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Torque converter to Flexplate bolts? by DRA
Started on: 03-13-2007 11:42 AM
Replies: 10
Last post by: DRA on 03-15-2007 03:09 PM
DRA
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Report this Post03-13-2007 11:42 AM Click Here to See the Profile for DRAClick Here to visit DRA's HomePageSend a Private Message to DRADirect Link to This Post
Looking for sources and part numbers for the 87 2.8L-TH125C flexplate to torque converter bolts.

These are the three bolts that attach the torque converter to the flexplate on the stock 2.8L with the stock converter and the stock TH125C automatic transmission.

I've tried NAPA, AutoZone, and Advance with no luck. Seems this would be a common part for GM's running this transmission.
Dealer says he can order them at around $7.50 each.

Another question, is there any difference in the flexplate to converter bolts from a 2.8L to a 2.5L?
I would think the same bolt would be used across several combos.

Thanks in advance!


Edited to add:
Just got off the phone with three different transmission shops and none have the bolt, is this really that odd of a part?
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[This message has been edited by DRA (edited 03-13-2007).]

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Raydar
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Report this Post03-13-2007 02:03 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RaydarSend a Private Message to RaydarDirect Link to This Post
I can't imagine that the bolts used by the 2.5 would be any different, although I don't know for sure.
Although the stall speeds are different, the torque converters are basically the same, across the Fiero platform.
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2farnorth
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Report this Post03-13-2007 02:34 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 2farnorthSend a Private Message to 2farnorthDirect Link to This Post
I had a simular problem with my 2.5 auto. The bolt is a very specific length and the head is very thin. I got some mixed up with some very simular looking flywheel bolts from a stick and had a bolt head clearance problem. Had take them back out and find the correct ones (in my used parts supply). Don't think I have any more of them. Had a hard time finding what I needed. You might try a wrecking yard if you don't want to pay the dealer prices.
Also, when you do find some make sure that you use locktyte on the threads. I had one back out and caused a heck of a rackett after about 100 miles.

Dave

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DRA
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Report this Post03-13-2007 04:45 PM Click Here to See the Profile for DRAClick Here to visit DRA's HomePageSend a Private Message to DRADirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by 2farnorth:

I had a simular problem with my 2.5 auto. The bolt is a very specific length and the head is very thin. I got some mixed up with some very simular looking flywheel bolts from a stick and had a bolt head clearance problem. Had take them back out and find the correct ones (in my used parts supply). Don't think I have any more of them. Had a hard time finding what I needed. You might try a wrecking yard if you don't want to pay the dealer prices.
Also, when you do find some make sure that you use locktyte on the threads. I had one back out and caused a heck of a rackett after about 100 miles.

Dave



Very familiar with that sound! Mine was making a heck of a racket (just reached 500 miles on the rebuild) and was afraid I had some more serious issues with the new motor, scared the crap out of me. Ended up being one flexplate to converter bolt gone and the two others had backed out pretty far.

I put a bolt in temporarily and tightened the other two back up to run to AutoZone to see if they had anything in the HELP section. The one bolt I used had a considerably thicker head but the clearence seems to be okay, I turned the flexplate and used a light to see how close it came to hitting on anything and it looks like there is plenty of clearence. I picked up some torque converter bolts that look the same as the temporary one I installed and am going to swap them in tomorrow.
I am concerned a little about clearence but the one I put in looks fine and as far as the other two had backed out if they didn't hit anything I don't beleive these new ones will. I'll know for sure tomorrow and yes, I did pick up some loctite even though the new ones I picked up are already pre-coated.

Wonder if the clearence is different on the 2.5 and 2.8, what did your clearence issues involve?
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Report this Post03-13-2007 05:07 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 2farnorthSend a Private Message to 2farnorthDirect Link to This Post
After thinking about it I believe my clearance problem may have involved the flexplate to crank bolts instead. Seems to me the TC wouldn't fit up to the flexplate and I had to change out those other six bolts. Sorry about the confusion.

Before you put it back togetther for good, remove all three of the flexplate to convertor bolts and see if the flexplate wiggles on the crank. Those have been known to back out also..... But correcting that requires seperating the eng and trans.

