Well of course you'll need to fabricate one of my patented Northstar delux oil fill kits as well :

Who supplies the ECU you're using? Does CHRF set those up also?

lookin' good

Russ

Just fill through the front valve cover with a 50 cent funnel....... No ingenuity needed.

[This message has been edited by ryan.hess (edited 11-06-2005).]

quote Originally posted by ryan.hess: Just fill through the front valve cover with a 50 cent funnel....... No ingenuity needed.

Pfffttt.... ya right. If you have the patience to get 7 qt of oil down the pvc hole (with it's further restricted baffle inside the cover) you have my admiration. If you're not carfull to fill very slowly, the baffle inside will back up the oil and overflow all over the engine (btdt). I'll have all 7 qt in mine wile your's uncapping qt #2 and my engine will be clean when finished.

[This message has been edited by Russ544 (edited 11-06-2005).]

That oil funnel is slick Russ, I will have to make one just like it. The ecu is from chrfab, its the computer they recomend to run a 2000+ N*, made by the same guy that made the Holley Commander.

Exhaust is done, and I'm very satisfied how it turned out.

So, full mandrel bent dual 2.5" exhaust, here are some pictures.

It does look high in the engine bay, but I'm not worried about it. Its 10lbs, won't affect the center of gravity much.

Here is a better look at the rear exhaust, I think it looks pretty clean and should flow nicely.

I can't weld, so I had my buddy from work weld everything.

This is a view of just the front exhaust in place.

Sorry, no shots of it fully put together, got pretty busy and was in a hurry to get the car back to my place. I will now be taking the whole thing apart and doing a bunch of painting and such.

You do some good work!

------------------
88 Coupe: Modded 4.9L V8 5 speed
86 GT: Stock 4 speed
86 SE: 3.4 DOHC 4 speed
http://www.geocities.com/fast88fiero

quote Originally posted by Russ544: Well of course you'll need to fabricate one of my patented Northstar delux oil fill kits as well : Who supplies the ECU you're using? Does CHRF set those up also? lookin' good Russ

..................................................

quote Originally posted by ryan.hess: Just fill through the front valve cover with a 50 cent funnel....... No ingenuity needed.

...............................................

I am sure that there is a better way, but this $2.50 solution does not need a funnel

[This message has been edited by cptsnoopy (edited 11-06-2005).]

quote Originally posted by Russ544: Pfffttt.... ya right. If you have the patience to get 7 qt of oil down the pvc hole (with it's further restricted baffle inside the cover) you have my admiration. If you're not carfull to fill very slowly, the baffle inside will back up the oil and overflow all over the engine (btdt). I'll have all 7 qt in mine wile your's uncapping qt #2 and my engine will be clean when finished.

Never had a problem with it........ maybe you should switch to synthetic?

Swap the valve covers around ? My guess is no.

I like this idea way better then the oil fill

Take a sheet of metal put it on a workbench and clip the ground to the metal, Makes welding a breeze. I had to do that same thing( welding on the ground) when I welded up kento's exhaust.... It was a Pita.

A word of advise about the cutout trunk, Make sure you heatshield the back area. I used a fiero fire walls heat shield and made a minor cut it fit like a charm. It will save your bumper from the exhaust heat. I will snap a pic of my setup. For the cutout trunk with the exhaust setups.

Anyway keep up the progress crazyone. I can't wait to see this beast hit the road.

[This message has been edited by 86fieroEarl (edited 11-07-2005).]

I like the fill plug in the rear cover that Cptsnoopy built better than my oil fill also....... unfortunatly I can't seem to find my rear valve cover now that everything else is in there

I see you have the plastic fuel rail. You'll want to get that swapped out under the recall ASAP. Don't need any more to burn

Hey thats right! I do have a plastic fuel rail.. What years are covered by the recall?

95-97

I want to say they corrected the problem in 98 and later, but I really don't think so. The stainless rail will probably only work up to 99 anyways, but maybe you can bring yours down to compare?

They're $150 to purchase if you're not covered by the recall

...

[This message has been edited by crzyone (edited 11-19-2005).]

Hey it's looking great! You'll have to come down to Calgary sometime when it's done and show it off to our club.

Nolan

Definitly. It'll be done for spring for sure. I'd like to have it all tuned and ready to go when the snow melts. I havn't had my car for 2 summers now due to the 3.4swap and now the N* swap. On the upside, I'm keeping the miles off the car

I'm sure some of you remember Donk316 from before he was banned. We moved his Indy into my garage to do a 3.4dohc turbo install. Should be a fun project. Over the winter both of our cars will have completed engine swaps.

