I just got done rebuilding the rear calipers on my 86, and noticed both bleeder screws were broke off. I was thinking I could gravity bleed them, but I'm not so sure thats possible without having a bleeder screw. I have my car jacked up in the front now, hoping it might gravity bleed, but I really dont think its going to work. Does anyone have any suggestions for getting the air out of the calipers? I might just have to drill a new hole and tap it somewhere else on the caliper if it comes down to it. Just thought I would see if this was even possible. Thanks!

you asked the question can they be bled without removing the bleeder screws.
the answer is yes.

The real answer is, no they actually cant be... seriously...

I ended up just drilling out my bleeders, then praying that you can get them back in.. no other way around it really...

There is a repair kit made for such an occasion.

[This message has been edited by spark1 (edited 09-21-2007).]

Drilling out a frozen bleeder screw.

Many many years ago I did this on a Fiat 124 Sport Spyder. It was one of the rear calipers. The caliper was aluminum and the bleed screw was steel. The two fused together and when I turned the thing it just snapped off.

I tried easy outs and all I got were broken pieces of easy out stuck in the metal of the bleed screw.

I ended up getting the easy outs out of the remains of the bleed screw by tapping at them with a punch until they loosened up.

I then decided to drill the bleed screw out. It is extreamly important that you not drill the hole all the way through the caliper wall. I used a block of wood on my drill bit so it could only go the depth of the threads. I drilled a small 1/8 inch hole through the last of the remains of the old bleed nipple in order to have a passage into the caliper. This also allowed me to judge how far to drill the larger hole. I also beveled the bottom of the larger hole by running the drill in reverse with the drill bit I used to drill out the old bleed nipple. I found a flat end tap with the same thread size as my newer larger brass bleed screw and tapped it down as far as I could go.

It did allow me to bleed the caliper and it did seal once it was tightened down.

Now a days I would just buy a new caliper. Back then I was young and had tools but no money for a new caliper. Foreign car parts are notoriously high priced then as they are now.

I recommend getting a new caliper as you are fixing a USA car and the parts are just not that expensive. I checked and advance auto parts web site has their least expensive rear caliper listed as $78.48 with a $50.00 core.

Autozone's web site has their least expensive rear caliper listed as $48.99 with a $52.00 core.

NAPA was about the same as Advance Auto. You may have a local parts store that charges less.

dzimmerm

quote Originally posted by darkhorizon: The real answer is, no they actually cant be... seriously... I ended up just drilling out my bleeders, then praying that you can get them back in.. no other way around it really...

i disagree with you.

not recommended - doesnt fully get all the air out - but:
I have bled by loosening the line. have someone pump it up, hold it down, and loosen & retighten the banjo bolt.
this will get the air out of the lines - but, obviously - leaves a nice bubble in the caliper.
since you have them off, you can fill them first, while expanded. then when you compress to install - make sure the banjo is pointed upwards, so air is pushed out first.

anyways - just drill 'em. they're on the bench right now anyways from the rebuild. maybe an EZ-out will break 'em loose.

quote Originally posted by dzimmerm: I recommend getting a new caliper as you are fixing a USA car and the parts are just not that expensive. I checked and advance auto parts web site has their least expensive rear caliper listed as $78.48 with a $50.00 core.

I had to replace all 4 calipers on the 84 I'm working on for this reason. It wasn't something I was expecting, but at least I can be confident that there won't be any problems with the brakes - because everything is new!

------------------

3.4L S/C 87 GT www.fierosound.com
2002/2003/2004 World of Wheels Winner &
Multiple IASCA Stereo Award Winner

I ended up using a small pump to pump the caliper full of brake fluid, and it worked rather well. The only problem I'm having now is a small leak where the banjo bolt connects to the caliper. I have a feeling the copper washers are messing with me, so I'm going to look at that sometime today.

quote Originally posted by Pyrthian: since you have them off, you can fill them first, while expanded. then when you compress to install - make sure the banjo is pointed upwards, so air is pushed out first.

I used this method in a pinch and it worked fine for me. I only did it though because I needed the car immediately, if I had the time I would just repair the bleeder so it wouldn't be a problem in the future.

------------------
www.FieroDomain.com
Over 120 Fiero Links, Articles, Images, Diagnostics

"If any car is both the parade and the rain, it is the Fiero"

quote Originally posted by spark1: There is a repair kit made for such an occasion.

Where do you buy this part? Good for reference.

Arn

I saw several different bleeder screws in the Help! section at oreillys today. Didnt buy any though, because I couldnt justify paying 11 bucks for two screws. I bought some copper washers though and fixed my leak I had where the banjo connects to the caliper.

It's similar to Dorman p/n 4841481, available at most parts stores. The Checker, Shucks, Kragan site lists it for $5.89 U.S. (Canadian too as of today!)

[This message has been edited by spark1 (edited 09-22-2007).]

if you sink the whole caliper in brake fluid and loosen the flex line
and then bleed the air out and re attach the flex line (sitll immersed in the fluid)
Ive done this on a sunday evening because i needed the car for monday

------------------



87 Fiero GT 5sp with Vortec L35 4300 Turbocharged V6
Bully Stage 2 clutch
Syclone intake manifold and engine management with Moates adapter and chip burner
Air/water intercooler and Devil's Own progressive water/alky injection
50lb injectors, 3 bar map sensor, Walboro fuel pump and Jabasco Intercooler pump
LM1 wideband on custom manifolds and 3" stainless exhaust system
T31/T04B S4 turbo with a Super T61 in the box
S10 caliper conversion.
Murphy's Constant Matter will be damaged in direct proportion to its value
Murphy's Law of Thermodynamics Things get worse under pressure.
Arthur C. Clarke "Any significantly advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic"