quote Originally posted by Fieroseverywhere: I ordered some more parts last night. Here is a list of what I got. 1) one 93 camaro 3.4L belt tentioner assembly - Rockauto $29.79 ( per this thread: https://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...050818-2-052483.html ) 2) one 90 Chevy Astro 4.3L w/o AC tensioner pully - Rockauto $11.19 (per same thread as above) 3) one Gates premium 180* t-stat - Rockauto $5.95 (only because I'm using the 91 seville Superchip programing) 4) one CSI inline filler neck part #csi-973 - Summit $27.95 (as listed on Rockcrawls site) 5) one 20lb radiator/thermo cap red with built in temp gauge - Summit $19.95 6) one set 88 poly trailing arm suspension bushings - Summit $51.39 7) one set camber adjusting bolts - Summit $9.95 I will edit this post later to add some pics of the items bought for anyone who would like to see them.

Everything

mount


brake




belts


cooling

suspension


I own page 2. hehe

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 06-27-2007).]

excellent write up. I was so glad to see more posted today, and then now you'r going to make me wait till next month for more. Man this is like a good cliffhanger. I am getting my crank back today, and he is ordering my main and rod bearings and my piston rings. They should be in on friday. I have decided to stay with my factory camshaft instead of the Delta. Just need to spend the money on other things, and I am much more of a 0-60 driver than needing more speed over 100 mph. I just like leaving the light fast. and I like turns also. The torque off the line is going to be enough of a thrill for me. Let us know more as it happens,

Darren

Actually I've decided to slip an extra weekend in there. I will be continuing it next weekend 6/30-7/1. I have enought parts gathered for a couple of days. My plan is to install the poly bushings and brake brackets onto the cradle and get the belt routing done this time. I will get lots of pics also. My original plan was to wait and take some extra time off from work to get more done but now I think I can do both. We are almost ready to mount it to the cradle but I still need to buy mounts. I have decided to go with Rodney's poly tranny mounts which comes out to be about 150 dollars. I then need a couple of the standard GM poly tranny mounts to mount the 4.9. I think the total will be about 200 including shipping.

More to come as things progress.

My part should be here on friday so hopefully I will have something to post on Monday.

Glad you're doing more this weekend. Can't wait.

Darren

Its update time again!

Had a pretty productive day today. After a couple of hours working on that stupid scooter I was able to get back to the 4.9. Got the motor rebuilt (scooter) and when we went to start it we found out that all of a sudden there is no spark. We checked all of the conectors, fuses, and tested continuity everywhere. Power goes through the whole system. Spark plug is new and worked a couple weeks ago. We tried to jumper the coil and it was enough to give my dad a couple of good jolts but would not light the plug. We decided to let it go for the day and move on.
I will just figure it out later.

First thing we jumped right into getting the idler and tensioner pullies mounted. This took a couple of hours because as most of you already know you have to make a bracket and a couple of spacers. This is actually really easy if you have the right tools. It just takes time to make them. The tensioner mounting bracket is a piece if 3/8 steel plate. First, we mounted the tensioner onto the alternator bracket as shown in this picture here.

Make sure you have the rocker covers on and one of the bolts handy to make sure the tensioner is in the right place. We used the small brace that came stock on the 4.9. It is just a small piece of black pipe that is smashed and welded on both ends. It goes from the alternator bolt to the intake manifold. We used this as part of the spacing for the tensioner. We then did a mock up using some paperboard we had lying around. After fine tuning the size and shape til we had it the way we wanted it we took out the trusty scribe and traced the mock bracket onto some 3/8 steel plate. It didn't need to be very big at all. After cutting it out with the acetlyne (sp?) torch we took it to the grinder and smoothed and rounded the ends. Unfortunately, I did not take measurments for it. We may make a few more along with the spacers for the tensioner and idler but only if anyone is in need and cannot do it themselves. We are not in business to make parts but I will be willing to copy mine after I have tested them and know they work. If you are interested let me know and I will see what I can do. Enough of this talk I'm sure you guys want pics, so here they are...
Getting ground after the torch work.


The side that mounts to the tentioner gets a whole drilled and tapped. Dont remember the sizes, sorry. As you can see it is just a simple curved bracket. No offset, nothing special.


The other side simply get a whole drilled into it. There is no need to tap this side because the a bolt will just be going through it anyway. We then took a die grinder to the rough edges and smoothed the rest of the bracket out . Next is a trip to the glass beader and a shot of paint. I think it turned out pretty well if I do say so myself.


Next step was to make the spacer that mounts behind the bracket. We took a small piece of alluminum stock and drilled a whole just big enough for the bolt we had to fit. It measured out to be 31/32 of an inch. OD (outer diameter) does not matter here so dont even worry about it. Just make sure it is big enough to still be strong enough for the job. With the spacer and bracket made the only thing left was to bolt it together. Works perfect. Holds tight and secure and allows plenty of movement for the tensioner.


