here are a couple pics of what I did so far.

[This message has been edited by JimmyS (edited 11-15-2006).]

quote Originally posted by JimmyS: Next problem would be where the shifter cable attaches to the trans. Here is a pic of what it looks like now. West Coast Fiero sells a bracket to fix this situation but I don't have the $120.00 they want for it. Notice how the plastic piece at the end of the cable has started to melt cause it is too close to the exhaust. Any suggestions?

You might be able to fabricate a thin heat shield for this area and cover in with some high heat material to protect the cable clamp. Ill bet the melting of that piece happened when JR heated up the arm on the trans with the shift cable attached. Does this piece hit the exhaust now?
Or what you could do is take the arm off, take off the knob that the shift cable end snaps unto. Put in a bolt of the same size as the hole in the cable end, have the head tack welded on the bottom of the lever arm. Get a locking type nut and an over size washer on top to act as a heat deflecter for the exhaust. This would provide two thinks for you. 1) the cable end wont come off and 2) the washer would provide heat protection from the exhaust.
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" DRIVE IT LIKE YOU LOVE IT"

[This message has been edited by ohio86se (edited 11-16-2006).]

I can pretty much garrentee it sits on the exhaust when its in D. I can also pretty much garrentee it wont go into anything under 3.

Ok I got the throttle bracket modified and painted but I made a slight error. I grabbed a can of black engine paint that I had laying around and painted the bracket. After painting it I was reading the back of the can and it said "cures completely in 5 days"! So I won't be mounting it till tuesday. LOL


Also the 3.5 pulley I orderd came in yesterday.


I had some Fiero stickers so I thought I would see what one would look like on the pulley. What do ya think?

[This message has been edited by JimmyS (edited 11-17-2006).]

Your pistons with thank you for that pulley change.

OK on to the rest of the wiring... There is a (dark green wire) and a (brown wire w/ a white stripe) that JR labeled both of them to go to the C2 of the C500 connector for the temp gauge. Is that Correct? Do both of those wires go to the same place?

Edit to add...there are currently no wires connected to the C500 connector at this time.

[This message has been edited by JimmyS (edited 11-22-2006).]

I think JR is the onlyone that can offer help on this now. It is near impossible for somone to guess what crazy ideas he had when doing this, as eveything I have noticed so far just makes no sence.

dude, fix the shifter.. why did you throw money into a pulley that gains you nothing if you cant shift the car? never mind, I dont want an answer

quote Originally posted by Chicken McNizzle: dude, fix the shifter.. why did you throw money into a pulley that gains you nothing if you cant shift the car? never mind, I dont want an answer

The car shifts just fine, whats the point in dumping money into a shifter when you cant run the motor.

quote Originally posted by Chicken McNizzle: dude, fix the shifter.. why did you throw money into a pulley that gains you nothing if you cant shift the car? never mind, I dont want an answer

Too bad. I'm gonna answer anyway. I have ordered a new piece for the shifter cable to attach too since the current one was heated and bent. The Pontiac dealer ordered the wrong one the first time so now I am waiting on the 2nd one to come in. On reccomendation by a couple different people I replaced the pulley. It had a 3.3 and I changed it to a 3.5. The car does shift and drive but my current problem is that it now won't start. I checked for spark and there is spark. I checked the fuel pump and it is working. I checked all fuses and they are OK. JR had pulled the fuse on my alarm system and did not put it back in when the car was delivered back to me. I put the fuse back in and re-attached the speaker for the alarm. I tested the alarm by arming it and opening the dooor and it went off so I dissarmed it and went to work on other things. The alarm has a feature that will not allow the ignition to work if the alarm is armed. I am worndering if with all the wiring work that has been changed if the alarm is conflicting with something and not alowing the motor to fire. It cranks but won't fire. I pulled the fuse from the alarm and tried again but still nothing. I am going to dissconnect the battery from the car and maybe that will dissarm the alarm and try again.

A shot in the dark here -- What engine and pcm/harness did you choose, did the donor have the theft sytem --as in shut off the starter & fuel injectors. Who programed the pcm for you--or is it a dhp one.. Did you test all the coil packs/icu. While cranking shoot some sensor safe fluid in the t.b. and see what happens.

[This message has been edited by 3800superfast (edited 11-27-2006).]

quote Originally posted by 3800superfast: A shot in the dark here --you talking about JR as in JR kitcarman ? What engine and pcm/harness did you choose, did the donor have the theft sytem --as in shut off the starter & fuel injectors. Did Jr program the pcm for you--or is it a dhp one.. Did you test all the coil packs/icu. While cranking shoot some sensor safe fluid in the t.b. and see what happens.

