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Power locks not working? This may be a solution by JumpStart
Started on: 04-18-2007 02:48 PM
Replies: 10
Last post by: JazzMan on 10-31-2007 05:19 PM
JumpStart
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Report this Post04-18-2007 02:48 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JumpStartSend a Private Message to JumpStartDirect Link to This Post
I had tried for awhile to get my passenger door lock to work but it only seemed to move sometimes if I helped it by pushing or pulling on the rod a bit. Since it wasnt any good to me anyway I just pulled it apart cleaned it up and now it seems to be working fine. This is what I did....

The five circles are the rivits that need to be drilled out. The red ones are the two that hold the seloniod in place.



Once it was unpluged and out,I used a knife to slowly pry these two pieces apart. Keep the gold piece on top to help keep from dropping or losing the two small springs and brushes in the black base. Dont worry, It doesnt fly all apart when you do this.



After it was apart I used a Dremmel tool with a small wire brush to lightly clean these areas marked with the green arrows.



After putting it back together I used these screws,nuts and washers to replace the rivits that was holding the hardwaer on.



I did find that the bottom screw circled in red was a bit harder to get in so I removed the two bolts just below that, marked with blue circles, so I could push the window rail back to give me more room to put the washer and nut on from behind.



Bolt everything back together and use the same screws to replace the remaining rivit holes and you should be good to go.



I do hope this might help someone out.

Steve

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whadeduck
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Report this Post04-18-2007 02:55 PM Click Here to See the Profile for whadeduckSend a Private Message to whadeduckDirect Link to This Post
Just curious as to why the rivets circled in green have to be driled out too. Shouldn't just the two circled in red have to come out in order to get the solenoid out?

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Pyrthian
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Report this Post04-18-2007 03:01 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PyrthianSend a Private Message to PyrthianDirect Link to This Post
I had sticky locks too. I found that just spraying the parts down with white grease while working the lock/unlock button worked them all loose & nice again. just gummy'd up. I wanted to get them working nice to add keyless entry.
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JumpStart
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Report this Post04-18-2007 03:17 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JumpStartSend a Private Message to JumpStartDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by whadeduck:

Just curious as to why the rivets circled in green have to be driled out too. Shouldn't just the two circled in red have to come out in order to get the solenoid out?




The large bracket that the armrest screws to is rivited in the green circles. The position of it prevent access to the top rivit that holds the solenoid on.

Mine did not seem to really be sticking just lack of good current. I did try white grease first but it didnt help on mine so I took it apart and cleaned it up now both work.
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whadeduck
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Report this Post04-18-2007 03:20 PM Click Here to See the Profile for whadeduckSend a Private Message to whadeduckDirect Link to This Post
My bad. You're right. I've had mine off for a while now so I kinda forgot about them. Good post. Never hurts to clean things like that out after twenty years or so.

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Brint
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Report this Post04-18-2007 08:54 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BrintSend a Private Message to BrintDirect Link to This Post
Excellent post! Thanks.
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ly41181
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Report this Post04-18-2007 09:32 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ly41181Send a Private Message to ly41181Direct Link to This Post
+ for you!
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Richjk21
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Report this Post10-31-2007 02:07 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Richjk21Send a Private Message to Richjk21Direct Link to This Post
Just a tip for anyone who does this, mark the orientation of the metal housing holding the magnets, and make sure to reassemble it the same way it was when you took it apart, otherwise your one lock motor will run backwards. Pretty amusing when your two lock buttons are going in opposite directions .... except for the whole having to take it apart again to correct the issue


Rich

[This message has been edited by Richjk21 (edited 10-31-2007).]

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fierohoho
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Report this Post10-31-2007 02:30 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierohohoSend a Private Message to fierohohoDirect Link to This Post
Another sticking point for the problems with the power locks is the latch mechanism itself.

I have pulled several and degreased/cleaned them and regreased them as they tend to hold dirt and gum up like the 20+ year old lock motors do.

Excellent thread Steve, +4U

Steve

P.S. Cool name

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Where will the road take you today?

Some helpful links I've done
How to remove inner door panels, with pics.
How to remove outer door panels, with pics.
How to make rear coil-overs using factory struts, with pics.
How to remove rear bearing hubs, with pics.
How to modify the stock Fiero radio for MP3 players, with pics.
How to come up with the right coolant hoses for that engine swap...With Pics.
Basic Fiero electrical testing "How To" and equipment...with pics.

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darkhorizon
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Report this Post10-31-2007 02:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for darkhorizonSend a Private Message to darkhorizonDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Pyrthian:

I had sticky locks too. I found that just spraying the parts down with white grease while working the lock/unlock button worked them all loose & nice again. just gummy'd up. I wanted to get them working nice to add keyless entry.


x2, my grand prix did this.
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JazzMan
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Report this Post10-31-2007 05:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JazzManSend a Private Message to JazzManDirect Link to This Post
Nice post. It seems that one of the problems is the armature getting corroded and that corrosion causing rubbing against the permanent magnets. I wonder if there's some way to prevent that oxidation without adding so much thickness that it rubs the magnets?

JazzMan
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