Next step was the idler pully. This one was pretty easy also. Make sure you get the support elbow that mounts behind the edge of the water pump. It bolts the both the block and the waterpump and has an extra whole on the end to mount the idler to. next step was to make the spacer that goes behind the idler. We turner this down on the laithe also. We started with a piece of steel stock with a 3/4 inch diameter. I'm not quite sure of the exact length because we just made it on the fly. Basically we took down side to the size of the idler bearing. I believe it came out to .070 diameter. This side of the spacer extends to about .004 from the edge of the bearing. We dont actually want the bolt and washer that holds the idler on to tighten down on the spacer. It needs to tighten down onto the bearing. The washer is just big enough to hold the bearing and not the seal.

The center section of this spacer is 1/2 inch.

The other end of the spacer is turned down to the size of the whole on the end of the waterpump. Again to just near the end of the whole not past. Next we drilled the whole all the way through the spacer. Polish both end sections and you done. The bolt we used was one out of the thermostat housing. Washer was out of a box. Make sure to use a flanged nut on the end.






We had a ~80 inch belt which we used to size the one needed. Just grab the biggest 6 groove belt that you can find from your local parts store. Cut it where they meet with the tensioner extended fully. Use heavy duty scissors, hose cutters (+++), pruning sheers, or a sharp set of bolt cutters. A knife will work but its harder to be acutate.

Thats it for the pullies. If you don't have access to a lathe find a local place that has one. Bring in the pully and waterpump with the little elbow bracket bolted to it. Most machine shops can put something together pretty quickly if they have the all parts there. It lowers their chance of a mistake also.


Next up was the thermo housing, oil filter housing, throttle body, and distributor. The dist.(wiring and module removed), throttle body and oil FH were cleaned up in the solvent tank first. The throttle body took forever. Prepare yourself if you decide to do this. We gave it a light dusting of paint making sure to stick to the outside only. We did not install it because we dont seem to have a gasket for it. I'll get one on order tomorrow.


The distributor came out pretty clean afterwards. Its missing the clip that holds the five wires coming out of the side but everything else is there and looks good. We'll find out for sure a little later. The O-ring was replaced, electronic parts put back in along with getting re-bushed using a slightly modified panhead (hehe, more harley parts ) bushing. You have to tap out the pin near the gear to get to it. Make sure the 4.9 is at TDC and point the rotor towards the number one cylinder. Make sure you have the oil pump drive shaft in there also. The oil FH cleaned up nicely and appears to be made of magnesium. Light dusting of paint and thats it for this one.



Next up is the thermo housing. Bolted into place with the gasket.


Dad took care of the exhaust manifolds this last week. He's good.


Especially since it used to look similar to this with the big port coming out of the center...


Both were painted with a zinc primer.


We put a couple of the studs in just to take a look at them. Thats it for today. I brought the rocker covers home with me so I can play a bit.

More to come at a later date. Now I leave you with some pics.



Firewall side

Trunk side

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 07-01-2007).]

Another update and a question for you 4.9 guys out there.

Went to the U-pull yard yesterday and found a 90 eldorado there that had not even been touched yet. The whole reason for this trip was for an EGR valve and to take a look at a 4.9 dogbone set-up. This car had both and of course I picked everything. The EGR valve looks like it was put on the car right before it was sent to the yard. I noticed that it had a newer looking rebuilt alternator on it also. I may have to go back for that just to have an extra.



Notice how clean it is inside.


The dogbone and bracket were also very clean and I think it might work very well in a fiero. Here is where the question comes in.
Have any of you tried to use one of these?





These three holes is where it bolts to the head.


Shot of the dogbone and couple of the bracket that bolted it to the caddy (probably wont use this).




It will sit just slightly above the rocker cover. And about a 1/2 inch to the right of it by my preliminary calculations... hehe.

Extra special thanks to the beautiful hand model Marla for the help.


Sorry about the camera phone pics. It is all I have handy.
Anyone have any experiance with this dogbone? Anything I should look out for? Ideas?

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 07-03-2007).]

One more update for tonight.

Just finished ordering more parts for the engine and the install.

http://www.rodneydickman.com/
2 polyurathane transmission mounts - $128
1 competition short throw shifter w/leather boot - $79
1 shifter rebuild kit for the isuzu - $29
1 select arm rebuild kit - $12.50

http://www.rockauto.com/
1 AC delco throttle body gasket set - $20.79
1 AC delco EGR gasket - $4.25

http://www.summitracing.com/
2 suspension techniques RWD GM poly transmission mounts summit pn:ENS-3-1108G $20.95each

http://www.fierostore.com/
1 set of V6 flywheel bolts - $24.95

I will post pics when everything arrives. If you need more info or part numbers on anything let me know.

Bump for the 4th and hopefully for someone that has used a dogbone with the 4.9 install. Anyone?