SPEC is sending me a new clutch with a proper center hub, can't really progress much until I get that. I was going to completely rewire the chrfab wiring harness, but I'll just end up moving some wires to make the computer more accessable. Mainly the altenator wire that keeps the computer conections so close to the motor. Also need to modify the fiero's wiring harness for the usual stuff such as starter and guages.

This is what my clutch looks like

This is what a proper clutch should look like (Thanks Aaron for the pic)

quote Originally posted by crzyone: A question for you guys, how many liters of oil does a N* take? I bought 5L of some cheaper oil to run through it fir the first 1k or so before I switch to synthetic. I'm thinking 5L might not be enough. The oil pan on this thing is huge...

Just check the dipstick and see where she is, It depends on if your running a oil cooler or not tho. 5L might be a half of quart to low, If you have a haynes manuel it will tell you the correct amount, The only problem is the N star caddy's might of used a oil cooler, If they did and your not using one, then yours will take a half of quart less.

The only sure way is to keep checking the dipstick when your filling it up. Someone else might be able to chime in with the exact needed amount.

quote Originally posted by crzyone: A question for you guys, how many liters of oil does a N* take? I bought 5L of some cheaper oil to run through it fir the first 1k or so before I switch to synthetic. I'm thinking 5L might not be enough. The oil pan on this thing is huge...

I think it is 7 quarts. Yeah, it's big.

Earl, northstars didn't come with oil coolers, atleast the 2000+ STS didn't. I will end up putting in the whole 5L to start with, its not going to starve for oil anyways.

The hub on my clutch disc looks like it sticks out fairly far, better safe than sorry. Spec was good about sending out another disc, should be here sometime this week I hope. Aaron's clutch disc is much different and he is also running a Getrag. When I ordered the clutch I made sure I ordered one for an 88GT, since I'm using a getrag and neutral balance flywheel. Aaron has an 88GT, so I assume the clutch discs should look the same.

Hopefully Spec stops sending out clutches with the hub out on the pressure plate side. Seeing what it can do to the imput shaft got me worried enough to call up spec.

Depending on how hard I find myself running the car, I might install an oil cooler. For normal driving, not having one should be perfectly fine. I've heard the N* has better fuel mileage than the 2.8 which means it generates less heat through burning fuel. Its when you step on the go pedal that it burns alot of fuel and can heat up the coolant and oil in a hurry. It would be nice to install a 3.4dohc oil cooler on the n*, but the way the oil filter is situated its not possible. Would put the oil filter well below the cradle.

[This message has been edited by crzyone (edited 11-28-2005).]

an oil cooler isn't really necesary if you run synthetic. Even if you don't, you won't need one unless you're planning on doing some towing... Which, I don't know... canadians have done odder things...

I don't believe one is necessary for every day driving, but might be a wise decision if on an auto x track where the load on the engine is much higher.

And I believe you meant to say Otter (Canadian Joke)

Nice Indy!

A oil cooler never hurts to have, And always a good thing. The only time there bad is if you route it stupidly, And when it comes to routing a oil cooler stupidly, Im number 1 Mine was routed so retarded that it actually was making contact with the crossover.

Some ppl route them under the engine vent, In my opinion it does no good there. Where rockcrawl mounts his is one of the ideal places to mount a oil cooler.

Well, its been awhile since I've updated so here I go.

I got sidetracked while doing the swap by installing my lowering springs, new shocks and struts, full poly, and 12" corvette brakes.

Here is a shot at the front control arms with the new hardware installed. I will pretty up the control arms when the car is on the road and I can take it to a car wash.

I am wiring the fiero to the N*. The ecu I have comes with its own engine wiring harness so all I need to do is run wires for things such as the fuel pump, vss, starter and all that small stuff.

New struts with lowering springs

And finally a picture of my 12" rotors installed. Just got in my adapters so I can finish up my brake swap.

I'll update this again as I finish up some stuff.

