How do you guys who have removed your fuel tank get the big hose from the filler neck and the overflow hose from the filler neck off of the tank?

Do you take them off after you have removed the front and rear straps and the support?

I've tried moving the big hose back off of the pipe from the tank with a long screwdriver, but I just can't seem to get enough pressure on it to remove it. It's even more of a problem with the one from the overflow.

Any help would be appreciated.

Take a pipe wrench or a large wrench and twist the hose back and forth (as if you're tightening and loosening a nut). This will loosen them, then take the screwdriver and pry them off.

[This message has been edited by RandomTask (edited 10-03-2007).]

Thanks

I removed the straps and support first, and pushed the tank torwards the front while removing the hoses.

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Thanks.

When I removed the fuel pressure hose from the tubing (at the tank) I used a small flat-blade screwdriver to pry it off. I had done this with the fuel return line and the fuel vapor line without damaging the hose, but with the fuel pressure hose, it split the hose for the 1st inch. Is the same size hose as the hose that goes from the pump to the fuel level sender assembly?

The big hose is long lived care for it,a bear to replace at filler!!use thick plastic to lift hose from lip as far around as you can,you can use metal tool should be rounded to prevent rip or split.place a small amount of K&Y jelly on hose the hose binds all the way off,once the ky jelly is on the lip you can twist much easier,, this hose is a witch to replace also but a small amount of lube makes life much easier.. allways replace the main fuel hose with new injector hose,,place string on hose to small fume tank and wires,,makes it easy to pull out of hole,,if any hose is harden replace even the fume hose will cause the engine to miss if damaged.. I replace all these small hoses to prevent spliting and leaks,place clamp screw head down so you can ajust or replace with out drop tank,if you retain old hose snip end off so you have more live fit(if long enough) check all tubes for rust or problem that will cause another joyful tank pull,,do not hit tank lid with metal,,use hardwood or pine to loosen,, work around circle

Thanks. The big filler hose seems to be in good shape - soft and pliable, just very difficult to get to.

JimmyS and myself just did this last saturday, Together we dropped the tank slowly and pulled the hoses as we went, installed the reverse, get the hose started push the tank, get it closer push the tank. Just not much room up there to get your hands in.
Good Luck
Gary

Thanks. I'll be doing this by myself. I am putting something under the front of the tank with a few inches clearance. I'll take the front strap loose first. Then I'll let the back of the tank down onto a support that I'll have back there. With it loose, I'll try to pull the tank forward a little bit while trying to force the 2 hoses off of the pipes.

Thanks, everyone, for the ideas.

I used a small screw driver between the hoses and fuel lines and sprayed a little WD-40 in there (work your way around),then I twisted them back and forth to loosen them up.You might be better off cutting them off and replaceing them,but the filler neck would be alot harder to do.

Oh Joy! I just went through this last Saturday. The filler hose and vent hose were a major PIA to remove from the tank. I just used a BFS (big f'n screwdriver) and pried the hoses off after about 45 minutes of trying to twist/pull them off by hand. Once they were off I put some spark plug boot grease (dielectric?) on my finger and smeared it around the inside of the hose ends. They slipped back on like butter and should be a breeze to remove if I ever need to again.

Once tank is lowered removal of hose easy with lube K&y best dialectric good vaseline ok try not to use any wd40 on rubber you will reuseif poorly equiped use blanket underwood for front,in rear fancy jack of choice with 2x4 acroos to hold tank steady you can lower front and move to frontas you lower jack and playfully remove hoses,,put wires and vapor hose out of way in hole with string to retreave do not forget to check fume, vapor hose goes to tank behind battery, when install make sure T bolts face down(wonder who install tank with bolt face up) now is time to ajust fuel gauge and lift float ,,oh joy,, remember do not hit tank cap with metal untill loose(holy spark ratman) the screws that hold the shield are cheap if they are rusty, you can lift car on one side to remove tank if not enough room

I agree with using a pipe wrench for removing the fill hose. Putting it back on i've also used motor oil generously with a rag to hold the slippery tube afterwards.

Now what about the tank cap and spark? I've done it twice and i'm not sure what uhlanstan is talking about, but sparks definitely concern me.

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-Kyle
Email: kakagiraffe@gmail.com
Aim: Littlechugger
1988 Notchback 4.9 V8 5spd Isuzu True Dual Exhaust
1993 Ford Probe 5spd

OK - I got the fuel tank out. Once I got it loose and was able to get it down and forward a little bit I was able to get my hand up in there and get the hoses off.

Now I got another problem. The two wires going to the pump plugged into a connector on the top of the pump.







It looks like the carter fuel pump available from Parts America has two studs there and comes with two washers and two nuts. Does anyone know if the pump from the Fiero Store has a connector on the top of it?

If not, does anyone know if some parts store carries this pump with the connector on the top of it?

Thanks for your continued help.

[This message has been edited by William Federle (edited 10-04-2007).]

Sounds like you got a universal pump that would have to be spliced in.

The ACDelco pump is identical to the OEM and is available at Parts America (CSK) stores.
Part number is EP240 (V6) or EP386 (L4). edit: If your not in a hurry, Rock Auto sells the ACDelco pumps for half the amount asked by Checker/Shucks/Kragen.

[This message has been edited by spark1 (edited 10-05-2007).]