My rear window rubber seal has dried out quite a bit and looks a little rough in spots. (from spending many days in the hot Texas and Bakersfield sun) OK, actually I'm referring to the back window on my Reatta but I figured you guys would be able to help far more than the Reatta.net guys.

Anyways, is there a product out there that will bring new life to old rubber?
I have been told the only way out is to paint the rubber but I would like to see
if there is another way around the problem.

Thanks, Kit / 86 GT / 90 Reatta Coupe

I use to use a product called Rubber-Renew and love the stuff but they don't make it anymore.

I have not tried this product yet but wondered what it might do.

http://tinyurl.com/2ars8n
http://tinyurl.com/2ezyal

I bought the sruff from a company called MCMElectronics.com

A forum member, Bigfieroman, and I tried a trick that he heard of on here awhile ago. I think we had negligable results, but I doubt it made the problem worse.

We put a decent amount of patroleum jelly on the rubber parts, and let it sit in the sun for a few hours, then promptly cleaned ALL of it off. The oil in the patroleum breaks down the rubber and technicly makes it swell a bit, so as a result you get a bit better seal.

dont paint iwas told that vasiline reconditions them, did it on my sunroof 2 yrs. ago stopped the wind noise, and also the water. now im replacing with fiero store seal. my opinion, it works but for only so long. generously apply and let sit for two days let that sun bake it, then wipe clean. its alright if it dont all come off , it will be lubed, you need it with that sun ,,,good luck

Your replies echo what I was thinking too...to somehow "moisturize" the rubber by adding an oily/grease based product.

After I posted this subject, I went out and put on some stuff called "Mink Oil". It's made by KIWI and it's actually for
leather and such. It works FANTASTIC on old baseball gloves! However, it had just a marginal effect on the
weatherstripping.

Any more ideas? Keep em coming...

Kit / 86 GT / 90 Buick Reatta

http://www.shopping.com/xPC...per-Proctectant-20oz

This stuff is amazing.

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Sig by F-I-E-R-O

Silcon spray - can be bought most automotive parts stores, just spray it on till it pools, allow it to sit and asorb it all, apply more till it no longer can asorb any more and your done. A bit tougher to do on verticle pieces, but with patience it can still be done. Nothing will repair rubber that has cracked.

Hm... could have fun with this question, naw best behave

Aerospace 303
Sorry don't have a link at this time but if you do a search you"ll find it. They make the *best* products for rubber, & actually preserve the rubber unlike other products like armorall that dry it out.
HTH,
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

If your girlfriend demands that you take her out to some place expensive...................
take her to a gas station!!!!

I found this "tech tip" on the Georgia Fiero Club :



Protecting Door, Front Lid, Trunk and Especially Sunroof and T-Top Seals

Required Items:
Simple Green (has no harsh chemicals)
Small brush (an old toothbrush will work fine)
lots of rags
bucket of water
Castor Oil

Begin by cleaning the seal you want to protect with Simple Green.
Dip the brush into your bucket of water and lightly scrub the seal to get dirt out of the pores.
Wipe the seal dry and let it set for about an hour to air dry.

Pour some Castor Oil onto a clean rag and rub it into the seal.
The seal will not absorb it all right away so leaving a little 'shine' is okay.

Castor Oil will soak into the seal, keep it soft and pliant and, make it swell slightly.
If you've had a wind 'whistle' or leak, it will probably stop after this application.

I repeat this on my car about three times per year.

That's it !

Note: Castor Oil will stain your clothes, permanently. It will leave a mark on your side windows, temporarily.
You can clean your windows after about a week.

If it protects F-4 canopy seals at Mach 1.2 @ 40,000 feet, I figured it would work on a Fiero.
It's worked on my cars for the last 30 years.



Hope this help
Yan

this will sound Ghetto, but give it a shot, chances are you have some on hand...so its free to try

BRAKE FLUID>>>>>>

Dot 3,4,5? Whatever just rub it on with a cloth, can't hurt anything, it does smell though... its just hydrolic fluid right? You'd be surprised, I do this to the radiator hoses on every can i go to sell and you'd be surprised how good it looks on 10 year old rubber that sits baking underhood....

quote Originally posted by multmigs: this will sound Ghetto, but give it a shot, chances are you have some on hand...so its free to try BRAKE FLUID>>>>>> Dot 3,4,5? Whatever just rub it on with a cloth, can't hurt anything, it does smell though... its just hydrolic fluid right? You'd be surprised, I do this to the radiator hoses on every can i go to sell and you'd be surprised how good it looks on 10 year old rubber that sits baking underhood....

Have fun stripping your paint

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Sig by F-I-E-R-O

quote Originally posted by Dodgerunner: I use to use a product called Rubber-Renew and love the stuff but they don't make it anymore. I have not tried this product yet but wondered what it might do. http://tinyurl.com/2ars8n http://tinyurl.com/2ezyal I bought the sruff from a company called MCMElectronics.com

yup, we use stuff called "Rubber Rejuvenator" - but prolly same stuff. has STRONG chemical smell. but, its main use is for computer printers. the feed rollers are rubber. you use this stuff to soften it up. silicone spray is good to keep the rubber from drying out & protect it - but does little to soften it.

I use silicone dielectric grease from GM. Any type of silicone lubricant will work. I clean and lube the weatherstripping about every 4 months to keep it looking and functioning well.