Sorry I can't be of any help on the dogbone, but I'm glad you found the bracket I was talking about. That's exactly what I have. I'm not using it though. I'm doing the one that comes up from the cradle that Jon has on his site.


I can't find the rod that I'm using. It's packed in a box somewhere right now, but it was from a 90's Nissan Maxxima I think. I will post pics, when I get that far along.

So far this weekend I went ahead and put my new trunk lid on and swapped all the hardware from the old one and added a trunk popper which I had never had. Then I installed my new 120mph gauge and aux pod. My coupe is starting to get an attitude. Now if I could just get her an engine. I got a lot of the parts last week, but am still needing to do a little more prep work. I will probably get started assembling this weekend. I am going to drop the heads of to the machine shop and hope to have them done in 2 weeks. Do you have any of your wiring harness done yet?

Thanks for the write up again.

Darren

hi guy;
i used one on my caddy install and it bolts on to the rear head right beside the tranny filler.
works great also used a rear tie rod on the other end as rockwall shows,
rock hard now...
l8r clynt

quote Originally posted by Fieroseverywhere: http://www.rodneydickman.com/ 2 polyurathane transmission mounts - $128 1 competition short throw shifter w/leather boot - $79 1 shifter rebuild kit for the isuzu - $29 1 select arm rebuild kit - $12.50 http://www.summitracing.com/ 2 suspension techniques RWD GM poly transmission mounts summit pn:ENS-3-1108G $20.95each http://www.fierostore.com/ 1 set of V6 flywheel bolts - $24.95

RodneyDickman.com
Poly tranny mounts - front


Rear



Competition short throw shifter + leather boot and mounting ring


Shifter rebuild kit - oops, wasnt paying attention and ordered a Getrag kit. I'll give this to my dad for his 88 GT. Re-ordering an isuzu kit.

Select arm rebuild kit


SummitRacing.com
Poly mounts to be used for 4.9 motor mounts. Notice they are the exact same that rodney uses for his poly tranny mounts.


FieroStore.com
Oops. They screwed up and only sent one of the flywheel bolts. I gave them a call and the other 5 are on the way.


Special thanks to Ernie (PFF name escapes me at the moment) for the 88 throttle cable, no AC or cruise. Looks new and the price is unbeatable. $25 shipped. Also going out today is a set of 88 rear calipers. They need rebuilt but for the set at $40 shipped well worth the money.


Everything else is scheduled for delivery on tuesday and wednesday. I will get pics when it all comes in. At least I have everything needed to mount the 4.9 to the cradle.

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 07-07-2007).]

Got more done on the motor this weekend. Also got the clutch done on my 85SE.

First off the clutch. Dad and I had a bet going on what the problem actually was. I said it was the clutch plate dad said pressure plate.


Hehe. I win! Though the pressure plate doesnt look that great either.

Here is how we remove the motors. I wont go into any more detail then this pic. It works and now under 2 hours removal time with both of us. Its a piece of boxed steel if anyone is curious.


Next up was the 4.9. Most of the rest of the stuff is pretty self explanitory. I did want to add something that I missed earlier. There is a camshaft release bearing that goes on the end of the camshaft that we had forgot. We had to remove the front cover to put it on. Thanks to the cat red we put on the gasket earlier we didn't have to buy a new gasket. This is important, make sure you put it on.


Got the egr mounted. Two 13mm bolts hold it on. Dont forget the gasket.


Got the throttle body mounted. Three 13mm bolts torqued to 162in/lbs. Gasket also.


Next up is the thermostat housing. Three 13mm bolts torqued to 20ft/lbs. Gasket for the base and a gasket around the t-stat itself. The only thing left is the sensors and wiring for the top of this baby.


Installed the exhaust manifolds. We glass beaded and zinc primered the bolts along with some anti-seize for easier removal later if need be.



Also put on the motor mounts. The first one is the main mounts that I bought from Rockcrawl. Fit perfect with some minor clearancing of one of the bolt holes.



The other motor mount is a stock 4.9 side mount. I am using this with the poly mounts I mentioned earlier in this thread. I will need to add a piece of angle iron to the cradle as a place for mount to attach to. I added the support bar as an extra precaution though some others I have seen on the forum have not.



The rocker covers are finally finished. Took me a week and a half because of the heat and humidity we have had this last week and all of the coats of paint I put on them. I'm very happy with the results. I think some of you will be pleasantly suprised also. I would love some feedback on how you guys think they turned out.



This one has become my new screen saver for the time being.


I also put on the dipstick. I just bent it up for the now. I may decide to change it later.


I also added the fuel rail, some of the sensors, and started working on the install part. I will get more pics later. I will be pulling the old motor out in a couple of weeks. Then I can test fit and get the 88 cradle ready to go into the car. After that, the install of the 4.9 will begin.

