My son is going on his 3rd 10" sub. All have been Sony 1100 watt subs mounted in the center console by ecm and are supplied by a Sony 750 watt amp and a Scosch (sp) cap. Do you think heat may be a factor to them all failing? Or just having the music too loud?

Thanks

Sony audio equipment is really only "Ok", constant abuse could do them in.

That said I had two 10" sony subs outlast several of my cars, I just sold them still working perfect and they must be close to 4 years old. Those subs he has shouldn't have any trouble with that amp as long as it is all hooked up correctly.

How are they failing? Do they rattle or just stop working? If they just stop working he may be melting the coils somehow, I wouldn't expect that too happen though.

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Rattle, ratte, rattle

Saw the title of this thread and thought you went to Quiznos

quote Originally posted by randye: Saw the title of this thread and thought you went to Quiznos

That`s funny right there.

I Have My Clarion 10 In The Center Console ..No Problems At All

The Only Problem Is Sony My Good Man !!!

IMO

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a single 10" sub with a sony 750 watt amp might be alittle overkill for a single subwoofer.

i suggest a better subwoofer.

get a diamond audio 10" woofer, it should last a while.

sony DOES or atleast used to make good equipment.

i run sony mobile ES amps in my fiero's and they are nice, my 30x4 amp is rated at over 400 watts of true peak power,
currently i own a 3046 mobile es, a 3546 and a 5046, each one is installed in a fiero.

ive also got an american bass xd-1800 (1300 watt TRUE peak) and a holly wood sound rhd-2000D (1350 watt true peak) amp to run subwoofers.

all my fiero's have nice sound systems in them, and my subaru even has a 8" subwoofer stashed into the side bin on it.

matthew

Ditch the sony, in my book sony is pretty low on the list of good audio equipment.

I tend to agree with the others, sony is one of the cheaper brands out there.

I used to sell car audio, so I may be able to help. First I need to ask a couple of questions. First is the question of RMS vs Max.
When you gave us the wattage for the the sub (at 1100) and the amp (750), which are they? Generally, the RMS rating of a piece of equipment is generally half of the Max rating. It is possible, (and according to my boss) and easier to damage a sub by underpowering it rather than overpowering.

Secondly, what's the ohmage of the sub and amp?

How many channels is the amp, and were you bridging them into the sub? Is the sub dual voice coil, or single?

Those are the only questions that I can think of for now. But I find it unlikely that heat is the primary culprit.

I've got a 10" Infinity Kappa sub that pounds on a bridged two channel 250watt RMS Rockford Fosgate Amp with 4ga power wire, running at 2ohms. No damage here.

Brands that I would recommend are (Not starting a flame war! Just recommending the brands that I've worked with and trust! Not dissing any brands specifically) : Kicker, Rockford Fosgate, Infinity, Kenwood, Pioneer and MTX. Amps - Pioneer, Rockford Fosgate, Kicker.

I have a 10" Sony Xplod that has been in the car for about 3 years now with no probs. I'm pushing it with a 600w Sony Xplod amp. The amp is bridged and adjusted to cutout the high freqs.

How do you have your amp setup and connected?

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I really don't trust the wattage rating of the car stereo companies. The reason is this. I am a guitar/bass player. With 100 watts I can rattle a large size room. With 200 watts I can cause plate glass to undulate.

So, 750 watts in 1 little car speaker????? I don't think so. Just my humble opinion

If you get a voltage converter and hook up a 100 watt musical instrument amplifier on the front seat of your car, feed a cd player into it and crank it, you'll see what I mean.

But, as for the Sony 10" speaker, I believe it is much better to stick with matched products. If the Sony, the manufacturer, says he has a 750 watt amp feeding 4 ohms and you have the same manufacturer saying he has a 4 ohm, 750 watt subwoofer that is matched to the amplifier, you know they have matched the equipment in their lab and you won't have problems generally speaking. Then it doesn't matter if the 750 watts is peak, rms or fictitious marketing. It all should work. That being said, my daughter, when she was young, blew up my set of JBL speakers one night running 50 watts into 100 watt speakers with a crossover system. I'd say that the amp is simply being cranked past the speaker's ability to handle the power in the bass megahertz range.

You need a much tougher speaker IMHO

Arn

IMO the sub is just being overdriven. Doesn't matter what brand sub, if you have the loud function turned on the radio, the bass part of the eq or tone control turned up on the radio, and your amp gain set high, that is just introducing more distortion into the system at high volumes. It is fine at low volumes, but once you get past the breaking point... Keep in mind most amps have some kind of bass boost also. Combine all 3 types of boosts and you are overloaded. It's kinda like turning the gain control up too high, then making it go around the clock 3 more times. I've blown very few subs over the years. It is all how you dial it in, granted, quality wise some subs are more likely to go faster.

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I have blown several speakers from sony, pioneer,audiobaun, bazooka but have had a set of chepo Visoniks that would out pound them and go in the long run more so than the 3-4 times higher priced brand names. With that said I am also a Bassist and also I have sold and installed stereo's for home and auto for a long time and have done everything from 40+ speakers on a mono amp to putting 2000 watts at .5 ohms to a 5watt 8ohm stock speaker just to catch it on fire for fun. But as for a guitar amp vs car stereo amp there is no contest that a equally matched amp/sub combo vs a bass amp/speaker set because a majority of guitar amps run at 8-12ohms so if that amp it putting out 100watts at 10ohms then its more like 800watts@4ohms and RMS at 400watts.

subs are 1100 watts peak or RMS? @ what ohms?
same for amp: peak or sustained @ what ohms

heat will melt the coil. thats basicly the only failure, besides physical speaker abuse.

is something hitting the cone? elbow from the console? wire from the rear?
one of my tricks is to use RTV/Silicone to secure the wire behind the speaker to the enclosure, to keep it from slapping about - and keep it from going someplace that may interfere with cone movement

but, anyways - I will bet the speakers 1100 watt rating is PEAK - not sustained(RMS) - which translates down to maybe 600-700 watts sustained

I swear Bonzo I have never seen your interior, but check this out. Mine is an 8" though.