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1986 Fiero GT
1997 Camaro SS #2703
2005 Honda 600RR
2001 GMC 2500HD
2004 Cavalier

quote Originally posted by multmigs: this will sound Ghetto, but give it a shot, chances are you have some on hand...so its free to try BRAKE FLUID>>>>>> Dot 3,4,5? Whatever just rub it on with a cloth, can't hurt anything, it does smell though... its just hydraulic fluid right? You'd be surprised, I do this to the radiator hoses on every can i go to sell and you'd be surprised how good it looks on 10 year old rubber that sits baking under hood....

Brake fluid and Hydraulic fluid are real different. brake fluid has no oil in it as it comes in contact with rubber in the brake system. Oil breaks down rubber, softens and swells first then falls apart.

A couple of easy / cheap things that help old rubber: Oil of Wintergreen or Castor Oil. Smear it on, let it penetrate, wipe excess off. It'll soften and plump up the rubber a bit - but it won't replace missing bits of rubber.

Well, I bought some Castor Oil and put it on my door seals and dew wipes right in the drug store parking lot. Let's see how it works.

Arn

yes let us know if it works

Today we've had rain overnite and off and on during the day. The Castor Oil is still in place and pretty gooey and sticky. I'll take some cleaner to it tomorrow.

Now the good news. The dew wipes are soft and pliable.

Arn

awesomeeee
now we need a cheap fix for those stupid felt runners on the passenger windows

A word of caution when using castor oil, it is from the ricinus-something-or-other plant. From which ricin is made, very toxic. Although Castor oil is typically well distilled it has been known to cause extreme diarreah, vomiting, and even death in people with heightened sensitivity. Be sure to use gloves when working with it, do not touch your mouth after coming in contact with it, and wash your hands after use.

I use medical grade flourinated silicone oil.
VERY expensive, (appox. $1,000.00 a quart), but I "borrow" a few ounces here and there from my lab

I "rejuvenated" the plastic cowl panel and door seal rubber on my GT with it. Amazing results.

quote Originally posted by Toddster: A word of caution when using castor oil, it is from the ricinus-something-or-other plant. From which ricin is made, very toxic. Although Castor oil is typically well distilled it has been known to cause extreme diarreah, vomiting, and even death in people with heightened sensitivity. Be sure to use gloves when working with it, do not touch your mouth after coming in contact with it, and wash your hands after use.

I thought thats what it was for. To make you sick, to induce vomiting. I know they do not want pregnant women to handle it. I was thinking of using this to restore my sunroof weather strip. I asked the lady behind the walmart counter if they had it in a bigger bottle. You should have seen the look she gave me.

Actually, Castor Oil is one of the things used by pregnant women to induce labour. It is a very old remedy and if someone has an allergy to it, that is one thing, but for common use it just ain't gonna kill 'ya. It just tastes awful.

Arn

I do mine with castor oil, and it works great, just make sure you clean it all off so in winter it dosent freeze and stick your weatherstripping to the door and glass.

That's interesting. I didn't think to do that. What I did this morning was to clean off the excess with some Nortons Universal Cleaner (really good stuff BTW) and then I sprayed with some Silicon spray. Next spring I'll check them again, or maybe when I store it for the winter.

Arn

quote Originally posted by Arns85GT: Actually, Castor Oil is one of the things used by pregnant women to induce labour. It is a very old remedy and if someone has an allergy to it, that is one thing, but for common use it just ain't gonna kill 'ya. It just tastes awful. Arn

Yes, It's an old remedy... and a bad one. The reason it induces labor is becuase it cause the body to convulse. So having a baby, diarreah, and projectile vomiting at teh saem time is not exactly a memorable experience. The use of Castor oil in this way is universally condemed by the medical community.
True, 999 times out of 1000 you won't die from it, but you'll wish you would. But it's up to you guys, bottom-up if you like. I'll be wearing rubber gloves.

Just for you to know, the Castor Oil, also named after the plant it come from, specifically the Castor bean or Mole bean. In french the name is Ricin Oil.

If you look on the web, this oil have fantastic attribute. It was used in racing engine and small airplane engine as a lubricant (better properties than petroleum oil), as hydraulic fluid, brake fluid, and to make plastic.

The brand name Castrol was supposely derivated from the Cator and Oil contraction.

Its surprising what we can learn sometime...

I use 303 on my car and it works real well. Its expensive but worth it

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Fiero Thomas
85 Fiero GT
86 Fiero GT
88 Formula T-Top C+C # 1239 of 1252, Build Digit 26,224 of 26,402
NIFE Member
Fiero News dot net

quote Originally posted by perry rhodan: Just for you to know, the Castor Oil, also named after the plant it come from, specifically the Castor bean or Mole bean. In french the name is Ricin Oil. If you look on the web, this oil have fantastic attribute. It was used in racing engine and small airplane engine as a lubricant (better properties than petroleum oil), as hydraulic fluid, brake fluid, and to make plastic. The brand name Castrol was supposely derivated from the Cator and Oil contraction. Its surprising what we can learn sometime...

One MSDS for castor oil http://www.jtbaker.com/msds/englishhtml/c1500.htm makes the stuff sound almost harmless unless ingested in large quantities. Other sheets vary in warnings. It does have some qualities that rival synthetic oils such as a boiling point of 595° F.

It is the oil component of SIL-GLYDEŽ, a grease used as a lubricant for brake calipers and rubber weather strips.

I've used Mother's Back-to-Black with good results.