Good luck,
Dave
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DRA
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Report this Post03-13-2007 05:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for DRAClick Here to visit DRA's HomePageSend a Private Message to DRADirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by 2farnorth:

After thinking about it I believe my clearance problem may have involved the flexplate to crank bolts instead. Seems to me the TC wouldn't fit up to the flexplate and I had to change out those other six bolts. Sorry about the confusion.

Before you put it back togetther for good, remove all three of the flexplate to convertor bolts and see if the flexplate wiggles on the crank. Those have been known to back out also..... But correcting that requires seperating the eng and trans.

Good luck,
Dave


I do need to check the others as you suggested, thanks for pointing that out (now you've got me worried about those LOL).
I'll cross my fingers and say a prayer!

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Report this Post03-13-2007 05:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageSend a Private Message to fierofoolDirect Link to This Post
Glad you found the problem, David. If you insist on going back with stock bolts, let me know and I'll check some of the yards up here to see if we can get some used ones. If you would, check with your parts supply house and see if any other GM's share the same bolt. Would be helpful at the bone yard.
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Report this Post03-13-2007 06:17 PM Click Here to See the Profile for DRAClick Here to visit DRA's HomePageSend a Private Message to DRADirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by fierofool:

Glad you found the problem, David. If you insist on going back with stock bolts, let me know and I'll check some of the yards up here to see if we can get some used ones. If you would, check with your parts supply house and see if any other GM's share the same bolt. Would be helpful at the bone yard.


I was very relieved to find out it wasn't something more serious, I can't say that enough!
I have heard it is a good idea to replace these because of the stress involved so I'm going to go with some fresh ones. I'll know tomorrow how the ones I picked up from the HELP section at AZ work out. I'll post results and part number if they work out okay.
I'll order the dealer part when funds allow and ask about cross reference on the bolts, most of the V8 RWD's use the same bolt so I would have thought the V6 FWD would pretty much be the same.

Summit lists ARP torque converter bolts ARP-230-7304 for Chevy, 200-4R - 700R4 - 4L60 - 4L60E - 4L80E, the specs on these bolts are Thread Size: 10mm x 1.5
Underhead Length (in): 0.590 in.
This appears to me to be the same thread and length as the ones I need to replace and come in sets of three.

The ones I picked up to use as temps are HELP part #14040 and are 10mm X 1.5mm X 15mm.

Original equipment on the right, new HELP bolt on the left (sorry about pic quality or lack of LOL)

[This message has been edited by DRA (edited 03-13-2007).]

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DRA
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Report this Post03-15-2007 10:54 AM Click Here to See the Profile for DRAClick Here to visit DRA's HomePageSend a Private Message to DRADirect Link to This Post
Dropping the starter made it a lot easier to torque the bolts to 55 ft lbs, I finished up the switch yesterday afternoon. I see no clearence issues using the GM RWD torque converter bolts from the HELP section at AZ, been on a couple of errands and no problems.
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Report this Post03-15-2007 02:21 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RaydarSend a Private Message to RaydarDirect Link to This Post
The one on the right almost looks like a flywheel to crankshaft bolt.
I can't think of a thing that either of the bolts might hit, other than the cam cover on the back of the block. Even that is doubtful.
But think about it... If the bolts that were in there were able to back out far enough to fall out, and didn't hit anything in the process, you should be good with the new ones.
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Report this Post03-15-2007 03:09 PM Click Here to See the Profile for DRAClick Here to visit DRA's HomePageSend a Private Message to DRADirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Raydar:

The one on the right almost looks like a flywheel to crankshaft bolt.
I can't think of a thing that either of the bolts might hit, other than the cam cover on the back of the block. Even that is doubtful.
But think about it... If the bolts that were in there were able to back out far enough to fall out, and didn't hit anything in the process, you should be good with the new ones.


I think I'm gonna schedule an inspection for about 250 miles from now, seeing as the others lasted almost 400 miles if the are going to loosen at all they should be starting to at 250. I was thinking the same thing on the clearence issue, it looks like the one cam completely out without hitting anything.
The bolts I put in are listed for GM RWD applications, converter to flexplate bolts.

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[This message has been edited by DRA (edited 03-15-2007).]

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