Not much left to do for the rebuild. This will be my last update in this thread. I will continue to answer any questions anyone has. I will also be starting a new thread titled "4.9 install" if there is any interest. I will also be doing an 88 cradle swap and will start a thread for that also. If you have read along then you have an idea of what this car is getting before the summer is over. I will add links to the new threads as soon as I start them. If you are interested let me know, otherwise I will wait til the car is done and post all the pics I have taken then.

This is not a difficult motor to rebuid at all. With what I heard from forum members I thought I might run into some problems. I would like to put your fears to rest on this subject. There are no special tool required, nothing special that this motor requires. The only thing different is that you need to be more careful with the block because it is alluminum and make sure that the sleeves are sealed properly. I'm sure I will do another some day soon. Total cost of rebuild including cost of the motor itself, reground cam, gasket set, bearings, rings, and exhaust manifolds... $789.57 over three months. Worth every penny in my opinion.
Later guys.

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 07-16-2007).]

Don't wait till it's done, I am really following this. The covers look AMAZING!!!!!! Really nice look. I am still waiting to paint mine for now. I might get to them next weekend. This weekend I got my Crankshaft and camshaft installed. Still need to clean up a few more pistons. At the moment I am waiting for my Hylomar. This dude on Ebay sold it to me, he had good feedback, and most said that shipping was fast. I have waited 3 weeks and finally emailed him and he said that I should wait 6 weeks! That is all I am waiting on to get the bottom end finished up. If his ad would have said anything about a six week wait, I would have bough somewhere else. SO here I sit, still cleaning parts.

I do have a question. I have 2 front PFI engraved valve covers, but when you swap the back for a front, what do you do with the tube that used to come off the old rear cover that went to the snorkle? And what do you do with the front cover, (now on the rear) Tube that goes from the PCV valve? I guess you could plug that with something. Just let me know what you're doing about this valve cover swap. I just haven't seen any good pictures on what the answer is, and yet I know that a lot of people are doing it, so that it looks better, and so you have an easy accessible oil fill.

Thanks again for keeping us up[ to date. I look for your posts every week. It's been very helpful. I am hoping to have mine running by Labor Day. Less than 2 months away! Can't wait to hear it start.

Darren

I'll keep up the updates for your sake. As for the rockercovers, most of what I have seen in pics is people just using a small filter as a breather. There don't see any reason you couldn't use that tube off of the rear and run it like normal. I haven't decided what I am going to do with mine yet. I will post some of the pics of the breathers that I have when I get home tonight. I have the stock caddy intake and will probably use the airbox also. The stock fiero one in the car is rusted pretty good and I don't really want to put a new one back in. I'm puting my PCV valve in the trunk sided cover and routing the tube to the snorkel. I have the black plastic cover that fits on the fuel rail. I will run the tube under it and probably paint it red. I'm hoping for labor day also. Still have tons to do and unfortunately my time to work on it is very limited. Right now I get about 2-4 days per month to get any work done on it. 3 months to rebuild a motor is rediculous.

It may be quicker to order some Hylomar from another source and cancell the order with that guy. 6 weeks is just plain crazy. You could also look for a local supplier so you won't have to worry about shipping. I'll post those pics later.

The Hylomar finally came today. Now I can move forward with the sleeves and pistons. Should have the bottom end done by this weekend. Still need to finish out some stuff in the engine bay and paint the cradle. I put Por-15 on it, so it's protected, but it fades like crazy in the sun, so I am using their final coat to give it a good shine. Thanks for the advice on the covers. I will make final plans this weekend as to what I am going to do. I will probably keep the Cad air box as well. I just need to find a tube to connect to the rectangular inlet. Probably what was on the caddy will work.

Thanks again for all your help.

Darren

WOW im so glad you are doin this so detailed!! I just got my engine to school today so the teardown begins tomorrow. im excited! ill be watching you!

------------------

See my film creations..
See F-I-E-R-O's Fiero store!
Please help me bring Betty back to life!! i need free parts and tech help!
Black Betty Build
“Two roads diverged in a wood, and I -- I took the one less traveled by, and that has made all the difference.”

let us know what you are doing with yours as you go along. All help is appriciated

Darren

yea ill be taking pix and doin this slowly and methodicly(sp?) itll be nice to have an instructor there too.. but im printing up alot of your 2 threads as reference (i wish you wouldve dont that printer version thing though.. ) so thx!

:edit: ok you did do a printer version.. but the pix still show up as 100k i was hoping to print it all.. ill figure somethin out!

[This message has been edited by BobadooFunk (edited 07-18-2007).]

quote Originally posted by BobadooFunk: yea ill be taking pix and doin this slowly and methodicly(sp?) itll be nice to have an instructor there too.. but im printing up alot of your 2 threads as reference (i wish you wouldve dont that printer version thing though.. ) so thx! :edit: ok you did do a printer version.. but the pix still show up as 100k i was hoping to print it all.. ill figure somethin out!

