Solved!- A fix/workaround for the rattling door latch striker!
See pics below
If you are having problems with a rattling striker bolt go to Autozone and buy a HELP! striker bolt for a FORD #38421. I started sizing it up on my car. Everything looked right. I screwed it in and it immediately worked! The door now closes solid as a rock and no rattles over bumps.
This is a solid fix/workaround. At most you may want to turn the head down just a hair depending on the wear on your door latch assembly.
[This message has been edited by sjmaye (edited 10-19-2007).]
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02:19 PM
PFF
System Bot
Mar 12th, 2007
cliphord1 Member
Posts: 66 From: Lynchburg , va Registered: Sep 2003
Thanx for the tip !!! Just got hold of the bolt. HELP # 38421 / Doorman # 701916 Took of the plastic cylinder on the bolt, fits like a charm! Looks like I can drive with the windows down at last ! Creds to you !
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03:22 PM
fierobeel Member
Posts: 109 From: Burlington, Ontario, Canada Registered: Aug 2006
I was doing some searching on this subject because I have this problem too but another alternative is that a striker for a 86 S10 will work too. Just pick it up from the HELP section, same as the ford one. Now I need to go get this myself.
Now I can save wrapping electrical tape around it every week!
Wow...I thought I was the only one who did this! I do the same thing with the electrical tape....only every month. Funny thing is...my rattling started AFTER I replaced the hinge pins.
Wow...I thought I was the only one who did this! I do the same thing with the electrical tape....only every month. Funny thing is...my rattling started AFTER I replaced the hinge pins.
Kit / 86 GT
I tried EVERYTHING including electrical tape every other week. I used plastic pieces, tinfoil, duct tape, paper wrapped in elec tape, you name it I tried it. I can't wait to try this fix.
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10:18 AM
PFF
System Bot
Apr 7th, 2007
Rocky Top Member
Posts: 139 From: Greeneville, Tennessee Registered: Nov 2004
Take the plastic off the shaft of the bolt ? Why ? Does the plastic make it too big for the Fiero application ? I sort of figured the plastic was what eliminated the rattle. Similar to wrapping tape around the old striker bolt just better.
With the plastic still attached, the diameter is too big for the fiero latch. (I know this because I just tried it a little more that 24 hours ago.....) The "fix" is in the slightly larger in diameter, unworn metal pin itself. Although I didn't have access to a good replacement, my original pin showed a LOT of wear. It *might* have been possible to get good results from a newer Fiero specific pin. I can't imagine they're as easy (and cheap) to get as the Ford pins.
I have to say the timing of this thread was perfect. No more rattles.
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11:55 PM
Apr 8th, 2007
Frizlefrak Member
Posts: 2921 From: El Paso, Texas Registered: Aug 2003
Well, I went over to Pep Girls today and picked up the new striker bolt. Worked exactly as said, and yes, I did remember to remove the plastic sleeve. Door closes nice and snug now.
Thanks again for the tip!
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03:18 AM
Apr 9th, 2007
noodle Member
Posts: 260 From: Kentville, Nova Scotia Registered: Nov 2002
Does anybody know what the striker bolt is off, there isn't a autozone around here, I took a look at Canadian Tire but couldn't find it, I gave the guy working at parts counter the part number but he couldn't come up with anything that matched, I'm going to try NAPA tomorrow.
I did this a few months ago when you first posted this thread. It works great. Only thing was the door would get stuck for the first few days. The latch was sticking on the thicker diameter. But it wore down some of the metal and works perfectly now. OF course my door still sags when it open though. Damn hinges.
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12:13 PM
Oct 17th, 2007
sjmaye Member
Posts: 2468 From: Hendersonville, TN USA Registered: Jun 2003
I first posted this back in March. I have now fixed my third door and it is working great. I thought some photos would help with explain.
I read a post where someone thought the rubber of the latch assembly was shrinking with age. This is the rubber bumper (circled yellow) at the bottom of the receiver for the striker pin. See pic below
Here is the same latch assembly as is sits in the door. The rubber is on the bottom.
The following part is available from Autozone. It is the same as the original striker pin, but has a larger head. The part comes with a gray plastic sleeve (already taken off in photo) which should be discarded. The intent is to resize the head to fit the opening of the striker receiver.
The first door I fixed had the door dragging a bit on the head. It was too large. I had to find a hi-tech way to find out the correct size to cut the head down to. Here is my method:
I found that my 13mm box end wrench fit like a glove. I measured it with my vernier calipers to find it to be 0.780". I had the head cut to this size.
Here it is installed. No more rattles.
I hope this helps fellow rattle fiends.
[This message has been edited by sjmaye (edited 10-17-2007).]
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05:31 PM
PFF
System Bot
kyote Member
Posts: 1232 From: Germantown, Wisconsin - Metro Milwaukee Area Registered: Sep 2001
Nope ... and if you hear squeeking, it's probably NOT the window or door pieces, but instead the "jaws" part of the door latch is rubbing against the plastic on the factory striker shaft in the body / door frame. The plastic or rubber by the factory "jaws' and the plastic-coated shaft of the striker get old and dry out, then squeek when they mate against each other.
sjmaye - thanks for posting, i got the last one at kragen ; (+) for you
[This message has been edited by PaulJK (edited 10-18-2007).]
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02:40 AM
sjmaye Member
Posts: 2468 From: Hendersonville, TN USA Registered: Jun 2003