Well, Mr Crzyone, you deserve every Fiero fan's respect.
I'm a 53 year ol' fart. I now own my 3rd Fiero ( bought a brand new basic '84 MR4, drove it daily for 11 years, totalled it at 198,000 Km, replaced it with an '84 SE for 2 years and finally found a clean Lo-Km '88 GT, 5 speed and all). And I tought I was about the only Fiero nut around 'till I finally got on the web (remember I'm a 53 year ol' fart and NOT a natural with computers) and found all you fans out there. Plus the incredible array of parts and services available. Been surfing a lot lately, mainly on Fiero subjects, and I am a new member to this chat site. I must admit my admiration to you and all you boys-and-girls who find the courage to undertake a drivetrain swap. Wow! I was kind of mingling about finding a clean 4cyl '88 Coupe, gutt it completely and install a lighter weigh alum Nissan VQ drivetrain from a totalled '04 or '06 Maxima with paddle shift tranny and it's electronic controls and gizzmos. Keep it as stock as possible on the outside ( yeah, stealthy and able to humiliate all those Big Dollars Euro or Japanese wheels) BUT...

After reading all you went through ( and mucho $$$$$) with your N* swap, I'm kind of...hesitant. I live in Montréal, Québec and so a bit far from your place but I sure would like to see, HEAR and admire your V8 GT !!

Keep on the great work and good luck. Please be carefull with your... I'm sure, VERY fast car and watch for the cops!!

marcryvon

Yeah, the subject of power steering is a perennial favorite on the board. You'll see it pop up in random threads every so often, where it is usually followed by a response like the one I'm typing now. As I recall, there is a guy named Toddster who has gotten ahold of one of these systems but hasn't swapped them in yet. If you want power steering and a quicker ratio, search for Rickady88GT. He has retrofitted an F-body rack into his 88.

Now back to our regularly scheduled programming...

[This message has been edited by GonsaiPK (edited 02-04-2006).]

quote Originally posted by marcryvon: Well, Mr Crzyone, you deserve every Fiero fan's respect.

Thanks for the kind words. I do have alot of money into my northstar swap, but I could have done it much much cheaper. If you were ever interested in doing a N* swap, pick an early 90s motor. You can then have Will modify the stock wiring harness and use a GM computer to run the motor. Then its just like any other swap with figuring out the motor mounts, cooling, fuel ect. If you ever decide to swap, there are plenty of members here to help you out.

Levi

Rodney Dickman had one of the 88 power steering units on display at the Osage beach show last summer. Joe

quote Originally posted by ryan.hess: Just fill through the front valve cover with a 50 cent funnel....... No ingenuity needed.

I was reading through the thread, and I can't believe what I said here. I was talking about the REAR valve cover. I have a breather filter there I just pop off, and insert a funnel.

Sorry, random thought for the day.

With the oil fill why don't you guys just do what I did with the 3.4 DOHC: cut a hole and weld (aluminum) or JB weld (if your cover is magnesium) in an oil cap bung. It looks factory because it uses threaded GM oil fill caps with O-ring seals.
You could even put yours on the rear cover since you don't have an intake in the way..


I got the bung from Summit or Jegs; can't remember which..
Its made by B&B. Moroso also makes one that comes with a cap.. there's a Jeg's brand oil fill cap too that comes with a cap. Mine is designed to just use GM oil fill caps (I used one from a 3100 I think; the 3.4 DOHC cap didnt fit).

[This message has been edited by Steven Snyder (edited 02-05-2006).]

I just don't see adding oil as a big deal. Once or twice a summer, might as well use a funnel and use the stock oil fill. Good idea though.

Bought my intake hardware today. 4" mandrel bent pipe. With a small amount of help it fits on the end of my huge K&N filter. This is not how it will look tomorrow when I modify it. I will be putting the filter above the front crossmember in front of the trani. Lots of cool air down there.

The 2000+ N*s TB has an outside diameter of 4", but the blade its self is only 3.5"

I was going to route the filter in the fender, but its not possible with this size of pipe. The hole is 4.5" but the gas filler tube is in the way. Not a big deal.

Will get pictures tomorrow of the intake installed.

quote Originally posted by crzyone: Bought my intake hardware today. 4" mandrel bent pipe. With a small amount of help it fits on the end of my huge K&N filter. This is not how it will look tomorrow when I modify it. I will be putting the filter above the front crossmember in front of the trani. Lots of cool air down there.

Damn dude... huge.

You might want to rethink that location though... One of the problems (as the original fiero designers found out) is that if you hit a puddle, you can have a substantial amount of water enter your intake duct. Fast water ingestion = hydrolock, one of the reasons for putting the water separator in the original "air scoop" of the fiero. And think about how high up that is compared to where you're planning on putting your intake.....

Something to consider.....

Ahead of ya, thinking of making a sheet aluminum splash protector between the filter and tire. Forgot to mention that.