If there are any pics you want to see in particular let me know and I will e-mail them to you. I still have the full size versions on the computer here. All will easily fill the computer screen.

Or if anyone can tell me how to fix the pics to fill the screen here and not go over 100K I'll do it. I'm no good with cameras or the photoshop programs so I could use some help here. I've tried taking pics with a 6.1MP camera. They look great but in order to use them on this forum they you have to reduce them to a rediculously small size. I have tried my 1.3MP camers phone also. I can get the pics bigger and the qualitity is decent. I have also tried reducing the resolution on the camera phone. This makes the pics bigger yet but they look horrible. I just don't know how some of you guys do it. I'd be happy to go back and fix.

quote Originally posted by Fieroseverywhere: If there are any pics you want to see in particular let me know and I will e-mail them to you. I still have the full size versions on the computer here. All will easily fill the computer screen. Or if anyone can tell me how to fix the pics to fill the screen here and not go over 100K I'll do it. I'm no good with cameras or the photoshop programs so I could use some help here. I've tried taking pics with a 6.1MP camera. They look great but in order to use them on this forum they you have to reduce them to a rediculously small size. I have tried my 1.3MP camers phone also. I can get the pics bigger and the qualitity is decent. I have also tried reducing the resolution on the camera phone. This makes the pics bigger yet but they look horrible. I just don't know how some of you guys do it. I'd be happy to go back and fix.

ah! that i can do!

when you have your pic, go to imageshack.us
click the resize checkbox (640x480), you know the rest!

o yea! i got the top of it pretty apart.. ill take a pic or 2 tomorrow

[This message has been edited by BobadooFunk (edited 07-18-2007).]

very nice page . your gonna love every bit of what you did . i loved rebuilding mine . it now has under 200 miles on the rebuild with all the mods done to the engine. man i wish i could get more time to go play.

what manifolds are you useing?

------------------

DONE: 86gt 5 speed 4.9 complete rebuild with buds outback northstar pistons , delta cams E303 cam , full ported , polished , stronger head springs, and flow tested heads and manifolds. rockcrawl's custom chip , polished crank . too much to list

88 coupe t-top #656 1 of only 339 base coupes made SOLD
85 t-top BEING PARTED
87gt parts car
86 and 87 fiero database www.geocities.com/cwandall/fiero.html

quote Originally posted by wiccantoy: very nice page . your gonna love every bit of what you did . i loved rebuilding mine . it now has under 200 miles on the rebuild with all the mods done to the engine. man i wish i could get more time to go play. what manifolds are you useing?

Thanks for the compliments. I'm just itching to drive this thing. The whole point of the car is to be lightweight and nimble. Should be about 2600lbs and anywhere from 200-250hp (superchip programing, cam, porting, good gaskets/rings, custom exhaust). I am using the 86deville manifolds, modified of course. I also have a set of 93 deville manifolds but when I look at the ports on them I see a nasty restriction that the 86's dont have. The 86 are also stainless while the 93 are cast iron. I will probably wrap them and paint black before the engine is done. I also want more time to play , once its running I can bring it home and get time to play alot more often. This day or two every couple weeks is driving me .

I found some three way cats the other day and am trying to figure a way to make them work for my exhaust. Something similar to this...


Essentially I'll be lengthing the manifolds with flanges and pipe and combining at the cat instead of using a Y pipe. I can put a heated O2 sensor in them also for that part. I figure one pipe under engine into stock style muffler. Not a true dual exhaust but it will be unique and should flow nicely since the cats are free flowing anyway. I would love to do a true dual system but the space has me a little worried on how to make it all fit. I have to worry about emissions here and just cant see space for 2 cats, 2 mufflers and an equalizer tube along with all the tubing needed to run the distance. Goal is true dual but I have a backup plan just in case. Any thoughs on this?

Also considering stagering the cats and using one of these under the engine to equalize the pressure and clear the oilpan.

Probably use a shorter one for clearance. 2 inch pipe should be fine for duals but I still need to find something similar to this that will actually fit in the little space that a fiero has.

So far they all have been too big. I finally got the clutch fixed in my daily driver so I can go take same measurments so I know what kind of space I have to work with. NO longer fieroless! Actually, I think I'll go do that right now. Any suggestions would be great.

I have been trying to figure out how to do a shaker intake and this pic pretty much covered it for me. Thought I would share.


I'm thinking I might try something with the stock 2.5 aircleaner housing and see what I come up with. Suggestions, ideas?

Maybe with a cover for the rest of the engine similar to something like this?


Here is a good write up on how to install one on a Mustang forum.
http://www.mustangforums.co...ystem-1939405-1.html

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 07-22-2007).]

I have been thinking about a shaker myself for some time - the one BIG problem is the hump on the decklid.

1) you would have to cut it out completely and rework it the deck lid so that it is flat.
2) fabricate a fairly wide shaker scoop to cover the 'hump' area.