PM sent

Ok lets start off with the wires (inside the car). Here is what I have...

C203 Connector
Pin A - No wire at all
Pin B - Orange wire with black stripe. Connected to orange wire pin #16 of the ALDL
Pin C - No wire at all
Pin D - Blue wire. Connected to green wire w/ white stripe on PED D5 Pin #22 on the ECM
Pin E - Tan wire. NOT CONNECTED.
Pin F - Red wire w/ black stripe. NOT CONNECTED.
Pin G - Yellow wire. NOT CONNECTED.
Pin H - Brown wire. NOT CONNECTED.
Pin J - Pink wire w/ white stripe. NOT CONNECTED.
Pin K - Red wire. Connected to fuse box in engine bay.
Pin L - Light tan wire w/ white stripe. Connected to fuse box in engine bay.
Pin M - Black wire w/ thin white stripe. Connected to ground.
Pin N - Black wire w/ thick white stripe. NOT CONNECTED.
Pin P - Purple wire. Connected to fuse box in engine bay.
Pin R - Purple wire w/ white stripe. NOT CONNECTED.

ALDL
Pin 2 (purple wire) connected to pin 59 of D2 on PCM.
Pin 4 (black wire) & Pin 5 (black w/ white stripe) connected to ground.
Pin 9 (tan wire) connected to pin 15 of D2 on PCM.
Pin 16 (orange wire) connected to Pin B of C203 connector.

Wires labeled but not connected.
Light tan wire coming from fuse box in engine bay labeled "E" C203. NOT CONNECTED.
Blue wire from pin 21 of D2 on ECM labeled Shift switch & to ground. NOT CONNECTED.
Green wire coming from engine harness labeled 4K VSS. NOT CONNECTED.
White wire coming from engine harness labeled Cruise indicator light. NOT CONNECTED.
Dark green wire coming from engine harness labeled Cruise Disengage. NOT CONNECTED.

Thats it for all the wires inside the car. Next post will contain everything from inside the engine bay.

PS. The fuel pump is working, there is spark and I tried spraying some starter fluid into the throttle body but the car still will not start.

heres a link to the Fiero wiring at the c203 and c500

http://fp.enter.net/~rockcrawl/c203c500.html

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" DRIVE IT LIKE YOU LOVE IT"

OK I am so close now I can taste it. All the engine compartment wiring is done. I am waiting on a new oil pressure sending unit, speedo conversion thingy, throttle/cruise bracket and a new metal piece that the end of the shifter cable attaches to and then I can finish. JR said if I buy him a tank of gas he will come down and finish the programming when I am ready. Sounds like a deal to me.

There is 1 other problem. The car will start but you have to give it some throttle to get it to start. Soon as you let off the throttle it dies. After the car warms up a little I can get it to idle on its own at around 300-350 rpms for a min. then it dies out again. I can then get it to start without the throttle but it idles real slow and dies out after a min. Any suggestions?

quote Originally posted by JimmyS: OK I am so close now I can taste it. All the engine compartment wiring is done. I am waiting on a new oil pressure sending unit, speedo conversion thingy, throttle/cruise bracket and a new metal piece that the end of the shifter cable attaches to and then I can finish. JR said if I buy him a tank of gas he will come down and finish the programming when I am ready. Sounds like a deal to me. There is 1 other problem. The car will start but you have to give it some throttle to get it to start. Soon as you let off the throttle it dies. After the car warms up a little I can get it to idle on its own at around 300-350 rpms for a min. then it dies out again. I can then get it to start without the throttle but it idles real slow and dies out after a min. Any suggestions?

Sounds like the IAC is not working. Try unplugging it and see if it makes a difference. Check for vacuum leaks.

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" DRIVE IT LIKE YOU LOVE IT"

