Does that mean that the crank is bent or something else -or is there a chance that I can pull the pan, replace the rod and fire it up?

I have an extra rebuilt engine in the garage waiting, but if this one can be salvaged/fixed easier, I would go that route.

What's your experience?

Thanks in advance!

dude it done with lol

I'm no expert. But. For the rod to get to the oil pan. It would have to rotate down from its normal upwards position, and I think that that process might take out a few things in the meantime. Also, the pistion was prolly smacking against the crank making all kinds of a mess......

I'm not saying It couldn't be saved. But Its highly unlikely. Some pictures for the more experienced members to look at would prolly help a lot.

"It's dead, Jim."

The engine's pretty much gotta come out, anyway.
To replace the rod, the piston will have to come out. That will require removal of the head.

And that's assuming there's nothing else bent/trashed/broken. Highly unlikely at this point.
Usually, oil starvation is what causes rods to fail. There's probably other stuff that's getting ready to fail.

Sorry.

[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 10-24-2007).]

i have a good block (rotating assembly) used but i know it can be rebuilt if not used as is i am willing to sell..pm me for more details

Probably not salvagable. I would just swap in the rebuilt motor. Once the car is running again you can take the old motor apart and find out if its savable or not. Good luck either way.

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84 SE auto. - a fun original
85 SE V6 4 speed - stock, fully loaded - daily driver
85 GT 4 speed - build thread
88 Coupe 5 speed - runs and drives, needs work, patiently waiting for its turn.

Even if the engine was salvageable, you'd have to disassemble it, remove the rod and piston. Then check the bores for scoring and the crank for damage or straightness. At the vey least you'll be putting in new pistons, rings, a new rod and then balancing everything again. However in all probability the engine is toast. By the time you rebuild, you will have spent more than what the engine is worth. Complete used 2.8L's can often be found in great shape for $300 or less. IMO replacing is the fastest fix and the best bet.

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87GT 3.4 Turbo- 0-60 5.2 seconds
2006 3800SC Series III swap in progress
Engine Controls, PCM goodies,
re-programming & odd electronics stuff
" I'M ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

Can it be fixed I laughed louder than the post where the poster said he would sacrifice a goat. when a rod comes loose that engine block is finished ,even if it seems O.K... false economy,, you can use the parts but the crank and block should not be used again,, the crank and block have experienced an unusual event.. when a rod breaks ,all the others are suspect,especially if older than 10 years or over 100,000 miles this was so good i am going to rate you I loved your rod thrown topic I have been smiling for 5 minutes thank you

I just want to see a pic of the thing.

Glad I can entertain! I appreciate the help, you guys.

I have pics of the outside of the oil pan to post soon. I'll cover removal of an auto since I can't find where anyone shows the easiest way to disconnect all the cables on top. I already have the coolant lines and a few others off already.

This will be my second solo engine drop - and my first time putting it all back in. More to come.

Dont remove the wires from the engine. Pull the harness from to computer and lay it on top of the engine.

You cant throw a rod without playing havic with the crank. It's likely trash now and the block may have grit throughout its' oil passages. Slavage the heads and whatever. Is that same engine you had that never-ending overheating problem with? If it is, maybe you solved that problem now.

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I bought a v6 with a thrown rod, at first I thought it was just an oil pan hole, turns out it busted a hole through the block right where the oil dipstick tube goes in, hard to see until you pull the engine.

THANK YOU THANK YOU This is my favorite post in reading pennocks for a year..do not use any part that had contact with the crankshaft, this includes timing chain,pistons,oil pump, I would not reuse the cam shaft ,if it is performance cam you could take chance.. I am 65 and this is based on watching others reuse suspect parts some times O K sometimes tragedy.. a 20 year old car that has not had a thorough rebuild is not a good canidate for hard driving.. this engine had a major shock it is like you had a drop you to the ground heart attack,,if this engine has a history of overheating,I would not use head unless surface is perfectly flat! salvage nuts bolts valves,manifolds,time chain cover,, if you have new water pump it is O K ..the block is now ready for service as part of a jap car, will add some class to it