If you beat me to getting something to work - I would most like to see your solution (right now I am busy with house matters to spend much time on the car).

Cheers,
Tim

I will be using a fastback decklid so this wond be much of a problem. Even on the notchback decklids there is an area on the underside of the decklid that can be cut out without doing and structural damage. Actually I was just coming back to post something else I found.
http://tachrev.com/Web_Pages/ShakerOrder1.html
Kits available which include pontiac trans-am 4.9l. This kit includes the silonoid to close everything up when you are not driving or not on the gas. That is just personal preference I guess. Actually not that I think about it, it may be a difference between auto and manual.

From what I can tell the stock intake is still used but the shaker can allow more air when needed? Or you can set it up to be on all the time and only draw air from there? I just dont have any experiance with them so I am trying to learn now. Info would be greatly appreciated.

With the 4.9 throttle body being on top of the motor it only make sense to take air from the closest spot which is through the decklid. This would also give you the flexibility to use the side scoops (add a passenger side scoop) as either a way to ram air into the engine bay to vent through the stock top vents. Uh oh, I feel another mod coming along and the motor isn't even in the car yet!

Maybe something like Rodney Dickmans cold air intake setup to chanel the air to the top vent. Could work out very well.
http://www.rodneydickman.com/retail_new.html
click on engine and its at the top, for those who don't already know.

I'm relocating the battery to the front and wont need the stock intake so I will have free space on both sides of the motor for whatever or to just keep the air flowing better and unobstructed.

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 07-23-2007).]

quote Originally posted by Fieroseverywhere: Kits available which include pontiac trans-am 4.9l. This kit includes the silonoid to close everything up when you are not driving or not on the gas. That is just personal preference I guess. Actually not that I think about it, it may be a difference between auto and manual. I'm relocating the battery to the front and wont need the stock intake so I will have free space on both sides of the motor for whatever or to just keep the air flowing better and unobstructed.

The 3rd Gen Camaros had a system like that from the factory (aka: air induction) - flaps opened with the tranny kick down.

Yea, the fastback decklid would be ideal, but as a side note - the throttle body, as it sits in the car, is off center. Also of not it would be tough to run an air intake from the passenger side with clearances with the decklid and belt.

I was basically going to try the same route as Rockcrawl did - custom make scoop, but feed mine both from the stock location, plus use the "air induction" method of some sort when I mash the pedal. I just have to get to the point of building one...

quote Originally posted by Fieroseverywhere: I have been trying to figure out how to do a shaker intake and this pic pretty much covered it for me. Thought I would share. I'm thinking I might try something with the stock 2.5 aircleaner housing and see what I come up with. Suggestions, ideas? Maybe with a cover for the rest of the engine similar to something like this? Here is a good write up on how to install one on a Mustang forum. http://www.mustangforums.co...ystem-1939405-1.html

Rockcrawl ( aka John) built a nice shaker scoop deck lid on one of his Fieros a while back and it looked really well done. He may be able to supply a few tips.

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87GT 3.4 Turbo- 0-60 5.2 seconds
2006 3800SC Series III swap in progress
Engine Controls, PCM goodies,
re-programming & odd electronics stuff
" I'M ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

Actually there is a guy on Ebay selling one of the firebird shaker scoops. He didnt list any details. I sent him a couple questions trying to find out the year car and get some pics. He had the best price 35+15 shipping for the scoop. I hpe he gets back to me today. Many of the new Mustangs have them also as an option. I have also found many other older muscle cars that had them. 71-72 Boss 302 Mustangs, 80-81 transam 4.9's, the list goes on. All I really want is the scoop itself. I figure I will have to custom make the lower half anyway. The link to the kit I posted earlier is for the scoop with the silonoid which can be set up either on when car is, or with mashed pedal. Good price for the kit also. I'm considering something with stock 2.5 aircleaner housing or maybe even the 2.8 housing if there is clearance.

Actually the 2.8 housing may be the perfect idea. I have one of these filters sitting on a shelf that will fit inside. I dont even know exactly where it came from but it should work perfectly. I have only the filter and not the rest of the setup.
http://www.bomzracing.com/i...=VIEWPROD&ProdID=789

I figure if I cut out the center of the housing and size the hole in the bottom to fit to the 4.9 throttle body I may be able to space and adapt the shaker scoop to work. My only hang up right now is how to attach it to the throttle body. I just wont know for sure til I have the motor in the car and have the shaker scoop in hand to test. Looking at the pics of Rockcrawls setup I think the spacing will be very close. The wheels are turning now and the idea of using the stock fiero or 4.9 intakes have flown right out the window at this point. I'm thinking less then 200 to get it up and running. Well worth the money in my opinion. And the more fiero stock parts I can use the better. Still open to ideas and other options if anyone has any.


EDIT: I was thinking about it being off center also. I'm sure there is a way to center it, I just cant see it yet.