quote Originally posted by JimmyS: Ok lets start off with the wires (inside the car). Here is what I have... C203 Connector Pin A - No wire at all Pin B - Orange wire with black stripe. Connected to orange wire pin #16 of the ALDL <----------- This is also the wiring for the fuel pump Pin C - No wire at all <------ SES light, It's kinda funny he left this unpluged [/red] Pin D - Blue wire. Connected to green wire w/ white stripe on PED D5 Pin #22 on the ECM [color=Red] ,<---- pos feed for AC Pin E - Tan wire. NOT CONNECTED. <------- Connects to the oil sensor, This is way your oil guage is not working !!! Pin F - Red wire w/ black stripe. NOT CONNECTED. <---- pos feed for EMC, He probally wired this up to another 12v reference, This would cause your car to not start either, If not connected. Pin G - Yellow wire. NOT CONNECTED. <------ Speedo wire, Speedo will not work. Pin H - Brown wire. NOT CONNECTED. <------ Vss feed for EMC, may cause your car to shift funny if not connected Pin J - Pink wire w/ white stripe. NOT CONNECTED. <---- 12v pos feed for injector, Pin K - Red wire. Connected to fuse box in engine bay. < 12v pos feed for injector, He used this to sorce everything off the fusebox. Pin L - Light tan wire w/ white stripe. Connected to fuse box in engine bay. <---- Pos side for fuel pump relay, He probally sorced it off the fuse box. Pin M - Black wire w/ thin white stripe. Connected to ground. < --- ground Pin N - Black wire w/ thick white stripe. NOT CONNECTED. <---- pos feed for Ac compressor control relay Pin P - Purple wire. Connected to fuse box in engine bay.<----- TCC brake, sorced off of the fuel box again, WHY IN THE HECK IS HE USING THE GTP FUSEBOX, HE's DOING THIS THE HARD WAY !!! Pin R - Purple wire w/ white stripe. NOT CONNECTED. Vss LOW, This might cause your car to shift funny and speedo won't work. ALDL Pin 2 (purple wire) connected to pin 59 of D2 on PCM. Pin 4 (black wire) & Pin 5 (black w/ white stripe) connected to ground. Pin 9 (tan wire) connected to pin 15 of D2 on PCM. Pin 16 (orange wire) connected to Pin B of C203 connector. Wires labeled but not connected. Light tan wire coming from fuse box in engine bay labeled "E" C203. NOT CONNECTED. Blue wire from pin 21 of D2 on ECM labeled Shift switch & to ground. NOT CONNECTED. Green wire coming from engine harness labeled 4K VSS. NOT CONNECTED. White wire coming from engine harness labeled Cruise indicator light. NOT CONNECTED. Dark green wire coming from engine harness labeled Cruise Disengage. NOT CONNECTED. Thats it for all the wires inside the car. Next post will contain everything from inside the engine bay. PS. The fuel pump is working, there is spark and I tried spraying some starter fluid into the throttle body but the car still will not start.

More to come, But from the sounds of it, Your injectors are not firing, If the PCM has no power or the fuse is blown, It will not fire the injectors, Causing a NO start condition. If the anti theft is not disabled in a pcm program, It will shutdown the injectors causing a start then stall condition.

[This message has been edited by 86fieroEarl (edited 11-26-2006).]

quote Originally posted by ohio86se: Sounds like the IAC is not working. Try unplugging it and see if it makes a difference. Check for vacuum leaks.

I know I am gonna sound like a idiot for asking but where is the IAC located?

quote Originally posted by JimmyS: I know I am gonna sound like a idiot for asking but where is the IAC located?

Its located on the side of the TB.

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" DRIVE IT LIKE YOU LOVE IT"

Having the oppisite problem with my project at the moment. It needs throttle to start, then it idles at 1700rpms. Can not find anything to do with a vac leak, and tried 3 different iac valves.

quote Originally posted by darkhorizon: Having the oppisite problem with my project at the moment. It needs throttle to start, then it idles at 1700rpms. Can not find anything to do with a vac leak, and tried 3 different iac valves.

Check your mat/maf , fuel pressure at the rail, engine off, then on, check coolant temp sensor and connections to it..

OK I unplugged the IAC sensor and nothing changed. I bought a code scanner today and when I get home I will run the codes and post the results.

Can you test the IAC to see if it is operating correctly if at all? ( voltage in or out)??
I'd like to see Jim be able to drive this car soon.
Thanks Gary

[This message has been edited by GKDINC (edited 11-27-2006).]

Ok I scanned for codes and it showed 4 codes.
P0102
P0506
P0650
P0506 pd

It also said this...
Mil On
Monitrs
5 Inc
Catlyst
Evap
02 Snsr
02 Htr
EGR
3 ready
Misfire
Fuel
Comp

Jimmy,
That would be your Throttle postion sensor.

quote Originally posted by daniel87fierogt: Jimmy, That would be your Throttle postion sensor.

Which 1 is the throttle position sensor? the 1 below or the 1 to the left? I was told there was no throttle position sensor that the computer handled that. This is a 99 series 2 SC from the Grand Prix GTP

It turned out to be a crossed wire that fouled up a few hours of my latest swap project. I didnt make the harness, but It was hard to spot right away because the IAC has the same colored wire as the #4 injector control. But swap #2 from camp darkhorizon runs good, ready for a solid test drive this weekend.

There ya go Jim ....now will I see you in Ohio in December?

quote Originally posted by JimmyS: I bought a new IAC, installed it, turned the key and it fired right up and idled at 750RPM's! Thanks all.

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" DRIVE IT LIKE YOU LOVE IT"