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 07-23-2007).]

I have a few ideas as well on what I want to do with mine, but for now I am just going basic till I can get it all running smooth. Might customize an new system at the beginning of next year, but for now, I'm sticking with the Cadillac system. What I am thinking of would have to have the scoops on the side that I still have to buy. Money money money, does it never end!

Darren

quote Originally posted by Darren's 87 coupe: I have a few ideas as well on what I want to do with mine, but for now I am just going basic till I can get it all running smooth. Might customize an new system at the beginning of next year, but for now, I'm sticking with the Cadillac system. What I am thinking of would have to have the scoops on the side that I still have to buy. Money money money, does it never end! Darren

It never ends! Just the way I want it to be.

Most of my car will be scattered anyway so I figure I may as well just do it all now. I am looking for a house right now also and when I find one it will conflict with the fiero addictions some. Now is my time and everything is falling into place so I might as well just go for it. I have a budget of 3-5K for the whole car and am well under it so far (1400). I still need a few parts for the cradle swap, brake upgrade, body, and wheels and tires. If I could make the stock 15's work I would but I don't think that will be an option for me. So instead of the original plan of getting tires for the stock GT rims I have to get new wheels also. The way I look at it no matter how much I spend on this car I wont be anywhere near what my girlfriend spend on her 2001 Ford focus. My car will be build for me by me. You just cant buy a car that performs ont the same level of what you can build a fiero to.

I agree with that as well. All my parts have slowly been getting together and now it's all going to happen. However we did find out last month that we are pregnant again, so I am trying to get all of this done, so I can start getting the house ready for another little one. Thats why I'm working so hard on it now. Won't be anytime for it after February. Me and my boy arehaving fun with this right now, and he has been patient for me to get the Fiero running again. In his car seat, he feels like it's a car that is just his size. He loves it and is ready for it to run again. He keeps telling me to make sure and make it go fast like Lightning McQueen. I guess I'm just a little kid too, cause I want it to go fast too.

Hope yours gets running soon.
Keep me updated,
Darren

Nice. Congrats. You got plenty of time to get this car up and running. Family matters are always more important then transportation OR toys. Anything I can do to help let me know. And a new (second generation) fiero lover is born!

Gotta teach the young ones early. When they are old enough to drive, the fiero will be a real "classic" and that knowledge will be priceless . Treasure these days. You will remember them forever. And get tons of pics!! They will help when you get too old and your....mind.....

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 07-23-2007).]

Been away from this thread for too long. Things got kinda crazy for a while there. I have set a new time to go get some work done. I am taking some time off and will be going down 8/31-9/3.

I got a few more parts for the next phase of the build.

First off I picked up a front mount battery box . I figure this will be a nice addition to the package and I don't want to build one myself. I'll save that for the bodywork later. The battery box in the car.... well there isn't one. This will be much better then cleaning up and reinstalling a new one.

I got a hold of HTmotorsports. They sent out the 88 engine cradle adapters today. The coilovers are already on the car but nothing has been modified yet. This was the last piece of the puzzle. Now I can officially mount the engine to the car and start on plumbing and wiring.

But first I need to drop the old motor and start cleaning up the engine bay and removing all the unecissary item like the blower motor from the trunk and that old insulation. I also need to swap over the suspension to the 84SE to put it back to stock. We'll see what we have time for labor day weekend.

More to come.

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 08-14-2007).]

Another update.

Here are the part numbers for the required three wire temp sensor/sending unit.

GM - 10096181
AC-Delco - 213-815
Borg Warner - WT3024
CarQuest - TX66
Filko - CS-43
GP Sorenson - 38-5124
Niehoff - DR134TA
Napa/Echlin - ECHTS4020

They run about 15 bucks new. The connector can be found at Rocksuto.com for around 35. You can find it using the vehicle list below.

If you prefer, you can pick them up at your local wrecking yards for very little. I would recommend this for the connector anyway. Get as mich wire as you can, you will need it. Here is a vehicle list for cars that have this sensor/connector. 287 vehicles to choose from.
http://198.208.187.182/inte...tosel=A&part=213-815

Replace the two wire unit in the 4.9 thermo housing with this three wire unit and wire like this...

Pin "A" on the switch goes to "E11" on the ECM
Pin "B" goes to "E16" on the ECM
Pin "C" goes to "C2" on the fiero C500 connector or whatever wire goes directly to the temp gauge (usually tan)

The fan wire comes from the c500 "D1" (usually drk green w/white stripe) and goes to "A11" on the ECM. This allows the ECM to turn on the fan based on the temp the sensor is sending to it. Hope this helps some of you. Now I'm off to the yard to find mine.

Excellent info. Thanks for the update. Mine is coming along. I got the heads on last night, and picked up a rear facia that has the dual cutouts instead of my one outlet 4 cyl rear end. Can't wait to get it all painted, but I probably should get it running first. I will try to get pushrods, rockers, and intake installed tonight.

Take care,
Darren

Glad to hear its coming along good for you. I was just coming to add another update.

Ok after installing the tentioner and idler pully we used an extra long belt to measure the size needed. Cut that belt to the length needed. It came out to be 63 inches. After looking for a while, I found an easy way to find the one I needed. Go to google.com , select products (its under the "more" drop down), enter serpentine belt and the number for the length (example search below) as the item to search for. Most will have a length in the description. I then took this info to rockauto.com to buy the belt at a discount (~20 bucks). The one I ended up using was for a Subaru forester 2.5. It ended up being a 63 1/8th long belt which should work just great. I can adjust the tentioner bracket if needed to get it exact. Make sure it is a 6 rib belt. Others will show up but will not work with the stock 4.9 pullies. For some reason a search for 6 rib belt gave me very little results.

My search example...
http://www.google.com/produ...elt+63&hl=en&show=dd

Got the strut tower adapters today. They look great and come with all the poly mounting hardware included. Excellent price and Lee was really great to work with.

Went to the yard yesterday and found the needed temp sensor connector. I grabbed an extra just in case though it look to have different color wires. The second one came off of the TPS for the same cavalier that I chose. If you want the extra Darren let me know and I will send it to you.

I bought the belt and sensor from Rockauto and they should both be here shortly.

The front 88 calipers for my brake upgrade should be here anytime. I figured I would let you guys know that West Coast Fiero now offers 84-87 front hubs for brake conversions. The are your standard hubs but without the rotors attached. 100 bucks is completely worth it to not have to machine the rotors down to go bigger. All that I need for the brakes is the 12" vette rotors and some braided brake lines. Keep in mind I am using 88 calipers with special brackets to mount them on the 84-87 front. I am using an 88 cradle in this install.

I got to go back to work I will finish this update later.

I'll pass on the connector for now. I have a ton of cars out at the pull a part now that you gave more cars to look into. Shouldn't have a problem finding what I need, and save you the hassle of shipping.

I did stick with the stock cam after some info from Micky Moose, saying that he didn't think it was really worth it. Just a chance for me to save some money. I'm sure it will be plenty fast enough for me as it is.

I will try to get some more pics of what I have going on as soon as I can. It's getting painted black and blue, and it's coming out looking good. Just taking my time. I am ready to get the computer chip sent off and get it reprogrammed by Arron. Did you get that chip done, or are you going another route? Do you know how to get a hold of Arron? I think I have the info at home, I will check tonight.

Talk at you later,
Darren

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quote Originally posted by Darren's 87 coupe: I'll pass on the connector for now. I have a ton of cars out at the pull a part now that you gave more cars to look into. Shouldn't have a problem finding what I need, and save you the hassle of shipping. I did stick with the stock cam after some info from Micky Moose, saying that he didn't think it was really worth it. Just a chance for me to save some money. I'm sure it will be plenty fast enough for me as it is. I will try to get some more pics of what I have going on as soon as I can. It's getting painted black and blue, and it's coming out looking good. Just taking my time. I am ready to get the computer chip sent off and get it reprogrammed by Arron. Did you get that chip done, or are you going another route? Do you know how to get a hold of Arron? I think I have the info at home, I will check tonight. Talk at you later, Darren

You sure you dont want the connector? Its no problem. Shipping and recieving is pretty much what I do for a living.

I was going to use the stock cam but the one that came with the engine was not good. And since I did some port work I decided it was worth it for me. I think it cost ~20 more that a stock replacement would have. I am interested to see how the stock cam compares side by side with the delta re-grind.

Yes, I will be getting a chip from Aaron. I have his phone number and e-mail. He isn't on the forum that often. My plan is still to go with the seville chip. I need to make a final decision on the wheels and tires before I can get one made though. I just keep going back and forth on which size I want. One nice thing about the caddy ECM is the ability to program tire size into it for speedo purposes. He sent me a PM not too long ago with a list of what he needs from me to program it. Do you have this list also?

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 08-21-2007).]

What do you want for the connector? Just go ahead and send it to

As long as you're sure it's no problem.

I'm anxious to see your results with the Delta cam as well. I really want to see if it does what they say. I still might do it at a later date, but my machine guy said that my cam looked to be in really good shape, or else I probably would have done it. I did find Aarons email in an old email. I emailed him this afternoon and hope to get it sent out and back by labor day weekend I hope. I don't think that it will be ready to drive that weekend, but I hope to at least fire it up that weekend.

I am going to wire mine with the 2 O2 sensors as well. I am running 17" rims on mine, but I don't have them yet. I actually have one rim and 3 of the tires. Weird deal, but I got them for cheap, and the one rim was the ones that I have been drooling over, so now I just need to purchase 3 more.

Talk at you soon,
Darren

[This message has been edited by Darren's 87 coupe (edited 08-23-2007).]